What factors make Off Road Ability?

A hand winch makes you become a better driver off road....because you don't want to use it !
 
sure recovery boards or anything to put under wheels can help you without any winch, but you need lift car fast and high so you could put even more under wheels and then hi lift jack would be best i think. even without having recovery boards if you lifted car from bad stuff its allready more then half job done. then you can put there some trees or logs or anythign that you can find around under wheels and its done.
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so for going alone as did most times hi lift jack and some cheap metal old school recovery boards would safe me from any situation i think.
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I agree, @scalman, the quick hi-lift jack is especially useful when the vehicle's body is vacuumed into the mud and the wheels are buried.
 
And then that capability factor it depends, there can be car just made to go off road into mud, soft ground, sand ,deep water, and then it can be everyday car for city but some capable off road , so its not fair to compare those different cars when they do that in videos, but then its foolish take city sedan on slick tires and put it into mud .
I like how subarus are comfy cars at least outbacks , they dont look like made for tracks at all , mine now looks like any other vw passat as they most drives in silver color around here.
 
they allready have snow , testing lots subaru and other cars

this year for now our winter sucks, no snow at all, no cold too, not sure when we will have normal snow here
 
couple old cool subarus and newer ones vs audi and vw passat ... for some people out here those old subarus are maybe everyday thing but they so rare on this part of world. iv never seen one in real in my country at least . still i would never do what they did there, meaning non lifted cars braking bumpers and other plastic parts. i mean you dont have enough clearance just lift your car, remove bumpers and then go off road, why do that and then have broken car ? on most places lifted subarus would go just past it only because clearance.
 
That looks cool. I allways thought that air suspension is best until it works. And some combination air plus shock could be even better. All comes to price. How much it costs for forester to become capable.
 
The air pistons were cheap because they were made by a 3rd grade student in a technical/mechanic school, 400$. The 1,5 liter scuba bottle was 100$, the gas pressure regulator was 150$, the tubing and orings around 70$, anodizing 120$
In the video, the first half is on position "high" (30cm ground clearance at lowest point), the last half in the gully is on position "low" (4,5cm lower).
 
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Thats cool so how much it lifts above normal shock.
 
Is the low position the flattest it can get, meaning when it completely collapses or fails, it's just at 4.5 cms lower than high?
 
So at low car feels like on normal oem shock same stiffness and all ? Good on corners ansd such? And on high in dont have suspension travel anymore but it have clearance? Sounds cool .
 
scalman said:
So at low car feels like on normal oem shock same stiffness and all ? Good on corners ansd such? And on high in dont have suspension travel anymore but it have clearance? Sounds cool .
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Yes, in the "low" position, the Forester behaves the same as a stock Forester with a 2" spacer lift. In the "high" position, the air piston pushes the spring up by 4,5cm so I can't get full compression but because its air, the weight of the car on diagonals is able to push the piston down which probably gives me all the travel back. You can see it on the video at 3:52.
 
jf1sf5 said:
Yes, in the "low" position, the Forester behaves the same as a stock Forester with a 2" spacer lift. In the "high" position, the air piston pushes the spring up by 4,5cm so I can't get full compression but because its air, the weight of the car on diagonals is able to push the piston down which probably gives me all the travel back. You can see it on the video at 3:52.
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And those are not too much angles for those cv axles?
 
The front SVX axles are ok as they can reach 30° but they don't go above 28° on full droop. The rear axles are at the limit and on a rut I attempted 5/6 times, the cage holding the balls of the rear right inner CV broke. Next spring, I will do a 1/2" rear subframe spacer (will still have 33+cm of ground clearance !) to avoid this happen again on the trails.
 
so many different cars , from small and light to heavy and powerfull.. many factors decide how good you will do on tracks
 
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