2006 Outback 3.0R 180kw VDC project

so new car , new project m new plans for it , and gathering new info what could be done witt it and choosing what fits me

what i bought

how it looked in my yard next day

changing inside and some outside bulbs to led's

examples for myself how lift would look with my rims and how bumper cut would look

so normal steps for me do lift at least as much as in that pic, and then maybe cut bumper

car how its sits now, how +5cm would look and then +7cm wheel is in the air
would need bigger tires for better look there.

checked front arches for rust and how it looks, and put some bitumen spray over there , and then put back that plastic cover back

front grill plasti dipped to black

how it looks in dark with some lights

 

[scalman]

-20 celcious today. started ok. just needed to wait some for gearbox to start to shange gears properly but after it gets warmer its all good

one problem to have roof rack in this weather you just cant clean all that snow and ice under it not with normal lenght winter snow cleaner /brush that i have at least and that ice now really sits there hard . some long and strong brush kinda thingy is needed there i guess

and bigger problem is old grease in those locks for hood and trunk. if they old where not changed like mine they could freeze in those temperatures and those parts inside just wont move, so in result i cant open my trunk now all those days thats got colder and hood i opened and then couldnt close as again old grease in lock was just frozen so just gave it some silicon oil spray there before it started to work again. but trunk i think i wont open till weather wont get warmer will be in couple days i think.
of course door windows wont open too for similar reasons, those wherent working allready when it was just couple degrees minus.

 

[scalman]

this was not about geting uphill that was easy with some momentum so then i thought what if you stop in worst places and then try to move what then happens. VDC was working , TC was off , so it was interesting for myself to see from side what wheels where doing and how revs where raising or not,

 

[scalman]

after that last hill climb i went too extreme and my front control arm ball joints or atleast one side went off, now its clicking and making terrible sound and feel inside car when you try to brake or accelerate on slippery snow. so those need to be changed, but i have same feeling in rear, and in rear i changed all bushings exept one that large one for one you need to remove all control arm from car. so i guess those went shot too, but i was waiting for them to go off , just they went off at worst time in winter in cold, with me do everything myself and outside its like worst time ...
today did just checkings , removed both front struts as well
hi lift jack there just makes all easy, without it i wouldnt bother to work with normal jack under car just too much. all that dried salt visiable on all car .. ouch

 

[Kevin]

You need a nice warm garage!

 

[scalman]

Yh man ohh how i need it i want it. I could work on this and other cars there in dry and warm. But then again hard things makes you stronger...

 

[scalman]

ordered used radiator as mine started to leak more and more.
new front bushings as lower ones gone , instead for front i took both control arms with poluretan in there. soft one not hard, should be plenty flex there still.
ordered new bushings for rear
something happened with my rear cv's i think so as they started first make sounds in rear , with some like movement sounds so i thought its just bushing but seems like not just that as now my 3rd 4th gears feels like sliping gear or smt, but i think more like my cv axle or just cv is gone and it doesnt have connection . not sure what else it could be as cars on 3rd or 4th gear and revs goes up like it would on Neutral gear or smt.. car still drives some and pickup speed but like its slipping.
it might be gearbox sure, but i heard all those sounds in rear now for couple days and it might just be cv axles in rear or diff, but i dont believe with faulty diff car would drive.
so yh need to start to fix some problems there. and lower lift maybe back to 5cm again as i think my axles could have there too much angle when full drops down.
i had bearbox errors before and it was solenoid and all gears worked fine, but now i didint get any error for gearbox it was just feeling like , well like cv axles broke or its came of from dif like unpluged or smt. there is no bad sound it just revs going up but car is not going faster. tried change gears in manual mode its same thing, its kinda not slipping in 1 ,2 but then in 3rd ... well its interesting and i will first look rear , those cv axles i think i will remove them both and see what state they in.

 

[scalman]

so hmm i m sure those gearbox problems is from it overheating because main radiator leaking and i guess it was not enough coolant so gearbox went up in temp, that would make sense , so tomor hopefully i change radiator and see whats going on then, should be fine .

