2006 Outback 3.0R 180kw VDC project

so new car , new project m new plans for it , and gathering new info what could be done witt it and choosing what fits me

what i bought
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how it looked in my yard next day
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changing inside and some outside bulbs to led's
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examples for myself how lift would look with my rims and how bumper cut would look
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so normal steps for me do lift at least as much as in that pic, and then maybe cut bumper
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car how its sits now, how +5cm would look and then +7cm wheel is in the air
would need bigger tires for better look there.
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checked front arches for rust and how it looks, and put some bitumen spray over there , and then put back that plastic cover back
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front grill plasti dipped to black
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how it looks in dark with some lights
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Very tight fit! With tyre flex they may still rub.
 
Yes they still do when driving. I will try to minimize that next day.
 
Some more cutting and tire almost not touching now just if brake and corner its start grind. But if brake with straight wheels and then turn without braking its like just barely some grind comes.
Testing how tire fitd on flex in rear all good its likr just just fits. With clean wheel ok with muddy wheel i duno how it would be. Would clean tire faster then i guess.
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You've got slightly more than a bee's diddle of space there. :)
 
@scalman the car looks good you have made it your own ,

can you not take hammer and dolly to arches to create a bit more room .
 
so what i was thinking for ling time. make front recovery points and hi lift jack lift points. and i found that it can be just bolt on nothing is welded to car itself. just 2 bolts on each side .
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very happy on how it all ended. nothing welded to car. just bolt on. perfect. and i think it will be very strong. next will be rear . and hilift allready went to car in trunk. because will lift and higher tires car now its so high that its no point even try to lift it with normal jack, and i had tried many types before. this much better project then i did on 2001. half job was doen outside in dark with one 10w led light pointed at where i needed it . and it was not too cold outside about 3.5 celcious so that was ok too.
 
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meeting with forester club. going all day around city on tracks mostly mud and water so those winter tires where not best there , but i never got stuck, and others aired down too , and im not i kep full 2.4bar air., thats kinda too much for offroad but i tested it , yes it spins a lot on mud hills but still i got onto everything mostly because or power and torque.
in deep water though i got cilinder misfire errors and after all dried it came back normal, but another water and again errors. but all other stuff perfect.

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how small forester with normal wheels look compare to that giant outback on those wheels.
can be seen water level.. it was deep on one puddle
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That's a good number of cars for a meet up.
 
yes not bad . and it was good test for me. tested that recovery point one time. should look into those sparg plugs on mine, just they more complicated now on H6 , not simple spark plugs anymore. so they afraid of water hmmm ... maybe not all.. i must have one or two that are bad allready there. need change just those ones, not all them. but i loved that power and torque all time i could get it anytime i needed and again much less fuel consumption then would be with 2.5 engine.
and in places where lower foresters where looking for better lines i was just going for most deep tracks and wasnt even scraping anything on my car. and with winter used tires and with full psi not lowered.
i like how cool and big it looks here. used snow tires left only 6mm on rubber hakapelita 7 tires and with 2.4bar psi in them. other foresters where like airing down. i left alone there with so high psi in all group.
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ifg i would put there some proper mud tires same size and aired down thos beats could be unstopable. i get all that torque from low revs allready not like turbo 2.0 forys, or even my last year 2001 outback. i drove it there and i can compare how those 2 cars going there. im so high now that i not even touch my front bumper .
 
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there someone took me when i got trough easier part because i knew i will get cilinder misfire. sometimes i was driving threr just one 3 cilinders sometimes on 4 maybe , then when all was dried i was back on 6. but its problem there that i need to solve.
it was rly easy i was like going on idle revs almost doing nothing.
 
So any ideas why my cilinders misfired after water splashing? Those leads maybe bad that goes to plugs or smt, it cant be that those places are not protected from water there. But then how to know which one. Sometimes i got just cilinder 4 misfire other times 2, 4 or 1,5 or all together. When water dries out car starts work ok again. For some time at least. Its like even driving on road in rain puts cilinder 1,5 misfire .
 
It might be the leads if they are old. Also where is the ignition coil on the H6, maybe it's getting wet?
 
As i understand on h6 engines coils are on every cilinder separate
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And i cant find ignition leads as separate things for sale.
Looks lide leads are just simple leads there so maybe its coil that is bad. And they cost money
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And one cost like 30-80 euros. I mean wow. But maybe i need change just one of them i duno.
Someone said try to change them places and then look which cilinder gets misfire. But its not like i get misfire all times. Or change them places and then go to deep water and look which one will show. Again problem that it can drop like 4 errors for 4 cilinders not just one.
So i duno how to test it which coil is bad and gets water then dont work.
There was weird sound couple times like when coil not working or like spark goes out , some man come to look said that coil is bad and spark goes outside. And it was first cilinder from front of the car on driver side. So which cilinder that is? 4th?

Ok so learning new things
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And what if its cable not coil. Maybe damaged. How to know.im not gonna touch them while car working for sure. Maybe test with voltmeter

Or i got one crazy idea ,on running car take water like in bottle and splash water on all cilinders one buy one and see which one will do error. That would be fast finding which getting messed up when water hits.
 
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Or i got one crazy idea ,on running car take water like in bottle and splash water on all cilinders one buy one and see which one will do error. That would be fast finding which getting messed up when water hits.
That's not a crazy idea at all. You never know, it could be just a matter of a bit of waterproofing with some suitable goop (lanolin? not sure what people use.) If it's running fine when dry, you might solve it by keeping the water away from the electrics, rather than starting to replace them.
Gives you time to save up for replacing them too! ;)
 
yes others told me too to use some goop, we have some here for that, on track we tried to just use WD40 on those place which maybe helped for some time until next water splash and it came again same. so its very fast to go to error, like not even deep puddle and its starts so i duno what cause that for sure. as im using petrol and LPG its acts differently on LPG and on petrol, as on petrol it runs some better , but even with petrol i get errors. i didint get that driving in city not on petrol. so in city that wasnt happening, because LPG guy told me i have one bad LPG injector so the said thats why i get errors because LPG, and while in city i didint got errors on petrol, when i get off road to first deep puddle i got errors then even with petrol , because i used petrol on harder places as it maybe get me little more raw power then LPG , but thats not proved i just think that way.
so yh now i duno maybe other day when i work at night i will try to splash water again when goign on petrol not LPG, and see what happens.
 
Hi @scalman. Your BP looked really good around those Foresters.

As far as I know, the high voltage of modern cars, especially Japanese ones have some sort of shorting protection when saturated with water. This is true with coils, ballasts, etc., and that can be the reason why your car misfired and became OK again after a while. You can use the smoke test to check if you have a broken HT lead and if not, you can just pull the ignition coils and dry them out for a while. The rice method is a good start but you can dry them out in the sun, if you want.

Regarding water-proofing, you can use a contact cleaner and spray it all over whatever opening or joint you can see on the coil or use dielectric grease around the harness contact points. Cheers.
 
so i was pouring and splashing water onto working engine a lot and got just one 4 cilinder misfire. so thats good means is that one ignition coil will be bad or leads to it. so at least not more but just one .

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