2006 Outback 3.0R 180kw VDC project

so new car , new project m new plans for it , and gathering new info what could be done witt it and choosing what fits me

what i bought

how it looked in my yard next day

changing inside and some outside bulbs to led's

examples for myself how lift would look with my rims and how bumper cut would look

so normal steps for me do lift at least as much as in that pic, and then maybe cut bumper

car how its sits now, how +5cm would look and then +7cm wheel is in the air
would need bigger tires for better look there.

checked front arches for rust and how it looks, and put some bitumen spray over there , and then put back that plastic cover back

front grill plasti dipped to black

how it looks in dark with some lights

 

[scalman]

i know that. but even if its just bent some shock not gonna fall appart. i removed it yesterday top mount is fine too. control arm fine bushings fine ball joint fine as iv cnaged them just last week. steering parts are fine they dont look bent or loose. and i drive car as most times to work and back now its like 7 min drive to work at speed 70 km/h most now as with heavy snowing almost everyday.

 

[Veganpotter]

@scalman I unknowingly had a bend my front, left shock on my Sienna. I chewed through about 40k miles of tire in 5k miles. It just shredded the outside of the tire. It happened just the right way for my car to still feel like it was aligned. Whatever I hit changed the camber and toe in a way that kept me tracking straight because it was apparently puling the right in too. The outside of the right tire is only slightly better than the outside of the left. No clue how long I would have driven without noticing if I didn't get stuck and have to put some rocks under for grip.

 

[scalman]

i understand that as i said i will change shock in short time. and i aware of wrong tire usage with wrong camber , i had that in rear on previous car because lift and you cant do nothing with that as in rear no way to change camber , and yh you drive and you check your tires after while. my ko2's where about equally used when i sold car , though i had not great camber in rear on wheels. it was not that bad on tires somehow.

 

[Veganpotter]

@scalman The rears were practically brand new when i noticed. I'm tempted to get a tire groover to use them on my next Sienna when I buy another one. I think it'll be good to extend the life on all our tires anyway. Like when our ATs are still driveble, but not toothy enough for offroading. We can maybe get an extra season out of them by regrooving

 

[scalman]

I know most agressive muds ppl regrove those or extreme tires that are not made for roads. When tiree used its used thats it, change it , i now have my mud tires they regroved and its impossible to use them on road. Just forest or mud . I never will use them again. And i payed for them. Well now i learned

 

[scalman]

Was wondering about those universal catalyst converters. This car us euro 5 , so it needs euro 5 catalyst . Ok thats clear, but catalyst they sell is like 1 catalyst lets say up to 3.0 engine, so it would fit me, but thats for all exhaust ones catalyst, and my car have 3 of them and 2 of them has O2 sensors. So does that mean that in car those oem catalyst combined does same as 1 universal catalyst that is made for 3.0 engine? Then i could just use 1 new universal catalyst and would have same exhaust results then? Thats for mot i mean.

 

[scalman]

small tires not that much ground clearance, but winter is amazing this year

 

[scalman]

so its shock that is bent. now i saw it clearly.

and that front impact was stronger then i thought, good that i had that steel tube there so it got bent only and bumper got cracked , but it saved me from more problems i think there.

 

[scalman]

allways loved those vinyls on doors, allways thought i want one too

well in winter on our roads you get free "vinyl" on both sides front and rear

and thats not from snow , not from cold...

 

[JonB]

Is the second pic in the last post your diff?
It is LSD, you can tell by the join in flange that the crownwheel bolts to.

 

[Ben Up North]

Is the second pic in the last post your diff?

Say what? Looks like you were looking at a different picture to me..!
At times it's not bad to quote a bit of the post you were referring to.

 

[scalman]

Is the second pic in the last post your diff?
It is LSD, you can tell by the join in flange that the crownwheel bolts to.

Last post where? In post about lsd diffs mine is last large pic first 2 pics are from net. And my pic is diff from them both. Anyway in lifted rear both wheels turn to same side when you turn one side with hand .

 

[Ratbag]

@scalman viscous LSDs behave totally differently from mechanical LSDs when turned by hand on chassis stands. A vLSD behaves exactly like an open diff when turned by hand.

 

[scalman]

Could be , and those wheels in rear turns so hard with lifted rear no matter its on P or N . And then i read that newer lsd is diff from older ones so thats hard to know whas what and how it works.
I remember on my 2001 rear wheels just spin so easy lifted and on this car its hard to turn.
And i think only legacys and outbacks 3.0 using those ratios rear diffs, 3.27 rear lsd ones.

 

[scalman]

was good weather , sunny, warmer, so removed front bumper fix where it was cracked, and getting ready to cut it , now as it cracked anyway i will cut it , i know i want it , i loved my look of 2001 with cut bumpers.

and then looked whats hanging on both sides , removed that extra box from air box , so now left it open , its cold air intake now mod

 

[scalman]

so SH9 forester front struts its bolt on for BP outback 3.0 at least. and they are about 2-2.5cm higher struts. so gives extra lift too. why i didint knw that before? i mean all fits. top mount bolts same
as i needed at least driver side strut for me , i looked in scrapyards and they asked me 40 euros for used one without spring. so i found that SH forester front struts where 20 each. so i took both front ones and springs.

 

[scalman]

so even when weather got warmer gearbox doesnt work ok on cold car, i mean its not even cold now as we have 5-10 plus celcious now.still when i start driving its like laging laging for 30 sec sometimes less. and then its like ok i will raise revs and change gear. and those gears on cold changing wierd and bad with punch sometimes its chaging gears too early to next one and sometime keeps 2nd gear on 50km/h speed , so im like why ? then i switch them myself to higher , then later on warmer car it drives kinda ok ... but then again is it gearbox itself , or is it tcu or ecu deciding that from engine, like if engine has rough working on cyl 2,4 then maybe its messing up gearbox work, im not sure anymore on this car as that ecu decides so much , and then there is clutch plates, then there is torque converter..i just dont know anymore whos fault is it. i guees gearbox changing gear depend on how much torque engine gives it ? and it like drop to lower gear so often. like i drive stright nice road .. and i just want to go little faster not much so i want to accelerate slow ... but no car just drops gear to lower one , revs screeming , its gain speed and then change to higher gear, i mean from side it must look like im doing it on purpose or smt, but no i dont want to be race driver there lol .
my other theory if engine lacks power lacks torque then its maybe just compensating this with changing gears so much , i get it when it does this up hill or smt but why on straight good road? its like it dont have power at low revs thats why its change gear to geet higher revs just then it feels enough torque ... not sure. still weird on cold engine start driving it drives for couple seconds like in limp mode, and then boom revs jumps up and it goes. i mean if it would be limp mode it wouldnt change so fast to normal mode... and i changed spark plugs and injectors places... so what else. air filter is ok, maf cleaned , throtle body cleaned.

 

[scalman]

back to 7cm lift in rear. front maybe about 6cm with SH struts plus 5cm spacers. now juts need normal tires like 235/75r15

 

[scalman]

 

[scalman]

did more job , all day outside in end started to snow. but i tool me long time to put 5cm spacers on rear , i should did that with lift , but did just now. made custom stuff too as there is no way to do it other way. in normal lift kit you need to lower all rear subrame , but i made my own changes there. rewelded some stuff

changed rear main bushing too , just one one side , didint had time in one day for other side. maybe next day

custom stuff, because when you put there spacer it wont fit anymore. so for lift kits they give you spacers for all rear subframe, and i modify just one thing for that and no need to lower rear subframe. now all rear links are in oem position, bushings more healthy too.