Before you touch anything on this engine, CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN - it will make your life so much easier! Degrease, soak, pressure wash it! Make it shiny.
IMNSHO, the SF should have had the 2.2L from the beginning.
And IMO the L series should have come out with an EJ, maybe an option between the EJ18 and EJ20 would've been very sweet!
DuncanM, I'm going the EJ22 as its an easy and legal swap. Its within 10% increase over the EJ20 so doesnt need to be engineered. It can also work fine with the stock EJ20 ECU. A EJ25 swap would need either a piggyback ECU or an aftermarket one.
According to some fellas I've meet on another forum who are into their road hugging Subi's, when they do an engine conversion to turbo they just go to vicroads and have the engine numbers swapped with no questions asked. Apparently going from 2.5L to 2L boosted is ok by VR! Looks like I got into the wrong model of subaru...
To actually do this legit I really don't know, better to be safe or know you're up for an engineer's report rather find out after the fact!
You might want to do the roller rocker cam swap as well...
Roller rocker cams on the EJ22 came in with the phase II engine. These cams and rockers on the phase I will make it an interference engine - something to keep in the back of your mind.
While it had adquate powet (not enough) it certainly isnt economical. ~12l per 100km average in the city (90% of my driving).
Considering the mods you've done that is pretty bloody good economy! Try doing the same sorts of things to a "real" 4wd and see what happens to economy! You're all good there, stop complaining!
So do I use the EJ22 manifold & swap over the throttle body (different sensors) or just swap manifolds from the old EJ20 to the new motor? That would prob be easier...
Use your EJ20 manifold and sensors on the EJ22. It would be a good idea to get one of those exhaust gas scanners to make sure the ECU is compensating for the larger displacement of the engine - you don't want to be running lean all the time!
So what about that clutch kit? And I have bad clutch shudder, should I replace the clutch fork as well? A few clutch places have said that can be the cause if its slightly out of alignment. Seems to be genuine only though...$$$
Bad shudder can be due to "good clutch use" where you learn to slip the clutch as little as possible. When you have the shudder, purposely slip the clutch and give the engine a rev. This clears the dust that has built up between the pressure plate, disc faces and the flywheel contact area. Little slipping with everyday driving does not allow the dust to move away from the mating faces, so they kind of pile up in little heaps creating the shudder.
Or your flywheel is severely cracked from heat stress.
Timing belt and water pump:
Good idea to replace. I would be inclined to replace the tensioner whilst its out. Even if the tensioning device seems to be in good condition the pulley on it will not be provided in your timing belt kit and if you are unlucky that bearing may be on the way out, especially with the age of the engine. If the tensioner is good it should not be easy to replace and should not have rust or evidence of oil leakage around the piston in it.
Does your timing belt kit include cam seals and front crank seal? If not you should do these as well, much easier to do whilst the motor is out.
I've never replaced the hydraulic tensioner on the cam belt, but I'm also running the old school piston type tensioner unit. You can buy a kit with everything you need in it, you just have to get the right tensioner device with it. Being an early EJ22 I'm going to say it's got the same setup as mine:
Buy a good quality kit and get one with all the pieces to replace - idlers etc too. Can't go wrong then! You can even get them with a water pump. This is where rock auto is your friend, get the part numbers and plug them into US ebay for a price comparison
Valves:
Check your clearances whilst the engine is out, much easier to do than in the car.
If a phase I no need as they're adjusted via hydraulic lifters like mine
While you've got the intake manifold off it's a good idea to change the O rings (contact FROG) in the coolant crossover pipe and swap your temp sensor too so you're running the one that matches the ECU (just to be sure!):
Also a good time to give it a clean and a lick of paint
With your clutch kit etc, personally I'd see where yours is currently at with the condition of the flywheel and go from there. Many people swap out good clutches for new ones rather than take a little extra time to investigate before purchase and swap.
I think that's it, I'm sure I've missed something - oh yeah, the crank's cam belt gear and the cam gear with the sensor on it needs to be changed to the same as your EJ20's so the ECU will know what's going on. If you don't do both of these (providing you've got a cam angle sensor as per below) and the engine won't start I'll be putting my money on that being the issue.
Cam sensor lives in the smaller second hole above and off to the side of the cam shaft. Also a good idea to reseal this section too!
Once everything is in and looking shiny hit it with WD40 on all alloy surfaces as this will keep crap from baking on and you'll have a great looking engine most of the time. It apparently also makes cleaning mud and grime very easy to get off. Just be sure to recoat after every wash
This is an internet trick I'll be having a go with once Ruby Scoo is back on the road again.
Cheers
Bennie
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