Gidday Folks

Guess I should start a journal. Seems a goodly system of keeping this stuff organised ... :poke: :lol:.

Anyway, I have fitted the OEM roof bars and Rola basket to Roo2 in the last couple of days.


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Took it for a spin into town today on the Nepean Highway.

From about 70 km/h, it started to purr.

By about 80 km/h, the purr had become a more of a roar ... :( :(.

This will drive me NUTS, in short order ... Fortunately, it is my intention to fit the basket to the lid on my rebuilt trailer, where it should be out of the wind, and the noise should be well behind me ....

Will keep you posted about all this ... :iconwink: ;) :raspberry:
 
^ Ha, not too bad a guess then, Mr T ... :biggrin:.

What does a new turbo/repair cost?
How often are they needed?
 
Pretty good guess mate :)

What does a new turbo/repair cost?
I don't know. But I'm guessing they would cost quite a pretty penny though.

Rally would probably be able to put a ball park figure on one though :)

Regards
Mr Turbo
 
These long term costs can make a car expensive from cradle to grave. It is one of a number of reasons that I avoided getting a turbo model.

I also bought Roo2 knowing that I was lining up for a grand or so within a very short period. I'd already factored that into the price I paid for it. Cost accounting is deadly boring, but it can be very helpful in some circumstances :lol:!

Even with extras such as sheep, roof bars, cargo barrier (still not fitted ... :(), new tyres and alignment, and this big service, it has still cost me less than half the price of a new one with the same option level. C/over price made it even less than this. AFAIAC, Roo1 was at the end of its economic life, being nearly 18 y.o. (even though only at 78% by mileage - it's really whichever comes first: 20 years or 300,000 kms ... ).

So I got a car that was at a point where it had used up a bit less than a third of its economic life in both years and mileage for a fair bit less than half its new price (about 43%, IIRC), including all the extras and big service. Sounds like good economics to me ... :poke: :biggrin:. Pay 43% for value of 67% ... A saving of around $6,000-7,000 in depreciation - nett :ebiggrin: :biggrin: Some benefits to having quals in this area, I can work out exactly what the costs/benefits are fairly easily :iconwink: :cool:.

Another problem for me with a turbo is that my licence wouldn't have lasted five minutes :(!

Add in fuel requirements (and cost) and consumption. My right foot is 'sleepy' enough even in Roo2 - hard to keep up with SWMBO in RonnyRoo though. She reckons that "It's easy to go fast in this car" ... :lol: :rotfl:.

So I am very happy with my choice.

Really very satisfying that Ross reckons that it is in excellent condition in every way after his first really close inspection of it. There is always that nagging doubt with any s/h car ... :shrug:.

Thank goodness that RonnyRoo is some 45,000 kms or about 2-3 years away from its 125K km service. Gives some breathing space! It will need new tyres sometime in the next year, however.
 
I immediately noticed that the car drives smoother; and the engine is idling smoother, with less noise. I thought - Am I imagining this?
As I drove home it became abundantly obvious that I wasn't.

I have read quite a number of reports that the second fill with FS oil shows a noticeable improvement in fuel economy and the smoothness of the engine. I can't say that this is the cause, but the car sure feels and sounds smoother.

Possibly the oil but I think much more likely is the new plugs. IMO Roo2 is saying thankyou for the TLC by purring :biggrin:

A problem with turbos isnt just the cost of the turbo itself but if any bits come of it the engine repairs mount up. But treat it nice & they should do the same :iconwink:
 
For me, buying the turbo was a choice of a standard X or $11,000 extra for the XT. It was two test drives - an auto and a manual - that decided me. And it wasn't just the performance that came into it. Things like the xenon lights weren't available on any other Forester. Still way over priced though - paid $43,500 driveaway (no trade) - when 6 years later I can get the new Golf for $24,000 driveaway. The premium we pay for the top line in a range is far too much when compared with the base model, whether it is a Subaru or a VW I reckon.

