2006 Outback 3.0R 180kw VDC project

so new car , new project m new plans for it , and gathering new info what could be done witt it and choosing what fits me

what i bought

how it looked in my yard next day

changing inside and some outside bulbs to led's

examples for myself how lift would look with my rims and how bumper cut would look

so normal steps for me do lift at least as much as in that pic, and then maybe cut bumper

car how its sits now, how +5cm would look and then +7cm wheel is in the air
would need bigger tires for better look there.

checked front arches for rust and how it looks, and put some bitumen spray over there , and then put back that plastic cover back

front grill plasti dipped to black

how it looks in dark with some lights

 

[ABFoz]

Maybe it's time to have it scanned. Sometimes, scanners get all the pending error codes coming from intermittent faults.

You can also have a look at your wiring loom connectors. I remember having intermittent errors on the GG and after using the service manual, we found out that the main wiring loom connector was just loose, causing all the faults.

Regarding the reversing issue, it may be an issue regarding your stall speed, gear ratio and/or fluid performance. If you think that it is caused by the VDC and if it's an emergency get unstuck situation, you can always pull out the ABS fuse to disable VDC and other safety electronics, giving your right foot total control of the power delivery to the torque converter. Since you have a rear vLSD, your BP will just function like my SG when the fuse is pulled.

 

[scalman]

Shame i dont remember when its all started with that reverse not going thing was it ok with those smaller tires or not.
Well its problem because most times im with error doing it and with thag error tc is off anyway.
I still thinking to check wires that comes to ignition core but cant find where they coming from. Need to look more online for that. Because funny thing when i just changed that core to another and connected wires to it it fixed that error was gone itself and all was good until i started driving, so why is that i wonder, maybe something bad is coming from that wire that messes up things there.

 

[ABFoz]

Yes, it can be a pain but when solved, it will be very satisfying.

The service manual usually helps in solving ignition issues. They have resistance values there. Sometimes, when ignition components are still functioning but are showing abnormal resistance, they are usually faulty already. It's best, though, to scan for the fault codes and use the service manual's instructions on diagnosing the faults.

 

[scalman]

for better mood wanted now to try make hitch reciever bike holder . took me many hrs to figure out because lots measured and cuted and redone and end result is just pretty simple really. still have to figure out how to secure bikes as they are mountain bikes and have that wide frame

 

[Ben Up North]

Nice! what are you going to pad it with?

 

[ABFoz]

Man, DIYs are truly satisfying. Good job!

 

[scalman]

yh i looked at what they sell similar and they all made for normal frames like city bikes with standard size tubes not mountain bikes with those huge frames there , so i must rething that , because this wont fit me

because i found that i have just right size hole between frames there

so its even holding there all ready on its own and its almost perfectly centered too, i just nned to see what i could use there to tight those frames to that tube. didint find solution yet on my local shops i searched to something , still not sure , U bolt maybe would fit , but i need some fat rubber on it and then drill holes in that tube and tighten that frame

nothing else come to mind at least from what i can buy or what would make sense. dont wanna do anything plastic there .
something like this at least.

 

[Ben Up North]

Pretty tedious to attach and remove the bikes with that though.
Some friends of mine had a great little device for bikes like yours (and mine). basically an adjustable length bar that went between the headstem and seat post. then you could hang the bike off a 'normal' carrier.
like this:

From Amazon

 

[Kevin]

I used an old "Crooklock" steering wheel lock to hang bikes like that; lost the keys years ago!

 

[scalman]

Hmm what if i just use straps and strap them to there tight, because both bikes has different frame angles and different thinkness i could just take one thing and bolt them both together.
Buying other things to able to put bikes there makes no sense to my diy guts , then it makes no point to do diy might just bought something .

And im not sure like how secure bikes should be they woyld move some from side to side like swing towards trunk door maybe so that strao to roof rack would be like security too. Because im not like totally positive for my welding i mean i guess its ok but what if something get loose or brake.

 

[scalman]

Didint liked that so duno what to do for now...must think other simple way there. But they cannot move to sides , or i should just build platform for wheels then nothing would move, but i wanted simple thing, didint thought those frames will be so much pain to figure out

 

[scalman]

Best finding of the year... hello whats that?

That black wire is taking something from there but who connected it and why? And what goes by that wire and when? Is it 12v or smt else?
That same 2 cilinder that i having error from.

 

[scalman]

Isolated that thought fixed it maybe. Started engine , its not appear on just engine working , started driving and same error again. But im curious that wire was naked with voltage there before thats crazy. But nothing changed when i isolated it still... hmmm

 

[Ben Up North]

Buying other things to able to put bikes there makes no sense to my diy guts ,

I was assuming you' would make something similar if it interested you...

 

[ABFoz]

Best finding of the year... hello whats that?

That black wire is taking something from there but who connected it and why? And what goes by that wire and when? Is it 12v or smt else?
That same 2 cilinder that i having error from.

That's a bypass. I don't have the schematics of the EZ30 coil but that black wire isn't supposed to be there, at all. Maybe the previous owner or his mechanic tried to mitigate something instead of replacing the part. There may be a problem a bit further up the loom or it's the connector itself.

 

[scalman]

So you think that wire coming to coil , as i was thinking that it goes to something.
Well that should be plus, or its ecu then. I just found xt turbo model schematics andn
There middle wire is ecu and i checked mine middle is ground, so my blue must be ecu and that one should be plus then.
Will look more for that scheme then
Got it

So pin1 black yellow - ecm
Pin2 black white - ground
Pin3 blue with black - voltage.
I guess my connector was changed or smt because colors dont match but all matters that they connected right way.
So what then that extra wire doing. Its kinda hard to follow it as it goes into that maze later and i cant even see it after.
Wondering does that coil pack wiring have connection somewhere or its just goes straight into sources
Ohh and which is pin1 on connector i mean how to read connector

 

[scalman]

raw data info from torque pro while driving. if anyone would saw some problem in those numbers pls let me know. because i still dont know what to do with that cyl 2 missfire error.

 

[ABFoz]

Does it throw any live or any pending codes?

 

[scalman]

Now allways cyl 2 missfire and then maybe cyl 4 missfire with that and sometimes another for too rich fuel mix and too lean mix sometimes too. And car doesnt drive from stop it lags feels like its choking on low revs just whe it jumps to higher revs its start going, but in city on slow speed it feels like it works bad on low revs .
Plugs changed
Coil changed 2 times on cyl 2 . Same thing.
Someone told me could be just catalyst clogged or even that resonator. As it feels like engine cant breath.
Vacum seems ok. Throtle body cleaned. So what else can cause that?
Not sure how to test those catalysts if i disconect them will to be too loud to drive in city at least. But would be good thing to test if car would do better without catalysts or bypass them
And thats why car is dying in reverse because it cant make that fuel mix right on low revs so no power there at all. Uses more fuel with that as well im sure.
Many people removing those catalyst here around in russia and places to just let that engine breath. Just those o2 sensors need to be in that exhaust flow still

 

[ABFoz]

Hmmm. Have you tested the coil pack harnesses for continuity or resistance? I do not have the values but there might be a chance that the harnesses might have been cracked or broken, which is why the previous owner bypassed one of the wires.

Also, I noticed your short-term fuel trim 1 (STFT1) jumps from 0 to -25%. Before removing your cat converter, please check whether or not the o2 sensors are properly plugged-in, loose, dirty or are reversed. The sensors are showing really low voltages and are not balancing accordingly.

Try to clean your MAF sensor, as well, using a proper MAF sensor cleaner.

If you can do the smoke test, check if you have vacuum leaks. You can also do that by listening to hissing sounds. Cheers.