2006 Outback 3.0R 180kw VDC project

so new car , new project m new plans for it , and gathering new info what could be done witt it and choosing what fits me

what i bought
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how it looked in my yard next day
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changing inside and some outside bulbs to led's
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examples for myself how lift would look with my rims and how bumper cut would look
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so normal steps for me do lift at least as much as in that pic, and then maybe cut bumper
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car how its sits now, how +5cm would look and then +7cm wheel is in the air
would need bigger tires for better look there.
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checked front arches for rust and how it looks, and put some bitumen spray over there , and then put back that plastic cover back
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front grill plasti dipped to black
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how it looks in dark with some lights
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I had encountered the same door locking problem with my previous BP5, which my brother now owns. I had to overhaul the actuator instead of buying a brand new one for NZD 400 from Subaru that time.

The fault in the design is that the viscosity of the grease in the sealed actuator mechanism is much less-viscous than usual and isn't dielectric, so it leaks inside the motor, wraps around the magnets, which is OK but then leaks into the commutator, as well, which weakens the whole operation.

I had to clean the motor, especially the commutator and tested it before reinstalling. I used dielectric grease for the mechanism for peace-of-mind.

The whole actuator is sealed using an adhesive so I just used a soldering iron to weld about 7 points in the casing as re-gluing the whole lot is not guaranteed to work for a long time.
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You can use those actuators again, if you have time.

ohh man gearbox doing worse every day now. oil was wrong i guess.
Here, we don't have a Valvoline ATF variant that is compatible with post Dexron III Subaru 4EAT. I am not sure if there is one in Europe. Anyway, the manual states that Subaru HP ATF (Idemitsu or Motul) is required but Dexron III is OK to be used, although very temporarily, until you can get the right oil at the right place.

We use Motul ATF-1A here is as it performs best with any Japanese planetary-geared automatic. There is the Motul Multi ATF which is new and is supposed to be compatible with all planetary-geared automatics but I am always cautious with all-in-one fluids because after the Dexron III days, gearbox manufacturers started to go a little bit proprietary with their technology so all-in-one fluids became so-so. They had to go with proprietary technology because of fuel consumption and emission requirements. Your BH Outback used Dexron III, by the way, as well as the automatic transmissions of most vehicles that time.
 

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I thought so too i could just clean that actuator as its kinda works but very slowish at times. How did you took that plastic case apart? Knife? Did you put any grease there inside after cleaning those or just leave it clean?
Any thoughts how to force open rear door that is stuck in locked position and wont unlock now. My driver side rear door got stuck handles wont work because locking is not.unlocking fully so handle do nothing. I mean without braking that good looking door panel.
Sadly cant find yet that oil that i need in local shops here. But will search more. And dont see solenoids online as well just ones refurbished from china so like waiting a month or so and they not new .

Motul multi atf i can find. And in description it says about subaru atf hp. But is it rly fits same as oem or atf 1a?
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Or its just same as using dexron III
 
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cleaning trunk after long summer , now some stuff goes away just main things stays , 2 foldable chairs and foldable stove stays for sure. and tools. recovery ropes other stuff... now all clean and tidy , nice
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and car started now to drive on errors. i mean it gave me those 2 for solenoid and then got 4 cylinders missfire , and then in end too ricj fuel mix ... but there is BUT now . it drives ok . i mean all gears changes , duno happened from yeasterday, no more abs light or limp mode driving now it kicks in gears as it supose too, though its on solenoid D error... so whats that means ?
if i dont delete errors its now somehow acts as normal as drives as normal. ?
not sure where those missfires came from but car feels ok , little shakes on idle revs but that maight be other reasons but it drives ok ... well for today at least... and i was going some offroading and torturing gearbox , wanted to see if its goes into that bad mode, but it never did .. so i dont get this car...
how it drives now if i wouldnt see those errors i would knew something wrong with car... so why it can drive ok now but with error... ?? if solenoid is bad its bad then how its good now again ?
mistery but i didint touched errors for now , because i can use car and all works ok. i mean if solenoid wasnt working i would feel it in gears as i did last week... but it drives ok and no whining shirping sound too..
im afraid if i delete errors it will come back into that bad mode , so i left it now as it is ... will try for couple days and see whats will happen.

