N/A Supercharger Project x2

thunder039 said:
taza i must ask why dont you just use the turbo ej20, or buy a gt to start off with rather then go through all this trouble?
Click to expand...

Simple answer is that in the long run it's cheaper over time - you buy what you can afford to do at the time and go from there...

Plus a super charger is much better suited to offroading :twisted:

I think I'm feeling another itch.

Cheers

Bennie
 
thunder039 said:
taza i must ask why dont you just use the turbo ej20, or buy a gt to start off with rather then go through all this trouble?
Click to expand...

The turbo isn't good offroad unless dirsel. You don't hit boost till 2000-3000rpm ad there for wpuldnt be any better than my n/a.
Plus I want to be different. The sc will make it very torque which is what I'm after.
 
El_Freddo said:
I'd be careful using the head bolt as a mounting point - I'm only saying this due to HG failure if you remove a bolt to slot the bracket over it, you might crack the seal of the HG or warp the head, this is why there's a specific torque sequence when you replace head gaskets. And on top of that you'd need to get a new bolt anyway as these suckers are those one use only torque/stretch types.

Cheers

Bennie
Click to expand...

I was a bit worried about bolting only to head and intake myself but there's not a lot of options and others have done it without issue. We're not using the head bolts just what I'm told are the engine lifting points. Some firmer engine mounts might be a good idea also.

Go team intercooler!
 
Nah, Nitrous would be useless because if you bogged the car down and gave it a gut full it'd probably detonate, kind of what put me off using the system I put in my liberty.
 
What about for hill climbs and powering through the soft? I was considering a setup for mine down the track. Happy to take advice from someone who has been there and done it.
 
One of the biggest problems is trying to find someone who knows enough about it in Perth to use it for that application, I guess a 15hp shot would be ok but what you have to remember is that 1st gear in these dual range boxes is like glass, it's only about 2/3 the size of a normal box and if you throw too much torque at it it'll just let go, hence the reason I take it fairly easy in mine in 1st, the rest of the gears are all the standard width of a normal 5 speed.

You noticed they don't put the dual range boxes in the 6's and turbo's because of the extra grunt they have?
 
Maybe strap some rockets to the car?

Jump on a 4WD forum and say you've got a car with open front and rear diffs, a viscous centre coupling, 1.447 low range and your thinkng of nitrous to stop if getting stuck. Its absurb when you put it that way because you can't really take advantage of that extra power when it all goes to one wheel the moment it loses traction.

Me, personally i've been down the extra power path now with 2 offroaded Subarus. 2.5 quad cam in my L series and H6 in my Liberty. The L series didn't get anywhere further than any other Subaru because of its **** drive train. Neither did the Lib untill i went with the trick driveline. When i think about selling my car i don't give the H6 a second thought, its the driveline i want to keep.

L series 1.59 low range is almost the same step up again that it is from 1.29 to 1.44, think about doing it. Get a 12kg centre diff. Get a front LSD. Get a rear LSD. Maybe put a parttime 4WD L series box in the Forester casing so you get a centre diff lock. At this point if your car doesn't have enough guts then consider more power.
 
Venom said:
Maybe strap some rockets to the car?

Jump on a 4WD forum and say you've got a car with open front and rear diffs, a viscous centre coupling, 1.447 low range and your thinkng of nitrous to stop if getting stuck. Its absurb when you put it that way because you can't really take advantage of that extra power when it all goes to one wheel the moment it loses traction.

Me, personally i've been down the extra power path now with 2 offroaded Subarus. 2.5 quad cam in my L series and H6 in my Liberty. The L series didn't get anywhere further than any other Subaru because of its **** drive train. Neither did the Lib untill i went with the trick driveline. When i think about selling my car i don't give the H6 a second thought, its the driveline i want to keep.

L series 1.59 low range is almost the same step up again that it is from 1.29 to 1.44, think about doing it. Get a 12kg centre diff. Get a front LSD. Get a rear LSD. Maybe put a parttime 4WD L series box in the Forester casing so you get a centre diff lock. At this point if your car doesn't have enough guts then consider more power.
Click to expand...

Very good point!

