2006 Outback 3.0R 180kw VDC project

so new car , new project m new plans for it , and gathering new info what could be done witt it and choosing what fits me

what i bought
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how it looked in my yard next day
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changing inside and some outside bulbs to led's
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examples for myself how lift would look with my rims and how bumper cut would look
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so normal steps for me do lift at least as much as in that pic, and then maybe cut bumper
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car how its sits now, how +5cm would look and then +7cm wheel is in the air
would need bigger tires for better look there.
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checked front arches for rust and how it looks, and put some bitumen spray over there , and then put back that plastic cover back
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front grill plasti dipped to black
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how it looks in dark with some lights
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I haven't encountered an LED tail light bulb yet that can replace the intensity of the incandescent ones. LED replacements are truly falling short when it comes to lux.
 
i tried puting leds in rear lights on my 2001 and it was bad like just half bright maybe and it was not spread but more like on one place . looked bad too.
wonder why they changed interior bulbs on this gen , now they so short bulbs that iu couldnt find led replacement for them and same one goes for low door light or front reading lights and rear passenger. that area inside is so wide there but you can put just small bulb there very short one

trunk one is too dimm , would need more light in trunk so maybe extra leds will be needed , and need to see what model are those short ones

good link to see what bulbs you need and where
so i need 5 bulbs DE3175 and they are 31mm size. so now i know
 
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+25 offset and checked rear in wheel area where its not covered by plastic sprayed with some bitumen for better protection from salt in winter
changed LPG tubes now all of them that goes out
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its just now looks this cool, after lift wheels will go inside more and it will about 2cm more inside again. Well on 2001 it was like this and this have some diff links in front but all same in rear. so i know what to expect from it .just front i dont know so i will see what it will do with lift .
 
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The blututh device is ready to pair...the blututh device is connected...
Best thing to listen all my online radios , online music, youtube ,etc.. no need any modifications to car no wires too.
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Bluetooth is very handy for wireless connections!
 
Ohh answer calls works not bad too. Just microphone not that good on it people say they hear me like from some cave..
 
So lpg converter was bad and it was leaking
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So i changed it to new one different looking but he said better one. And all leaks gone now. Just shame that i couldnt fix that one , its cool looking and its original italian landi renzo.so it was 150 euros for me with job.
Then as we did test on computer found out that one of 6 injectors is not working as it should so with time thar will need to be changed. Hes asking 90 euros for that one but i saw they go about 66 on ebay / amazon
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So yh wont buy it for now will drive like that its goes fine just engine on low rpm works unequal kinda vibrate. But thats fine. At least lpg now working.
 
how to make car sound better louder for cheap :D , just cut some holes before end muffler. i bought car like this , previou owner showed me that and he gave me those peaces that where cut too, so i can pulg them back in and weld if i dont like it. so its nice. i have some louder car, but its only sounds if you dont puch revs too high, meaning if you really doing launch from stop and revs go higher it start sound kinda cheap and not nice anymore. But until some revs its really nice sound.
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removed those 25mm wheel spacers i put other day. without lift its just too wide , tires touching on bumps and car handles differently too, removed them , now all back to normal.
maybe after lift those wheel spacers will work , will see.
 
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I duno need to hear how it would sound then or maybe just plug one.
Later i maybe will try one side delete i mean i hear many ppl saying why those cars need that Y pipe in the end anyways. Just one side is enough i guess.
Still dont know what i will do in rear with lift to protect stuff there. Maybe some skid plate for rear to cover part of bumper lower part so it wouldnt be hooking . I think rear bumper on 2nd gen hangs lower then this i looked and that lower part is kinda on same level as floor so it could be just covered with some strong metal sheet there.
 
extra mudflaps on front from 2001
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and i guess im lucky on self levels on rear, because second outback and again i got self levels in rear
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i found on my 2001 that they work really well with lift spacers, they dont need that extra 1cm lift for rear that some tired normal struts might need , they keeping that height really well, so i guess im lucky there. and i know what to expect from them as well now , they look in good shape as well.
 