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thats how it went today with still solenoid error abut doing fine .. how so then ? before i couldnt do that in reverse it was just whine and do nothing ... and forward is much better too
thats with 8 errors.

 
How did you took that plastic case apart? Knife?
Yes, or a screwdriver. You can use anything to pry it open. The glue used is very minimal.

Did you put any grease there inside after cleaning those or just leave it clean?
I just used a contact cleaner to lubricate the whole mechanism. It has a thin oily film but will not harm the electronics. Another option is to put a minimal amount of dielectric grease.

But is it rly fits same as oem or atf 1a?
According to my Motul supplier, Multi ATF is much newer and is used by many mechanics who want to use premium ATF without worrying about compatibility with most. That is still a good fluid for Subarus. If ATF-1A gets phased out, which I doubt at the moment because it's specifically formulated for Japanese tiptronics, I would put in Multi ATF in mine as it still passes Subaru's ATF HP standards.

Or its just same as using dexron III
No, it's different. Multi ATF is a much higher-tech oil. Dexron III is also much, much cheaper. Dexron III is an old standard that is very universal for automatics up to the early 2000's and it's just the minimum requirement for those cars.

before i couldnt do that in reverse it was just whine and do nothing
If you put Dexron III in your 5EAT, it's still fresher oil than the one that you replaced, even though it's out-of-spec. Fresher oil helps with better fluid drive. Still, it's better to use the recommended fluid to get the best performance and longevity from the transmission. Cheers.
 
more i searching more i found some other oils that people from russia/poland at least using on their subaru 5eat
like this one
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FABRICATION SYNTHETIC
RECOMMENDATIONS SUBARU 4ATF SUBARU 5ATF SUBARU ATF HP
SUBARU K0415-Y0700SUBARU SOA868V9240SUBARU SOA868V9241SUBARU SOA427V1500

so for 4eat and 5eat then , and its not old type dexron III , its new one
 
those frameless doors must be kept in check as with time that glass become loose and rattle and gives more sound when closing doors, specially when closing doors with like hald opened window. so just tighten those place and it will be again much better
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and tried to fogure out why that one rear door lock is kinda locks just from 3 or 4 times and unlocks same , sometimes from first time but mostly not . so couldnt find much inside just with it open like that tried engage that motor and problem was inside i guess , it just didint wanted to spin those gears all times , again sometimes it went like stuck, then other times worked.
but how it can be same problem on 2 same side locks , when other side lock just works fine i duno ? i tried my lock from car and then another that i bought they both worked but not like fully.
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dodgy wiring back up the loom?
 
Its some car related . Saw those online many times allways wanted to make one myself. Was in scrapyard and took those 2 for 4 euros. Rest is little welding , some cuting and there it is. Its very portable too i can lift it with one hand and carry no prob. It was 18kg
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more i searching more i found some other oils that people from russia/poland at least using on their subaru 5eat
like this one
vhs-canvas-07dc14d27ab82111cad63fd9804e6964.jpg


FABRICATION SYNTHETIC
RECOMMENDATIONS SUBARU 4ATF SUBARU 5ATF SUBARU ATF HP
SUBARU K0415-Y0700SUBARU SOA868V9240SUBARU SOA868V9241SUBARU SOA427V1500

so for 4eat and 5eat then , and its not old type dexron III , its new one
That looks good. If it says Subaru HP, then it must be up to spec with the recommendation. We don't have that here but I have been to Germany and realised how much trust they have in their products.

and tried to fogure out why that one rear door lock is kinda locks just from 3 or 4 times and unlocks same , sometimes from first time but mostly not . so couldnt find much inside just with it open like that tried engage that motor and problem was inside i guess , it just didint wanted to spin those gears all times , again sometimes it went like stuck, then other times worked.
but how it can be same problem on 2 same side locks , when other side lock just works fine i duno ? i tried my lock from car and then another that i bought they both worked but not like fully.
Yes the problem is inside the motor. The commutator inside the encircled part is supposed to be coated in grease.
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The grease just weakens and disables the whole motor. If it moves, with the grease on, it won't be at the intended voltage, and won't turn the mechanism.