Except for one thing having the turbo has not been any more expensive than owning a non-turbo. One of my younger brothers has had an 03 X manual at the same time so it has been interesting to compare them. We have driven them in convoy a number of times and they use the same amount of petrol although I think mine might use a bit more in intensive cold start, short trip city work. general servicing costs have been the same except like all 06/07 turbo Subarus mine has needed the secondary air pump delete and required reflash of the ecu which also had the bonus of giving me a 190kW /370Nm Forester. Total cost $1500. His however has had to get the head gaskets done and the clutch replaced (something to do with the dual mass flywheel also). He's only done 160,000km where mine has done 249,000km. He has also just recently had to get a new centre diff yet mine is the one that has had to do the harder work towing and over bad roads. Luck of the draw I guess.

As far as the turbo itself I have never worried about it and just assume it will last the life of the engine. However from reading Subaru forums it appears the there are plenty of low mileage stock units around on the market that can be picked up for a couple of hundred $. It does after all use the same engine as the WRX and how many of those are now still running with the stock turbo?

Thanks for the info about the cost of the tensioner, pulleys & water pump. It's decided me, they have to be changed at that price. I think I might use a well respected VW/Subaru independent Advanced Service Centre who I have used once before rather than risk an apprentice at Wippells, even though they have always done a good job at the standard servicing. To me this is the BIG one where everything is being done and I want it done properly. This car is going to be staying with me for the next 10 years and I want it to continue to be reliable and in top condition. It's too good to give up.
 
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Gidday Guzzla

For me, buying the turbo was a choice of a standard X or $11,000 extra for the XT. It was two test drives - an auto and a manual - that decided me. And it wasn't just the performance that came into it. Things like the xenon lights weren't available on any other Forester. Still way over priced though - paid $43,500 driveaway (no trade) - when 6 years later I can get the new Golf for $24,000 driveaway. the premium we pay for the top line in a range is far too much when compared with the base model, whether it is a Subaru or a VW I reckon.

Standard rip-off for Oz, mate.

Also, I doubt that the Golf will still be going strong at 250,000 kms.
I made this same decision when I bought Roo1. $29,000 d/a for it, or $23,500 for a fully optioned Hyundai Excel (i.e. the Hyundai with the same equipment level as my GX Impreza). At 234,000 kms, the Impreza still looked pretty much like new, drove pretty much like new. I could see some big ticket items on the horizon though. Would have happily spent the bucks if the car really suited me, but it didn't. Better to turn it over for the Fox because of this. The Hyundai would have been at the wreckers at around 160,000 kms ...

Except for one thing having the turbo has not been any more expensive than owning a non-turbo. One of my younger brothers has had an 03 X manual at the same time so it has been interesting to compare them. We have driven them in convoy a number of times and they use the same amount of petrol although I thing mine might use a bit more in intensive cold start, short trip city work. general servicing costs have been the same except like all 06/07 turbo Subarus mine has needed the secondary air pump delete and required reflash of the ecu which also had the bonus of giving me a 190kW /370Nm Forester. Total cost $1500.

I consider having to spend $1,500 for this kind of thing more than just unacceptable - I would be spitting chips!

The petrol is also much more expensive in Victoria, at least. Usually 10c/L more for 95 RON, and 20+c/L more for 98 RON. That adds up very quickly when multiplied by the kilometres. Around $25 per 1,000 kms extra for fuel, even if the consumption were identical.

his however has had to get the head gaskets done and the clutch replaced (something to do with the dual mass flywheel also). He's only done 160,000km where mine has done 249,000km. He has also just recently had to get a new centre diff yet mine is the one that has had to do the harder work towing and over bad roads. Luck of the draw I guess.

Wouldn't the head gaskets have come under the recall? His would have been the first of the SG series which is supposed to have had this problem from the start? Or have I got this a-about?

Different drivers, different results for all these things. My brother and I drive completely differently, and always have.

As far as the turbo itself I have never worried about it and just assume it will last the life of the engine. However from reading Subaru forums it appears the there are plenty of low mileage stock units around on the market that can be picked up for a couple of hundred $. It does after all use the same engine as the WRX and how many of those are now still running with the stock turbo?

I don't think I would be too keen on putting a s/h turbo into a car - a bit like using a s/h timing belt, IMHO. YMMV.

