2006 Outback 3.0R 180kw VDC project

so new car , new project m new plans for it , and gathering new info what could be done witt it and choosing what fits me

what i bought
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how it looked in my yard next day
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changing inside and some outside bulbs to led's
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examples for myself how lift would look with my rims and how bumper cut would look
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so normal steps for me do lift at least as much as in that pic, and then maybe cut bumper
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car how its sits now, how +5cm would look and then +7cm wheel is in the air
would need bigger tires for better look there.
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checked front arches for rust and how it looks, and put some bitumen spray over there , and then put back that plastic cover back
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front grill plasti dipped to black
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how it looks in dark with some lights
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If its 4 cyl i would put UEL headers for that rumble sound. I remember when i made mine i used full steel pipe not exhaust pipe. Lol just used what i had but sound was so cool.
 
6cm lift in front 7cm in rear, with 1cm extra subframe drop in front and 1.5cm subframe drop in rear.. all on oem bolts , no need longer ones still ... front really have long bolts there it goes like 3cm into frame so if you put extra 1cm or even more subframe spacer that bolt still have a lot holding power there , enough really
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so thats how it looks. now suspension its just on 5cm lift but all car is higher.
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Now had some new light having code c0023 as before but now with brake light comes on dashboard... And before i had codes c0023 c0027 and c0045 . And now just c0023. So 8y evolved lol . No rly my brakes all fine fluid partly changed. Pads are ok nothing stuck rly and still im having that thing about speed sensor or front left abs sensor...that i changed so its not that
 
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seems like those tinted windows are not so tinted after all... they kinda still visiable from outside.. not perfect if you sleep inside and using light even.
height its really enough even this much ... who even need more rly ... just those braking abs stuff problems now that i need to solve there
gearbox did had problems last year now its maybe have diff problems there too but not same anymore... but that speed sensor error kinda messes that gearbox there. it not gives power there and it just drops gears too low so much as if it didint had power.. but thats was problem last year with it as well even worse problem with some solenoid ... now its about ABS more but then why gearbox would be affected from ABS ... thats weird ..who knows ... it doesnt drive as it should again ... shame
 
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Is this one of the models where the VSS is independent of the gearbox? I’m wondering if the abs issue is related to the VSS and thus messing with speed readings to the TCU, so gear choices are messed up.
Just a thought anyway.

Your outback is looking awesome!

Cheers

Bennie
 
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One day 7cm lifted cruiser...
Then after 2 days
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Yes no more silent tires or full bumper...
Just errors keeps messingy ride
 
Is this one of the models where the VSS is independent of the gearbox? I’m wondering if the abs issue is related to the VSS and thus messing with speed readings to the TCU, so gear choices are messed up.
Just a thought anyway.

Your outback is looking awesome!

Cheers

Bennie
I thought vss is in gearbox there so then where else is it ? Ir someone knows... Becausei allready changed 1 abs sensors there and changed wheel bearing now 5 times i guess..
I could be wheel bearing changing specist easily...lol.
Now dashboard error gives me C0023 and C0029 errors. And that C0029 just means that one of wheels doesnt reads same speed as others or smt... I mean cmon ... Im out of ideas..so i just drive it without TC without cruise and without ABS because its just turns those off...yh thanks...
Good old days i guess... When your feet hurts and no abs means you must think ahead a lot...
 
