Install Sunyee Cree 126W light bar - SG II Forester

thanks for the comparison shots.

As you say, definitely an open/off-road thing. That spread is great for twisty road / bush driving.

I spot a green outback !
 
Happy to do so, Duncan. None of my other cameras are capable of taking meaningful photos even at far less than ISO 12,800 ...

At $800 just a few years ago for this same light bar, it wasn't even on my radar.
At AUD$82.95 shipped, who could pass it up?

You are absolutely right about the wide angle - 60 deg. up, down and sideways! And there are 12 of them each side. There are 18x 30 deg. ones in the centre that should go a long, long way up the road too :biggrin:.
 
You know what Ratbag,

It works :woohoo::woohoo::woohoo:

I finally managed to follow your wiring diagram to install the light in my Forester and it can now light up only in HIGH BEAM! :bling::bling::bling:
 
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Sunyee light bar on 2011 Outback

Many thanks to those who helped this newcomer install a light bar on a newly acquired 2011 Outback. Like most, I struggled with the negative switching thing, but thanks to all the forum posts, and especially the reference to the Ironman 4X4 resource on negative switching, I worked it out.
Using only the relay and cabin switch supplied with the light bar, a bit more red and black 4mm wire, cable protection and a bit of soldering insulated with heat shrink tube, my installation worked first time - without any weird collateral results.
Basically, the hard part was wiring the switch: In the end, I just crimped the black wire from the switch to the WHITE wire at the LH high beam plug, and the red wire from the switch to the GREEN wire at the LH high beam plug.
The white wire from the switch is already attached to the relay.
The red wire with the in-line fuse went to the positive battery terminal.
The other red wire from the relay went to the red wire from the light bar.
The black wire from the light bar went to the black wire from the relay and then to the negative battery terminal via the (shorter) black wire.

Installing the cabin switch was done via the large diamond-shaped grommet that fills the clutch master cylinder hole and then around to the dash on the RH side of the steering wheel (attached by a stick on velcro pad).

The light bar is just installed on a Repco number plate mount (with some extra reinforcing).

Anyway, it all works well and I will try to put the photos up later on.

Cheers again for the help.
 
Welcome d64 - our great members do put some bloody useful information up here don't they - well done everyone!
 
Gidday Dicko

Glad that some of this was of use to you, and :welcome: to the ORS forum.

My problem was the way the supplied relay with mine was wired, having both negative wires jumpered together inside the relay.
 
Thanks again, Ratbag. Think mine was exactly the same as yours, but it is working as it should and only coming on with HB when I have the cabin switch on. Of course, if it explodes in a ball of fire, I might have done something wrong. Great little product though and I only did this because I had already fitted one to an EF Falcon (in about 30 minutes all-up) with fantastic results.
BTW, being referred to as a "junior member" is a really nice change.
 
Haha ...

I'm a very 'senior' member - 69 y.o. next birthday ...
Almost a founding member of SOFA (Silly Old Farts Association) ... :iconwink: :lildevil:.

BTW, you can embed actual images from your gallery here; e.g.

CRsQjkf.jpg
 
Would imagine it's just like the SH, I tapped into the positive wire for the high beam globe right at the headlight and ran that to the switch, then switch to the relay like a positively switched diagram



 
As I said a few posts ago, I reckon that 99% of my problems were caused by the crappy relay that came with my light bar :puke:.

Things just got further compounded for me because I kept going with it instead of chucking that stupid relay away at step one ... :cry:.

Still, what I ended up doing works fine, and is relatively simple once I worked it out - that bit was really painful!

Why Subaru and other makers persist with switching the ground wire is a deep mystery to me. Seems downright dangerous, as the circuit is always live even when switched OFF!

Maybe I'm just used to live side switching, having grown up with it, but I think not.
 
After about 4 years of super bright night driving, my headlights mod decided to play up just before my big 8 Deserts Challenge. What timing lol. I still haven't worked out what is wrong so I've gone back to the stock setup with Osram +60% bulbs, It's not bad, I don't think I'll try to fix it, I was never 100% happy with relying on so many relays for something so critical as headlights.
 
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