You can use 70% IPA initially to clear the gunk and then contact cleaner to coat the lot. Turn the electric motor on and off for about 10 times, reassemble the actuator, turn the motor again on and off (10x), install the whole assembly and then lock/unlock the doors 10x again. That allows the newly-cleaned motor to adjust slowly to load. Cheers.

EDIT: By the way, that white grease is the culprit. It is not dielectric and breaches into the motor thereby weakening it initially and eventually disabling it. I completely removed it and placed in dielectric grease/contact cleaner.

The motor is isolated on newer Subarus preventing such from happening again.
 
Roof rack red accents back
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Here we go this time with proper oil for 5eat and hope to change more then 4l now
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Will search more examples on youtube how to do it will see
 
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so i guess simple way to change well most of oil in that 5eat . its to disconnect that laine which goes after oil filter , so i did that and i poured from tat another 4l and put 4l new in .. so now if its wont fix it means solenoid really bad .. will it ever ends ... man i was so without engine problems on my 2.5 2001 outback, just some head gasket but all other worked great... and now i got myself into just more stuff here . because too rich fuel error and 2,4,3,5 cyls missfires as well .. lucky me
 
and its not fixing itself with just oil today all day was driving on that ABS light and car was very slow and limpy... error was deleting for very short time and it was coming up again . so solenoid mus be changed or all solenoid body or worse case gearbox .. damn .. not this month for sure no money for that .
 
again still looking for solenoid and couple other things. like randomly now for 2 days car was driving without any errors even no cyl missire ones... so 2 days rly good launch from stop like i can feel power and all, again it just same random that good driving , ohh then 3,5 cyl missfired on lpg but thats maybe lpg injectors fault, still with those errors car was like very enjoyable.. and today in evening ABS light came on again. i stoped left car for some time , and then came back later to cold car no lights , drove again ok . but for short time only.
trying to find if possible for that direct clutch solenoid oem number or smt but cant find it as i guess subaru dont seel them as separate, not sure.. so you could say that now for 2 days car drove good. as normal car would i guess. so its misterry still. sometimes even without ABS error it drives slugish.. and then sometimes like now it launches like instant as i would like it do . and i guess gearbox is still in learning mode as i understand its learning everytime after you reset it with battery disconnect and draining all juices from it . but all gears works , sometime on D mode it doesnt want to go that fast to 3rd gear so its like raising revs in city on 2nd gear and doesnt go to 3rd, then i stich to 3,4 manualyy and its good again, maybe thats some learning too .
im being lazy to not buy that better cable and do that better error readings on those better programs on windows laptop that everyone uses. i need to just take that cable and see myself , get more detailed info about everything.
i bought LPG cable with soft so i can see how LPG works , but i need that cable for engine too i guess.

again good stuff that my roof rack can become flat surface roof rack if i need to carry something bigger and put it on flat surface, i was byuing some OSB 3 boards and they where like 2500x1250 so it was way more then my roof rack dimensions and they where not thick ones so i needed that flat surface for them not to brake while i carry them, so thats was again some thing that i made myself to be practical for my needs
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bad thing about that still are those mount bolts that goes higher then surface so thats not cool will rethink that and redo later for it to be real flat surface without bolts sticking out. still it was fine didint damage nothing there .

oh about that earlier gearbox oil change when you want to drain that rest oil from those 2 tubes that comes and goes from oil filter , well dont disconnect them while engine is running .. you will get some nice surprise there some oil shower stuff will happen lol . but thats fast way to drain lots oil from it .
 
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