What have you done to your car today?

Changing p/s cv joint as the inner joint has failed (boots intact which is funny) and the d/s outer joint which failed as well, same thing boot intact and play in the joint.
 
p/s cv is an original that i kept as a spare which had the inner boot changed once already, i put it back in after tearing a boot on the new one i replaced it with. So it was worn already had some play but wasn't making noise the lift just made it noisy.

the d/s outer i had a look, looks like the grease has broken down. I'll repack it and see how it gos. The new ones I'd bought are outside of warranty now (100,000k) not really particularly impressed but shouldn't complain for $80 each new.

Going to subabits to get some secondhand good cv's, I'll repack them and put on new boots. Don't want to spend too much I'm not sure if i'll be keeping blinky at this stage.
 
Finished pounding the fender back out, and sent it back for the alignment shop to take another crack at it...

Because they didn't do it the first time.

Luckily, it's back to perfectly awesome handling again, so I'll be taking it up on some of the seasonal roads tomorrow to give it a good shakedown, then it's back to the H6 efforts!
 
My old rubber pedals were a little worse for wear, so I whacked these on for now :raz:
I don't know how long they'll last, but what can you loose for $10 :raspberry:

zvqa.jpg


Regards
Mr Turbo
 
No mate, no drilling required :p
They just sit on top with 4x clips on the back for each :)

Regards
Mr Turbo
 
I got screwed...

IMG_0295_zps151372a4.jpg


...and in the tire swapping process, discovered the passenger side, outer CV boot has exploded.:sad: (I knew it was coming, just didn't know when)
 
Thats not good to hear carljwnc :o but better to find it now than when out & about somewhere.

Regards
Mr Turbo
 
mr turbo said:
Thats not good to hear carljwnc :o but better to find it now than when out & about somewhere.

Regards
Mr Turbo
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Axle will probably have to wait a few weeks, should be fine, and I'm just going to replace the whole thing. Might put a new boot on the old one and keep it around for an emergency spare.

Tire is fixed already, happened in a parking lot, that was good.:) And I also took the opportunity to throw on the black steelies that I bought from E.J. a while back, thanks E.J.:ebiggrin: Tires are oversized, nice and comfy, the handling is not so great, but they look cool.:cool:
 
$1.38 head light lens polish, tube of whitening tooth paste.

Before:
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After:
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Is it as good as a $30-50 restoration kit or an $80-100 professional job, NO!!! Worked pretty well though, real test in a short while on my drive to work.
 
I should have thought of that Carl! When I used to restore 1950's classic cars I used to use toothpaste as an abrasive for fine polishing of woodwork and metal.
Just not accustomed to plastic !!
 
Replaced the air filter, fuel filter and pollen filter in Red today.

The air filter was covered in a thick layer of mud and underneath the mud was some ancient dirt that looked like it came from an Egyptian tomb:poke:.Probably hasn't been changed in a while. I have no idea how any air was meant to get through it. Lucky no water got through it.

Anyway, the car feels noticeably more powerful:ebiggrin: and way, way more responsive in lower rpm:discomonkey:. So it was well worth the money of a new air filter and I'd recommend others to change their air filters if it hasn't been done for a while.
 
i do the same thing carl, but i start with the dremel / toothpaste. Then finish off with 2500 wet/dry and brasso. Takes about 30min a head light but you can get them almost clear again,
 
Starter motor died over the weekend. Ordered a new one from subabits and it should arrive today.

One annoying thing though: I ran out of fuel on the Hume Hwy on Monday, and I thought I still had about 10 litres left in the tank. the fuel light had come on, as it usually does when I have used about 45 litres. RACV gave me 10 litres to get me going. I got to a fuel station soion after and filled the car, and it only took 40 litres. This means that I was right in thinking that the 60 litre tank still had 10 litres in it.

Bloody annoying really. I don't expect to get to use the last 5 litres, but having 10 litres in your tank that you can't use is a PITA: that's 16.6% of the tank you cant use.

Admittedly, with mixed driving instead of highway driving you get to use more of that because cornering puts more fuel in the swill pot, but highway driving is where you want the added range.

I had the fuel tank refurbished and put in new Walbro fuel pump just over a year ago.
 
That's odd, on the highway, my tank can't get the last 3.5-4 litres. Never had a problem at 10 litres
 
Dulagarl said:
the fuel light had come on, as it usually does when I have used about 45 litres.
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I always fill up at empty on the dial which is about 40ltr~, I've put 48ltrs in once and one other time ran out without a light warning. I'm convinced my fuel light doesn't work now if yours is comming on at around 45ltrs
 
havachat said:
I should have thought of that Carl! When I used to restore 1950's classic cars I used to use toothpaste as an abrasive for fine polishing of woodwork and metal.
Just not accustomed to plastic !!
Click to expand...

It worked out very well, and the difference in light output is amazing.:ebiggrin: (why didn't I do it sooner?)

idw said:
i do the same thing carl, but i start with the dremel / toothpaste. Then finish off with 2500 wet/dry and brasso. Takes about 30min a head light but you can get them almost clear again,
Click to expand...

Might take it to this level next time, I'd heard about the toothpaste thing, here I believe, and thought I'd see how well it went. I also only spent about 15min total doing it.
 
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