What have you done to your car today?

Had the muffler replaced on the forester today, for something a bit more free flowing. nice burble at idling revs, but it's a bit farty at normal revs (well that's what it sounds like inside the car).
I'm still concerned about the temperature of the engine, might take it in next week if I can get it squeezed in.

Got the SVX registered too. o_O
 
duncanm said:
.. or use some oxalic acid from your local hardware store. a millionty times cheaper.
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So that wont eat aluminum at all? Just other nasty stuff?
 
Not today but yesterday: I mounted a Garmin 56 dash cam on to my windshield. I was supposed to buy one this Boxing Day but my siblings beat me to it.

Also, I haven't removed the Japanese toll road system from my SG5 and since my car greets me in the morning during the first start, when I first started my car yesterday, it said, "Meri Kurisumasu!" I realised that the date in my car is still spot on. The toll-road system must have some sort of a backup battery to be able to keep the proper date like that.
 
Some routine maintenance today.

New oil and filter, and I replaced the hose clamps on the TMIC silicon pipes with some better hose clamps (Norma) after one blew off a couple of weeks back. It wasn't very nice getting that bugger back on on the side of the road with just a screwdriver and a hot engine.
 
I cleaned/polished my headlights because I noticed a few nights ago that the light emitted was somewhat diffused, especially on the left-hand-side.

About a year ago, I used 1K clear coat hoping that it would last but it didn't.
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I sanded down the clear coat and polished the headlights properly, then used Seal N' Shine as a sealant as it is UV stabilised. I am trying this method as the sealant is relatively cheap. I will check after my reapplication in about 3 to 4 months if this method is working, otherwise, a UV-stabilised paint protection film will be installed/applied as it is proven to last longer than other methods. I noticed, however, that headlight restorers here just use sealant instead of paint protection film.
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very interesting to hear clearcoat didn't work - was it UV resisting ? I have the same dreaded headlight fog, and need to do something, was about to use a spray can of UV-resistant wood varnish.

Other option is just sand / polish and use the bottle of all-purpose PTFE marine polish (starbright) I've got lying around, which also claims UV resistance.
 
It was a UV-resistant 1K clear coat. Some are saying that 2K will work better but some in the trade are also saying that the yellowing with the clear coats start with their reaction with the plastic lens. I may have had a better run with a properly-polished lens with the old Turtle Wax paste wax with 3-monthly reapplications. Now I am curious how the sealant will hold up. Cheers.
 
I've used #2 cutting polish followed by Porzelack polish (high carnauba wax content).

Don't get the cutting polish on the normal paintwork!

This appears to work for about a year.
 
Good to know that it lasted about a year. It feels much cleaner to have wax/sealant on the headlights instead of the clear coat. Cheers.
 
They are looking quite scungey again. Must be at least two years (or a bit more) since I last did them.

Bought some highly expensive stuff at SCA, but the sandpaper approach put me off using it.

I will try to remember to do some before and after photos.
 
I just use toothpaste to clear up my lights. Comes up well & smells nice & fresh.
Was going to use a clear coat next time, but from your comments I'll give it a miss.
Greensuby
 
GS, I found that toothpaste is nowhere near as effective as the cutting polish, and didn't last as long as the Porzelack finishing coat.
 
Ratbag said:
They are looking quite scungey again. Must be at least two years (or a bit more) since I last did them.

Bought some highly expensive stuff at SCA, but the sandpaper approach put me off using it.

I will try to remember to do some before and after photos.
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Haha. The sandpaper part is the one that usually makes us lazy but is very mandatory. I cross-hatched the different grits. I used the method below:
  • 600 grit - The longest part. I had to make sure the yellowing and the previous clear coat is gone - horizontal sanding.
  • 800 grit - Vertical sanding. I turned on the headlights occasionally to check that the horizontal marks are gone
  • 1200 grit - Diagonal sanding.
  • 1500 grit - Horizontal or vertical sanding. Again I turned on the the headlights occasionally so I could see that the diagonal sanding from the previous grit is gone.
  • Farecla G3 rubbing compound on Meguiar's red rubbing pad using a DA polisher
  • Meguiar's plastic polish on Meguiar's polishing foam using the same DA polisher - At this point the headlights are extremely shiny and smooth but we still need a UV sealant/film.
  • Alcohol bath using 70% laboratory grade ethanol
  • Turtle Wax Seal N' Shine as the sealant. A UV-stabilised paint protection film is the sure option but the sealant may work as it sticks like crazy to the paintwork.
Ratbag said:
GS, I found that toothpaste is nowhere near as effective as the cutting polish, and didn't last as long as the Porzelack finishing coat.
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Yes, the polish/finishing coat makes sure that there isn't refraction/diffusion on the surface at a microscopic level. Toothpaste can remove the yellowing but it won't be as smooth as rubbing and polishing. Cheers.
 
Thanks for that very detailed process description. I think my system is heaps easier. Particularly when it comes to redoing it every few years ... :poke: :nod:.
 
I helped my brother replace his coolant with Penrite 50/50 blue but it seemed that the fluid is not as stable as it should be so we immediately replaced it with the Subaru genuine Motul Auto Cool Professional. I don't recommend the blue one from Penrite. It looked like it was just tinted water. On the other hand, the genuine fluid exhibited fluid engineering as it is extremely stable.
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We also did our periodic Get Thru supply run. HD springs would help but I don't load the car this much all the time.
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^ What is the "contraption" you are using to fill the coolant?
 
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