What have you done to your car today?

Beigewagon said:
Looks like the bullbar pushed back onto the bumper, and also the vertical radiator supports at the bottom end left corner. I think I will have to remove the bullbar and bumper as well as the radiator to straighten it out. Radiator is not leeking, but is twisted, and fouled on the viscous fan (removed with Nachaluva's help on the track side) limped home on only the thermo fan.
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I'm glad you have that other radiator to put in.

I wonder if there's any way to reinforce the bullbar support so it doesnt happen again?

taza said:
Almost lost Davidov's Outback off the jack stands last night when trying to install the new rear struts. God is it hard to get it in with 3" of strut lift..... the rattle gun makes life so much easier though :biggrin:
I was holding the roof basket and the wall to stop it from going over for a few mins until we could decide how to stop it from falling and get it stable again..
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I hope there was no-one underneath at the time!
Quick thinking Taza :iconwink:

carljwnc said:
Dodged a bullet, millions of them actually. There was a storm coming in and I was in the garage listening to the thunder, when I started hearing these infrequent snapping/popping sounds. Hastily, I rearranged the garage a bit (car is not normally parked there) and ran inside and grabbed the wife's keys. Moments after pulling Nubaru into the garage the hail hit HARD!!!

I know some of you will be able to appreciate this.:iconwink: And thankfully, YotaRu's thick skin appears to have suffered no damage.
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Very glad to hear. There's a lot of hail happening around the world recently :confused:

Species said:
had a go at wiring up some spotties but I ran into some trouble with finding the correct wire to run to the switch in the dash.... I tried to take one from the head lamps but they were all doing things I wasn't expecting. I found one that worked with the high beam as desired... but if I leave the spotty switch on and turn on the head lights on the stick the spotty comes back on when everything else is off. Weird, no?
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Do you realise Subies have positive switching so everything is weird lol?

This is what I did on my Foz:
foresterheadlightrewire.png


Hope this helps
 
Species said:
had a go at wiring up some spotties but I ran into some trouble with finding the correct wire to run to the switch in the dash.... I tried to take one from the head lamps but they were all doing things I wasn't expecting. I found one that worked with the high beam as desired... but if I leave the spotty switch on and turn on the head lights on the stick the spotty comes back on when everything else is off. Weird, no?
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Species,

you will need to take two wires from the back of the lights to switch the spotties. The Subie headlights are negative switched. Hi and Lo beam will always have 12 v at the back of the globes. The switch will connect the Earth to whichever beam is selected to complete the circiut.


I will need to check on my car to see which two wires, I cant recall just now.

Beigewagon.
 
Just noticed NL and I posted opposite polatiry switching at the same time. Not sure of the Forries, but the L-Series is definitly Neg switched, ie the load (light) has a dirrect connection to 12v via a fuse, and the circiut is completed when the swicth is operated, be it horn, interior light, or headlights. It just makes it harder to follow the logic. I need to draw it out on paper to make proper sense of it.

Beigewagon.
 
OK looking at NL diagram. The driving lights are configured positive switched, but the headlights are negative switched. (My car is the same) The trick is to find the correct two wires of the back of one of the headlights to give a 12v differential at the right time to energise the coil of the relay for the driving lights only when you have High beam, and not at any other time.

Hope some of that made sense. I will check my in a day or two, when I get the chance, seeing as they should be the same.

Beigewagon.
 
carljwnc said:
Dodged a bullet, millions of them actually. There was a storm coming in and I was in the garage listening to the thunder, when I started hearing these infrequent snapping/popping sounds. Hastily, I rearranged the garage a bit (car is not normally parked there) and ran inside and grabbed the wife's keys. Moments after pulling Nubaru into the garage the hail hit HARD!!!
.
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My mate with his gen1 Liberty RS would have gladly driven it out into the open... he desperately wants his insurance to pay the "book" value apprx $7000 where no one will pay over $5000. :D
 
Oh I just saw your replies! thanks guys! I talked to someone who owned a suby and suggested negative switching was the reason. so there you go. Thanks a bunch for that wiring diagram it helped made sense even thought it was really small ;)
 
Species said:
Oh I just saw your replies! thanks guys! I talked to someone who owned a suby and suggested negative switching was the reason. so there you go. Thanks a bunch for that wiring diagram it helped made sense even thought it was really small ;)
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Only just read now...

Yes we've all done it :raspberry: Silly Japanese company Subaru is.
 
