2006 Outback 3.0R 180kw VDC project

so new car , new project m new plans for it , and gathering new info what could be done witt it and choosing what fits me

what i bought
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how it looked in my yard next day
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changing inside and some outside bulbs to led's
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examples for myself how lift would look with my rims and how bumper cut would look
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so normal steps for me do lift at least as much as in that pic, and then maybe cut bumper
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car how its sits now, how +5cm would look and then +7cm wheel is in the air
would need bigger tires for better look there.
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checked front arches for rust and how it looks, and put some bitumen spray over there , and then put back that plastic cover back
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front grill plasti dipped to black
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how it looks in dark with some lights
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After injectors 246 cleaning yesterday now i have one broken o ring on injector and another just holding there and its weekend and nowhere to find here localy those. poop. I drove still with small leak until it switches to lpg . And i working now so cant search for them and in evening nothing will work after my work. Hmmm .asked local subaru guys maybe they have something similar in size though i duno what size i need
 
so in case of emergency if your injector leaks petrol and you dont have around any car shops or they dont work , maybe some other shops works and they sell those water seals for water instalations at home. not sure how long they will hold but for now i have no leaks from injectors
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so in case of emergency if your injector leaks petrol

How is the engine now, @scalman?

Also, usually, there are local automotive seals suppliers around most cities. They usually serve industrial customers like transport and they sell at good prices because they buy them in bulk.
 
Well after that diagnostic guy said my cyl 2 is doing much detonations after i cleaned those injectors first drive no errors and it was working ok in lpg as well. So sudenly all went kinda fixed. But then yesterday at some point from driving too hard in petrol cyl2 missfire came again but then went away when i released throttle. So something is there in that cyl2 i guess.
But its driveable car now. I rly dont have money now to do that valve job.
Will clean other injectors as well when i get new o rings.
Well you need original o rings for this and rly noone online had those here localy well one shop had but they dont work weekends.
They have some o rings for other cars like.bmw audi vw local but not subaru ones . And now my ear learned to hear how engine works just from exhaust if it vibrate i can feel too. And if it works and drives on lpg too means in all engine works better .
Still not like perfect but it goes like before without errors for now.
Update : drove 10 min to work. In end errors p0172 and 0175 for too rich fuel mix pops up. Well i had them yesterday when injector leaked i thought of that reason now checked again injector not leaking but too rich mix from somewhere still. Interesting. But i lost that one plastic ring that goes on top injector could that mean anything i mean petrol comes in and sprays . So yh guess now i will need that fix kit with all parts all rubbers like this
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So my cyl 2 injector dont have that retainer ring now just rubber o ring man... maybe i lost it when removed injector but why it came out so easily. Ohh man. More stuff needed and more waiting from ebay .
 
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So even when something goes right , something else just goes wrong there. So i need that retainer plastic ring where do i get it now from ? Yh sucks.
Most kits in ebay are from china so its like waiting a month or so fo those. So what i just dont drivey car for month, yh thanks but no thanks. Buy used injector from scrapyard still cost some because i would believe they no cheap but thats option sure.
And i made mistake first after i cleaned injectors i didint put that cover on because i wanted to see and check do they leak after some driving seems like that fudl line got a lot heat there , but does that metal cover keeps injectors from heat? How could it ... hmm anyway.. i will order those o rings tomorow so i will get them send to me in couple days i hope. One o ring is like 3.5 euro. Ok . Hope they will hold like forever for that price
All kit from china or usa cost like $20 with all rubber for all 6 cyls.

And my injector cleaner fast made was like this.
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Not perfect it was some leaking outside on preasure but it worked. but man that carb cleaner eats rubber . I sealed those tubes with simple electrical duc tape and after that sesion it was like soft half melted allready. But did the job there. So thats counts.
 
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Yes, the nearest culprit of that P0172 is the fuel injector. It may not be able to hold the proper pressure without the retainer ring.
 
