What have you done to your car today?

Rejuvenated the spare bumper (see interior & exterior thread), to make it look like new. And fixed the squeaky clutch. ..but seems to have come back. ..somewhere inside where the cable goes into the clutch.
 
I'm new to this web-site, but not wrenching. Picked up a 98 forester with a goofy 6" lift and only half the rear transaxle bolted up on drivers side. Today I picked up some replacement roof rails and side windshield side trim (previous owner sailed a mattres off the roof ripping it loose). Looking to source some struts and springs with some better geometry, pulling off the 235/70R16 mickey thompsons.
 
Also swapped out the nasty carpet mats for some heavy duty rubber mats out of a 07 forester. Gonna get this car back to a daily driver. Not sure where to start with the custom body lift. Counting the pieces and locations is really my only start for now, but honestly compared to my jeeps body is minor.
 
well not today -- but a couple of days ago.

Rebuilt front calipers, new rotors and pads plus full system bleed.
 
OK gave the little beast Subaru XV 2014 6sp manual FB20B motor a 25000km service of:
New engine oil . Penrite 5-20w full synthetic. ( can't find 0-20 and 0-30 is gonna drag more most of the time).
New Oil filter 411ST.
Changed clutch/brake fluid in the master cyl completely.
Changed front transaxle oil 75-95 w Penrite full synthetic ( when I finally found the filler dip stick and bought a t70 torx)
Changed rear diff 75-95 Penrite Full Synthetic
Properly installed my Scantool.
Removed the rear sway bar completely. Car actually travels better and I couldn't get a undesirable movement out of the car cornering. No matter how hard I tried. Si it's staying off.
Discovered:
The XV LOVES having the oil changed. It actually runs MUCH smoother. Had just a few cars that responded as strongly to lub changes and this is one.
I need to make a bash plate for the transaxle and the rear diff.
The Sub extreme engine bash plate cannot be cut to make an oil outlet access without compromising the bash plate strength.
The man ( or woman) that designed the metal bracket that holds the cables and wires coming to the motor from the rear right hand side should be located and made to put in and remove the transaxle dipstick 1 million times until he/she learns that they are an incompetent design idiot. Gonna have to redesign the bracket and make it out of aluminium but leave the engine lift point.
There are a host of brackets, covers and bolts that can be redesigned and lightened without compromising function or strength.
Once my motorcycle project is finished the subie is in for a sliming.
 
gregjet said:
The man ( or woman) that designed the metal bracket that holds the cables and wires coming to the motor from the rear right hand side should be located and made to put in and remove the transaxle dipstick 1 million times until he/she learns that they are an incompetent design idiot. Gonna have to redesign the bracket and make it out of aluminium but leave the engine lift point.
Click to expand...

Lol :rotfl:

Yes, it's the same on all newer subies, not sure about old school. Very bad positioning. I just cut the cable tie & moved it a little, didn't bother with a bracket for it.

I wouldn't bother with a diff guard, our diffs are tucked up nice & high & I've never seen one damaged.

My engine sumpguard had a cutout for the sump plug, I covered it over as thats the most vulnerable part of a Subaru & I didn't want it exposed.

Nice you noticed an improvement with your service, Subies love regular maintenance
 
Interesting about the oil change, because I have just had the 12,500 Km dealer service done and I thought I was imagining that the engine seemed to be smoother
 
Nar even my old motor responds to an oil change more than I expect
 
" Yes, it's the same on all newer subies, not sure about old school. Very bad positioning. I just cut the cable tie & moved it a little, didn't bother with a bracket for it."
That is a big bit of cable with a lot of copper. I will feel safer with a intermediate support for a free unsupported run that long.
I suspect you are right about the diff itself but I will make up a guard that also protects the exhaust run under the suspension crush point.

The original Aluminium plate I started making for the engine had a hole to access the sump plug. The distance up from the plate meant that it was gonna be protected from a hit. The Subextreme one would too, but it's too close to the support bolts to retain strength so it's back to removeing the plate to change oil ( stuff it!!!)
 
Hehehe... "did some stickers"...

Good one!

Cheers

Bennie
 
I have done a lot of work on the forester over the last 2 weeks however today was trying to fit my entire life into one car. Forester is now all packed and ready for its 4000km journey across the country. Just slightly overloaded, who needs a lift anyway....
In preparation it has had a heap of work done to make it a little less worse for wear...
- New (used) exhaust off a EJ22 liberty
- New 215/75/R15 BFG tyres all round (which despite what most people say actually rub slightly on the front on stock offset rims)
- New tie rods and ball joints
- New massive light bar
- New front shocks
- New front wheel bearings
- New rear trailing arm front bushes
- Wheel alignment
- Full engine service

Now lets all hope it actually makes it without something falling off...

29046088736_b476a03bb4_z.jpg


28461083963_6e60f7043d_z.jpg
 
Hope those bikes are locked on that thing somehow, have a good trip!
 
Have a nice trip :iconwink:

Will the front CV's hold up this angle for such a long trip :rolleyes:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top