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Got package . New leds for interior and door lights. Plus 2 for drl light but those dont seem brighter from those i bought before but they can be less heating there.
And then one t15 w16w i thought will be for reverse but its not that one . I need w21w one wider. But i checked that that t15 w16w fits to t10 w5w socket too so could be used for drl in front. Just it might be problem with heat inside. Will check drl's in dark see how it lights up.
Or maybe use that t15 for trunk light. It has small lense in front so its kida more focused for front.
Map lights are just amazing how much more bright they are. Again not sure how hot they could get
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Started to make front lift spacers . This sheet of metal was 3 euros from metal scrapyard. No plasma cutter or water or lazer , doing it hard way
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was making front lift spacers. couldnt figure out how to make camber offset proper so made that with turn as i saw on some newer foresters
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so now tried just one front spacer and this results. lift on ground , lift with disconnected sway bar how much until wheel lift in the air
that arma looks like its allready touch metal but its not yet it could go some more down yet.
and sway bar link is too short after lift that it would let suspension drop down full so with lift you need longer links then if you want keep sway bar on
yes it was dark allready and i was working outside so with some led lights .
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wheel was in center and turning wheel to both sides wasnt touching anything . so then i welded it proper . and painted . left for night to dry . if tomorow not raining will try to install all 4 wheels then lift , and see how it will go from there.
 
so that lift is in car now. first pic just rear lift and allready was 30cm ground clearance from rear diff. other pics front lift too. allready in dark , so did that fast, still no alignment and drove car 50km there and back now , after 90km.h speed some vibration comes to wheel. not sure aboput camber and alignment still so maybe because that
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I think i need rear trailing arm spacer because hat rear shock will suffer. I got that on my 2001 same and i did nothing about it. But now as those bolts should not be rusted i should make that rear trailing arm spacer i think.
because if not thats how rear shock looks with lift
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so that trailing arm spacer would put all to correct angles again. and that would be good for that poor shocks. it was holding on 2001 for couple years but then those top hats broke eventually. so it would be wise to put that spacer there too.

and car feels less soft now much more stiff on bad roads. and those low profile tires not helping on that too i guess. my BFG ta ko2's from 2001 would be now much better on bad roads then those winters maybe.
driving in city was good still . maybe that half front sway bar still helps some there , so maybe that just one side disconnected is not bad thing to have. for now at least. will try make alignment next day, diy alignment i mean, and see if that vibration to wheel on high speed will be gone or not.
 
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And maybe its just feeling but when i put wheel spacers before lif i felt same thing, when you drive its kinda more harsh ride like tires would be overaired , and without wheel spacers it was back to normal so not sure why it feels this way, and today i look at car and that rear looks like its lifted even more, kinda looks like wheels are too small now, front looks more kinda ok though, and i think now front wheels touching those mud flaps that i put.
Those larger rims on 2005 still smaller in size compared to my 2001 ta ko2 wheels
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Just thinking what best way to make those trailing arm spacers like from some tubes i saw somewhere, but if they not connected still ok i do i need to make it as one thing better.

so from lifted 2001 to lifted 2005.
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seems like there is no need touch rear bumper at all, but for front would be nice to modify it
 
now i know why my front lift is different by almost 1cm more on driver side, because driver side disconnected from sway bar ... so link itself is 60mm , and on driver side now gap is 70mm , and driver side lifted more because of that too. so i guess 2 new 65mm links would do job , i allready found something similar that is 65mm from from galant VI model same just little longer then subaru ones. or i need to disconnect other side too and then measure that properly maybe i need longer, but its hard to find this model link but 70mm long. i saw 80mm long ones, but nothing there at 70mm just 65mm.
i kinda thought about it and seems you could put longer link too but then it would kinbda lift car even more , well it would be on tension from sway bar but to other side, and if its too short link its taking car lower to ground and you loose some of lift height. so lino need to be just right height, and that original one 60mm is not fits anymore. then i think some bmw 5 models have similar ones that are 66mm i think lenght. thouse would work maybe too.
 
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