What have you done to your car today?

Clutch slave cylinder arrived in the mail today from America. I get the SS hose tomorrow.

22mm rear Whiteline sway bar arrived today also with heavy duty endlinks for front and rear. That's all going in tomorrow. Slave cylinder will be swapped in on the weekend.

Horray, finally my Forester wont have such shocking understeer and body roll.
 
Dropped into the dealer to pick up some stuff in the car. Not sure why bonnet would be open, as nothing under the bonnet needs doing- maybe to let in light IF they are doing the exhaust. Not happy that a broom was leaning against the car though. Spoke to the mechanic about the rear diff. It was sent away to be done, but before they did they found bits of metal inside it.
 
Dropped off the front strut blocks to have the internal diameter increased from 114mm to 124mm.
Pick up tomorrow!
 
Picked up the front strut blocks.
Hole now 124mm diameter, so should fit over strut mounts OK.
Hope to fit next week.

Yes, 'will post pics!'
 
Supposed to get car back tomorrow, but when they put the new rear diff in, there was still a noise. Tuesday at the earliest. Who knows- might get a new gearbox out of it yet! Only downside is I have to drive the WRX all round town. I guess it could be worse.
 
Rally said:
Supposed to get car back tomorrow, but when they put the new rear diff in, there was still a noise. Tuesday at the earliest ..... Only downside is I have to drive the WRX all round town.
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Yes I can really see the downside of that.

Regards
Mr Turbo
 
Routine Maintenance

Had the oil changed (2nd) and tires rotated per Subaru schedule. Have over 7000 miles now and getting 25+ mpg combined. Can get over 33 mpg (on display) going straight from pump to highway and driving 5-10 mph under posted speeds.
 
Charlie now fully lifted!

Had the subtlsolutions lift kit fitted on Friday, following which the tyres were rotated (front to back), the ones going on the front re-balanced, and then the wheels were aligned.

2inchlift-rightrear.jpg


Subtlesolutions2inchtotallift1Large.jpg


2inchlift-rightfront.jpg



With the combination of longer KingSprings and 1" lift the camber isn't quite within spec:
  • FRONT - a bit of positive camber;
  • REAR - a bit of negative camber.
I will rotate a bit more frequently (~7K klms, rather than 10K) and hopefully this will minimise any problems.

The need for longer sway bar connectors is also obvious, and will be the next task.

The ride is noticeably firmer, but not harsh. ;) Also the additional 1" / 25mm of lift is much more visibly noticeable than that from the longer springs alone. :cool: :lildevil: :monkeydance:
 
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Positive camber is not a good thing at all. Have they maxed out the adjustment on it? There are kits available to correct this if they have.
 
Rally said:
Positive camber is not a good thing at all. Have they maxed out the adjustment on it? There are kits available to correct this if they have.
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Yes, has been maxed out. Even took off the wheels and adjusted the top bolt. (You can see I'm not that good on the technical stuff! :biggrin: )

If anyone can point me at a kit I'd be MOST appreciative!
 
I don't know who does that stuff in Melbourne, but there are suspension specialists who should be able to do it. But it could be expensive. In motorsport we use adjustable strut tops, which can give both more camber and castor. You might be able to get away with different camber pins which should be cheaper. But with the money you'll be burning on tyres, they should pay for themselves. I think someone on this forum is in the Victorian WRX Club- they could point you in the right direction.
 
Rally said:
Positive camber is not a good thing at all. Have they maxed out the adjustment on it? There are kits available to correct this if they have.
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Barry said:
Yes, has been maxed out. Even took off the wheels and adjusted the top bolt. (You can see I'm not that good on the technical stuff! :biggrin: )

If anyone can point me at a kit I'd be MOST appreciative!
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Do you have extra spacers where cross members (front and rear) are? (from chassis rail to cross member)
Cheers
AP
 
AlpineRaven said:
Do you have extra spacers where cross members (front and rear) are? (from chassis rail to cross member)
Cheers
AP
Click to expand...
AP,
The vehicle is stock, apart from the strut lift, front & rear King Sprigs and KYB rear shocks.

Given that the outback is essentially a Liberty / Legacy with a 2" 'body lift', I presume it would have such spacers. If this is the case, are you suggesting that I could have the holes (e.g. in the cross member) adjusted to compensate for the camber?

Sounds feasible to my simple technical brain.

A couple of queries:
  • Is it possible to remove / re-install the cross-member without removing the engine?
  • If so, I guess I could pick up a second hand cross member, have the holes realigned, and do a straight swap.
  • I presume I would also need:
- new spacers, drilled at the correct angle to allow the bolts to mate correctly with the re-located holes in the cross-member; and
- washers with a 'wedge' cross section to provide a mating surface between the bolt heads / nuts and the chassis rail / cross member.
​
Or am I barking up the wrong tree?
 
Barry said:
AP,
The vehicle is stock, apart from the strut lift, front & rear King Sprigs and KYB rear shocks.

Given that the outback is essentially a Liberty / Legacy with a 2" 'body lift', I presume it would have such spacers. If this is the case, are you suggesting that I could have the holes (e.g. in the cross member) adjusted to compensate for the camber?

Sounds feasible to my simple technical brain.

A couple of queries:
  • Is it possible to remove / re-install the cross-member without removing the engine?
  • If so, I guess I could pick up a second hand cross member, have the holes realigned, and do a straight swap.
  • I presume I would also need:
- new spacers, drilled at the correct angle to allow the bolts to mate correctly with the re-located holes in the cross-member; and
- washers with a 'wedge' cross section to provide a mating surface between the bolt heads / nuts and the chassis rail / cross member.
​
Or am I barking up the wrong tree?
Click to expand...

Nah, whatever you've installed like extra 1 or 2 - 3 inches, you will need to install spacers between chassis and cross member - no holes required as you will already have a spacer there.

Engine not required to be removed. You will need a jack under the engine to support as well car stands under the body.

Best option is to remove old spacer and install 2 or 3" spacer - then it will solve the cumber issues.
Cheers
AP
 
AlpineRaven said:
Nah, whatever you've installed like extra 1 or 2 - 3 inches, you will need to install spacers between chassis and cross member - no holes required as you will already have a spacer there.

Engine not required to be removed. You will need a jack under the engine to support as well car stands under the body.

Best option is to remove old spacer and install 2 or 3" spacer - then it will solve the cumber issues.
Cheers
AP
Click to expand...

AP, apart from changing the height of the cross member relative to the chassis, and the steering geometry, does it change any other relationships between body and mechanicals? :confused:

If not, it sounds 'too easy' :)

Hopefully this will assist others with similar issues.
 
Barry
The only thing you might run in to is the steering linkage will need to be longer when doing the body lift on mine I need to lift at the rear sub-frame, and trailing arm mounts, transmission cross member, engine cross member, the control arm mounts,.

Nate
 
tinknocker07 said:
Barry
The only thing you might run in to is the steering linkage will need to be longer when doing the body lift on mine I need to lift at the rear sub-frame, and trailing arm mounts, transmission cross member, engine cross member, the control arm mounts,.

Nate
Click to expand...

I forgot to add about steering linkage as well.
I will draw up a pic why and what will happen if you install the blocks. Once you install the blocks the cucumber is pushed put to positive angle.
Cheers
AP
 
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