2006 Outback 3.0R 180kw VDC project

so new car , new project m new plans for it , and gathering new info what could be done witt it and choosing what fits me

what i bought
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how it looked in my yard next day
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changing inside and some outside bulbs to led's
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examples for myself how lift would look with my rims and how bumper cut would look
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so normal steps for me do lift at least as much as in that pic, and then maybe cut bumper
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car how its sits now, how +5cm would look and then +7cm wheel is in the air
would need bigger tires for better look there.
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checked front arches for rust and how it looks, and put some bitumen spray over there , and then put back that plastic cover back
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front grill plasti dipped to black
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how it looks in dark with some lights
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and made that hi lift on roof rack at last. just 2 bolts keeps it pretty strong i think. just not sure how to leave it like this on rain or make some cover like some water proof material cover that area where all those leavers are.
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drove later to test on petrol , went up to 140km/h. with that much lift i wouldnt go faster i think . getting some vibration on steering wheel but maybe thats because front axles start to virbate because of those angles too much lift maybe, vibrations starts at about 90km/h no need high speeds even. then at times it calms down then becomes more vibrating.
 
So did another test with torque app to see raw data and when im flooring pedal to ground that throttle goes just up to 78.8% . So why not to 100%?
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Video of that

And video after i decided to do another that infamous killing sound test as i thought that maybe car will perform differently. In the end there torquw raw data how it looks when i reverse and its just stalls there not spinning wheels.
 
And another upgrade to bike rack, now cups for tires they will sit there now secure. Will keep them in place with some rubber with hooks that i use in trunk. Lock will keep them secure and tight together. I bought that lock for hi lift too its fits both. Well in case someone would think to unbolt hi lift jack haha.
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Should finish that rear exhaust part, was missing some tube and connections to connect tube with tube,thought go to look for new ones , but then went to see at scrapyard, found this for 2 euros instead. My size, and 2 free connections that would cost a lot more new in shop
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so finished that mufler straight tube end with Remus end cap , scraped that ugly black paint too, it looks much better now
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and how it sounds

some nice scenes from last sand test
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and nice VDC work in reverse. not sure how that traction control works if when you get check engine and errors then lights come up that your TC is off too cruise off as well, but here it seems to be TC working here or its VDC without TC still does this good job . who knows ..
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and will see how i like this exhaust sound better or not must drive more and record it and listen from side , then will decide maybe that previous was better just cut near rear diff, now its removable so anytime i can just remove it , or put OEM rear mufflers back on . options its best thing to have options to your likings and not what they made for you.
 
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Adventure ready.. almost, just for now little laggy but it can take me to places still
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Wonder how my rear lights will be visiable to other drivers. It looks like they should be not blocked need to check in dark but should be fine.
 
Over here the number plate must be visible or a copy added to the bike rack.

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Ohh i forgot that ..i see your point there
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Should read our regulations i think we could drive with just plate in front but not sure if its still same. But its too much work to remove that plate everytime and place to new place .. hmm but i could make something there easy removable on that tube that i mount bike frame in center
Or mount it on roof rack. Thats visiable duno if height is in regulations where you can mount it like on roof rack..
 
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After driving some removed that rear muffler part because i just dont like how pronounce its sounds inside. Strange thing but without it its sounds queter then with that. So yh haha its some weird sound more like whining, just cut tube straight from resonator gives more lower bossy kinda sounds its much better and quieter.
 
still hunting my errors day to day trying different things finding new stuff thet i didint knew before thats best part and figuring out more and more about car and its smart ECU decisions.
maf looked like this ,not too bad maybe but cleaned it carefully some more. coil plugs lost those locks so now they came off while you driving making your car 5 cyl car or 4 cyl even. sounds terrible doesnt drive at all lol.
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still enjoying car just thinking it needs maybe little smaller wheels so it would be more happy with that torque on smaller ones, just idea doesnt know for sure but just my thinking .some say yes some say with that power larger wheels not problem, maybe but i want that more launch from low revs and maybe there larger tires doesnt play well there. but again others who put even larger tires on those maybe proved me wrong allready.
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I like the big wheels and they should be ok with the big engine. What tire size do you have ?
 