*Note: I wasn't actually being serious about Nitros

If I put a part time 4wd L-Series box in my Forester casing does that mean it would be FWD, then have 4WD Hi and Lo? I would like to keep my AWD for on road.

Open diffs are the biggest issue with Subies once clearance, gearing and power are sorted.
I will deferenately be doing a geared front LSD, centre well depends on whats avaliable as 12kg's are hard to find. But if the L-Series locking centre could be put in then that would solve that issue.

How have you done your centre Venom? I read its an L-Series 4WD box in EJ casing?? How does that work?

At this point the engine just runs out of puff on either sand, rocks or onroad. Then when you try and go for 1st gear you can't and end up getting stuck as the syncro's completely gone on first.

EDIT: After just reading your thread Venom of your Lib you have a part time 4wd gearbox with front EJ casing/bell housing right?
Im guessing FWD then onroad...
 
Last edited:
Obviously it wouldn't do anything without traction but if you were losing power in second surely a shot might mean you didn't have to change down to first.

While power is not yet a limiting factor for me I can't say it won't be in the future once clearance and traction are sorted.
 
if the engine is that stuffed is it realy worth the trouble of a super charger? becuase you dont want to waste your time and effort on a engine that may not last given your recent troubles with burning oil etc
 
thunder039 said:
if the engine is that stuffed is it realy worth the trouble of a super charger? becuase you dont want to waste your time and effort on a engine that may not last given your recent troubles with burning oil etc
Click to expand...

All it needs done are the stem seals.

The thing is his engine isnt that far off the performance of stock. It just isnt that powerful an engine. The leaking oil combined with the bigger tires, roof basket and extra weight he usually has in the car all make an impact and it really does significantly hurt performance.

Once the mount is done and all working fine then it is a relatively straight forward task to get the charger completed and set up. Removing it is also less than an hour job if needed also.
 
Davidov said:
All it needs done are the stem seals.

The thing is his engine isnt that far off the performance of stock. It just isnt that powerful an engine. The leaking oil combined with the bigger tires, roof basket and extra weight he usually has in the car all make an impact and it really does significantly hurt performance.

Once the mount is done and all working fine then it is a relatively straight forward task to get the charger completed and set up. Removing it is also less than an hour job if needed also.
Click to expand...


fair enough. i notice when im carrying extra wieght the proformance of the forester is terrible and it always feels like your hammering the gearbox.
at least if your engine did ever give up wont be hard to transfer the super charger
 
thunder039 said:
fair enough. i notice when im carrying extra wieght the proformance of the forester is terrible and it always feels like your hammering the gearbox.
at least if your engine did ever give up wont be hard to transfer the super charger
Click to expand...

Yes, that's another good thing.

As Dave said when loaded to it struggles. Fill the boot, roof and put 5 people in the car plus with the bigger tyres and try going offroad or on a long trip.

But for 90kw it does a good job.

The engine just needs the seals done to stop the buning oil and while a part clear out some of the carbon build up on the heads and that.

With the sc I think the car will have the right amount of power and go much easier wen loaded up.
 
taza said:
Yes, that's another good thing.

As Dave said when loaded to it struggles. Fill the boot, roof and put 5 people in the car plus with the bigger tyres and try going offroad or on a long trip.
Click to expand...
I noticed this with my 2.5na DR Outback at the weekend as well.
With 39 litre car fridge, tools, including hand winch, and camping gear, and roof basket accelleration was way down. Therefore no way it would climb 4x4 tracks.

Also using a fair bit of oil. How difficult are the stem seals to do? I presume the engine will need to be pulled. :(
 
Barry said:
I noticed this with my 2.5na DR Outback at the weekend as well.
With 39 litre car fridge, tools, including hand winch, and camping gear, and roof basket accelleration was way down. Therefore no way it would climb 4x4 tracks.

Also using a fair bit of oil. How difficult are the stem seals to do? I presume the engine will need to be pulled. :(
Click to expand...

Yes the engine will need to be pulled. They aren't real difficult, its mainly time that is costly if you pay someone to do it.

I know exactly what you mean about power when loaded up.... :raspberry:

What are your plans with your new gearbox Barry?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top