What have you done to your car today?

Thanks for that Kevin, I'll have to look into it more soon, definitely before Flinders. I'm thinking my spare battery will sit in the rear foot well as well.

Regards,

Joel
 
After 5 and a bit years of faithful first start, every start service, the Oreiginal Battery gave up today (I was at home luckily). So a new battery.
 
eden said:
5 years is pretty good. what did you get to replace it?
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NRMA Premium one - 600 CCA, $187. That's all I know about it (Sorry)
 
Had one fitted by the NRMA in Tamworth one fateful Sunday morning last November. NRMA was the only available option at the time.
The NRMA only carry one type that fits the Outback, as it has smaller diameter than standard battery clamps.
It is a sealed battery with a 5 year warranty - although not sure how I'd go about claiming on it south of the border.
 
Barry said:
Had one fitted by the NRMA in Tamworth one fateful Sunday morning last November. NRMA was the only available option at the time.
The NRMA only carry one type that fits the Outback, as it has smaller diameter than standard battery clamps.
It is a sealed battery with a 5 year warranty - although not sure how I'd go about claiming on it south of the border.
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Same here (except they now only have a 3 year warranty) (I had to go somewhere so took mums Forester). Mum said it was the only one that fitted, and the one I've now got has the best CCA Rating. I must sound like a moron not knowing anything about this :o

I didn't realise that was the reason why there was only one option (wasn't here to talk to NRMA) but the new one seems the best of the 'Available '(according to their website) options.
 
I boosted her Ego when we pulled a Dodge Dakota 4 door 4X4 out of the mud hole that I then drove my still un-lifted Leggy though :lildevil:


My 2000 Leggy :yourock:

I keep My camera in the car now :biggrin:


Nate
 
aware said:
I must sound like a moron not knowing anything about this :o
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Not at all; we were all young and inexperienced at some time.

5 years is a really good run; I got about 18 months out of both my Outback and Foz OEM batteries before they started to play up; they were Panasonic.
 
Getting 5 years out of your OEM battery is quite good. I got just under that from mine.
Dead batteries are a P.I.T.A at the best of times, but it's better to have it go at home, than out in the bush somewhere I say. :iconwink:

Regards
Mr Turbo
 
Kevin said:
Not at all; we were all young and inexperienced at some time.

5 years is a really good run; I got about 18 months out of both my Outback and Foz OEM batteries before they started to play up; they were Panasonic.
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Interesting. In our previous MY01 RS it lasted about 2.5 years, then gave up completely (and at school when mum was picking me up of all places :rolleyessarcastic: )

mr turbo said:
Getting 5 years out of your OEM battery is quite good. I got just under that from mine.
Dead batteries are a P.I.T.A at the best of times, but it's better to have it go at home, than out in the bush somewhere I say. :iconwink:

Regards
Mr Turbo
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Completely agree.

I knew it was bound to happen relatively soon, as it had been getting harder to start first thing in the morning. Then leaving Uni it just started, but didn't sound too good on startup (i.e. I was actually surprised it started). Then of course the lights weren't as bright as usual. Parked it for less than 5 minutes and that was it. I just didn't get to replace it early enough.
 
I had an interesting time the past two days. RH engine mount on the H6 has been broken for a while, my first solution was to try to tighten the nut through the cross member. I rounded the nuts and thought "fkc" what am i going to do when i get the replacement. Replacement arrive and like a moron i has ordered the LH side?! Attempt 2 i ordered RH side and figured i will replace both. So this weekend had to deal with rounded nut, located up in the crossmember between steering rack, behind headers and sway bar. Pain in the buttock. I could not get vice grips on it, and the set of nut cracker sockets i got where just stripping metal. Solution was to sit under the car for half a day and file away one side of the nut. This worked and two new engine mounts are now in, no more squeeks and shuddering in gear changes.

Tension pulley bearing has also been playing up. I have now replaced both the idler and tension pulley bearing and the serpentine belt while i was at it. New platinum plugs have also gone in, the oldies were baked to hell. Also replaced RH rocker cover gasket, still very slight leak but nowhere near as bad as it was.

