What have you done to your car today?

Not good to hear mate.

My Forester just has one issue after another. I am seriously over the POS. I am starting to think I should just keep the L-Series and censored the Forester off a censored cliff!
 
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Its only a minor prob compared to the probs you & thunder have had.

I've also noticed a minor oil leak from the front passenger side, looks like near the oil dipstick. Also a leaky diff but I'm not too worried as I want to get a plated LSD with a breather tube. Also the exhaust has twisted slightly so that loop that goes around the rear axle hangs down a bit. Plus the middle connection has a minor leak (thats how it twisted). The pass side lower control arm is leaking oil. It uses way too much fuel, about 10.5L/100km on the highway, driving gently & has a misfire around 2200rpm. I've tried new plugs, leads, air & fuel filter, SUEC, injector cleaner additives, cleaning the PCV valve & O2 sensor. Also the gearbox is far from smooth & the clutch shudders when cold.

Apart from all that, it still has heaps of acceleration in all gears & surprising torque for an EJ20J...its not even a later EJ20 lol. Its done amazingly well on tracks I thought we were deep in the proverbial.

The thing is to treat her kindly & I'm sure she will look after me, even with all her little faults :iconwink:
 
taza said:
Not good to hear mate.

My Forester just has one issue after another. I am seriously over the POS. I am starting to think I should just keep the L-Series and censored the Forester off a censored cliff!
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what happened now taza??

i know how you feel i am still wondering if i want to fix my car, and upgrade to something newer that is in better condition, once i have a job of course :iconwink:

nachulva i haven't heard of the lights blowing like that, could it have something to do with your upgrde?

our 12+ yr old cars are now starting to feel there age unfortunately :cry:
 
I've never heard of both going at the same time Nachaluva :shrug:
But I'd say you're on the right track about a possible power surge :iconwink:

Geez taza, not again. What happened this time ?

MONSTERSKULLS said:
primitive front and rear skidplates are now on
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Thats great news. I bet you're itching to get out, to try them out on the tracks :)

Regards
Mr Turbo
 
Howdy,

Just thought I'd mention my $20 mod I did today which has increased the enjoyment factor a bit more...

I scored an OB tweeter kit for 97 models off eBay which said it also fits some Forries. I took a gamble on the model suitability. Anyway, it arrived this morning and sure enough the plastic frame and moulding was way too big.

Not to be swayed by this, I removed the grilles (easy - no screws, just pried off) which left me with the tweeter's rear plasticky bit still attached. This was removed with 1 screw which then left the tweeter by itself.

The next problem was that the two plugs were completely unmatched.

At this point I just wanted to get them working so I ripped the plugs off the tweeters and took a guess on polarity (green went with red / grey went with white) and just did a bodge job by shoving the bare wires into the female part of the plug. It sounded pretty good so I whacked it all back into the door panel and with the cover on, it all fits so snug that the connection is holding so far. I'll probably solder it this weekend so the connection is permanent.

Cost = $20
Time = 45 min
Tools = small flathead screwdriver (and soldering iron - or at least tape or heatshrink).
Worthiness = Lots
Fun factor = 10x
 
Great to hear that it all worked out in the end Tweaksta :)

As they say, you'll never ever know, if don't ever have a go :ebiggrin:

Well done mate :)

Regards
Mr Turbo
 
pulled my air cleaner out and cleaned it... it's one of those "sport" filters... it came with the weber conversion... there's dust inside my carby. Obviously not really suited to the off road conditions here in the Isa. So it has kinda expedited my snorkel project... I just need someone to make a plenum for the top of the weber...
 
Species said:
pulled my air cleaner out and cleaned it... it's one of those "sport" filters... it came with the weber conversion... there's dust inside my carby. Obviously not really suited to the off road conditions here in the Isa. So it has kinda expedited my snorkel project... I just need someone to make a plenum for the top of the weber...
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this is why i wont get webber for the brumby, dust!
 
Gidday Spec

Species said:
pulled my air cleaner out and cleaned it... it's one of those "sport" filters... it came with the weber conversion... there's dust inside my carby. Obviously not really suited to the off road conditions here in the Isa. So it has kinda expedited my snorkel project... I just need someone to make a plenum for the top of the weber...
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Squeeze the sponge element in oil. Mop it with paper towel until it no longer has "free" oil in it (i.e. basically just oily to the touch, not dripping wet with oil, or anywhere near it ... ).

