What have you done to your car today?

[idw]

changed the front cv's and tie rod boots, cleaned off a load of grease, changed the engine oil and filter, tightened the handbrake, replaced the rear diff oil.

got up to get the breaker bar to do up the diff plugs and smacked my temple on the bow bar, walked inside abit dizzy to grab an ice pack and sat down to write this while my headache go's away. not sure if the banging is the rock breaker next door putting sewage down the rd or my head.

but blinky is almost ready for some touring and light 4wding in the high country

 

[Ratbag]

Sorry to hear about you hitting your head, ID. Bugger of a thing that. I have headaches most days (without banging my head ... ), so I sympathise and empathise!

I had Roo2 to the exhaust doctor today and had the broken resonator cut out and a new one welded in. $130 all up, which I reckon was reasonable.
Sounds better ...

 

[idw]

I'm fine now and finishing some other odds and ends. I suffer from migraines alot those migra stick things kind of work if you haven't tried them. thats not bad for a resonator where abouts are you ratbag?

 

[Ratbag]

I get about 6 different kinds of headaches ...
The bane of my life ever since I was a little tacker.

In answer to your other question - Bayside.

 

[NachaLuva]

idw, glad to hear you're feeling better. I used to get migraines when I was a kid, not a lotta fun!

I have a leaking tie rod end. I thought I needed to replace the whole assembly, over $100 genuine. So I can replace just the boot? How easy is it to do?

Also have an oil drip coming from the plastic timing belt cover, passenger side...must investigate that....

Must also tighten the handbrake too, better read up on the manual lol

 

[taza]

Must also tighten the handbrake too, better read up on the manual lol

Thats easy mate. Pop off the cover where you H/B and D/R leaver are then there is a 10mm bolt, tighten it up a few turns then test the H/B. It's pretty straight forward until a turbo gearbox swap

 

[idw]

I have a leaking tie rod end. I thought I needed to replace the whole assembly, over $100 genuine. So I can replace just the boot? How easy is it to do?

Also have an oil drip coming from the plastic timing belt cover, passenger side...must investigate that....

Must also tighten the handbrake too, better read up on the manual lol

The rack boots are an easy swap out with a rack puller. jack up the car slip in an a stand,
1. pull out the pin in the top of the ball joint
2. take off the nut
3. use a puller to pop the arm out of the wheel assembly
4. mark the threat for the steering alignment so it all gos back in the same place.
5. use two spanners to take off the rack end then unscrew the nut on the piston arm.
6. cut off the old boot with a sharp knife and put the new boot on with clamps or zip ties depending on what sort you buy, and put it all back together and put the pin back in. If it wasn't before bend it up over the nut when your done.
* If you dont have a rack or a gear puller then take off the caliper, disc and steel shroud. leave the nut on the top of the threads but upside down not to damage the nut or threads, and hit it with a rubber mallet, if that doesnt work stick a scissor jack under the side of the arm to redirect more of the force of the mallet hit. They can be very stubborn or easy to get out, a puller is the easiest way not to damage anything and about $40 from super cheap auto. boots are about $12 from bersons, and a cable tie tentioning tool helps to get the ties nice and tight in the small space.

If the rack is leaking it might of done a seal and need them replaced the boot just stops dust dirt and crap getting in and damaging the seal on the hydrolic pison and dirt damaging the ball joint.

The leak on the timming belt cover is more than likely the crank seals have perrished. Mine did the same thing have the mechanic change them when you get the timming belt done if its close to being due, otherwise keep an eye on the leak if it gets realy bad have them and the timming belt done early. Easiest way to find out whats leaking is to give everything a good clean up and look around in the morning and night before leaving to see where the oil is leaving a line.

And taza has got it with the handbrake, if you have a knuckle couple of small extentions and a deep dish socket (1/4" stuff) you dont even need to take off any trim, but the trims only a couple of screws.

 

[NachaLuva]

Thx Taza & idw :iconwink:

The rack boots are an easy swap out with a rack puller.

