2006 Outback 3.0R 180kw VDC project

so new car , new project m new plans for it , and gathering new info what could be done witt it and choosing what fits me

what i bought

how it looked in my yard next day

changing inside and some outside bulbs to led's

examples for myself how lift would look with my rims and how bumper cut would look

so normal steps for me do lift at least as much as in that pic, and then maybe cut bumper

car how its sits now, how +5cm would look and then +7cm wheel is in the air
would need bigger tires for better look there.

checked front arches for rust and how it looks, and put some bitumen spray over there , and then put back that plastic cover back

front grill plasti dipped to black

how it looks in dark with some lights

 

[scalman]

Its black ,its white , which looks better.
And yes i drive now like this untill i decide

 

[scalman]

 

[Ben Up North]

That's the 15" wheels yeah?

 

[scalman]

Yup good old forester rims at least i think they forester style ones

 

[scalman]

 

[scalman]

and still on same day

 

[scalman]

time to relocate those hi lift mount points , recovery points higher . found good place just under that aluminum peace

so now i can lift all front as well , still made those side mounts, maybe they will be more like recovery points.

 

[scalman]

and those leds full beam made it to oem fog lights switch so now even more light if i would need it not on road

 

[scalman]

so back to small winter tires, how those look with cut bumper and why cut bumper at all, well for situations like those, you aproach some obstacle and if its not too high but high enough to stop you with full bumper , but with ever less then half of it you just getting enough room there to just drive forward without even touching anything

 

[scalman]

So one problem on those models when you want to cut fron bumper that on driver side that washer tank will hang there just outside unprotected at all and it looks weird too. So i found some kind of solution for that, insted of keeping it vertical like oem , put it there horizontal and as much press it up as its possible.
And result is pretty nice i think

It ms almost not hanging out now and it would be pretty hard now to like catch it on something there
So how i did it, well i relocated intake and closed oem intake and i cut off most of oem mounting brackets as they dont fit anymore but i will mount it properly there , for now just test drive on zip ties

 

[scalman]

still bad time for me with those 235/75r15 wheels there in rear. its just not good . yes with 25mm wheel spacers , but then 7cm lift as well. but it wont free those arches there no matter what, need not so wide tires there i guess as abith sides my plastic fender went off there after some diagonals off road . thats not good.

 

[scalman]

brackets for washer fluid tank

 

[scalman]

bonnet strut from SH forester. just need to make or get 2 corner brackets, and thats all, bottom fits on outback screw on wing with little modification

 

[scalman]

Spring , whats going on there ?...

new engine oil Motul 8100 x-power 10w60 , first time tried this kind, engine feels more smooth and drives kinda better. well this oil kinda make more oil preasure there faster , other stuff too, so i guess it feels, i can feel difference from earlier 10w30 for sure.
new diffs oils as well, new filters.

 

[Ratbag]

Personally, I wouldn't use an oil thicker than 5W-40 FS. Specially not in a country cold enough to get snow on the ground.

10W is too viscous to quickly lubricate everything at startup in the cold, and 60 could cause excessive pressure on gaskets at operating temperatures.

5W-40 is good for about -30°C to +45°C ambient.

Just FWIW. I'm not an automotive engineer.

 

[scalman]

it was recomended by some people who doing some motorsports localy and fixing subarus as well, like this oil not gonna burn like at all too. and read some comments who used those oils on subarus, well more on turbo models , and they pretty happy with it. so will see.
and cold car still kinda not drives , so its something about that cold there, i still couldnt find , but maybe all its left now is gearbox there.why cold car is like doesnt wanna drive and at first change gears in wierd way until it gets warmer, i dont believe for engine itself its anything bad in cold, so must be that gearbox then, engine starts and engine raises revs no prob , then you start drive and for first minute you can feel it doesnt wanna drive kinda. but then in warm day its no prob even from cold start. so yh. maybe that gearbox oil i picked is not good enough for it , or something wrong there with those solenoids there. i thought after change oils i would feel difference , and i did felt it at first on warm engine, but that cold problem still there seems like. still car drives better now after oils change meaning it drives better on higher gear it can drive at certain speeds better then it did before. i mean i know very well how my car drives at what gears at what speeds and if something changes there i can feel it right away like at 3rd gear and going 50kmp speed can it accelerate ok from there without dropping gear down. so i remember stuff like those so i can see is it gone better or worse. uphills too.
and first day after changing oil i didint get any errors as well, but then later i got them, i mean again that cyl 2 missfire. but then those 02 rear sensors showing too high voltage there, at least on one catalyst sometimes it shows over 1.2v , sometimes 0.7v .and for good mix it should be like 0.45-0.65v .

 

[Ben Up North]

Turbo motors run hotter as a rule don't they?

cold car still kinda not drives ,

Need a 5W for that over a 10W then don't you?

 

[scalman]

Turbo motors run hotter as a rule don't they?

Need a 5W for that over a 10W then don't you?

Well no, it was that old oil and it was same , so as i said then its not engine thing probably. If car is left for some time not overnighy for couple hrs its still starts and drives fine. Its just when its getting cold or smt. Still could be fuel system maybe though petrol shouldnt be affected by cold.
and engine itself starts ok it revs ok, so why its engine problem, all just when i put it in D and start to drive, though not all days as well. if engine dont have problems to rev , then it gives that rev moment to torque convertor i guess and then to solenoids in gearbox and then all magic with gears happens, i think somehwere in that procces i have problems , again not allways so go figure, and i got eralier solenoid D errors and gearbox was not fine , after i just chenaged oil, again not to subaru oem oil but to as it was said its fits to that oem number. so maybe its just fixed some of that solenoid work but didint fixed main problem.. who knows...im just waiting warm wheater and i will do some more searching under car.
Again its no point for me here repeating myself over and over , for now i wont change anything ,though i see and feel some changes in car after i changed oil, well and spark plugs

 

[scalman]

new tires, they muds, not too loud but they are heard inside for sure

 

[Kevin]

Very chunky! Are they a local brand?