Install Sunyee Cree 126W light bar - SG II Forester

It appears that four of the six wires attached to the genuine Subaru driving light switch are used.

The light bar loom has three wires to the cabin switch - red, black, white.

The Subaru switch loom has six - blue/brown stripe, green/black stripe (both of which appear to do nothing ... ), orange/black stripe (-> white), yellow/black stripe (-> red), black/white stripe (-> black), purple/silver bars (-> instrument panel light circuit via existing fog light terminal).

The yellow and orange power the ON LED on the switch as well. The black wire is the earth. All three need to be connected in order to trigger the relay, and turn on the light bar.

After a messy day, I might get to trying this in the car tomorrow!
 
Just wire it all i and tap the wire from the headlight if you've got the correct loom, the light force loom has everything you need right on it, it's pretty simple when you've got the correct wire. I'll check which wire it is tomorrow

As for the switch i just drilled a hole in the blank plug and put the lightforce switch in it.

There's also the lazy way of just getting a big relay and running it inline with the high beam power, except for the fire danger and if the relay goes you loose a headlight.
 
That's pretty much what I'm planning to do, Id.

The main thing to avoid is drawing the power for the load through the light amperage wiring of the switching circuit (10+A for a 126W light bar!).

Today just got completely out of hand!
 
idw said:
Just wire it all i and tap the wire from the headlight if you've got the correct loom, the light force loom has everything you need right on it, it's pretty simple when you've got the correct wire. I'll check which wire it is tomorrow
Click to expand...

I followed the exact steps in the light force guide and ends up the light bar can be turned on in different scenarios except in high beam!

https://lightforce.com/assets/Instruction%20Sheets/Wiring_Harness.October12_web.pdf

I have tapped into both high beam wires with the same outcome as well :rolleyes:
 
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I never said follow the instructions ;) . Has the Sg got those stupid separate low/hi-beams?
 
In that case, do some probing with a test light (if you don't have one take use a tail/stop light some short bits of wire and some electrical tape.

1)Start probing the headlight connector to find which earth the high beam is using

2) Use this earth to connect to the energizing coil of the relay, at this point you can either use the power into the high beam, or any other power that's either constant or on with accessory. Just remember you've got to make a loop in the same circuit as the high beam after the bulb for the relay to work how you want it to.

There's no reason really not to, in the SG's case just wire the relay in parallel to the highbeam, IF you've the correct relay to do this and make good connections. Just don't use those stupid piggyback joiners, use the right size crimps or solder if your desperate.

Ratbag said:
The main thing to avoid is drawing the power for the load through the light amperage wiring of the switching circuit (10+A for a 126W light bar!)
Click to expand...

Well that's the whole point of using a relay on a wiring loom, so you can power the light bar directly from the battery, the relay is just a big switch...Just don't get the wires back the front :lol:
 
^ I do have a pretty accurate multimeter.

Will that do ... :iconwink: :rotfl:
 
From that wiring diagram earlier, you want to connect 4 from the F7 or F24 to the negative of the relay, and the power for the relay at some point after the fuse on the wiring light harness before the switch. On a narva style relay, thats connect 30 to 85 and 86 to 4 on the f7/f23 connector, then use 30 to 87 to switch the light bar and earth directly to the chassis/bat

normal-4pin.png


clear as mud? Just remember to check the polarity of 4 from the highbeam is actually negative first.
 
idw said:
In that case, do some probing with a test light (if you don't have one take use a tail/stop light some short bits of wire and some electrical tape.

1)Start probing the headlight connector to find which earth the high beam is using
Click to expand...

Done this too...and tap the brown wire to the negative (and the positive one too) but... :furious:
 
idw said:
From that wiring diagram earlier, you want to connect 4 from the F7 or F24 to the negative of the relay, and the power for the relay at some point after the fuse on the wiring light harness before the switch. On a narva style relay, thats connect 30 to 85 and 86 to 4 on the f7/f23 connector, then use 30 to 87 to switch the light bar and earth directly to the chassis/bat

normal-4pin.png


clear as mud? Just remember to check the polarity of 4 from the highbeam is actually negative first.
Click to expand...

mmm...will need to do this...
 
Pull the headlight connector off, stick your black probe i the number 4 spot on the connector and your red probe on the bat, turn on the high beams and see if you've got voltage. if you do it'll work
 
idw said:
Pull the headlight connector off, stick your black probe i the number 4 spot on the connector and your red probe on the bat, turn on the high beams and see if you've got voltage. if you do it'll work
Click to expand...

Ok thaks for the tips... will need to pull the headlight connector for this when the car is available. It's my missus's...
 
I have established (on my car) that breaking into the headlight earth wire at the high beam light doesn't work. The light bar works on both high and low beam with this connection method.

It appears that the break-in must occur AFTER the high beam light switch, and before the earthing point for that particular circuit.

Now to identify that circuit at the steering column end of things ... grrr :yell: :furious:.

None of this was helped by my choice of an earthing point for the relay that tested fine (0 Ohms resistance after installation), then promptly became 349K Ohms when I tried to test circuit without using any lighting circuit at all (i.e. the light bar relay switched directly from the battery using the supplied switch).

For a bit, I thought I had blown up the light bar ...
 
Ratbag said:
I have established (on my car) that breaking into the headlight earth wire at the high beam light doesn't work. The light bar works on both high and low beam with this connection method.
Click to expand...

Thank you Ratbag...I thought I had done it incorrectly as electronic is not really my strength but this was what I found...

For a bit, I thought I had blown up the light bar ...
Click to expand...


Oh no!:cry:
 
OK. Logic dictates that the switch wire running back to the light bar relay must be connected from the earth wire between the high beam switch and its earthing point.

Below are a number of photos of the underside of the dash in my car, and the various connectors to the steering column switches.

All much the same, but some give a clearer view of the wires and colours of particular connectors than others.

Is somebody able to identify for me which of these is the headlight/indicator stalk connector, and even better, which of the wires is the high beam earth wire on its way from the switch to its earthing point? Links to higher resolution photos under each photo.

E-510_JAK_2015-_6258289_Ew.jpg


https://canopuscomputing.com.au/gallery2/d/18120-2/E-510_JAK_2015-_6258289_Ew.jpg

E-510_JAK_2015-_6258288_Ew.jpg


https://canopuscomputing.com.au/gallery2/d/18105-2/E-510_JAK_2015-_6258288_Ew.jpg

E-510_JAK_2015-_6258287_Ew.jpg


https://canopuscomputing.com.au/gallery2/d/18102-2/E-510_JAK_2015-_6258287_Ew.jpg

E-510_JAK_2015-_6258286_Ew.jpg


https://canopuscomputing.com.au/gallery2/d/18099-2/E-510_JAK_2015-_6258286_Ew.jpg

E-510_JAK_2015-_6258285_Ew.jpg


https://canopuscomputing.com.au/gallery2/d/18096-2/E-510_JAK_2015-_6258285_Ew.jpg

Thanks in advance for any help with this ...
 
Pm me Ratbag, I can probably drop by on the way home from work Saturday and give you a hand. Which side of Melbourne are you on? Tap from the engine bay, not under the dash.
 
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