Thanks for the info about the cost of the tensioner, pulleys & water pump. It's decided me, they have to be changed at that price. I think I might use a well respected VW/Subaru independent Advanced Service Centre who I have used once before rather than risk an apprentice at Wippells, even though they have always done a good job at the standard servicing. To me this is the BIG one where everything is being done and I want it done properly. This car is going to be staying with me for the next 10 years and I want it to continue to be reliable and in top condition. It's too good to give up.

That's the same reason why I am glad that both ours are back in Ross's care. When he says he has checked everything, I know that everything has been checked. One cannot buy honour and integrity - it's either there, or it's not ... After 15+ years dealing with the man, I have never found him to be anything but completely honest.
Maybe that's why his shop won best Bosch service centre in Oz for all of 2013; and ditto from Shell :).
 
Also, I doubt that the Golf will still be going strong at 250,000 kms.

I consider having to spend $1,500 for this kind of thing more than just unacceptable - I would be spitting chips!

The petrol is also much more expensive in Victoria, at least. Usually 10c/L more for 95 RON, and 20+c/L more for 98 RON. That adds up very quickly when multiplied by the kilometres. Around $25 per 1,000 kms extra for fuel, even if the consumption were identical.

Wouldn't the head gaskets have come under the recall? His would have been the first of the SG series which is supposed to have had this problem from the start? Or have I got this a-about?

I don't think I would be too keen on putting a s/h turbo into a car - a bit like using a s/h timing belt, IMHO. YMMV. :).

Hi Ratbag - btw I hope you gave yourself that name with a wry smile.....
And sorry, but I don't know how to break your quotes up into parts and answer each one separately.

re. the Golf Only time will tell and I initially had that worried feeling about European cars when making the decision. However I have had the chance to drive all of the opposition I considered- Impreza, Corolla, i30, Mazda3 - and after that experience no sane person with even the sensitivity to driving could come to any other conclusion. All those drivers of those models getting around on the roads - and they are some of the biggest selling cars in Australia - mustn't have even looked to far when making their purchase. Besides, after 6 months and 28,000km the Golf has been perfect, its build quality is exceptional (better than my Forester which was better than our Camry) and it sounds and feels like it will go the distance. Time will tell.

re. the secondary airpump (it pumps air into the exhaust for about 15 secs after a cold start - Subaru's way of making it pass the cold start emission test - shame they used metal reed valves down at the exhaust end which corrode after a few years and stick open causing the exhaust crap to go up into the pump and wreck it too) Subaru's cure is to ask $4500 to replace all the parts - $600 of that would be labour.

re. the petrol Everywhere I've been in QLD & NSW lately price 95RON 10c above 91RON and 98Ron 16c above. Toowoomba is renowned for competitive petrol prices which I can vouch for, having travelled in every state in the last 7 years. And we don't suffer the price wars that go on in the capitals cities. The prices for the last week at the Caltex I usually fill up at are 91RON 149.5c/L, 95RON 159.5c/L, diesel 163.5c/L and 98RON 165.5c/L. I'm in Brisbane today where it is about 15c/L dearer than that. I use 98 now all the time in both cars, the Forester because it's the tune I have chosen to run since the reflash and the Golf because it is recommended. I can quickly reflash the Forester to a 95 tune if needed because part of the deal is it comes with the Flash-Torque system with data logging, flash tunes and code reader and deleting. My brother runs 91 all the time and at 16c/L extra and the 9L/100km we seem to average that only comes to $14.40 per 1000km. And I still think he got the better value car. I should never have driven that manual XT demo lol

re. the head gaskets It was a long time outside warranty, only 2 years ago if I remember correctly, and where he got it done just said it happens to all of the non-turbos from that era so he just accepted that.

re. the secondhand turbo Well if it is much cheaper than a new one I feel it would be worth the try. After all, it would be going into a well worn motor and if it does break it would just be a matter of trying another secondhand one. Most of these WRX guys (and some XT guys too) quickly modified their cars and some of those turbos would be almost like new. Anyway I'm being positive and pretending that mine will last as long as the engine. I really do feel confident about it.