Well if only that then i will ask how much used injector, or ask some local subaru guys maybe they have some bad injector ,i just need that one part. Will order new o rings and change them maybe on all injectors then. Or not , but will clean them all ,135 as well.
I can tell car runs more smooth allready before on lpg i got like vibrations to steering wheel at about 90 km/h couldnt figure out what that was and turns out it was vibration from engine. Wow. Never thought its comes to wheels. Because now vibrations gone too,
I hope i wont need do that valve job soon if its gonna drive kinda ok now will see whats next, maybe new tires then and maybe some tuning for better launch if its possible. Would be nice to get more pull from low revs too not just from 3k rpm.
So that lpg is good indication if car going ok or not because its much more sensitive on engine work and strangely lpg works bad if petrol works bad though its not uses petrol... so hmm yh if petrol make ecm crazy then lpg kicks in it makes that ecm even more confused i guess. Lol
Nice learning in last weeks i learned so much now. Cuting exhaust makes you learn how engine feels from just sound, wouldnt be possible with full rear mufflers on, though i will put them back with time as on long driving it can become just too much sound every time it goes to lower gear it goes louder thats fun and all for me but when i carry others in car maybe not so much for them.
I thought make some hole there that i could cover when need or open when i drive alone just want more loud exhaust. So would be option louder or silent like some sliding door on tube or just some other way to easy open hole just before mufflers or close it.
 
Thanks all mates for all info.
Should i put back now new spark plugs again? Or just leave those?
 
Pall that i bought car told he changed plugs not so long ago so it was...late autumn. But i have new ones so hmm . Maybe it makes no much difference. Though maybe bosch ones have some smaller gaps. Ngk was about.75 gap bosch was like .65
 
Pall that i bought car told he changed plugs not so long ago so it was...late autumn. But i have new ones so hmm . Maybe it makes no much difference. Though maybe bosch ones have some smaller gaps. Ngk was about.75 gap bosch was like .65
Hmmm. I have always used NGK for Japanese vehicles. I have also heard stories of Bosch not doing well with Japanese vehicles. I think that may be why they kept the Bosch spark plugs on sale here for the European and American cars only, not for the Japanese ones. You want to give the NGKs a try? Make sure they are the correct plug temperature.
 
found some old pics on photobucket site that i cant use anymore but could save pics still. i miss that car was nice looking and very nice driving. no problems what so ever, cheap to maintain cheap to fill up because LPG too. and look at license plate it was before that red 2001 outback. ohh good old times when i drove stick...
it was mazda 323f 95' 1.5 manual , no ABS , no AC
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That car corners hard for an FF. The JDM version of that is the Mazda Lantis. You have got the EU engine as it is better for emissions. The JDM ones have 1839 to 1995cc (KZ-FE) (Type R). It is one of those good-looking underrated cars out there.
 
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oh wow i just dont understand this car at all.
so yesterday and today with double orings from home depot shop and no retainer car was drivink ok on petrol with trowing maybe error for too rich fuel mix but on lpg it was fine, getting up to revs fast all good, so today i dorve to guy used injectors up i go went flying passing lories on highways car was flying just that error coming up but car was going good i mean it had pull.
so now i bought 3 used injectors , duno what model from but must be 3.0 or 3.6 i guess they go similar to those models people say you can use 3.6 injectors on 3.0 car but need reflash ecm for those.
so ok i bought 3 injectors little different marking denso but with different letters, so i thought lets try change one right away, not sure maybe it was clogged or not or working or not but i changed one of those used one instead that one that was without retainer ring , so i changed them right there on parking and drove home, car wasnt so happy on low revs some vibrations but it was going on petrol or lpg ok , so i drove home , not as good as before i changed injector but was ok . so i drove home, i thought ok i will now clean those other injectors 135 and those that i bought used
so i took away all injectors all cleaned them, then i thought i will try to put back other used injector instead that on cyl 4, so another from used ones , not mine that i had. ok i changed , started car , hmm well is ok on revs but something still not quite ok . then i thought why not try to remove that retainer from used one and put on my injector that was on car, so i thought if i will brake it so be then i just use one of those used injectors i cleaned them all anyway..so i put retainer on cars injector again removed alll 3 , and put back original that was on car with retainer ring with o ring all as needs to be ...and started car , revs ok on petrol, but then i switched to lpg and it doesnt wanna work again, now it work on lpg same as was bad days before, when it was detonation on my cyl 2.
so what a hell is going on.. now my car on original injector that has double orings from home depot shop beck then it was driving ok , and now with retainer ring and with proper oem o ring car going like poop again...
dont have any more time to look for problem as going to work now ... but damn thats kinda depresing ... whats changed ? and now its working on lpg as it would work on just 5 cyls like one cyl wouldnt work. so same as was when i did diagnostics... ohh my. i dont get it . i changed all to better

on left passenger side injectors , right driver side injectors and up are those used that i bought from scrapyard.
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so i tried to drive on one of those used ones first then i changed it to another used one but didint drove just started car, then i changed back to cars own injector just put on it retainer ring and o ring from used one. and car now poop. ??!!

