Gidday Folks

Guess I should start a journal. Seems a goodly system of keeping this stuff organised ... :poke: :lol:.

Anyway, I have fitted the OEM roof bars and Rola basket to Roo2 in the last couple of days.


E-30_JAK_2012-_4037410_Ew.jpg



Took it for a spin into town today on the Nepean Highway.

From about 70 km/h, it started to purr.

By about 80 km/h, the purr had become a more of a roar ... :( :(.

This will drive me NUTS, in short order ... Fortunately, it is my intention to fit the basket to the lid on my rebuilt trailer, where it should be out of the wind, and the noise should be well behind me ....

Will keep you posted about all this ... :iconwink: ;) :raspberry:
 
Gidday Dave

It would probably be able to be fitted as a force fit. The gap between the top of the back seats and the blind housing is 15 mm. The cargo barrier is 20 mm thick.

Does your MY07 have the adjustable rake rear seats like SWMBO's 2009 SH? That makes a huge difference.

The MY06 only has a single position for locking. Hers has three.
 
Ratbag,

The 07 has a single setting for the back seats.

I haven’t measured the distance between the back seat and the blind mount but when it is all in there I have about 2-3mm at the edges clearance and no rattles. When I fitted the cargo barrier there was a slight bow in it - distortion from the manufacturing so I persuaded it to be a bit straighter to get the clearance in the middle.



It seems the difference is that I have mounted my barrier slightly further forward that yours is - probably caused by the modification to the barrier and the custom brackets I was forced to make to get around the low roof height caused by the sunroof.
 
^ Dave, there simply isn't room in mine. The gap between the seat tops and the blind right across is no more than 15 mm.

WHOOPS ... :o :redface:

How did Ambrose Bierce define "Positive"?
"Mistaken; at the top of one's voice." ...

I just tried the bloody thing after your insistence that it does fit.

You're right, it flaming well does!!
Whale oil
Beef hooked ...

The frame fits beside the backs of the rear seats ... leaving plenty of room!

IMG-20140411-00096_Er.jpg


Melbourne-20140411-00097_Er.jpg


Melbourne-20140411-00098_Er.jpg


Melbourne-20140411-00099_Er.jpg


However, I still intend to build a shelf in there. Far more practical and useful than the cargo blind.

What this revelation (to me) does mean is that I can buy and use a cactus s/h cargo blind holder as the basis. It would have been the hardest part to fabricate.

So thanks very much for your input - extremely valuable ... :ebiggrin: :biggrin:.
 
That's gold! Apparently your original persuasion must have been too gentle RB.... it's all in "the touch"!

I have to agree about the uselessness of these blinds. I seem forever moving them out of the car and back again as they are of "no fixed abode"... and in the road ALL the time.

Best regards,
 
Ratbag,

That is good at least I have done one thing that is usefull today. I reckon the shelf is a good idea especialy for camping as it means you can easly get to more stuff.

I am interested in doing the same thing so keep us updated.

I am not sure which fridge you bought (I noticed you have) but I have an old finch and I think I could set it up with a pull out draw in such a way as to sit under a solid shelf. BTW if you look at this bunnings Kaboodle flat pack kitchens do a couple of ranges of draw runners that would be suitiable.
 
Gidday S2

That's gold! Apparently your original persuasion must have been too gentle RB.... it's all in "the touch"!

Now, then.
Here's the REALLY embarrassing part - I have never actually tried it for fit physically. I was going off the measurements alone. Never realised that the square tube sides of the cargo barrier fitted around the top/sides of the rear seat backs until Dave made it clear that it should fit. After pushing all the crap out of the way, I managed to get it into place, and the results are plain to see. Dave was right all along: it fits like a Proctologist's finger, as the old saying goes ... :iconwink:.

I have to agree about the uselessness of these blinds. I seem forever moving them out of the car and back again as they are of "no fixed abode"... and in the road ALL the time.