Sorry for hijacking your thread. It has been such an interesting read. Like me, you enjoy the complete ownership experience of the car and not just the driving experience. My brother says I must have OCD but I say it's worse than that - it's CDO (needs to be in alphabetical order too lol)
 
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G'day again Guzzla

Hi Ratbag - btw I hope you gave yourself that name with a wry smile.....

You got it in one ... :iconwink: :ebiggrin: :lol:
What else does one call oneself when one has a (small) bag full of qualifications, an interest in just about everything, and is a member of the Silly Old Farts Association, or SOFA for short? Still being basically a larrikin (in the good sense of that word, if there is one ... ) and past my mid sixties ...
And besides, I have been called far worse than that in my life :rotfl:.

And sorry, but I don't know how to break your quotes up into parts and answer each one separately.

It's really very easy. You need to insert a pair of QUOTE/END QUOTE markers where you want to break the text (these are available as a menu pick from the top of the editor window - it is the icon that has a square box surrounding 'greeked' text and a little call-out pointer at the bottom right). Having inserted them, delete the "/" from the second one of the pair, and insert a "/" between the "[" and the "Q" of the first one of the pair (i.e. at the end of the text you are answering) - e.g. "[/Q...E]".
One cannot demonstrate this, because the editor interprets the full text string as an HTML delimit character, and doesn't display it :raspberry:, cheeky bloody thing.

When you first WRAP the delimiters around the blank space between the original items you want to separate it will appear like this:

" ... gobbledegook [QUOT-] [/QUOT-] yet more garbage ... ", where the dash is actually an "E".
You need to change this to:
" ... gobbledegook [/QUOT-] [QUOT-] yet more garbage ... ", where the dash is actually an "E", and the "/" character has been deleted from the second one of the pair and inserted into the first one of the pair.

Having done this, then look at the post in PREVIEW mode to ensure that you haven't stuffed it up :iconwink: :lol:!

A minor tip is that if you do stuff it up (as I do from time to time ... ), you can edit your post within a short time of posting (a minute or two, I haven't timed it) to fix this kind of error without it showing as an edit.

re. the Golf Only time will tell and I initially had that worried feeling about European cars when making the decision. However I have had the chance to drive all of the opposition I considered- Impreza, Corolla, i30, Mazda3 - and after that experience no sane person with even the sensitivity to driving could come to any other conclusion. All those drivers of those models getting around on the roads - and they are some of the biggest selling cars in Australia - mustn't have even looked to far when making their purchase. Besides, after 6 months and 28,000km the Golf has been perfect, its build quality is exceptional (better than my Forester which was better than our Camry) and it sounds and feels like it will go the distance. Time will tell.

Yes, I do understand what you are saying. Back in the early 1990s, the Germans went to Japan to learn about TQM! It was costing as much to fix a Mercedes (after it left the line, and before it shipped) as it was costing to manufacture a similar model Lexus! Same quality management as we tend to use in Oz. Bugger up the manufacture, then fix it before shipping. Not sensible, nor cheap.

Honda didn't set out to make "perfect" engines back in the 1970s. What they did do was fix manufacturing problems on the line as they arose, if necessary ripping the line to bits and fixing it so that the problem never arose again. By the early to mid 1990s, they didn't even bother to test whether their engines worked or not - they couldn't NOT work ... :biggrin:. That's TQM in action for ya!

So European makers have adopted total quality management principles with a vengeance since then, and their products have become far cheaper, and very well made as a result (like most Japanese cars).

Bear in mind that an XS Forester in the US costs around half what it does here! So they are really a "fridge on wheels" as I call them, or alternatively a "white goods car". What is truly remarkable is how high the build quality standard has become since my youth, when most cars (with the exception of true bespoke cars like Rollers, Gordon Keeble, etc) were garbage that was slammed together by brickies (no offense intended to brickies - just that they should build houses, not build cars).

Cont'd in part 2
 
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Part 2

re. the secondary airpump (it pumps air into the exhaust for about 15 secs after a cold start - Subaru's way of making it pass the cold start emission test - shame they used metal reed valves down at the exhaust end which corrode after a few years and stick open causing the exhaust crap to go up into the pump and wreck it too) Subaru's cure is to ask $4500 to replace all the parts - $600 of that would be labour.