Its 225/65R17 so its 28.5'
Subaru recomends 225/55R17 for those, so mine are like 6.3% larger then they put on factory
 
The MAF sensor needs to be much cleaner than that. It is very sensitive, though, so make sure to use a proper MAF sensor cleaner.

This is what I use:
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A carb cleaner may be a bit too harsh on MAF sensors so anything similar is the way to go.

Regarding the connectors, they can be rather tricky. My brother has an experience on that when suddenly his SRX shook and he had to stop his car. It turned out to be a loose connection like yours.

Regarding tyre size, this YTer (
) put 29" ones on his 3.0 BH and when running, it looks sluggish like it runs on fluid drive mostly. With that size, the effective gearing is way off. Your tyre size is close to his but we can't really tell that the lag/sluggish problem with your BP is related to the tyres until we get 100% throttle when floored.

Do you still get P0302? Cheers.
 
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yes P0302 now mostly separate but sometimes together with P0304 so both cyls on same side 2 and 4.
about throttle others with same engine said thats they have same throttle just up to 80% no more. just with some tuning reflashing ECM they achieving 100%. so then throttle is not problem well not main at least.
what i still can do change fuel filter. dont know what else to blame, clean injectors properly maybe with carb cleaner and try again.
i wonder about tires now even more , is that really such big impact . i still have those that i bought car with, but they smaller then stock even not sure why previous owner bought that size but they just 225/50 . and imagine will look funny with my lift then. but could be good test does tires matter so much.
still my laggy launch should be from something else there , maybe tires would help spin wheels better but that sluginess is from something else.
and is it really needed that maf special cleaner for it ? i mean i saw what it is so clening it with something soft and wet doesnt work ? i think i cleaned it kinda nice there.
 
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Hmmm. I would give the injectors more cleaning. The process is not expensive but if injector cleaning is what was done before the codes came, cleaning them again may be a good idea. For reference, when I had some vibrations on the BP, it took me 3 bottles of injector cleaner, 1 each for a full tank, so three full tanks, before I was able to properly clean the injector to remove the vibration.

What product do you use?

Yes, the MAF is extremely sensitive and the standard carb cleaner, which is a gum cutter is to harsh for it. The MAF cleaner is also a gum cutter but with components that are safer for the MAF itself.
 
Thing is that was injector cleaner fluid in petrol so maybe it cleaned fuel system but clogged injectors though then why its called injector cleaner. So hmm not sure.
I would remove injectors themself and clean them like separatelly.
I used 4 bottles allready but i used that on like half tank every one not on full tank.
But yes before using this cleaner i didint had those vibrations.
Other thing when i removed injectors those rubbers where rly hard there i didint changed them as didint had nee ones so just put those back. But they wont leak or anything. So they shouldnt like suck air or smt there because hard rubber rings .

Before i changed spark plugs it where bosch r6 iridium ones . Not sure are those better ot worse then ngk but those bosch ones that thicker center part then ngk. Guess car was running just fine on those bosch ones as well. When i bought car guy said he changed plugs so i believe it as plugs where still looking in good condition.
Will change now to those small tires and see what that will do. With that maybe will need to lower lift as it will look just silly i think
 
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Yes, most injector cleaners are supposed to be mixed with fuel in the tank. Those cleaners are good when the use is regular. Based on your account, the cleaner may have dislodged deposits and clogged the injector.

If you haven't done manual injector cleaning without the ultrasonic cleaner, here is a good video:

EDIT: Replaced the video with a better one.
 
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Yes i will try that cleaning method i guess.
Back to lol tires. They look weird there do they?
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So i bought fuel filter yes im so smart do i... lets see
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Allready had suspision that its not from this unit that fuel filter...lets see how clean petrol is inside that plastic box, and see does that filter goes there
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So no its not but what there on other side ... another fuel pump ? Ohh lol

But now i know ..live and learn. Bought diagnostic cable for lpg so will try that tomorrow see what it will show and will it work.
Ohh and guy sells cable with programs and drivers on disc. Yes disc. So what laptops can take discs? Well not mine . Lol
Good i have at least some old unit still working there that can take disc.
 
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