2006 Outback 3.0R 180kw VDC project

so new car , new project m new plans for it , and gathering new info what could be done witt it and choosing what fits me

what i bought
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how it looked in my yard next day
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changing inside and some outside bulbs to led's
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examples for myself how lift would look with my rims and how bumper cut would look
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so normal steps for me do lift at least as much as in that pic, and then maybe cut bumper
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car how its sits now, how +5cm would look and then +7cm wheel is in the air
would need bigger tires for better look there.
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checked front arches for rust and how it looks, and put some bitumen spray over there , and then put back that plastic cover back
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front grill plasti dipped to black
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how it looks in dark with some lights
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There's a gasket in there according to my workshop manual. Inside is the "Valve Assembly" so there could be other things wrong inside
 
Some more injectors for me to play with. Another 4 for 30 euros .thats pretty good deal though they not guaranter that they works. Well whats wrong could there be . And i looked that all rubbers be soft not hard as on my car. Means that they used less then in my car at least.
Gonna proper clean them inside and out and try them on those 246 cyls. See what happens.
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heard some extra sound from that on left wheel that i didint changed bearing yet... now its all good and silent. and 3 random injectors put into 246 cyls, drives ok , but vibrates on low revs still. but when revs go higher it pulls great.
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Well those cheap comforser/ roadcruza tires are long used in russia and some here too so they tested allready for some time and people are ok with them thats why im thinking of those too. And they where used and tested by teams in dakar rallys. They not so cheap as cheap those maxxis tires are cheap too consider and they are allready famous all over.
Maxxis is a Taiwan brand and has been tuning their tyres to adapt to demands. I would choose that brand among the three you posted. I would stick with A/T, though.

When I was searching for tyres for my 16", I considered Maxxis AT771s but they are just at least NZD 100 more expensive than my G015s. They are cheaper in some markets, though.

Some more injectors for me to play with. Another 4 for 30 euros .thats pretty good deal though they not guaranter that they works. Well whats wrong could there be . And i looked that all rubbers be soft not hard as on my car. Means that they used less then in my car at least.
Gonna proper clean them inside and out and try them on those 246 cyls. See what happens.
The rubber seals on the two on the right still look sharp!
 
Some club members here run Maxxis and are happy with them. My son has been running Maxxis on his Amarok and is happy with them (he runs Grabbers on the Forester)
 
Yh maxxis are good im sure just couldnt find AT models here in that shop at least.
Just all depends on size then. Not all those have right size.
Injectors all worked just didint clean them before putting as carb cleaner was over. Drove as it is yesterday eve.
 
What could make clicking sound when on gear and brake same time. On P its gone on gear and brake pedal starts click click click like something would be loose and touching metal that kind sound. But it depends what position wheel is if try turn wheel to one or other side on some positions its going away, clicking sound more on straight wheel
Found problem driver side steering link has some loosenes and click but from sterring rack not from wheel. Will see maybe its just loose there,if not will need to replace. If only that its simple fix then.
Too hot sitting on leather and whe going swim and then sit wet on leather its even worse so will try those things.
 
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that sound
sometimes that sound come while driving when revs drops down , when revs goes up all good , then when pressing brake on Drive its starts clicking sometimes so loud that its really loud.
its not what i thought its still there. it was not there week ago. so valves just went to poop in a week ? and engine works badly not smooth vibrates jumps in revs then drops down. all could be because valves i know.
other thing can i drive without that cover for fuel injector line?
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when i put it back something there happened and car worked worse but what that cover touches there , only wires , so maybe some wires there could have some problems there, then i removed that cover and it worked better , so something there is wrong. and maybe that cylinder works badly from that , but when i checked wires they where kinda ok , but something is there still going on. now i drive without that cover .
 
I've listened too but cannot determine what is causing that cyclic noise. Unless when the car is in gear the tension caused by torque is making a mounting "bump"
 
I might know why you have so many problems with your Outback....some parts are "made in Italy" !
 