now to rewind some events. day before i drove do diagnostics it was driving bad same as today, so he said its detonation on cyl2, so i got back home and just cleaned those 246 injectors , broke one oring , put some other oring instead, didint put that injector metal cover back , and drove like that same evening was fine no erros nothing drove great, then later that injectors started to leak , so next day i put 2 orings on it because lost retainer ring . drove with those wrong o rings for another day and it was going fine no leaks only error for too rich fuel mix .
now i fixed all put retainer put o ring and it drives like shize again .
now as soon as i start to drive errors cyl 2 ,4 right away , and both of those. deleteing and 2,4 again. and on lgp drive like on 5 cyls .

so one logic way i see is go back to that water o ring witout retainer ?? its funny but its not same time. whats going on rly with this car. ?
will be fun day tomorrow changing injectors 10 times there and back again. my fav job now .

more important why it was driving good just yesterday and today before injector changing . car was flying overtaking other cars was like nothing .. and now its back again to being bad ?
 
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That can be frustrating but is still interesting how minor changes affect the whole operation. I don't think the ECU likes the injector change, at all. You can probably try to bring back the original injectors, use the retainer ring from the new ones you purchased, start the car, making sure that nothing is leaking, then reset the ECU. Oftentimes, the pending codes influence the ECU to limp. Be advised, though, that some OBD readers do not deep reset the ECU. Subaru Select Monitor (SSM) can do that but it can also be done manually - Reset the ECU and do a manual electronic purge:

I am not really a Scotty Kilmer fan but some of his old videos can be useful. Doing the purge will be like you are using the deep reset feature of SSM.

I think you are already isolating the original P0302 issue to the injector. Cheers.
 
you mean do battery reset after changing injectors ? well ecm can only know that i dissconected injector and connected later , not sure how its not liking it , but i did put back original injector now its on its own injector and works worse then ever. but before this i was driving on other used injector. how it can be so sensitive on injectors ? so i cant change them places even ? i dont believe that. like i removed 135 injectors they same marking and i put them back in different places i cant remember which injector was where. so maybe now my injector 5 is in 1 place.
i will play with it more next day as im curious myself whats going on there.
as i understand and tried myself to fully reset ecm on any car , you unplug battery is not enough, you need push brake pedal and hold for about minute or so, just then all juices will go away from any components. similar style that in video.
and not sure what those different marking means denso and 3 letters or so. couldnt find anything about that on net, and its not finding anything if i enter just denso and those 3 symbols , i thought it would be injector model but seems that not. at least google not showing anything on that to me.
weird stuff so ECM can make even good injector work bad because it would mess it up for some reason. still i would like to know like real reasons why it would do such thing , one day its fine on bad injector and leaking petrol from it , lettting car just drive with that fine, and next day its deciding to mess up with fixed injector. ok ill see to that
yes sometimes codes appear as full error codes and sometimes just pending codes.
and what was not before , i mean before all this weird story , check engine lights comes up and dissapear just from driving style from revs from torque , earlier if error code would come up it would stay until i reset it , now it can just go away itself , well at least check engine lights do that , maybe error staying in ecm. but i will dig down to that too as i allready started all that . people are not changing so much in car in all its life as i did in last week or so, and doing it in service garage would cost just so much money ... i worked there before so i know how they do stuff and how they "finding" problems. i did same stuff before and they do that now as well.
 
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Yes, you've basically turned over the whole fuel system already. It can be a bit of a pain when you have already followed the diagnosis and you are left with symptoms that don't directly give feedback to the ECU.

The reset on the video is not just a battery disconnect but a whole electrical purge, so it will also reset the TCU, BCU, etc. It's not good if you don't want your TCU settings to change.

Regarding the 3 characters on the injectors, I will see if I can find any info on those but the ones you have definitely look identical.

What if....it's compression related? Have you checked all the cylinders' compression values?
 
Well if its valves still they said compression can not show that becausr it could be just exhaust valve its like down and compresssion can be good still but valves not good. So its no re way to know just if you eliminate all othet stuff then its valves left.
Because on lpg engines work on much higher temp and its dry burn not like petrol thats why lpg usage allways goes to valve job sooner or later. And on subarus they very expencive because need to remove lift up all engine to get to those. Some say its possible to do it on car, but mechanics all remove engine so most price goes to engine removing and putting back.
Need to learn about it more see could i do it myself or at least half job myself. Would be cheaper.

I think pushing brake pedal on disconnected battery does same trick at least electrician told me that but sure i will reset all and see
 
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