2006 Outback 3.0R 180kw VDC project

so new car , new project m new plans for it , and gathering new info what could be done witt it and choosing what fits me

what i bought

how it looked in my yard next day

changing inside and some outside bulbs to led's

examples for myself how lift would look with my rims and how bumper cut would look

so normal steps for me do lift at least as much as in that pic, and then maybe cut bumper

car how its sits now, how +5cm would look and then +7cm wheel is in the air
would need bigger tires for better look there.

checked front arches for rust and how it looks, and put some bitumen spray over there , and then put back that plastic cover back

front grill plasti dipped to black

how it looks in dark with some lights

 

[scalman]

ohh that black wire is not bypass its timing going to LPG computer thats all, i tried to remove it and error still come up without it so its same with or without. so thats just cable that gives timing to LPG computer.

i cleaned that MAF sensors before with some carb cleaner there, it was not that dirty looking from close. it didint make any changes after i cleaned it .
yes that STFT1 jumps all over the place sometimes its positive then its negative then its zero, its changes. i tried to day remove that chamber / resonator and drive without it so it was very loud, i deleted errors and drove like that for about 5km up to speeds 100km/h and error didint came up on that time, but it was just too loud to scare all other cars around, everyone was keeping distance from me on road lol.so i came back and put back that chamber , and after i started car and drove couple meters errors come up again. same. cyl 2 missfire.so dont know . maybe when i removed that chamber it let catalysts to breath more and car was more happy like that , so could be that catalysts are clogged .
about O2 sensors could be but they have they own errors do they not ? and they very sensitive if something wrong with those car shows error for them? or not ?
that torque app shows vacum values too but dont know if that could help to upderstand vacum leaking or not.

and thats raw data from app when i drove without resonator/chamber , and error didint came up, still that STFT1 was jumping

in this video now that compared those O2 sensors getting more voltage there up to 0.9v when before in previous video they where getting very little voltage with that resonator on.
and that STFT1 now at times had positive value too.

 

[scalman]

still thinking how to test that for longer time without resonator but without too loud exhaust as well, maybe change resonator to just tube for that test, but then so much extra work later to weld all back again ... but if thats only way then i might do it , or somehow keep it up there but disconnected so it wouldnt hit the ground , but then its just so loud omg, i dont wanna scare people around so much haha.
this version is very loud

 

[Ben Up North]

doesnt drive from stop it lags feels like its choking on low revs just whe it jumps to higher revs its start going,

I had that happening a little while ago. Turned out to be a buggered lead.

 

[scalman]

I had that happening a little while ago. Turned out to be a buggered lead.

And where it was?
My car drives like for long time now. Thats why it doesnt go reverse i think.

 

[Ben Up North]

And where it was?

One of the leads to the coils. Dunno which cylinder it was. it was definitely no power at low revs, but ok at higher revs though.

 

[scalman]

One of the leads to the coils. Dunno which cylinder it was. it was definitely no power at low revs, but ok at higher revs though.

And how you found it. Measured resistance on leads or something?

 

[Ben Up North]

And how you found it.

took it to a mechanic, who found and replaced it. not sure how.

 

[ABFoz]

@scalman, can you post here the DTC codes that you have been getting? It is easier to diagnose the misfire with those codes. Cheers.

 

[scalman]

Thought i mentioned its P0302 cyl 2 missfire. Thats all and it says little because many reasons for it to come up. Followed with cyl 4 missfire from same series.
Will see that cable again maybe i need do dissconnect all pack remove them all and check with voltmeter.

 

[ABFoz]

Oh OK. Sorry, I overlooked that. P0301 to P0306 have the same diagnostic procedures.

Please refer to the following diagram.


We have to do the process of elimination.

• With the ignition switch ON, check that the output voltage signal from the ECU is more than 10 volts. So connect B136 no. 1 to 5 and B137 no.1 to chassis ground. If they are more than 10 volts, they are OK.
• If not, check the resistance between the fuel injectors harnesses to the chassis ground with the ignition switch OFF and the connectors removed. So that will be the number 1s of E5, E16, E6, E17, E43, E44 to the chassis ground. The value must be less than 10 ohms. If anything shows more than 10 ohms, there is a fault/short circuit in the fuel injector harness/connectors.
• If nothing shows more than 10 ohms, disconnect the ECU B136 and B137 connectors, as well, and test the resistance between the No. 1s of E5, E16, E6, E17, E43, E44 and B136 no. 1 to 5 and B137 no.1. The resistance must be less than 1 ohm. If any of those show more than 1 ohm, that part of the harness must be repaired/replaced. Note: I used an extension to the multimeter here. I also asked the help of one of my brothers as my arms aren't that long. Hehe.
• If the resistance of shows more than 1 ohm, check that the resistance between the terminals 1 and 2 of each injector is between 5 and 20 ohms. If it falls outside that, replace the affected injector accordingly.
• If all the injectors are OK, check the power supply to the injectors with the switch ON. If all voltages are more than 10 volts, there is just poor contact between the affected connector.

We may have been blaming the ignition but P0304 points to the injector system initially. I hope the instructions are somewhat clear. Update us. This is interesting in real life. Cheers.