Best regards,

Yeah. The shelf I made for Roo1 was terrific.
Ashamed to admit that I got the idea from a Ford Laser, but there you are ... :iconwink: :lol:.
 
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Gidday Dave

Ratbag,

That is good at least I have done one thing that is usefull today.

Sure was ... :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin:

I reckon the shelf is a good idea especialy for camping as it means you can easly get to more stuff.

I am interested in doing the same thing so keep us updated.

Will do. Hope to get it done before I go to Sydney and Brisbane in a few weeks time. Your information makes this very much more likely to happen, thanks :ebiggrin: :biggrin:!

I am not sure which fridge you bought (I noticed you have) but I have an old finch and I think I could set it up with a pull out draw in such a way as to sit under a solid shelf. BTW if you look at this bunnings Kaboodle flat pack kitchens do a couple of ranges of draw runners that would be suitiable.

Make sure that there is very adequate ventilation above the cooling vents, or it will obligingly run like a pig :(!

I bought the GasMate 35L three way. It's a bit bigger than I would have liked (about 450 H x 500 L x 460 D - opens on the long side). It will probably live on the D/S rear seat so that there is adequate ventilation, and I can hang a towel over the window to keep the sun off it, if necessary, without restricting my vision. Normally I hang a suit hanger on the D/S rear anyway. This keeps my "good" clothes un-crumpled. Couple of shirts, couple of pairs of pants for anything vaguely 'formal' that I might do while away.

My fridge is too high to fit under the blind or shelf which only has around 380 mms height. My little Peltier Effect fridge can probably live in the boot or trailer though. It might be suitable for all my medications ... if it's large enough!

As you have probably gathered, I am still in the planning phase of all this (read "a muddle" ... ;)).

The GasMate is a cracker. $293 at Repco on special a couple of weeks ago. I notice that they have them back on special from 10 to 21 April at $293 again. This is a good price, as these types of fridges are normally about $100 more expensive than this IME. The thermostat is currently set on about 3/4, and the fridge has been steady at around -2 to -3°C for days now.

I do realise that the evaporative fridges are less than stunning performers on 12V (run at 72W drain, not 90W drain when on 240V). 72W is still a lot of amps (6A) to drag out of any 12V socket. I will have to be careful as to what else is running off that circuit.

However, most report that they work well on gas and 240V. Many of the camp grounds I have in mind have 240V available, and I will have 2x 25m heavy duty power leads with me ... I also have a 3 Kg gas bottle for the fridge, and a 1.25 Kg one for cooking. Gas Fuses for both bottles ...

I am planning to run a separate 12V circuit straight from my battery through the trailer connector. This will terminate in a standard cigarette lighter socket in the tool box. The battery box will charge off this using its supplied 12V charger lead. There will also be a connection from there into the trailer bed. It will be arranged so that I can put the auxiliary battery pack in the tool box while charging, then swap the plugs around for supplying power to the trailer and tent when set up.
 
Floor mat moving about

Gidday Folks

Anyone else have a problem with their D/S floor mat wandering?

Every now and then, mine would catch on my clutch pedal, annoying me considerably.

Now that I've fixed it once and for all, I realise that the floor mat has always caught on the clutch pedal support lever, just not particularly noticeably! Having fixed the problem, Roo2 is much smoother when using the clutch. Amazing what one gets used to/accepts!

Got the idea from SWMBO's SH, which comes standard with a restraining T bar that bolts onto the cross member under the front of the driver's seat. Quite some time ago, I felt around the carpet covering this area in Roo2 and discovered that it has a bolt in the same place, just no floor mat restraining bracket.

Got out the Olfa knife this morning and cut a flap in the carpet so that I could get at the 10 mm bolt. It's in the centre, and is around 25 mm long. It secures one earth wire ... I don't know what that earth wire is earthing, but make certain that you put it back when you finish off :iconwink: :lol:!

Here is a photo of that area, with the newly made T bar fitted in Roo2:

IMG-20140418-00108.jpg


The whole exercise took me about 1.5-2 hours. While simple enough, I reckoned it paid to get all the measurements right and the aluminium bar bent in all the right places before finally riveting the T bar permanently at the join.