in my travels specially with sleeping in car i allways thought i wish i had that roof box thingy so i could put all my light stuff there and then sleep in trunk just more easily .. or for night i could put maybe all my stuff in there even and i wouldnt need to just put all that inside car.. still all was possible but i was allways wondering ... untill today when i bought damn thing for like 50 euros... just found localy .. so its where i live .. and guy was actually guy from my work even ... so yh
but it was evening and then it got rain too .. still i made myself those roof rack holders myself... because why not .. just buy 1 peace aluminum tube 30x30 thickness was 2mm so i thought its fine so it was 2m long so i just cut it in half and here you go .. well then it was long time to measure it and drill holes in right places .. because that roof is not like even so depends where you put those tubes you need to calculate it very precise because it will be diff distance , anyway there it is
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and yes it very large well its like taking whole roof its like 220cm on 80cm so it like big. still i could just put it on my roof rack bottom part but then i would double in wieght there so why do that .. i just made those separate for that thing only ... and inside is so much space that you could made there like sleeping place or smt .. i mean that pretty wide for even 2 lovers to sleep ... so yh its large and good... i thought about put some more aluminum maybe inside on floor or on sides so maybe i could even put hi lift jack inside it ... well maybe that was idea... but i have that in my head ...
problem is that it opens from rear ... only .. so now car is not on much lift if it would be on like 7cm lift with larger tires i couldnt even reach it ..to open or close lol .. still its cool ..
no its on small winter tires and just about 3cm lift in front and 5cm in rear ... front is just on SH forester struts nothing else
so that aluminum tube costed me like 11 euros .. and then some more steel and bolts... sure i could find like universal roof bars for maybe 45 euros . but i just wanted to make it .. and see how it would look and perform

sadly car still has those speed sensor errors and it turns off my ABS and traction control and cruise ... yh sadly ...
ohh and its doing something by gearbox but then who knows maybe main ecu tells to do that to gearbox .. like it doesnt give me all power sometimes if i want to like go faster quick it doesnt let me raise revs ... its kinda locks those revs or smt
well i had gearbox problems before .. if someone remember when it drove car like on limp mode ...
so now something else happens ... its weird
compare to this my 2001 2.5 obk was like dream in all engine and electronic stuff ... nothing was wrong there .. but it was too much rust just that
i dont remember iv done anything on engine or lpg there .. it was just running ... like bullet proof stuff.. but that body was rusted and then it even broke ... so yh ...
this car doesnt heats half car... AC is empty because leaks somewhere... LPG is problem... abs sensor or smt like that problem ... i mean cmon ...
since i bought car it never worked like 100% never not one day ..omg
some money could solve all that im sure ... just give it to someone and pay ... but i just not that simple ... i even asked in local facebook channel that someone pls find my problem with abs and stuff .. and noone said nothing to that .. they just said find good electrician ..
yh find good one .. see but i dont need quessing games... i dont need all that well change this part then see and then change this part... i can change parts myself fine .. i dont need to pay money to someone who will tell me to change parts .. like umm change bearing , change abs sensor change cv axle change speed sensor .. that i can myself just fine ... just find source of problem ... and thats im having hard time to find
 
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Scalman, when your car throws a code, that's not all that happens. The ECU switches into limp mode, which sets static ignition timing, amongst a whole lot of other things. There's a list somewhere. Your fuel economy will drop to awful, and performance will generally be poor.

It's not just disabling the cruise control and ABS and whatever. Those lights just tell you that you are in limp mode.
 
I had gearbox problems last year it was about one solenoid at least error said that... But then this year its not same its speed stuff error. I wonder if its just gearbox doing something there again.. and why this year gearbox not having that error anymore...yh who knows rly...
And last year limp mode felt so bad so car couldnt even drive allmost.
This time that mode its just limits revs or smt it has all power though... So its not like limp mode its just gets some weird info there and dont know what to do with it
Now for couple days it drives just fine...even if it gives me abs light . I delete it and after i can drive after hundreds kms like normal again no lights at all..cruise working and such...so yh go figure. I know how limp mode feels i had that last winter.. its not like that now... Now sometimes its like it waits until switch gear or smt ... Well if it sees different speeds on wheels its confused i guess...
Last time i drove 300km without any codes just yesterday...all power gears ok revs good...

Comsumption was showing like 11l average which is very good. And thats more have to do because i changed on lpg injector..
And when i delete errors and dash no longer lights up those dash error codes are still there those 23 and 29 codes. But i can drive like that sometimes for long time sometimes shorter... Again it varies
And i can feel when its not working ok very good i know how it drives very well and it feels...

Then some new stuff for car front bumper in black... I plasti dipped it so i could just peel that off easy... Just to see how it looks...
Its kinda good. I could make that roof box black too then ..

