What factors make Off Road Ability?

Dedman's SG is a truly amazing vehicle.

In your type of terrain, @scalman, which looks like sand but is extremely dried-out, non-cohesive silt, the digging that manuals do depends on their gearing. If they are geared too tall, they will dig deep in the silt. With a proper low-range manual, one can maintain a steady wheel spin and climb up easily. I don't have that much experience off-roading a manual Subaru, by the way, but this comment is based on my manual diesel 4x4 wheeling. I do know that Subaru's low-range is very conservative but is still good, as demonstrated by our members here.
 
When i will see myself how subaru crawls slowly in soft sand on manual i will believe it. Still waiting to see it. Im sure if you put lots money in to anything it will become more capable then before but that goes for anything out there.
 
so to get most grip for off road you would want to have most drop of your wheels, so i measured after lift front wheel drops down about 10cm with sway bar or without it same. because this wont let you in front, so then makes sense to just leave front sway bar there and have better city handling car, or find some way to modify this problem. and then not sure would those struts even drop down more , maybe they wouldnt.
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and in rear then with removed sway bar wheel drops down same 10cm but why, hmm so thats why
because rear CV axle hits its limit and it wont let that drop more even those links there still have some space to move, so as i did on my previous 2001 outback i put there little shorter CV axles in rear and with that it dropped down more, some more maybe 5-7cm, but still and then its not put so much preasure on those CV's when its fully dropped and you try to spin wheels.
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Another Dedman video with his description about 4eat vs 5mt dual range


After my first test of the new auto off road I am not sure if I am sold on the Auto or not. In some aspects it is great, it can crawl over bumpy terrain much more slowly than the manual which is what I wanted and they VTD locked up is true 4WD with no slipping detected so far. However the auto gearing is VERY tall compared with a manual (12:1 vs the 25:1) I was running. I found I was able to reach stall on the torque converter very easily with no acceleration at very low speed and in reverse, torque converter stall without any wheels spinning at all. Where a manual SG with SF low range was able to accelerate at under 50% throttle the auto could not at 100% throttle. When attempting larger dunes with a run up the highest RPM I saw was 3500 which occurred with the vehicle going quite quickly where as the manual could hit 6000rpm whenever it wanted. Maybe this could be fixed with a higher stall torque converter or a turbo (neither of which I am sure I want to do) but I am still a little concerned when in rough rocky stuff with the locker engaged trying to climb up a step I will hit stall and not be able to move... These videos show a comparison between the manual and auto. The auto (white car) is off the line at 100% throttle and the manual (red car) is feathering the throttle to avoid breaking traction. Another comparison is on a wet road the auto SG can not break traction at all where as a manual SG can do 4 wheel burnouts in 1st high. Would be interested to hear from anyone who has done a high stall torque converter.
 
they putting russian made lockers same style as torq from US , but they have 2 versions of those , later they will do test those 2 vs each other and 3rd one on welded diff
maybe some day i will try one too if they prove to be reliable
first time seeing that oneclick locker from close, it locks just in one place and its not clicking so much when you do hard turns on hard surface as lockright does , lockright is straight copy of torq locker

and this is how its brakes apart killing diff with that too. so when you see stuff like that happening you thinking twice about those
 
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bunsh different subarus having fun on melting snow
 
dark blue - lockright locker
silver - oneclick locker
red - welded rear diff
mud tires on snow not best way to do it
 
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everybody love rollers dont they ? and to see how one or other car can do on them.
1998 S Turbo vs 2017 forester . but we all know result anyway.
 
so they broke 4th axle there with that torq locker in rear. and not even doing anything hardcore there just spinning wheel while one was in air . so its says something about those lockers and whats braking with them, normal axles
 
so lets say you then upgrade axles to stronger ones and more expensive ones. maybe work for some time until something else would brake , like next weakest thing there...maybe locker itself will brake then..
 
That’s why we went full R180. Harrop knows how to make things bloody strong too. You get what you pay for.
 
why then we dont see your action in videos that shows how good all this works ? or you making them just not sharing ?

there that L series with locker if i remember right .. nice sand . i think my coolant would go cooking hot in that kind of driving . its allways goes sky high in sand when i torture it more

so there are those guys makes all look easy and then there is my outback ....really! subaru ? thats me flooring pedal there
whats wrong with it just stalling in reverse i mean ...what was the point for that 3.0 engine then. ?i have some problems i guess and im looking now into those , but still cant find what doing this to car ? clogged catalyst, injectors ? i duno what else . forward some better but after couple diagonals and jumps and if i loose my high revs its just stalls forward as well. if its can keep up those revs like about 3k prm and higher then it goes ok. but moment it looses revs its gone.
 