So it was a matter of measuring the approximate length of the leg of the T first. It looked to me that it should be about 125 mm long, so I cut a piece of 15 x 2.5 mm aluminium bar to around 140 mm to give myself working space. It's much easier to cut a bit off than it is to "cut a bit on" ... :poke:.

As it turned out, about 140 mm long was exactly the right length, once bent to conform to the shape of the front of the cross member and floor.

Next came measuring up for the two holes in the mat. The mat came with a crappy hook thing when I bought the car. It attached through the car carpet on the corner of the mat nearest the door. In an attempt to stabilise it then, I put in another similar thing on the other side of the mat. Didn't work very well ... :(.

The cross bar needs to be around 410 mm long to span the back of the mat. I cut a piece of 15 x 2.5 mm bar to this length. Holding this in place, I aligned the mat with the car floor, then the bar with the holes in the mat. It would help if one had three or even four hands for this ... :rotfl:.

Having done this, I then marked the position of the holes in the mat relative to the bar, and the approximate position of the top of the T to the bolted down leg of the T. I marked each side of the intersection with a dot.

Then came the retaining bolts. I had decided on drilling and tapping some holes in the cross bar, then putting some 25 x 6 mm (approx. 1" x 3/16") round head bolts through these from the underside.

I found the right size tap and drill, then made a test hole in a piece of scrap from the same aluminium bar. Tapping aluminium properly is not easy, specially not with the cheap, crappy tap and die set/s I have (metric and imperial). They work, but compared with my excellent small taps I have for computer work, they really are crappy. They make a pretty loose thread in aluminium, but it is good enough to hold forever ...

At this point, I decided that the ends were too far above the floor level, so the cross bar was marked twice at each end where there would need to be two bends and back into the engineer's vice for the four bends.

Putting the cross bar back in place, I checked that I could still put the mat over the bolts, and then accurately marked where the leg of the T should be fixed.

Took it all out (yet again), and put one rivet through the leg and the cross bar. Put it all back in again. Jiggled everything to get it as square as possible. then marked each side of the leg of the T on the cross bar with a line.

Took it all out again, then drilled and inserted the final two rivets into the leg to cross bar join. Again, I put these in from the underside so that they should not wear the car carpet.

The assembly fitted without the floor mat (you can just see the bends at the far end):

Melbourne-20140418-00109.jpg


Showing retaining mat bolts and rivets joining the leg and the cross bar:

Melbourne-20140418-00110.jpg


With floor mat in place (I will replace the square nuts with wing nuts shortly):

Melbourne-20140418-00111.jpg


Showing the position of the floor mat at the pedal end:

Melbourne-20140418-00112.jpg


Hope that this is of some benefit to others who are similarly annoyed by this.
 
My 07 came with proper unobtrusive locating hooks from new. I have always assumed they were standard but perhaps they were installed by the dealer when fitting the genuine Subaru mat before I collected the car. Does anyone else know? They appear to be part of the carpet & certainly do a perfect locating job.
 
Nice work Ratbag & well done mate :)

My 07 came with proper unobtrusive locating hooks from new.
Not sure about the 07, but I know on the MY05, there is (or I should say was :o) a small plastic hook that was standard.
It is (should be) located right near the open petrol button/lever.
You can see where it was/should be (small hole in carpet) in the 2nd & 3rd pics of Ratbags previous post :iconwink:

Regards
Mr Turbo
 
My 07 came with proper unobtrusive locating hooks from new.

So did our SH.

I have always assumed they were standard but perhaps they were installed by the dealer when fitting the genuine Subaru mat before I collected the car.

I suspect that this fitting is part of the optional OEM floor mat kit.

IIRC, there was a bit of a stir about the safety of unsecured floor mats. That could have been around that time.

Before that, the crappy hook through the carpet seems to have been standard on lots of cars, including the c. 2000 Camry V6 belonging to a friend of ours.