Beigewagon said:
Just noticed NL and I posted opposite polatiry switching at the same time. Not sure of the Forries, but the L-Series is definitly Neg switched, ie the load (light) has a dirrect connection to 12v via a fuse, and the circiut is completed when the swicth is operated, be it horn, interior light, or headlights. It just makes it harder to follow the logic. I need to draw it out on paper to make proper sense of it.
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I dont know why but all the literature calls it "positive switched" even though its the negative that is in the switch. I guess they just wanted to confuse us lol :rolleyessarcastic:

The Foz and L are both definitely positive switched, ie, the positive wire goes to the lights and the negative wire goes to the switch.

BTW, I wired the driving lights relay with the more conventional negative switching as I'm putting on HIDs and I think they need to be wired that way.
 
I picked up a used Subaxtreme sump guard. Apparently they take 10 mins to install... not when it's secondhand. I needed a 1m torque wrench to loosen the nuts and bolts on the car. They were tight as a nuns...

It looks like the previous owner had bashed it a couple of times. The black angle piece that attaches to the car just wouldn't fit. It was quite deformed and I ended up having to elongate one of the holes nearly a centimetre.

It didn't come with any instructions so I contacted Subaxtreme to ask some advice. I haven't heard anything from them in over a week. When I was originally going to get one brand new from them, they contacted me in less than 24hrs. Funny what the mighty dollar will do.

Anyway can't complain as it was quite a bit cheaper than a new one. Just waiting to hit the beach again.

 
I took my Justy front hubs down to my machine shop and had the center bore pins shaved down to fit inside my new 14" steel wheels. The new wheels and tires should give me an additional 1.23 inches of clearance, not a lot, but every bit counts on the little guy ;)

I also finally have my Flickr up and running, so expect more progress/pics to be made on my Journal :)

-Jamie
 
I bought some HID's for the WRX. They go in this weekend. Maybe- just maybe- I'll be able to see where I'm going at night. Will advise how they perform
 
Did the oil pump on my ea-81. Good fun! Next up is the pan gasket and then the valdez should hold oil long enough to warrent changing it regularly. Pan gasket looks a lot easier than the pump too.
 
Installed a new, non-OEM cabin air filter in my new (to me) MY06 Forester. Purchased a FRAM branded with "Fresh Breeze," part no. CF10377, which was said to match my Fozza.

Installation was easy: remove eight screws to remove the glove box, and open a little trap door that conceals the cabin air filter. However, it turns out that the Subaru filter comes in a plastic frame, while the FRAM did not and was slightly smaller. So I cut the filter part out of the old filter, and retained the plastic frame. Combined with the old plastic frame, the new filter was a perfect fit.

The FRAM filter is much higher quality than the Subaru. It has active coal and baking soda to remove odors, and the folds in the filter go much deeper, giving it about 5x the surface area as the OEM. And the FRAM was US$15 on Amazon.com, while the Subaru filter would have been US$ 30 or more.

I took some pictures of both the new Forester and the filter installation, which I will post as soon as I have time to start a Member Journal.
 
Picked up a cutting wheel from my buddy and started getting the Justy all tightened up for camping/wheeling tonight :)

-Jamie
 
Crushed the tip of a valve stem on a rocky track over the weekend, so I replaced it. Used the old jack-under-the-towbar method to break the bead, took a lot of effort!
 
Gidday SJM

sjm said:
Crushed the tip of a valve stem on a rocky track over the weekend, so I replaced it. Used the old jack-under-the-towbar method to break the bead, took a lot of effort!
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That's one of the reasons I bought two sets of metal valve caps - one set for Roo2, other for the trailer.

It still might not prevent this from happening, but does make them more resistant to damage.

Thanks for the tip on the jack/tow bar method. I had never thought of that.

Last time I had to break a bead by hand without tyre fitting/removal gear(late 1960s), it was on a split rim off a C49 Jeep. The tyre had been on the rim for around 20~25 years. We used a ten ton truck on one side, and jacked the tractor up on its blade with the hydraulics on the other side. The tyre eventually let go of the rim ...

Even with proper tyre workshop gear (non-hydraulic), getting tyres off Mini rims was horrendous (original "real" Mini - 10" rims ... ).
 
Ratbag said:
Thanks for the tip on the jack/tow bar method. I had never thought of that.
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For anyone else that's not familiar with this method, here's how to do it. You'll need to stand on the opposite side of the tyre to stop it flipping, so don't push it too far under the vehicle.

aIMG_1968.jpg
 
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