That's plain bloody ugly! Very strange for Subaru to do something like that. Ever since they first showed up here in Oz, I have been impressed with the design of them, if sometimes a tad rough around the edges (but, see above comment ... ). Perhaps they are using a third party designer/builder for the turbo system? But that seems strange as well. I guess even a committed designer/builder can make serious mistakes - BUT they should fix them ... It cost Mercedes something like $1.5 billion to design and build the A140. It then cost them about $6 billion to rectify the serious design fault in the suspension that caused one to fail the "moose test" in front of a testing ground packed with journos ... At least they did fix the problem. They also did it in a manner that could only be described as exemplary. Not like VW Australia with their recent debacle.

re. the petrol Everywhere I've been in QLD & NSW lately price 95RON 10c above 91RON and 98Ron 16c above. Toowoomba is renowned for competitive petrol prices which I can vouch for, having travelled in every state in the last 7 years. And we don't suffer the price wars that go on in the capitals cities. The prices for the last week at the Caltex I usually fill up at are 91RON 149.5c/L, 95RON 159.5c/L, diesel 163.5c/L and 98RON 165.5c/L. I'm in Brisbane today where it is about 15c/L dearer than that. I use 98 now all the time in both cars, the Forester because it's the tune I have chosen to run since the reflash and the Golf because it is recommended. I can quickly reflash the Forester to a 95 tune if needed because part of the deal is it comes with the Flash-Torque system with data logging, flash tunes and code reader and deleting. My brother runs 91 all the time and at 16c/L extra and the 9L/100km we seem to average that only comes to $14.40 per 1000km. And I still think he got the better value car. I should never have driven that manual XT demo lol

Yeah, my brother lives in Brisbane, and I grew up there. My Mother's family are centred around Toowoomba, and I went to primary school there (CEBS - "Prep"). I moved away down south about 40+ years ago. Don't like the climate. We have "weather" in Melbourne, not "climate" ... :iconwink:. So I am well aware of the (envious) stability of fuel prices in Qld. Been like that since my youth. Still like it last time I was there in 2011.

re. the head gaskets It was a long time outside warranty, only 2 years ago if I remember correctly, and where he got it done just said it happens to all of the non-turbos from that era so he just accepted that.

That's a bugger. Hard to reach back 10 years for a warranty claim. Subaru did that for me with the crappy instrument nacelle in Roo1 though. About 6-7 years old, with 160,000 kms on the clock, and they paid for a s/h one under warranty. Mind, I had been moaning about it since the car was about 2 years old and well within warranty, so that probably helped.

re. the secondhand turbo Well if it is much cheaper than a new one I feel it would be worth the try. After all, it would be going into a well worn motor and if it does break it would just be a matter of trying another secondhand one. Most of these WRX guys (and some XT guys too) quickly modified their cars and some of those turbos would be almost like new. Anyway I'm being positive and pretending that mine will last as long as the engine. I really do feel confident about it.

There is that. However, AFAIK when a turbo fails catastrophically, a whole lot of crap gets chucked into the cylinders, buggering up the engine. I haven't researched this (because I avoid turbo engines ... ), so could well be wrong.

Sorry for hijacking your thread. It has been such an interesting read. Like me, you enjoy the complete ownership experience of the car and not just the driving experience. My brother says I must have OCD but I say it's worse than that - it's CDO (needs to be in alphabetical order too lol)

No worries. Likewise.
Agree about the CDO. But it could also be ODD ... :iconwink:. We're not related, by any chance?

Geez, that could tell you what one of my quals is in ... :biggrin:.

And you are right. I do enjoy everything about cars. I always choose for function over form, which is out of fashion these days ... BIG TIME. The ATO doesn't care what you put in your tax return, as long as you lodge it ... Could have your GSD's paw print in the signature box - JUST SO LONG AS YOU LODGE IT ...

What's the World coming to?
Don't answer, it was a rhetorical question.
I know only too well what it's coming to; and have a fair idea of when it will hit the wall; plus or minus about 50 years ...
 