For some reason, the OEM floor mats in the Impreza didn't move around at all. I don't recall it having any kind of locating system at all.

Does anyone else know? They appear to be part of the carpet & certainly do a perfect locating job.

It does. That's why I copied much of the design.
 
Gidday Mr T

Nice work Ratbag & well done mate :)

Thanks, mate. It certainly took a lot of effort for something so simple!

Not sure about the 07, but I know on the MY05, there is (or I should say was :o) a small plastic hook that was standard.
It is (should be) located right near the open petrol button/lever.
You can see where it was/should be (small hole in carpet) in the 2nd & 3rd pics of Ratbags previous post :iconwink:

Regards
Mr Turbo

It took a fair bit of wriggling to get that crappy plastic hook out of the carpet. It interfered with the attachment bracket I made.
It would have worked fine had there been one on each side ...
It would also have worked better if the flooring carpet were rigid, which it isn't ... Too much flexion there.

I decided that a couple of wing nuts and washers would ensure that the floor mat could never come off the posts in some extreme situation.
 
A clever way to do it RB, good job :biggrin:

The wing nuts might be a bit obtrusive, although I guess you're feet wont ever go that far back & it would make it easier to remove the mat
 
Gidday Mr T & NL

Not sure about the 07, but I know on the MY05, there is (or I should say was :o) a small plastic hook that was standard.

I managed to prise the one I took out of mine out of the carpet (without damaging the carpet - other than leaving the flaming big hole there ... ); and also managed to prise the assembly apart without damaging it. It is reusable. So if you want one for the other side of your floor mat, it's yours ... :iconwink:.

A clever way to do it RB, good job :biggrin:

Thanks, but most of the design is plagiarised straight from the OEM bracket in our SH ...
I must say that getting the join and rivets in the right place was the hardest part of it all. I marked and drilled one hole in about the right spot, then marked the other two with a loose rivet through the first hole (at the top of the join - least critical one). Fixed the first rivet, then re-checked the exact position of the other two, then drilled and riveted them. Got it right the first time :iconwink:, thank goodness ... :biggrin:.
Tapping the threads into the aluminium put a lot of strain on my (already sore) hands. Good tap and die sets are worth the money, IF one has a continuing use for them. So is a bottle of Rocol cutting lubricant.

The wing nuts might be a bit obtrusive, although I guess you're feet wont ever go that far back & it would make it easier to remove the mat

Seeing as how I'm a little shorter than 6'7" tall, the normal position of the seat hides them. I reckoned that it was easier to put a washer and nut on the bolts to hold everything together than it was to grind the nuts so that they had a knob on the top (as the ones in the SH have). IMO the wing nut is also a more secure solution.
 
Well, gidday Folks.

Roo2 now has some nice new Pedder variable rate springs/struts at the rear, following my discovery last Monday during a test run with my trailer that the rear suspension was all but completely cactus :cry: :puke:.

I started a thread about the issue here:
https://offroadsubarus.com/showthread.php?t=5435

Following the various bits of advice, I found Lucas (of Lucas Automative, (03) 9553-3995, 92 Levanswell Rd, Moorabbin, Vic) who advised me to get these, and he would fit them. I could not fault either Lucas, or his advice and fitting. Lucas warned me off getting just heavy duty springs/struts, saying that they would be great while towing, but make the car bouncy, harsh and too firm when not towing. YMMV.

The car drives better than it has ever done, even better than it did before the rear suspension disgraced itself ...
The ride is more comfortable and smoother; no sign of harshness or bounce, with or without the trailer attached.

The variable rate springs have a slightly higher load rating than the OEM SLS ones. About 17% more, according to Pedders. Driving it since they have been fitted, this seems to be the case to me. A just noticeable difference, but in no way altering the car away from its normal comfortable ride and handling.
 
Ratbag,

I was thinking about this rear shelf idea on the weekend. In our previous banter you ended with

"What this revelation (to me) does mean is that I can buy and use a cactus s/h cargo blind holder as the basis. It would have been the hardest part to fabricate.'

