2006 Outback 3.0R 180kw VDC project

so new car , new project m new plans for it , and gathering new info what could be done witt it and choosing what fits me

what i bought
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how it looked in my yard next day
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changing inside and some outside bulbs to led's
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examples for myself how lift would look with my rims and how bumper cut would look
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so normal steps for me do lift at least as much as in that pic, and then maybe cut bumper
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car how its sits now, how +5cm would look and then +7cm wheel is in the air
would need bigger tires for better look there.
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checked front arches for rust and how it looks, and put some bitumen spray over there , and then put back that plastic cover back
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front grill plasti dipped to black
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how it looks in dark with some lights
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So i think if i would know subar models track then i would know which has wider track and which shorter . Well legacy track must be same as outbacks , so then impreza ones must be narrower track and if they all uses same diffs in rear means axles must be longer and shorter , thats for normal models i mean not wrx ones. Just need to find those numbers about track
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outback 2005 rear track is 58.7
Outback 2001 is 57.7
so in half for each side its 0.5 inch which is 1.27cm which is what i measured there . So if that correct then all i need to find narrower track subaru and use axle from it.
Impreza 2001 rear track 57.1 so thats 2cm shorter on each side. So imprezas axle should be good then i guess.
Or i could try first with what i have 2001 axle that is about 1.2cm shorter not sure how that would help but i wont know unless i try.
 
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so found forester 1998 rear cv axle which looked like its shorter then newer one but it had some longer CV there, but i need just axle with diff CV , and i will need to put on it my 2005 outback rear wheel CV
so i think those will be both shorter now, and of those too short or anything i could use 2001 outback rear axles those are some shorter too, about 1.2cm
and bought new wheel bearing for rear too as one was bad . so bought 2 just in case for later times
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and front cv axle is longer too on 2005 from 2001
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rear wheel bearing changed too. and cv axles dont fit from earlier years. as that cv what is by wheel dont fit . so now its no way to put there shorter axel.
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if i could make for top link larger holes and push wheel straight and bottom links could be modified , but top one which is bump stop could not not be changed sadly. so only holes maybe could be moved more outside.
 
good for now, still holding on 7cm lift there. fixed sterring pump whine , cleaned a bit engine area. looks nice sounds nice too. now silent on exhaust so all i hear is engine sound . no money stil lfor other tires more agressive AT or even MT i would like to try them for sure.
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yh its not bad , wanted to check my steering pump and it got bad sound , changed o ring and put more new oil in it, for moment it fixed but it got some leak looks like from where those tubes connect to steering rack and its no way to reach there with keys try to tighten them up, so tight in there, so will see how it goes now , more leaks or less. some noise comes from pump i think or from those other gears that spin with belt there. not sure when and if ever they changed there. but prices are weird, belt is just 10 euros , but then those gears are like cost a lot.
would be nice to have even heavier intake sound there. wonder if i remove those extra bags that are on intake it would be louder or not.

i mean this sound when fully turn wheels is because power steering pump i think ?
 
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3rd time i almost got it on that sandy hill but maybe too fast and too much preasure on CV angles and such as when rear drops down fully cv axle hits its limits and pushes fully inside as much as it can. not healthy for those axles but who knows how long they hold like this. as when rear wheel goes up it goes more outside with that gives axle space its fine but when it goes down it goes inside and with that axle pushes inside and hits limit. Not much could be done there, other then custom links all 3 of them
 
now for sounds that i dont like, listen couple times they come up whats making those clicking metal ringing sounds there ?
like is it axles because they reach limit on angle or its something else maybe worned out . like drive shaft , can it be it doing noises. or rear diff bushings i have them bad can they make this sound .
 
Sounds like something hitting the brake shields probably thrown up by the spinning wheels
 
One guy said its front axles. As when we tried spin front wheels when car is lifted and wheels dropped down seems like then front axles allready starting to bite kinda locking a little on one turn.
 
Since day i bought this car there was no day that it would work good mean without putting error codes on me. First it was just cilinder missfires because lpg injector but now it puts cilinder missfire on petrol too. Then radiator leaks for no reason and steering rack started leak for no reason as well. So when i think about older 2001 on 2.5 engine it was almost no problem there to drive at first. This engine is so picky about everything fuel mixture becomes bad for any small reason there. Well maybe not small but its hard to figure out what it wants from me. And sadly no money to just fix all that buying new parts. And no money for new tires.
 
That is not good news! Hang in there as we all are loving what you do with your vehicles! Wish I had a H6! Won't be able to buy a H6 soon :(
 
Thank you. :) Well i will manage somehow, just all for h6 costs more like power steering pump asked on scrapyard how much used 100 euros used for 2.5 just 40 euros. Wonder how much used radiator.
Spark plugs for 2.5 where like 1-3 euros now its 10 euros one ngk spark plug and we need 6 for this engine haha. Wonder will it fix missfire cilinder error or its not spark plug problem at all .still would be good to know that they all new there.
 
, just all for h6 costs more like
It sure does. Even more for a 27 year old H6 :(
But they sound sooooo good. :)
The EG33 is Porsche's finest engine according to some I've read. Not bad considering Porsche had nothing to do with it. :ROFLMAO:
 
Just i would like to hear more from exhaust too. Saw video with rear muffler deleted it sounded good. And its easy mod to try. And why we have in rear 2 huge mufflers do we need 2 but they comming from one pipe still they not going separate 2 from engine so is there point why they put there 2 ? Saw some people doing just one on one side.
 
seems like those longer front sway bar links where not made for subaru tension. one time i drove harder that i put last video here and seems like they went off. not broke but this
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i mean how can they hold there in this configuration, no way. so put back oems. seems holding ok. but sure i didint tried OEM ones on hard diagonal pounding, so not sure how they would hold , but i will try soon.
found some old tubes from exhaust and ends from my previous remus muffler that i sold with car which was stupid move, so i will try to delete those both rear mufflers and just put straight pipe but one one one side and see how it will sound.
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i mean its nice tubes coming from catalysts and middle part but then in rear they split somehow in 2 parts and into much smaller diameter tubes, why not make one tube till end same diameter there ? it would be much easier to breath i think. well i will try it for sound first.
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if i would just do something like this
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i heard without rear mufflers H6 sounds kinda fine, not sure how i would like it or not , that would be seen still, thats why i wont modify oems in any way so i could allways put them back
 
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so my 20 min mufflers delete job before after sound and inside car sound. it doesnt sound too loud at all, its only picking up on reving up, on low rev constant speed you cant even tell that something different. i will add later proper end to it , will look like oem just on one side

i just cut it there before it comes to split in two
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