Roo2's slight almost apologetic "cough" has disappeared

Gidday Folks

Another thing that I have noticed since the service is that Roo2's slight, almost apologetic "cough" has disappeared.

I have mentioned this before in various posts. The very slightest of hesitation used to occur when accelerating very gently in slightly too high a gear; or occasionally from a standstill in first. Particularly when turning to the right (IIRC).

It was never anything that particularly bothered me, and only occurred in very particular circumstances, and then not all the time.

It's gone :). No trace at all.
 
Great to hear (or not to hear in your case) that your Forry has lost it's cough :)
Seems like Ross worked his magic during your last service :)

Regards
Mr Turbo
 
^ I think he has, Mr T. The invoice mentioned "checking the tune", which I interpreted to mean that he ran his workshop type analyser over everything.

After the (possible) stuff up about the radiator, he said that he wanted to make sure Roo2 was "perfect" before it left the workshop. Methinks he did ... :biggrin: :cool:.

Ross doesn't impress me as being any kind of cowboy ...
 
Great to hear RB, too bad your about 4000km too far away. My old girl needs a little work as she's running abit rich and struggling to get 400km to a tank!
 
Filled Roo2.

About 12.3L/100 Kms at the fill up today. 51.7L for 421 kms.

That's all but a few Kms at under 70 kmh. Mostly short trips to the shops, etc. About 45 kms to Dandenong and back towing the trailer, and also towed it to Jimi's and back (about 8 kms).

I have to admit to being somewhat lead-footed this tank ... :lildevil:.
 
Self lifting 5 Ply cargo shelf/cover

Gidday Folks

In Roo1, I made a nifty ply based shelf to replace the almost totally useless cargo blind. The same kind of almost totally useless cargo blind that is in Roo2 ... and in RonnyRoo, too, for that matter.

One of the big problems is that with the cargo barrier fitted in Roo2, the existing cargo blind must be removed.

This morning I have been measuring up for the same kind of cargo shelf I made for Roo1 to fit in Roo2 with the cargo barrier installed.

What prevents this ATM is that the cargo blind housing extends towards the front of the car, mostly closing the gap between it and the back of the rear seats. This gap is currently ~15 mm. The cargo barrier is 20 mm thick at this crucial point.

However, the actual mounting points for the existing cargo blind have sufficient clearance if one uses a piece of aluminium rectangular box section with measurements of 1380+ mm long by 20 mm thick and 70 mm high. The actual trim to trim socket length in my car is 1382 mm in the indented part. The bar needs to be 1380 mm long at this point. It needs to be longer than this at the top and shorter at the bottom, so allowance must be made for this so that it can be shaped to fit neatly. After making to fit at the top, it needs to have the ends shaped to fit the trim properly.

The measurements in YOUR car may be slightly different, so it pays to measure twice, and cut once ... :poke: :lol: :cool:.

The ends of the aluminium box section need to be shaped to fit the topology of the trim from top to bottom at the ends, such that the bottom of the bar rests on the top of the trim of the strut tops. The f/r of the ends also need to have cuts made so that the existing spring clamps hold the bar in place.

I plan to make a mock up using some 70*20 mm wood first and try this with the cargo barrier just sitting in place.

At 70 mm high to the top of the existing trim cut outs, the gap between the aluminium and the back of the rear seats increases to around 30 to 35 mm.
Just enough for the cargo barrier to fit with some clearance.

The cargo barrier brackets may need to be altered to put it in exactly the right position. I plan to use the child safety capsule mounts near the rear hatch frame for mounting the upper cargo barrier brackets, so these will need to be made to measure anyway.

I got the basic design many years ago from a Ford Laser luggage cover that worked the same way. Made a similar design to fit Roo1, and it worked an absolute treat for the next 17+ years. Heaviest load I ever had on it was 3 x 20 Kg bags of pool salt. It bent rather alarmingly, but not permanently ;) :). It was made from lighter 5 ply than I intend to use for the one in Roo2. It was also reinforced with aluminium channel along the load bearing edges, and also on both sides of the centre transverse piano hinge. Covered it with grey Naugahyde. Looked great, and worked very well.