Kart boy gear stick bushes are in the mail, looking forward to getting those.

Cheers,
Rhys
 
Not sure how many people are aware of them, but when you have rounded off the hex, you can still remove the nut/bolt with what is know as a flank frive socket. This socket, unlike normal sockets, bears against the flat of the hex, not the point like normal sockets do. A friend came to me upset because in trying to remove the axle shaft (no IRS) he had rounded off one of the 4 nuts that retain the axle. I went down with my flank drives sockets and removed the nut straight away. They are a single hex socket, with the corners of the hex cut back comapred to a normal single hex. Worth their weight in gold


Venom said:
I had an interesting time the past two days. RH engine mount on the H6 has been broken for a while, my first solution was to try to tighten the nut through the cross member. I rounded the nuts and thought "fkc" what am i going to do when i get the replacement. Replacement arrive and like a moron i has ordered the LH side?! Attempt 2 i ordered RH side and figured i will replace both. So this weekend had to deal with rounded nut, located up in the crossmember between steering rack, behind headers and sway bar. Pain in the buttock. I could not get vice grips on it, and the set of nut cracker sockets i got where just stripping metal. Solution was to sit under the car for half a day and file away one side of the nut. This worked and two new engine mounts are now in, no more squeeks and shuddering in gear changes.

Tension pulley bearing has also been playing up. I have now replaced both the idler and tension pulley bearing and the serpentine belt while i was at it. New platinum plugs have also gone in, the oldies were baked to hell. Also replaced RH rocker cover gasket, still very slight leak but nowhere near as bad as it was.

Kart boy gear stick bushes are in the mail, looking forward to getting those.

Cheers,
Rhys
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Yeah bugger Venom! Glad you've got it sorted now.

In other news my check engine light came on today - codes 21, 22, 24, 31 and 13. It sounds like I don't look after my subi but its quite the opposite. I don't know what has triggered these codes but I had 2 before I came up to the snow - one of them was eliminated when I replaced the coolant sensor, but now it is back - code 21 :evil:

Now the fun begins with trying to remedy these codes without shelling out for new sensors just yet!

Cheers

Bennie
 
Gave my Forry an oil & filter change today. :)
Now it's ready for next w-ends camping trip with the Subaru & Recreational 4WD Club. :ebiggrin:

Regards
Mr Turbo
 
Found that the Forrie has a rear diff whine. Meanwhile, the WRX has had a brain transplant and while it is too early to give a difinitive judgement, it seems much smoother. Now that it has launch control and anti lag, it might be a bit more fun to drive. Unfortunately, it might be time for a new turbo
 
Had front King Springs & KYB Excel-G's fitted today (rears were done 2 months back). So now I'm running all new suspension. Woo! :discomonkey:

I kept the front at standard height (still is a tad higher than stock) but put 30mm raised springs in the back. Now when I have 100kg of camping gear in the back it sits perfectly flat. I can't stand seeing uneven space in the wheel arches.

ps: to Rally - I had what I thought was the dreaded diff whine - but it ended up being the bearings so it all worked out quite cheap in the end. I hope it's just your bearings.

Now I just need to do a gearbox oil change, an all round belt replacement and a fuel filter and I've done my 150,000km service (at 141,000) and I'll have a completely trouble-free Strzelecki / Eyre / Birdsville trip.
 
I wish it were bearings, but it is engine load related. As soon as I back off the throttle, the noise disappears. Only happens at speeds 100 and above.
 
Haven't done any work, but began seriously planning what I'm going to do with my Forester in regards to it finally hitting 200,000 KMs a couple of weeks ago. Considering buying another engine and rebuilding it but rebuilding it strong with forged internals etc. Keeping it N/A (mainly because I dont want to swap the cross member) but gonna build it like a turbo engine.

Once it's built I'll do a swap, and do a general service on the rest of the car, replace the CV shafts etc.
 
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