Well I haven't read this in a while - been busy
And "the new" L series is in for it's second RWC check today with the hope that everything's now sorted.
I'd go L series low range, L series 1-4 gears, 4.44:1 diffs with LSD front & 12kg centre.
I'd be checking your gearbox ratios - 1st to 4th, you might find them not much different from your current gearbox setup. Subaru had the setup of just playing with diff ratios to suit the tyre diametre rather than producing 50 different gear sets for different ratios. Really the only difference is the turbo and non turbo gearboxes. There are (I think) 3 different sets of 5th gear ratios out there...
when combined with your SC & rear LSD or locker, you would have a beast that could push Venoms beast off its perch
WISHFUL THINKING my friend!
But that would be a good setup for a 4 banger and no centre diff lock!
Im thinking keep my stock gears 1-5 (repalce 1st gear), new syncros 1-3, dual syncro on 1st. Fix reverse from popping out, front geared LSD, replace centres (stuffed already) with a 12 or 20kg, im leaning more towards 20kg.
Go for the 12kg centre, the 20kg makes daily driving a pig of an exercise from what I've heard. Gee (Bratgeebah ausubi) had a 12kg special ordered from STi Japan - cost was about $1200 plus shipping and import tax/GST!
Keep my 4.11 diffs as with more power to come one way or another 4.44 would be a waste of torque as mentioned many times.
Not a waste of toque, it'll multiply the torque and use it over a smaller area of wheel rotation in relation to speed. Waste of money possibly as you'll be revving higher on the freeway etc unless you're after a semi dedicated offroader I'd stick with your current 4.11 unless you're going to run a 29 or 31 inch tyre... I dunno if you can get a 30 inch, never looked into it plus you've still got to clear the strut spring seat!
It would be nice if it could do what Venoms could!
That's the aim of the game isn't it?
Just so while my foz is being fixed I have something to drive then when its fixed either kill it, sell it or keep it.
To kill it drive without oil or coolant... Otherwise have fun trying!
Im trying to tell myself im not going to mod it other than a tacho and possibly abit better stereo.
I'm finding this VERY hard to believe!
i wouldnt kill it seems a waste of a subaru, one day l series will become rare
They already are - you don't find them too often in the parts yards anymore, not like you did 3 years ago, maybe a sign of the times as people hang onto their older cars??
I always reckoned that Subaru should have kept this body shape when they released my Impreza (1993). Of course, they sorta did when they released the Forester ...
They did, you could still buy a brand new off the showroom floor L series in 1994! This is what Beigewagon is now the new proud owner of
Your definition of a rocket? Are we talking a WWI prototype or a new supersonic long range unit???
So today I took out the O2 sensor but it doesnt look fouled up.
Can anyone tell me if these look ok?
Can't tell by looks, you need to probe it while it's in operation, make sure it's getting the voltage it should be and that it's giving readings within spec. From memory that's how it goes anyway.
These little buggers will create issues and not throw a code. VERY frustrating. A new bosch replacement should be about $70-$90 and can be worth the coin simply for your fuel economy!
I also cleaned out the PCV valve & hoses. There was quite a lot of gunk in there but they didnt seem blocked. When I cleaned the PCV valve, it seemed to rattle easily, so I think thats ok. From what I've read, blocked hoses/valve seem to be the cause of problems, but mine werent, just gunked up a bit.
For a ~$15 part it's worth swapping the PC valve as this is a replaceable item EVERY YEAR! according to subaru maintenance schedules. But no one does them as they should.
Interesting note, there was some kind of hardened sealant on the valve thread...does this mean its been replaced at some stage?
Possibly, it's hard to say without having seen it.
Is there anything else I should do? I get 11L/100kms with gentle, economical driving which is pretty crap! I used to get 10 or better...
To me this points to the O2 sensor. Also check your air filter
im jealous of use in WA our whole road worthy certificate process cost about 500 itself!
No, it now costs $170-$190, it used to be ~$75! Now they take photos of the car in the workshop, brakes, engine, etc etc, then document every thing and hold these records for 7 years due to Vicroads wanting to keep records for some reason!
Then there's a $45 inspection booking fee, which I've found out also covers you for non-registered vehicle permit for the day of your booking.
And lets not forget our trusty state government getting their fingers into your wallet - stamp duty! After all of that you've got your registration which the cost depends on where you live...
To be continued - too many characters!
