2006 Outback 3.0R 180kw VDC project

so new car , new project m new plans for it , and gathering new info what could be done witt it and choosing what fits me

what i bought
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how it looked in my yard next day
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changing inside and some outside bulbs to led's
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examples for myself how lift would look with my rims and how bumper cut would look
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so normal steps for me do lift at least as much as in that pic, and then maybe cut bumper
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car how its sits now, how +5cm would look and then +7cm wheel is in the air
would need bigger tires for better look there.
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checked front arches for rust and how it looks, and put some bitumen spray over there , and then put back that plastic cover back
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front grill plasti dipped to black
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how it looks in dark with some lights
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Yes just before i had onw cyl missfire on 2 but now comes 3 5 as welk and they on other side so whats with them,
Hmmm. That cylinder misfire surely is a puzzle. Have you checked for vacuum leaks already?

so whats that sound ?
No clue what that is. From here it sounds like a bolt's teeth grinding through the metal bracket but I am not sure.
 
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Yh shame i dont have someone be on ignition and me listenning under car. Now that i think it started after i removed and put back headers. But there are no more bolts there so i duno. For me still its sound like from inside not outside rattlr. Someone said maybe its starter not retracting or smt.
 
could be my gearbox have problem because mechanical reason or electronic reason. checked battery and alternator, cables to them , seems fine, cleaned some worse looking contacts, but it didint changed thing that sometime ABS light with some kick in gearbox comes up with those 2 errors .
that could be some serious problem or just solenoid problem but im not sure , and duno how to check that without taking apart gearbox.

and tested again my loud exhaust option in forest, it was long time that i just enjoyed car me alone
 
3 catalyst on 3.0 engine , 3 , 2.5 engine have one catalyst, this have 3 .
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my welding skills upgrades after very welding, so for this im pretty happy with result
and for now it drives well, some extra sound in front extra whine sound that is heard outside but not inside so inside its sounds like normal car still, silent.
 
could be my gearbox have problem because mechanical reason or electronic reason. checked battery and alternator, cables to them , seems fine, cleaned some worse looking contacts, but it didint changed thing that sometime ABS light with some kick in gearbox comes up with those 2 errors .
that could be some serious problem or just solenoid problem but im not sure , and duno how to check that without taking apart gearbox.
Your shift solenoid D problem, according to Plain OM from subaruoutback.org, is usually a result of poor fluid maintenance, assumingly from the previous owners. Some people report that the code goes away after 1 or 2 fluid changes some will need a solenoid replacement.

my welding skills upgrades after very welding, so for this im pretty happy with result
Did you clean the catalysts or just inspected them?
 
yh i thought so too maybe i need to change gearbox oil , which is not that simple to do but its doable. and only oil you would recomend for that is OEM subaru oil yes ? or i could use other.

lets say i did stupid thing but well i did it and now im driving without any catalysts. and its smell more for sure when car sits in place on idle revs. i wanted to check does that is not my problem and i still dont know for sure. need to test drive it pure on petrol no lpg involved then ill be sure. for now it doesnt feel any better launching or anything because it can breath better, weird thing is, i thought i will get O2 sensor errors but im not. it must be too hot there now for those second O2 sensors i thought but they dont give any error because of that for now.
but people dont like now that its smells so much more inside car as well. not sure why because of wind puting it inside car because if no leaks why im getting that smell, for sure exhaust in rear smells much more now. and its not right way to drive i just wanted to see if that will change how car acts maybe make it like more torqy . but still need to do those tests , now dont that time for that. at least in sand it felt same driving in soft sand as was before. didint tried in reverse yet.