Now I haven’t seen a cactus blind holder so why couldn’t you mount the shelf strait to the cargo barrier? - A length of angle 30 x 30 x 3 ali should do it ($10 for 1m from Bunnings) in the back to mount some hinges too, held in place on the barrier using a piece of strip (20 x 3 $5) on the passage side of the barrier and some bolts (5 of 6mm with nylon nuts and washers) in between the mesh .

Cost $20 including the bolts that is probably cheaper then you will get a blind for if you can find one
 
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Gidday Dave

Thanks for thinking about this for me.

Oddly, I hadn't thought of this exact method, and it's far simpler than anything that I was thinking about - Thanks heaps.

The wreckers throw away the buggered cargo blind holders .... and s/h ones that still work sell for between $95 and $135.
So I was thinking of ways of attaching it to the existing cargo blind box without damaging it.

Your solution is far better and more elegant.
AND hugely easier to execute ... :ebiggrin: :biggrin:!

Using your method, I can completely remove the existing blind, wrap it up in cardboard and let it live out its life in the garage ... :lol:.

I will start on this tomorrow or Wednesday.
Thanks again :cool:.
 
Ratbag,

Not really all that original –


I was cleaning out the car on the weekend and looked at the blind and how it was held - reminded me of my old liberty.. The blind was mounted to the barrier with some clamps - that always let go at the most inopportune time and you needed a trained octopus to put back in. grrrr

Plus your aluminium work for your mats = a solution to a problem I no longer have or a solution to a problem you are working on.
 
Gidday Folks

Today I got around to checking out my tow bar, tongue and electrical plug.

First thing I noticed while grovelling under the car was that the tow bar was missing a bolt on the D/S. The one that stops the downward force being applied to the heads of the main bolts holding the tow bar onto the car ... :(.

Fortunately I was able to locate a high tensile bolt that was exactly the right size, so it went in:

E-30_JAK_2014-_5212490_Ew.jpg


Next was a close inspection around the area to make certain that nothing else was dodgy. That's when I discovered a complaince plate that was painted the same colour as the tow bar. It reads: "Subaru Australia Pty Ltd" ...

Next cab off the rank was the stupid electrical connector. It was carefully mounted such that it acted as a little grader, subjecting the wiring and itself to lots of pain, suffering and stress. It used to look like this:

E-30_JAK_2012-_1137135_Ew.jpg


The really grotty, rusted on looking bolts holding it all together came off easily with a little RP-7 penetrating oil to help.

Next thing was to work out if I could turn it upside down so that it acted like a little skid plate, rather than like a little grader ... I reckoned that this would work, just (using my fingers to measure things!).

So I belted the mounting plate flat with a sledge hammer on a piece of RSC. Then worked out where the bend should be to allow the connector to be screwed on, and put the now flat bracket into a 4" engineer's vice and belted that until it looked to be about right.

Next thing was to put a slight bend in the part that bolts onto the bracket welded to the tow bar. Did that the same way.

Lo and behold, it all worked!! Miracles happen, I guess ... :iconwink: :lol: :rotfl:.

All the bolt holes lined up the very first time. I could barely believe it.

Then out with my little 15" shifting spanner to bend the tow bar bracket down a touch.

Relieved the tension on the wiring from the car where it was tied on with a cable tie so that the wiring would reach to the new position.

Then bolted it all back together. And here it is:

E-30_JAK_2014-_5212489_Ew.jpg


All in all, a far less painful exercise than I thought it might be. All those little bolts and nuts looked awfully well attached to each other at the beginning ...
 
I've done pretty much the same thing to my trailer plug. Another problem with mine was when they ran the cable from front of the car to the back, they had done the about the dodgiest job possible. The cable hung down low and loose with only 2 cable ties along the entire length. So it was just waiting to get caught on a rock. I fixed it by tucking it up into the chassis and adding more cable ties. So it might be worth checking yours if you haven't already down so.
 
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