2006 Outback 3.0R 180kw VDC project

so new car , new project m new plans for it , and gathering new info what could be done witt it and choosing what fits me

what i bought

how it looked in my yard next day

changing inside and some outside bulbs to led's

examples for myself how lift would look with my rims and how bumper cut would look

so normal steps for me do lift at least as much as in that pic, and then maybe cut bumper

car how its sits now, how +5cm would look and then +7cm wheel is in the air
would need bigger tires for better look there.

checked front arches for rust and how it looks, and put some bitumen spray over there , and then put back that plastic cover back

front grill plasti dipped to black

how it looks in dark with some lights

 

[El_Freddo]

Yeah wow, that’s a different LSD setup. The ones I’ve seen look more like this:

The difference I can see between the open and LSD units you posted above is the difference on the side gears, they look to have a smooth dish like surface cast into the side gear. The open diff doesn’t have this. I’d guess that it’s a viscious LSD, which would be about right for that era.

I just didn’t think it looked like that!

Some further image stalking and borrowing found this:



So definitely viscous LSD, or VLSD - you can make out the same dish like shape built into the side gears in the vlsd in the above pic.

At least the wheel rotation test was a good indicator for further investigation.

Cheers

Bennie

 

[scalman]

so i thought with lift how those poluretan bushing in front will feel there as even to put strut on i did needed to push that control arm with my hand or leg down, so i thought maybe it will be on much stress there or anything but not after day all setlled down and with 5cm lift in front those bushing sits just right . so thats good, mean it can be used in front in that place

then fixed that alignment at least to pretty accurate numbers. as rear wheel was not ok i could see it just to look at it , so that fixed

so now 5cm lift in front and same 7cm in rear. it looks good , but i like how those wheels looked in arches with 7cm more . will see maybe i will figure out later some type of some extra spacers there. i have some thought about that just need to try and see.

 

[Kevin]

I really like your wheel alignment equipment!

"a string and a chair" or maybe it really is " a string and a prayer"

 

[Veganpotter]

@Kevin out of everything, prayer is really most useful for wheel alignments

 

[Ben Up North]

String alignment is pretty tried and true I thought.

 

[Ratbag]

@Ben Up North It depends ...

Which string theory?

Or, alternatively

How long is your piece of string?

 

[Kevin]

How long is your piece of string?

Easy - twice the distance as it is from one end to the middle!

 

[scalman]

Well at least for alignnent to straight line is not that hard with rope and 2 chairs so your wheels would be on one line and front wheels would drive straight when you release wheel while drive, and wheel not shaking car not going to one side.
Then is that camber thats another thing but we cant do much for that in rear just front. I do my front camber myself as well so tires would not get eaten on one side. As for rear wheel they pretty much ok there. Not perfect but they fine. And even if i would pay money in station they wouldnt do nothing in rear as there are no bolts to change that there . So why pay them at all.

 

[scalman]

I wonder could it be pure fuel system fault for car laging to accelerate at most times, had some thought if drive on petrol gives cyl 2 and sometimes 4 missfire buy drive on lpg sometimes deletes those errors at least check engine goes away and then lpg sometimes brings cyl 5,3 missfires so not same as on petrol. So at least that could be reason that its fuel injection fault both petrol and lpg has own injectors and i know my couple lpg injectors are not good.
Could it be fuel pump. One time i was removing it to see what inside tank and maybe clean filter. What if that rubber sealant that is on top leaks some air like its not proper sealed or smt.
Just trying to figure out something in my head as theory, but then remembering that cars ecu can screw all up by making some weird decisions who knows.
Its just car has bad reaction to gas pedal now specially from slow drive or stop when you want to accelerate its very laggy. Im giving order for car to go by pressing gas pedal but its like cant make that happen , making bad fuel mix or smt.

 

[Ratbag]

Something extremely simple. One should never rest one's foot on the accelerator pedal when starting. If one does this, it will cause the TPS to have an incorrect start position value.

Just a thought.

 

[scalman]

And who does that ? Its not 80's car. Though in 80-90's car make it work good was so much simplier, spark plugs,wires fuel filter and go in most cases. We dont even have external fuel filter anymore.. i didnt had that on 2001 outback either it was inside petrol tank.
I maybe just messing up my ecu with those errors delete. It doesnt have time to learn after reseting, not sure but right after reseting errors it should drive ok right? I found that its not. So smt wrong there.
Need that proper cable and try that on some old laptop to see whats really going on there.

 

[scalman]

Yes more snow plz

 

[scalman]

got stuck on purpose , wanted to see what will happen. and saw that tires cant help you there at all, and dont spin wheels in that situation , because you will make ice under tires only and then its going nowhere. so anything helps even some cheap snow traps from market, put those under front wheels they got traction and right away i got out. i would have only shovel there, not much help really.
sand thats lots snow, my clearance to door is about 38cm so its that much snow there.

 

[scalman]

more cold, about -15 celcious it was. to do any job near engine in cold times just make sure your engine was warm/hot before , then you will have at least your hands warm while working for some time. so do it fast too, because its gonna get cold fast.
changed spark plugs, was doing it from ground so lying on snow that was .. not that bad just dont be there for long time

 

[Ratbag]

@scalman I've worked on cars outside when it's been down to -1°C. Sleet and frost, but no snow. At night, because I was working full time. It's not very funny if you hit your hands! I did on one memorable occasion pulling a bottom ball joint out of the radius arm on my Austin Kimberley back in the 1970s. Twice in the same spot! For some weird reason, it still occasionally tingles.

You have my sympathy working under those conditions ... .

 

[scalman]

It was ok rly and until sun was up i was worm. In summer i hate hot engine, but now it was so nice rly. Or touching exhaust warming up your hands , nice.

 

[scalman]

Tried something because other day got vag con cable and tried couple programs on laptop freessm and romraider. With later i got clear picture which cylinder has bad time to work normaly. 2 and 4

And then correction goes all the way with that bad power torque and such

So it can be injectors plugs or then valve at last, what i feared most. As for valve remove engine out.

But with romraider you can see just everything there. Though freessm has lots sensors too , all gearbox solenoids all that you can just see if smt wrong all voltages , amperages and such . Very good stuff for $10 cable .
Just add laptop. Even win 10 works fine.

 

[scalman]

 

[Ben Up North]

Gorgeous!
Particularly as where I'm currently sitting it's 30°C with 83% Humidity at 8:30am.

 

[Ratbag]

I loathe humidity ...