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painted roof box in matte black color.. and thought about could i make mounts for hi lift there ... and then i tested how that extra weight would affect my mpg , drove couple hundred kms since then on low and high speeds and even on very high speeds to just see how much noise coming from wind from it .. and yes wind noise is there but not to much as that steel roof rack , and all keeps there tight and secure ...
and mpg was not affected if its empty box or full rly didint saw any difference. so if i would need sleep in car some time again.. now i can keep my trunk empty for bed and keep all stuff on roof just simple as that ...
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Put 5cm subframe spacers in rear just for test. Then removed as i dont have all subframe spacers and longer bolts yet. And you cant drive with just rear subframe drop as then that driveshaft is not happy on that angle. Though i thought ill try put spacer on that drivechaft bearing but even with 15mm spacer there had vibrations. Then tried 30mm spacer... And not sure could i use that if i dont drop front and gearbox... Not sure if anyone did that and tried would that driveshft be ok and live if i not drop front for now...
And then driveshaft touched exhaust on one place...so just removed all ...still thinking about it could it be used as just rear subframe dropped and not front
 
there must be a way if i want to make that driveshaft on level so it would be fine if i drop rear 5cm down but i left gearbox in same height as oem, yes rear diff goes down by 5cm so then i need to make it no good level for that driveshaft to turn... it wasnt enough with 15mm spacer ... but with 30mm spacer i had then some other issues for driveshaft touching exhaust ... yes its easy to just do 4'' lift or 10cm lift option when you just put spacers on everything . thats i understand ... but what if you dont .. same as .. i drive now in rear on 7cm spacers just on struts... those axles in rear they are too much pressed inside diff ..its fine when just driving ... as car kinda pushed down some. but if i would make wheels like go up and down and maybe hanging in air .. that rear diff would have really bad time there... and i did it once i change rear diff once ... why ? because my 7cm lift in rear destroyed rear diff...
 
so its winter ..not yet by calendar but its snow allready there... and you know exactly why you have traction control in winter ... i mean.. not only VDC models have more rear bias drive like 55/45 but then VDC kick in and you know just going forward.. not spinning wheels for no reason .. i mean .. its still gives you plentu silding.. but then its catching you and like guide you forward.. thats what i was testing now in snowy city roads at late eve..when its allmost no cars on road.. because nobody wants to drive in there i mean lol ...
thats when i came in .. or out ..and just test it ... i think tires are poop allready though they are winter ones.. but like from year 2018 ... but still that VDC just works ... it just works ... and its more fun still .. even when its works ... and if you turn it off its even better ...couse you still have that same split more to rear ... but then you have all that torque to wheels... tho on those 3rd gen models VDc just works ok so you dont even need to turn it off.. and you have rear LSD too .. so i mean .. its like ... best ..couse rear LSD in snow its just ... if its works it makes yor car slide so much more cool there ...
i mean you have 55/45 split to rear and LSD in rear on snow ... when it works .. and it does work you can really feel that ...
 
Another thing i was curious... Couldnt find more pics from obk 4" lift kit though . But from this one its 5cm spacers for rear and front subframe ..so ok that gone 5cm lower... Then for gearbox those spacers are smaller? I mean why everything not dropped same ? So ok if gearbox dropps just 4cm or 3cm not sure from pic and then driveshaft bearing its even less? Or pic is not show there actual thing because i dont get it let visualise rear diff dropped 5cm lower.. ok so rear diff dropped. Why then driveshaft is not dropped same to be on same line? And gearbox why that smaller too.. ??
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Even if those gearbox spacers are 4x4 ok so they 4cm because they look like square ok still why those small driveshaft spacers are smaller and not same 4cm ? I mean that driveshaft gonna go to rear diff and rear diff is dropped 5cm... So ita gonna be some angle there for those vibrations
 
Is the driveshaft at an angle before the drop? Maybe less drop makes it straight?
 
No i mean oem its straight at least it looks like. I talked to some ppl they just put 1cm smaller spacers on gearbox and driveshaft. So its like if subframe 5cm plus then 4cm on those. Well good that i can just see for myself and try. Allready have all longer bolts. So now will make those spacers. And then need larger wheels for that 4" lift . Its shame those tires now cost so much more then couple yrs before. Would like to try those new nokian outpost AT tires. They not heavy and they very soft more like winter on softness. That would be nice to see how that works and feels against how those super heavy ko2's felt.
 
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