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scalman said:
so lets say you then upgrade axles to stronger ones and more expensive ones. maybe work for some time until something else would brake , like next weakest thing there...maybe locker itself will brake then..
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Torq Masters specifically said that once the locker is installed in the car, it will be the strongest part of the driveline, hence other components must be upgraded to. Jeep owners who install auto-lockers always upgrade at least their half-shafts to at least match the strength of the locker.

Also, having more than 5% oversized tyres will help a lot with breaking axles.

The guys on the channel said that they have already upgraded to rally axles and have been having a good run since.

scalman said:
whats wrong with it just stalling in reverse i mean ...what was the point for that 3.0 engine then. ?i have some problems i guess and im looking now into those , but still cant find what doing this to car ? clogged catalyst, injectors ? i duno what else . forward some better but after couple diagonals and jumps and if i loose my high revs its just stalls forward as well. if its can keep up those revs like about 3k prm and higher then it goes ok. but moment it looses revs its gone.
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It seems like your throttle isn't fully opening up. Most cars do that when they are in limp mode.

A clogged catalyst will usually show up with the values of the front and rear O2 sensors. I would start with the injectors themselves. Sometimes, when the fuel system is cleaned after not being cleaned for a very long time, deposits can clog the injectors. The injectors will not give a code but a failed ignition does, hence the misfire. What you will need from the fuel system cleaner are strong PEAs. Subarus Upper Engine Cleaner and Fuel Additive have a good amount, which is why many enthusiasts of other car makes use Subaru products, as well. Cheers.
 
I’m just not sharing anymore videos here. I know my set up works. I believe it to be the best engineered system. We foresaw that axle failure was an issue and went for the best readily available parts. Everyone else wanted to go for cheaper options. Of course nothing is unbreakable and nothing lasts forever, so as an added precaution we made up a spare axle just in case. It was never needed. Of course, you could always get custom axles made which are stronger again but this hasn’t been necessary.

with regards your outback, it’s nothing new. I saw this happen with an H4T with 4 speed auto and an SJ with CVT. It breaks the myth that a standard auto is a viable off road alternative to a 1.44 dual range manual.
 
So its gearbox itself? And larger the normal wheels not helping here too i guess. Is that makes it stall when i want to go up in reverse? And its allways on sandy surface well soft. On hard surface it kinda goes in reverse but if its soft its like nop im not spinning those wheels for you...
Still i have some problems there too its laggy on launch hesitates now from start and dropes some p0302 codes on me
 
Well you need to sort the engine out first before you worry about anything else
 
scalman said:
So its gearbox itself? And larger the normal wheels not helping here too i guess. Is that makes it stall when i want to go up in reverse? And its allways on sandy surface well soft. On hard surface it kinda goes in reverse but if its soft its like nop im not spinning those wheels for you...
Still i have some problems there too its laggy on launch hesitates now from start and dropes some p0302 codes on me
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You have to get that misfire sorted first. The tests that you did indicate that the electrical components of the injectors are OK. You will have to try to clean the injectors to make sure that they are not the culprit. Cheers.
 
Why do you say the EZ 30 with low range would be best when the 2.5t kills it for torque? I’ve driven an H6, and it’s a nice engine. But it just doesn’t have the grunt, the response, of the turbo.
 
Does that turbo needs revs to even launch? So if you trying go slow turbo wont be on so no extra power. But sure when turbo goes into play its nice. And i mean stock cars at least. There are no turbo with low range is it? But could be wrong.

Foresters in mud is allways nice.
So its lifted on mitsu delica springs. Interesting solution.
I cant imagine what guys on that blue lada where thinking when they went there fisihing... yh thats pretty normal fishing car in russia.. lol slick tires, low, rwd. Perfect for mud. How they even get there

I should try mine in mud where it could soin wheels, it should be fine if it not sinks and with wheel spin comes revs and with revs i could live i guess.
 
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