 

[scalman]

Ohh i never checked injectors yet. Good points ill try to find those and check for sure now. As i used injectors cleaner now two times after that i got that cyl 2 missfire right away, maybe its something with injectors for sure.
Just one thing where i will find that b136 location. Trying to figure out where it is and how to get to it

 

[ABFoz]

Ohh i never checked injectors yet. Good points ill try to find those and check for sure now. As i used injectors cleaner now two times after that i got that cyl 2 missfire right away, maybe its something with injectors for sure.
Just one thing where i will find that b136 location. Trying to figure out where it is and how to get to it

B136 is at the ECU itself. Cheers.

 

[scalman]

Found connectors . But hmm i cant test nothing with them on just when i pkug it off but then its not connected to injectors..
Well anyway voltage more then 10v comes to all 6 pins , and then i tested voltage on injector plug and there come same voltage just little over 10v.

But then resistance between injector connector and ground was more then 10 ohms. So hmm
So get ti ecu is not that east task is it?
But i checked other things at least voltage is ok from ecu and voltage is ok from ecu to injector itself

 

[scalman]

Voltage from ecu to every injector is coming with ignition On

Resistance between injector connector and ground, and voltage to injectors 2 and 4

In that diagram it sayd resustance should be less then 10 ohm's but maybe i measure it wrong way here.
Yh still not tested injectors themselfs just voltage to them.

Yh dont get it diagram says if resistance is more then 10 ohm there is a shortcut or something there. And i got 10.5 ohm on both injectors 2 and 4. So then how to look for that shortcut and where.

But got to ecu and checked voltage there all pins had about 11.9v there so there all good. Does that means all injectors good?

 

[scalman]

All is good there there no resistance is cables at all i was on wrong ohm switch there on voltmeter. I have more resistance in voltmeter cables then on those injector ones they showed zero ohms there between injectors as well. So seems all with injectors is good.
Will try to drive maybe some more without resonator later outside city . Interesting if removing resonator wont bring errors maybe.
And could be nice to check same way those coil wires if its some diagram for that too.

 

[scalman]

Test drive with removed resonator in forest. Error was still coming up and going away. Heres example of still lag on low revs. Pedal was to floor both times. Is it normal? I hope not because then it sucks to drive so laggy car

I could then just pick same year 2.5 manual and would have more fun i think. Or even like same gen legacy 2.0 manual dual range, lift that make it to outback and have fuel saving car there . Not this 20l / 100km for city and bush monster that dont want to perform at all.

 

[ABFoz]

Test drive with removed resonator in forest. Error was still coming up and going away. Heres example of still lag on low revs. Pedal was to floor both times. Is it normal? I hope not because then it sucks to drive so laggy car

Hmmm. There is definitely some hesitation there. Maybe have another go at a really strong injector or fuel system cleaner? A clogged injector will still misfire even when the electrical signals are OK. P0302 is just the symptom, not the cause.

We use Genuine Subaru Fuel Additive at least once a year on all our Subarus, making sure that the fuel system is in tip-top condition. Our manufacturer is Bars Leaks OZ (http://www.barsleaks.com.au/product/subaru-fuel-additive-250ml/) but it may be different in the EU.


Subaru additives have the appropriate PEAs required to dissolve all the gunk in the fuel system and even in the combustion chamber.

I first used it on my previous BP5 EJ204 when I noticed that the engine has a minor vibration on idle. I went to different Subaru mechanics but they couldn't find anything. One mechanic inferred that if one injector is not performing 100%, it will cause the vibration. Two fuel additives later, the vibration is gone and the engine has been running beautifully ever since. The BP5 is owned by one of my brothers now.

You mentioned before that the fault code popped up after using a fuel injector cleaner. What may have happened is that the cleaner may have dislodged a significant amount of gunk in the fuel system and clogging the injectors. Clogged injectors will not throw a code as they are but when the cylinder misfires due to delayed combustion, that is just when you get a code. Try a good fuel injector/system cleaner first. Otherwise, sonic cleaner of the injectors can be a bit pricey. Cheers.

 

[scalman]

I have vibrations too. Before i had them just on lpg because one not ok jpg injector , but now i have vibrations on petrol as well on low revs when im on gear but standing on brake, its now vibrations with clicking sound even. Using that injector cleaner made those now more appear even.
What you said make sense to me as well, so more fuel system cleaning then,wouldnt hurt i guess.
Updated my bike hitch rack some,

still looking for some strong rubber that i ciuld lock those frames and tires in place

 

[scalman]

So added another fuel system cleaner other kind now says bottle for 50l fuel i put bottle on 20l petrol and now driving on petrol only. Right away errors comes and goes away themselfs and now not one but 2 and 4 cyl missfires but even when error goes away on idle revs i can feel that engine doesnt working smooth it vibrates and such.
I could change injectors to other like change them places like from 1 cyl put on 2 cyl and then see what error will come up.
And still thinking about that cable that goes into 2 coil .

 

[scalman]

I have it new so why not change. And it was in not best shape when i removed it so win win. Should now drive even more quite at least i hope so
Its really easy job if you not removing axle