If the rack is leaking it might of done a seal and need them replaced the boot just stops dust dirt and crap getting in and damaging the seal on the hydrolic pison and dirt damaging the ball joint.

Do you mean the little rubber boot on the tie rod end itself or the larger boot on the steering rack? The little boot has split. Im guessing if I can replace just the boot, I may not need to remove the tie rod end from the rack so no effect on W/A.

The leak on the timming belt cover is more than likely the crank seals have perrished. Mine did the same thing have the mechanic change them when you get the timming belt done if its close to being due, otherwise keep an eye on the leak if it gets realy bad have them and the timming belt done early. Easiest way to find out whats leaking is to give everything a good clean up and look around in the morning and night before leaving to see where the oil is leaving a line.

I'm at 182K km. I'll take off the plastic timing belt cover & have a look...

If there's oil splashing around in there & gets on the timing belt, I'd imagine that's not so good? Could it make the belt skip a cog? That would obviously be VERY bad!

 

[Ratbag]

Gidday NL

If there's oil in the timing belt cover, chances are rather good that one of the various oil seals in the front of your motor has had it ... . As I have never worked on one of these engines myself, I have no idea what seals are there. Could just be the front main crankshaft and camshaft seals, or there could be heaps of them - I don't know.

The only good news for you is that it is almost time to do you timing belt anyway, so you can get at the front seals and do the belt at the same time ...

I think that you're right about the oil being a danger to the valve timing. It certainly wouldn't help if the belt and tensioners are getting a bit old.

 

[Scooby2]

Thx Taza & idw :iconwink:

I'm at 182K km. I'll take off the plastic timing belt cover & have a look...

If there's oil splashing around in there & gets on the timing belt, I'd imagine that's not so good? Could it make the belt skip a cog? That would obviously be VERY bad!

Nachaluva, I am just at 177,000 kms, & am having the timing belt done. The recommended replacement is either every 100,000 kms - or earlier if your car doesn't do alot of miles. In the near future, I'm planning a long trip towing, and don't want any hassles along the way. My brother recently had dramas not with the belt but the pulleys, and I was very interested to read Nipper's link on the topic:

https://www.gates.com/australia/downl...ation_id=18884

 

[NachaLuva]

Waiting for the weather to clear so I can have a look... bloody Melbourne lol :lol:

 

[idw]

at 180,000k's is when mine started leaking and i had the mechanic change the crank seals at the same time as everything to get to them is almost off and doesnt take much longer, its cheaper that way then waiting for the belt to need to be done as well. the steering rack on the other hand has an internal seal that could be leaking fluid (check fluid resivour reguarly to work out if its leaking) otherwise the rack end is made up of three pieces the piston rod, uni joint and ball joint. the uni joint should have some grease on it. replacing the boots is about a 30minute job per side but if the rack is leaking hydrolic fluid replacing the boot wont stop the leak.

EDIT i really should read the whole thread before i keep replying. If the timming belt breaks on the boxer engine there will be nothing stopping the values from tapping on the piston head and damaging the top end, because subaru like being difficult

 

[Barry]

Nachaluva, I am just at 177,000 kms, & am having the timing belt done. The recommended replacement is either every 100,000 kms - or earlier if your car doesn't do alot of miles. In the near future, I'm planning a long trip towing, and don't want any hassles along the way. My brother recently had dramas not with the belt but the pulleys, and I was very interested to read Nipper's link on the topic:

https://www.gates.com/australia/downl...ation_id=18884

I believe it is every 200,000km on the 2.5litre N/A engine.

I'm currently at 340,000km, on my second set of belts, fitted at about 210,000km, and expect to replace them again towards the end of 2013.

 

[Barry]

Some new toys for 'Charlie'.

Not 'to' my Subie, but 'for'...