The shelf itself will be in two parts. A rectangular section closest to the back of the rear seats that will measure about 1385 to 1390 wide and about 380 mm from front to rear PLUS maybe a flap that completely closes the gap between it and the cargo barrier (a scoop made from a bit of canvas with Velcro strips to attach it to the cargo barrier?) - either that or a stop that prevents small bits from falling off the rear of the shelf and behind all your luggage ... :( :).

The trailing edge of the front section will be reinforced with a hardwood strip about 30x20 mm, with a piano hinge along its entire length where it joins the rear section. The reinforcing strip is both glued and screwed onto the bottom of both pieces of the ply shelf either side of their join. The piano hinge is screwed into this, NOT into the ply ...

The rear section of the shelf will lift automatically when the tailgate is opened. In Roo1, I just looped some light nylon cord over the tops of the hatch struts and tied it off under the shelf at an appropriate point. When carrying anything heavy on top of the shelf, I just slipped the cords off the strut tops. As easy as ... :).

With Roo2, this is slightly more complicated, as the cord would cross the hatch seal if done this way (it didn't do this in Roo1). Seems that the best thing will be to make a small aluminium reinforcing plate for the plastic trim on the sides of the gate, then loop the lifting cord over a small tang made in this plate. Attach the plates with 4 to 6 small rivets on each side.

The bottom of the cord is put through a hole drilled through the lifting section at the appropriate point, then tied off so that it is just slack when the tailgate is fully closed. When I have determined some of these measurements, I will post them.

The rear section is the same width as the front at the join, and for about 50-100 mm towards the rear of the car. The sides then need to be shaped to both fit the car trim, and allow clearance when the shelf lifts. This is the tricky part! The shelf varies in F/R length from about 380 mm at the sides to a 'hump' of 420 mm in the centre. At the rear sides, it will rest on top of the existing support for the ends of the existing cargo blind.

My plan is to shape the under-side edge of both sections so that they rest on the trim of the car below the rear quarter windows. Attach some felt or leather pads to both car trim and the shelf so that they do not chafe each other. Ditto for the aluminium bar.

With the one in Roo1, I designed it so that the 2 sections could be folded flat against each other, then placed across the car behind the front seats when not wanted. I am not sure that I can achieve this design objective with the one for Roo2. I will have to do some careful measurements of width and depth of the rear seat and across the car behind the front seats. I have just done some measurements, and the shelf needs to be about 1370 mm total width to stand a chance of fitting. This could possibly be achieved if the aluminium bar were removable from the shelf. Have to think about that part ... :iconwink:

The lift is about 150-200 mm at the rear edge of the rear section of the shelf when the hatch is opened fully. It doesn't sound like much, but it means that you don't have the roll up and unroll the bloody cargo blind in order to comfortably put a shopping bag in the cargo area!!
 
The measurements in YOUR car may be slightly different, so it pays to measure twice, and cut once ... :poke: :lol: :cool:.

I've seen what happens when you don't, along with "Tim the Toolman Taylor" :lol:

So yes it does :iconwink:

Regards
Mr Turbo
 
^ Exactly, Mr T.

Here is a photo of the cargo shelf I made for Roo1:

E-30_JAK_2011-_C156987_Ew.jpg


I might move these posts to a new thread. Plenty of threads about fitting cargo storage solutions, but none that are similar to what I am going to do.

They also don't consider the problem/s associated with fitting both a cargo barrier and blind or shelf at the same time. Not sure if there is room to do this in the series I SG. There is in the MY09/MY10 SH. There certainly is not room in the series II SG.
 
[FONT=&quot]Ratbag,

I am wondering why your cargo blind does not fit with the cargo barrier in place. Mine does, granted it is very tight and I had to jump on the barrier and bend it a little to stop the two rattling.

I have attached a file where you can see the barrier and the blind both installed - it is not the best but it is the only one I have at the moment. - I wonder if the blind is different for the 07 and if you could use an 07 blind as the basis for the mount of the shelf - and save yourself a far bit of aluminium work.

Although the ali option is probably cheaper[/FONT]
 

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