2006 Outback 3.0R 180kw VDC project

so new car , new project m new plans for it , and gathering new info what could be done witt it and choosing what fits me

what i bought
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how it looked in my yard next day
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changing inside and some outside bulbs to led's
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examples for myself how lift would look with my rims and how bumper cut would look
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so normal steps for me do lift at least as much as in that pic, and then maybe cut bumper
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car how its sits now, how +5cm would look and then +7cm wheel is in the air
would need bigger tires for better look there.
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checked front arches for rust and how it looks, and put some bitumen spray over there , and then put back that plastic cover back
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front grill plasti dipped to black
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how it looks in dark with some lights
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its time to make 12v sockets for rear and maybe some phone holders, from what i could find in my phone holders collection that i dont use anymore.
redone rear socket, found better space , connected from existing 12v socket that is arm rest box. but nothing is for rear though...
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Its time to go back...back to muds... And 7cm lift... Though little louder. But much softer ride trough bad roads and speed bumps. That more sidewall really feels a lot.
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Though tis large compromise with those chunky heavy mud tires. You loose everything you just gain mud grip and well most off road grips . But then if you not going there... Its just too much at lost. Ko2 where not that bad . They where my dailys all seasons. So its like do i need them.. yes they look cool . Everyone looks at car where i go lol but like i go shoping now and larger distances on good roads so they just waste. And they loud
 
I've certainly noticed a difference in sound since I switched the Forester from BFG AT to Yokohana GO15 and a huge difference in sound since I switched the Mitsubishi ute from BFG MT to Yokohama GO16!
 
And back to 12l per 100km fuel usage.
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Still too much lift for those wheels. Front 6cm might drop to 4cm and rear is 6-7ish cm that might drop to 5cm.
As i dont have tires now for all needs as at . Winters will do for now i guess.
Car dropped by 5cm just with those wheels alone.
Or maybe this look will grow on me and i will leave it at that
 
Yes some. Now speedo shows +8km/h speed then actual. So i need to adjust. Plus side i wont drive too fast
 
Don’t forget to adjust your distance travelled before calculating your fuel usage!

I reckon your outback looks mean on those bigger tyres!

Cheers

Bennie
 
Sure its mean and angry and cool looking..with lot lift. and drinks a lot fuel and its loud even on 10km/h speed.
Ko2 would be great looking there not so bad on fuel maybe not too loud too
For long distances tho you need silent ride and good mpg. Then again driving alone is one thing you can put music loud but with full car its not so nice to listen tire hum
 
And i think i killed stearing pump could be just bad timing but after i put those large tires now. But its not like 9n car before that its was leaking now wheel turns just hard its like moment its easy then other moment its hard as like it wouldnt be working. So yh my luck..
 
My sister’s stock Gen3 Liberty (Legacy) RX is doing the same thing from what I’ve been told. It’s got 400,000km or more on the clock, I can’t remember exactly, but it’s up there!

If it’s the original pump or rack, it’s not surprising they fail at some point! I don’t see how larger tyres kill PS systems unless you’re abusing them offroad - eg: forcing the PS to turn a wheel into a wall/vertical incline.

I hope you find the issue and it’s an easy/cheap fix. Have you checked your PS fluid level as a starting point?

Cheers

Bennie
 
Fluid doesnt leak. Its on same level. I thought it could be O ring if that getting air or smt... Will check that later.
 
If i lift all front so both front wheels are in air it should be easy to turn them with just hands turning tire itself yes? Even when engine is off? Because mine turns hard.. and then its not getting any easier when engine on thats very surprising.. its kinda stucks when you trying to turn then with hands. So it might be rack then too. Hmm i noticed that too much lift works hard on those links then just going on too much angle . But i didint do any off road now just drove on roads even with those large muds
I destroyd rack on my 2001 obk with lift so yh .. but that was just leaking.. so not sure.. what happened here
 
Turning wheels by hand with them in the air is meant to be hard - you’re trying to turn a steering wheel AND push fluid around a system in reverse of how it’s meant to operate - eg the steering input shaft tells the fluid where to go and do it’s work under pressure, not the rack turning to push fluid where it finds the path of least resistance.

It’s kind of like using a front end loader to lift the bucket with a load in it. The lever used by the operator makes the work easy for the operator. But if you got out to try and manually do it you’ll find it very difficult (actually impossible) to lift the same bucket, empty and engine off, even if the lever was pulled in the correct direction for the action you’re trying to move the bucket in. Not only do you need to overcome the weight of the bucket but also the restriction of moving all the fluid from the hydraulic ram too. Same deal with trying to manually turn the front wheels as you describe!

I hope this helps out.

Cheers

Bennie
 
Its still weird feeling in that steering though. I lowered lift and it became lighter. Still at some points its so hard to turn to side and sometimes its light again.
 
I’m guessing easier when moving, harder when stationary. That could possibly be the issue - situation of use could change the dynamics of the PS system user feel to it. I hope that make sense! I’m trying to punch this out quickly between things at my end!

Cheers

Bennie
 
No all while moving wheel can be easy in middle but then trying to turn its like resisting but then at some point it like let go short moment being light and then can become hard again. I mean i dont mind some harder wheel. And i drive car still no probs. Just its not same as it was. Still can turn wheels while parking with one hand. But its something there like small jurkings like its doing something but not quite right
And it changed in one day thats why i know something happened . Just not sure rack or pump
 
As now i need to drive more large distances. Looking for better fuel usage solutions. Put back large winters. Now speed will be correct.
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would there be nice if we could have larger screen in car for rear passengers and even for front ones.. and would it be nice to use something that most of us have anyway ... like laptop.. so where to put it then ? well ..i mean damn where was i before ..and what about screen flip.. well it was there allways ... lol . sure you cant use keyboard now but you can use external BT keyboard and mouse is no prob . and you can slide it more to front or more to rear as you wish... i mean its all build there allready lol .
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on bad side.. i have C0023 , c0027 and c0045 codes for ABS/VDC . so 2 of them are driver side ABS sensors.. ok so if they bad .. why sometime i can drive car without dash lights for week and then other day it appear.. if its short circuit then it should be allways on .. but ill try to change those ABS sensors then .. for 45 code it shows ABS brain problem .. but maybe its because those 2 ABS sensors... maybe .. for now ill just drive as it is .. sometimes it comes up then after deleting it goes off or comes back again .. it depends.. seems like it doesnt like warmer weather as well .. in colder weather it works better .. thats curious too .. why temp matters.
 
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So i put more error codes for abs .. but why they wont clear after. I mean i tried connect left side abs sensor on right side to see if its bring new code and it did.. ok so then i got new code for right side. But when i connected back good sensor.. and started car error code for right side still on ... ? Ftw? And freessm cant delete those..must be some other trick to delete codes there
 
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