1. New 'Typhoon' tyre pump - just like the one stolen with my camper. $139.99 - $100 below usual price.
2. Replacement tyre plug kit (with metal handles this time ) for the same reason. Also 30% below usual price. AND...
3. Replacement recovery kit on special from Just Straps. https://www.juststraps.com.au/Default.asp? Also purchased a standard distribution strap. All up, including delivery and Little Johnnie Howard's "never ever" Goods and Services Tax, it cost me $258.88, which was $10 less than a lower spec Just Straps kit WITHOUT distribution strap at Anaconda. :biggrin: I think the reason they are doing a 'special' with 'premium' grade (orange webbing) winch and tree protector straps is that they are phasing out the 'premium' straps.

 

[Scooby2]

I believe it is every 200,000km on the 2.5litre N/A engine.

Thanks for that Barry! I have never had the fortune to own one from new, just was told to make sure to get it done at the 200,000 service (maybe I just assumed every 100,000 .. it isn't actually written in the manuel I have for her). Scooby2 is all back together now and ready for her 'new' life!

 

[mr turbo]

The recommended replacement is either every 100,000 kms - or earlier if your car doesn't do alot of miles.

I believe it is every 200,000km on the 2.5litre N/A engine.

I believe you're right Scooby2 & it's recommended to be done at 4yrs/100,000km on the 2.5lt (both N/A & Turbo) which ever comes first. At least on the MY05 & earlier models & according to my manual/service books.

I do seem to remember reading that for the MY06 & onwards they changed it to 5yrs/125,000km.

Regards
Mr Turbo

 

[Barry]

I believe it is every 200,000km on the 2.5litre N/A engine.

Thanks for that Barry! I have never had the fortune to own one from new, just was told to make sure to get it done at the 200,000 service (maybe I just assumed every 100,000 .. it isn't actually written in the manuel I have for her). Scooby2 is all back together now and ready for her 'new' life!

I'm just glad it isn't every 100,000 km, as it would keep me poor! :rotfl:

 

[Scooby2]

mmm Barry & Mr Turbo... I will check Scooby's book when she returns - I must have read something somewhere... Scooby is only 2.0 not 2.5 like Scooby2. Would be great to know for sure about timing belt intervals.

 

[Ratbag]

Gidday Mr T

I believe you're right Scooby2 & it's recommended to be done at 4yrs/100,000km on the 2.5lt (both N/A & Turbo) which ever comes first. At least on the MY05 & earlier models & according to my manual/service books.

I do seem to remember reading that for the MY06 & onwards they changed it to 5yrs/125,000km.

That's correct according to my service books for Roo2 (MY06). Ross (usual mechanic) is a tad concerned about it being over the time limit.

I asked the mechanic at Subaru Mentone about this, as Roo2 is over the 5 year mark, and he said not to worry, just drop the plastic cover off and inspect the belt. If it looks OK, it is OK. If it looks a bit rough, replace it. Subject to this advice, he said to leave it until the 125,000 km service.

IIRC, the US version has a longer service interval in both mileage and years. Am I right about this? Or am I remembering the facts of another case ... :lol:.

Also, with Roo1, the timing belt was changed at 100 & 200K services, but it doesn't take much arithmetic ability to work out that if it had done 234K kms at 18 y.o. and it was about 4 years since the 200K service, that the belts were in for an average of about 7 years each.
Actually, the second belt was in for much longer, as I did the first 100K in around 6 years ... To my knowledge, the idler/tensioners were never replaced. I would have to check the service receipts for that to be certain though.

 

[NachaLuva]

I believe you're right Scooby2 & it's recommended to be done at 4yrs/100,000km on the 2.5lt (both N/A & Turbo) which ever comes first. At least on the MY05 & earlier models & according to my manual/service books.

Thats what I thought too. On my ancient EJ20J lol, its 4yrs 100,000km

I do seem to remember reading that for the MY06 & onwards they changed it to 5yrs/125,000km.

I havent checked this for sure but thats what I thought it was. I was gonna keep quiet & let the more experienced folks fight it out lol :iconwink:

RB, wouldnt surprise me at all if the US has a longer service interval, even though its the same part. They enforce much better standards than we do. Also, remember that post bout genuine Tbelts being MUCH cheaper over there than here? For the SAME part!! Guess where I'll be getting mine from :iconwink: