If I put a part time 4wd L-Series box in my Forester casing does that mean it would be FWD, then have 4WD Hi and Lo? I would like to keep my AWD for on road.
Yes it would be PT4wd with a true 50/50 lock between front and rear.
Open diffs are the biggest issue with Subies once clearance, gearing and power are sorted.
That's pretty much stating the obvious there!
if the L-Series locking centre could be put in then that would solve that issue.
It can be, but it requires you to use the rear housing that comes with the locking centre diff as well as the pinion shaft. This means a gearbox tear down and rebuild with the required bits, also a custom prop shaft and gear linkages will be required. And you'll be stuck with 3.7 or 3.9 diff ratio unless you can find some one to do a cut and shut on the pinion shaft - and they'd better be good at it otherwise you'll have some "issues" on hand if it snaps.
How have you done your centre Venom? I read its an L-Series 4WD box in EJ casing?? How does that work?
Same way as my gearbox works with my EJ conversion - the front housings are the same with the exception of the bell housing - all the internals slot into the same spot. The rear casings also bolt on without issue.
So Venom's got the rare as hen's teeth L series AWD with 3.7 diff ratios, L series low range in EJ front casings with the custom prop shaft and gear linkages behind his H6. And it goes off it's tits! This is also the reason why he opted for a stock EJ22 clutch setup - the weakest link in the system hopefully.
At this point the engine just runs out of puff on either sand, rocks or onroad. Then when you try and go for 1st gear you can't and end up getting stuck as the syncro's completely gone on first.
I dunno about the synchros gone on first - you do know there's a built in mechanism that doesn't allow you to select first gear until you're at crawling pace? The trick to get around it is to double the clutch and rev the engine when in neutral with the clutch ENGAGED (clutch pedal out) then select 1st. Works a treat for me!
Im guessing FWD then onroad...
I can tell you now that Venom would not be anywhere near that thing if it was FT front wheel drive! That H6 could spin all four wheels easily on dirt without full throttle before the diffs were changed to 3.7s! It's insane.
All it needs done are the stem seals.
Easier said than done! It would be a good time to replace the water pump and timing belt too if he's taking the heads off to do the job.
As Dave said when loaded to it struggles. Fill the boot, roof and put 5 people in the car plus with the bigger tyres and try going offroad or on a long trip.
But this is natural! The more weight you have the more you have to compensate with your driving technique. You should also be adjusting your driving style accordingly - a heavy vehicle should not be driven hard like a sports car, rather it should be taken easily using part throttle and a good part of the rev range - let the engine do the work but don't push it hard either. "Slow and steady always wins the race"
The engine just needs the seals done to stop the buning oil and while a part clear out some of the carbon build up on the heads and that.
So it's heads off then? I think you'll be very surprised at how little carbon will be on the combustion chamber or the piston top.
Cheers
Bennie