This will trap the dust, and require much more frequent cleaning ...

A further solution may be to fit a second layer of air cleaner grade sponge behind the existing layer.

Yet another is to pick up some plastic air duct filter from an air-conditioner shop, and use that behind the sponge. Coat the plastic dust filter with engine oil, and leave the sponge 'dry'.

For extremely dusty conditions, specially with Oz bulldust (the kind we encounter on roads, not Internet forums ... ), nothing, but nothing, beats having a centrifugal cleaner mounted on top one's snorkel, followed by an oil bath air cleaner.

My 1968 LC had the 1929 (?) Chev 3.8L six in it (Toyota bought the patent/copyright from Chev after WW11, IIRC). A bit of dust in that engine would merely have polished the bores ... BUT it also had an oil bath air cleaner. So did our WW11 Jeep.

A bit of dust in any modern engine will wreck it completely.

br, RB
 
I started more work on my Track build :)

7613272400_fa687d81ae_b.jpg


I just need to strip the wiring that will not be used any more and start "dry icing" the rest of the sound deadening ;)

-Jamie
 
Well, I finally got around to blasting all the mud off Ruby Scoo from the last trip... That black stuff was really sticky! It was interesting to see that it came off in layers at times - mud then sandy mud then sand then mud again etc - represented the areas we passed through and the sequence we did this in :D

I'm certain it's a rear strut that's gone - if it's not that it's a brake line - but I've just put new braided lines on! And the brake fluid hasn't moved between the pero's and benders. I've had shot struts on the rear before, with the L series you can drive with them for some time - until the vehicle feels like it's trying to crap around tight corners when at speed, certainly not a good feeling!

Cheers

Bennie
 
El_Freddo said:
^ Hehehe Taza - you gotta walk (with maintenance) before you can run (with mods)!

Well, I finally got around to blasting all the mud off Ruby Scoo from the last trip... That black stuff was really sticky! It was interesting to see that it came off in layers at times - mud then sandy mud then sand then mud again etc - represented the areas we passed through and the sequence we did this in :D

I'm certain it's a rear strut that's gone - if it's not that it's a brake line - but I've just put new braided lines on! And the brake fluid hasn't moved between the pero's and benders. I've had shot struts on the rear before, with the L series you can drive with them for some time - until the vehicle feels like it's trying to crap around tight corners when at speed, certainly not a good feeling!

Cheers

Bennie
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Took me a while to blast most of the mud off as well, but I'm gonna have to take the wheels off and clean em because it's driving like it has unbalanced wheels at the moment.

Bad news about the strut, but we did give the cars a bit of a flogging at times.

I also have a comprehensive set of bush stripes in the newly pained drivers' side: oh well.
 
Started noticing the forester misfiring on a couple occasions w/ the check engine light coming on - but not always. Today i swapped out the plugs & wires for bosch platinums & bosch wires (totaling about $38). Doesn't seemed to have stopped the misfire though. Going to check out ig. coil & fuel filter next..
 
Done 1500km in less than a week just around Perth and on the new motor. Still running like a dream :iconwink:

Did a insane rutty/gravel hill climb that was about 60degrees in the foz the other night. Was awesome, want to do it again and get it on video!! :lildevil:

Kevin said:
I've moved Taza's engine swap posts into his journal for easier reading:

https://www.offroadsubarus.com/showthread.php?t=2887&page=12
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Thanks Kevin, much appreciated :iconwink:
 
SuperRu said:
Please tell us more.
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4" lift, 29" tires, AT to MT d/r swap(from forester sf5), welded rear diff, front driver seat from gc8(recaro style), and a few things to complete - wheel spacers 2"(now 1,25"), re-weld shifter, and shorten front struts spacers from 17cm(6.7") to 14cm(5.5")(chattering in corners).
rear strut spacers - 18cm(~7").
poweder coated almost all susupension(exept struts and front crossmember), wheels. blue RAL code - 5015, orange - 2007.
thread on our forum with more pics
 
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