 

[scalman]

changed radiator , but then checked rear stuff as it was lots problems last days driving it , and rear diff broken i guess. one side wheel in rear passenger side so wheel is turns , cv axle turns , but drive shaft doesnt turn and its some rattling clicking sound comes from diff itself. not from gearbox , from diff. so yh i will take it appart now i guess to make sure it is its fault and then will look for another used one with same ratio.

and homemade coolant system air bleeder jst cut bottle and put some masking tape on it until it will go very tight in .

and tested hi lift stabiliser , for now just with some tubes , but that worked fine . i lifet all rear on slippery snow without car moving to sides at all

so now in days will check that rear diff and will buy used one

 

[scalman]

now its problem to find rear diff that i need , because subaru just made everything super hard for everyone

subaru ...ftw ???!!! why you do this . ? you cant fit there anything else from any other model only 3.0 outback . just great.
and now we got most snow in all winter and its super deep snow everywhere, and my car is just 1WD now in front it just spins one wheel thats feels easiest. so i basicaly cant move with this fwd subaru now.

 

[scalman]

big job . changed diff but with that i removed everything in rear struts too, so it was huge job . alone in cold but was great time and amazing experience. nothing hard there.

it drives ok on road now, still its not giving any torque on low revs so i cant really play in snow as i would get stuck and couldnt move in reverse at all. some say i might have central plates problemin gearbox but on central like diff where it gives power to rear i guess. nto sure how that works but if plates are bad there it wont lock and wont give power... but i duno about that. maybe. not sure how to test to to be sure whats wrong. but my engine now makes bad fuel mix and cyl 2,4 missfires. well i removed catalyst so thats normal i guess that it gets bad fuel mix because that.

on better note still have front control arms with those poluretan bushing , so will put that later and see how much stiff car will be. but those are soft poly so maybe it will be fine. guy said those where used on rally cross car

 

[El_Freddo]

That diff @scalman!! Very unusual to have diff issues like that in a Subaru! I was thinking it could’ve been a drive shaft that popped out the side of the diff, but that says it all.

I need to not complain about not having a shed and working in the driveway over winter again. You win that “contest” hands down.

Keep up the good work!

Cheers

Bennie

 

[Kevin]

Those Lithuanians are a tough bunch!

 

[Ben Up North]

Very unusual to have diff issues like that in a Subaru!

Lots of towing perhaps? Person I knew a few years back was a subaru fan until they bought an SGII, broke the rear diff twice, never bought another subaru as far as I know.
Not sure what they were towing with it, but they used to tow.

 

[Ratbag]

@Ben Up North A friend tows his glider all over the place behind his Outback 3.0L H6. He's never had a problem.

 

[scalman]

Never towed anything with this car. So duno what caused this,trying to figuring out myself maybe my setup doing something wrong on that diff,but its just lift.
Thought those snow donut maybe helped like if wheels spin fast on snow and them it grabs something more grippy like grass. Not sure. I thought allways that cv axles are weaker and they would go out first.
Seems like those diffs lsd too, as both rear wheels if lifted turn to same side.
Another thing i wonder when you lift car and rear wheels in air they should turn easy with hand or hard? As mine turns very hard with hand. But maybe lsd works that way then.

 

[Ben Up North]

Never towed anything with this car.

I was wondering about previous owner.

Another thing i wonder when you lift car and rear wheels in air they should turn easy with hand or hard?

Is it in park? just a thought.
mine turn reasonably easily in the forester from memory.

 

[scalman]

Well those open diffs turns different then lsd i think.
Thing that im woried that might or might not hurt rear diff is when rear wheel goes down it goes inside and then it pushes diff more preasure with axle, as cvs compresses to its limits so they no longer have any free movement so all cv axle is packed and pushed to diff , i wonder is that hurts it in some way, though again it cant go more into diff so maybe thats no matter.

 

[Ratbag]

@scalman There's nothing on a car that cannot be broken if the driver is rough enough and/or stupid enough.

 

[El_Freddo]

@scalman - those diffs are open diffs from what I can see. When rotating one wheel on the rear the other should spin the other way. There shouldn’t be too much friction to do this - if there is, your brakes might be dragging a little.

Cheers

Bennie

 

[scalman]

yeh when i rotate one other turns same direction in rear. duno , they just do, and it feels kinda different on road specially on slippery snow and ice, it feels like back of the car just wants to slide more.
though i think it should be open as well. but when i tutn one wheel other turns same direction, even on removed diff i tried it just empty diff , when you turn that drive shaft entry , both sides turns same direction. so i duno
plus now poluretan in front and test drove different styles to see whats what so yh feels better in front more rigid more like stiff and nothing ratles on bad roads now too

found some pics non LSD vs LSD

and mine. not sure but this one looks different from both those . still there are like 3 or 4 rings or clutches there bolted or smt there

no that i need that LSD in rear as VDC is perfectly fine . but for some reason when i drove car today feels kinda different in corners mostly, when you turn and accelerate it feels like its wanna bite more.