all clean and empty
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Not good. Maybe to try just change oil first and hope that solenoid will start work if not then duno. Change all valve body...hmm from where? Scrapyard.
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i mean my prob must be like electrical or solenoid based because ok today after work i thought ok i will go under car and see are any cables that i could like move by acident maybe and i didint find any, then i got ABS light with those 3 errors, and with those car wouldnt even move on small obstacle in front wheel. i put some like stones in front front wheels and tried to go on them and car couldnt , similar to how it was doing in reverse before... so then i reset error and start car again and errors where gone, and then i drove to road and it was like new beast launching from place like crazy ,,but after some 15-30 min of driving again ABS lights came up with those 3 errors and car became dead again. so its nto engine that gives those problems but gearbox or its brain or smt. or some solenoid for real. now that i felt how car can drive when its in good state and then what it becomes when it gets those errrors i think thats the main problem i have there all my time that i have it. it just changes from time to time not because engine or fuel or anything but because gearbox makes it drive badly. why then it can drive like beast when i delete errors . but some times it can sometimes its sill slug.
 
I know that some errors will put vehicles into "limp mode" where you cannot use cruise control, accelerate hard or go over a certain rev limit.
 
I know that some errors will put vehicles into "limp mode" where you cannot use cruise control, accelerate hard or go over a certain rev limit.
And, all engine parameters and settings go to default values - I.e. no variable engine management, IIRC.
 
yh i thought so too maybe i need to change gearbox oil , which is not that simple to do but its doable. and only oil you would recomend for that is OEM subaru oil yes ? or i could use other.
Subaru's stock ATF fluids are manufactured by either Motul or Idemitsu. Other's should be fine as long as they meet the specs but I would get whatever is recommended by the dealer. Subaru here recommends Motul ATF-1A after MY2003.

You only need at least 2 drain-and-fills. A full transfusion may be dangerous for the friction materials.

Not good. Maybe to try just change oil first and hope that solenoid will start work if not then duno. Change all valve body...hmm from where? Scrapyard.
If needed, you may be able to get one from Subaru. When my brother had his Transfer Duty Solenoid C replaced, the part used was a genuine from Subaru. They said they started making those solenoids to prevent the owner from spending too much if they have to be replaced. Cheers.
 
I know that some errors will put vehicles into "limp mode" where you cannot use cruise control, accelerate hard or go over a certain rev limit.
Yh it feel like that when launching but then at high speed on gear 4 and 5 it drives as before so it works then but yh it feels bad . Though because car can change like in minute to become normally driving again and them go back to slug mode must mean that something there like solenoid make those problems.
Now im trying to find which solenoid there is one that error calls solenoid D , anyone knows good chematics that i should look and find it?
 
Here it is for the 5EAT:
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This is the actual photo but is 180deg with reference to the above from ultimatesubaru:
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Again Shift Solenoid D is Direct Clutch Solenoid. It can be stuck open or close due to transmission fluid gunk or it may have been damaged, usually due to poor fluid quality, as well. Cheers.
 
thats amazing at last i got info i needed. Direct clutch solenoid then . ok . now i just need to find it for sale , doubt i could find its separate from scrapyard and it would be used anyway so no quaranty it would be good, so better find it new.
 
thats amazing at last i got info i needed. Direct clutch solenoid then . ok . now i just need to find it for sale , doubt i could find its separate from scrapyard and it would be used anyway so no quaranty it would be good, so better find it new.
It's not listed on Subaru's schematics but the Transfer Control Duty solenoid that my brother got for his BP5 was new and from Subaru.
 
tried change gearbox oild in two steps. first changed 3l , drove about 70km then put out another 3l and put new 3l in it. driving still same solenoid error comes up , maybe not that fast as before but when it comes its not going away as before, really no difference , though 60 euros for oil spend.
and some used but working rear door locks as mine started to work weird and sometimes its not closing rear doors from key. those i payed 30 for each. guess i still need that solenoid and will need at least one more oil change
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ohh man gearbox doing worse every day now. oil was wrong i guess. duno need to buy oem oil now and solenoid... yh and i thought i had porblems with my previous 2001 outback ... that was like tank in engine and gearbox side but rusty on body , and this one... noe can go very far into money repair.. damn... wish i had just simple 2.0 legacy now.
 
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