So its not gearbox then. Iv read some more about ticking clicking sounds but they all mentioned not in gear just all time. My engine goes to low revs then kinda wantsbto shut down then jumps to revs and idles again and it works like that, so that bad working causes that ratling clicking maybe.
So people say its valves or exhaust leak or injectors , like used injectors can make that too. Or its belt tensioner but that would be all time and mine is not.
But then it came like in last week so what happened in last week here. I changed lots i jectors nothing more rly.
Put back now oem injectors that car was with in first place thought maybe those where better. But its same stuff.
Not sure what means made in italy? I didint put any aftermarket parts to car well not in engine area so i duno.
In the end it will be that cyl 2 valve is bad and nothing i can do about it i guess.
But whats clicking rattling still.
I swear when i turned wheel on runing car and i hit with hand into tire i hears some cliking sound yesterday but when i removed wheel and steering link there was no lossenes there at all.
Can cv ratlle like that. But why would it?
That cyl 2 allmost doesnt work when i dissconect cyl 2 injector plug its works about same as with it plugged.
But i changed injectors test drove it. Was fime. Then came back engine off then start again and it works without one cyl just randomly after good drive . And its so hot outside now that its impossible to work on sun .
 
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Vibration and that sound comes straight from when engine goes into bad vibrations on low revs when revs constant all quiet, when it goes to like more vibrating like engine shaking then this sound.
But engine alone would shake ok whats hiting there, something loose, not sure. Like engine would shake so much that it would hit like skid plate or smt. Or something else that its loose .
Now its shaking on parking gear. So funny thing if i keep revs just on 1k rpm nothing shakes nothing rattles if i just leave revs to idle it drops below 0.5 and then that rattle starts. So if my idle would stay on 1k rpm it wouldnt make that sound at all.
And why engine now doesnt wanna work on low revs that other thing.
 
Could it be the exhaust bumping something?
 
Problem with the ECU? (wild guess)
 
Can cv ratlle like that. But why would it?
The vibration is common with Subarus with different CV specs on both sides, causing harmonic balancing vibrations when in Drive and the car is stopped but since yours is a proper bumping sound even at Park, it's not this.

By the way, below 500 RPM is very low as an idle speed. At that engine speed, you will actually have some knocking just like when you are lugging the engine with a manual transmission. Low RPM is just a symptom, though.
 
Yesterday drove about 300km trip to lakes and back. Changed injectors 2 times, with last pair was kinda ok still shakes on low revs but drives ok on higher speeds when speed is constant no error codes so could use cruise. Overtaking good enough power to maneuver. But its not happy when revs drops to 2 when driving starts kinda vibrate i can feel it, whe revs jumps at least 2.5 smooth ride again. So more speed smoother it drives. But again when shakes vibrates on higher speeds no error comes so it just drives there. So could be valve in that cyl2 not sur but could be.
Hearing some hiss sounds from under car when reving in parking not sure like leak in catalyst area or just some hiss sound from catalysts or smt but some sound is when reving more there. but no smell of exhaust at least not too bad that would be felt inside.
Will use like this now more and see what comes next.
Thinking if would be bad compression or bad valves would that be felt in driving like less power or smt. But it doesnt want to work smooth in low revs still so duno. Now i can change injectors like in 15 min time lol im pro haha. Did in parking lot faster then it took do fast shoping. But changing injectors does change how it drives so thats some weird stuff there. So yesterday trip was without error codes or they came on low revs slow speed areas and then went away themselfs on higher speeds. At those higher speeds car drives like nothing wrong with her good power too. Good mpg too now mpg improved for some reason too. I had it worse before all those stuff. So now its even better on fuel.

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But its not happy when revs drops to 2 when driving starts kinda vibrate i can feel it, whe revs jumps at least 2.5 smooth ride again.
Sounds similar to what was happening when I had a broken lead.. Have you replaced the leads?
 
Sounds similar to what was happening when I had a broken lead.. Have you replaced the leads?
Which leads? When i checked them on injectors and coils they where all showing voltages but that just when not moving them. I found on some leads that protective layer was damaged so i put some tape on those , and as i said when i put injector cover it works worse so something there could be about those leads but how to find problem.
And how to replace them anyway? They go there like in packs can i just cut them and connect new ones in middle or smt, do they sell leads for those sockets separate? I saw coil leads with plugs.
 
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