EJ22 Swap into SF Foz Part 1

Get it in and running properly. Once you get there, then think about some cams. Doing a conversion of any sort I think keep it as simple as possible.
 
Good idea Venom, yeah I might just keep it simple for the swap.

The EJ22 was delivered today :biggrin:

Measured the manifolds, the EJ25 is 505mm across bolt to bolt, EJ22 & mine is 480mm. So it wont fit. Shame but at least it will simplify the swap
 
^ That's exactly why it's a good idea to do what Venom said ... :poke: :iconwink:

There will be plenty of 'excitement' without looking for more :rotfl:.

Hope it all goes smoothly for you, NL.
 
Nar it's not too big, its just time to learn some tig.
 
Haha, TIG would be very useful, but I want to get it working 100% & then look at improvents. Thanks RB, I hope so too lol :)

So do I use the EJ22 manifold & swap over the throttle body (different sensors) or just swap manifolds from the old EJ20 to the new motor? That would prob be easier...
 
Unless it causes other problems, I would be inclined to use the EJ-22 manifold.

Best to keep everything as standard as possible.
 
Use the EJ20 manifold ! Not sure if the EJ22 injector connectors are the same on your old EJ22 but they weren't on the '96 I swapped.

Just make it simple !
 
Yeah, Taza has said they,re not. So I might just swap the entire manifold. Will probably be easier anyway...
 
The other thing to consider is you don't want to be altering too many parameters like airflow with a larger intake etc if you're running a stock tune. Add up alterations like snorkel and engine capacity increase and it could be enough to have the engine running lean as it is. Ideally you would have a tune done on the stock ECU but I think it may be a 16-bit ECU which means you can't adjust much on them. A tune would probably be as much of an improvement as the EJ22 itself. It would be worth the $3-400 if you are able to do it.

And how friggin quickly does the cost of something like this add up? What at first you think is just the cost of the engine, would probably end up almost double that with all the little service parts like timing belt, gaskets, seals fluids, filters etc.
 
I would love a tune but I'm not sure its possible with this ECU.

Yes it adds up lol :rotfl:

As I need to do the water pump anyway & I dont know if the pulleys were done, plus I'm not 100% certain the Tbelt was done either (the guy said it "looked" like it was), I might do a Tbelt kit.

What do you think of this one:
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SUBARU-...99?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item2c7d433ebf

It says turbo, but so does EVERY other Gates kit lol. I called them & they guaranteed me its the right one, he thinks the turbo bit is a typo from Gates.

It includes the Tbelt, water pump & gasket, 3 seals, 4 pulleys but no tensioner.

Do I need to do the tensioner as its only done 120k kms or just wait for the next time?
 
Just inspect it if its in good nick without any play or leaking at all it should be fine. Mines still original at 270,000km's Same with the water pump, but both are getting replaced at 300k.
 
Reading about it on the net, it seems most T-belt failures are related to the bearings in the idler pulleys. And that as long as the belt itself isn't frayed, split or cracked then it should be OK. So maybe just replace the bearings or idler pulleys completely?
 
Yeah, thats what I thought I'd do.

So what about that clutch kit? And I have bad clutch shudder, should I replace the clutch fork as well? A few clutch places have said that can be the cause if its slightly out of alignment. Seems to be genuine only though...$$$
 
Venom said:
Reading about it on the net, it seems most T-belt failures are related to the bearings in the idler pulleys. And that as long as the belt itself isn't frayed, split or cracked then it should be OK. So maybe just replace the bearings or idler pulleys completely?
Click to expand...

The timing belt itself is pretty dirt cheap. Only about $40-50, IIRC. Not worth not replacing it, IMHO. Keep the old one as a spare ...

Completely agree about the idler wheels and tensioner/s. These are crucially important for any timing belt to last more than about five minutes! Apparently, so is the proper alignment of all the components.

Always worth repeating - remember to check, and double check, the timing marks on the crank and camshafts ...
 
Since I once had my clutch fork snap in a Toyota in Melbourne cbd, I'd say if anything is suspect replace it, it's not a fun experience . Subaru has a couple of difference fork setups that connect to a couple of different slave cylinder setups,on a few different gearbox mountings for single/dual range/6spd, so make sure you know exactly what you need, if you replace it.

The fork in our first gen boxes are only mild steel, and its not unheard of for them to bend from abuse. Shudder could be the fork starting to crack or twist, or a host of the other usual things, easy enough to check when you take the box off.
 
yeh - seriously, you'd be stupid not to replace the TB, tensioner and idlers while the engine is out. Phase II EJ22 ? Then its interference and you're up for an expensive repair if the belt goes.

Cost may seem excessive now, but you'll be right for another 100k without having that nagging feeling about when you should get in there again and change it. And pump, TB etc are a pain in the butt to change with the engine in the car.

Make sure you do all those other simple things, too: front and rear main seals, throwout and pilot bearing etc.

As for no new tune on your ECU - make sure you use the matching MAF and injectors, the rest of the stuff should be second-order effect on tune.
 
Looks like you have a pretty good list of the bits you need.

Clutch:
Make sure you do the thrust bearing with the clutch some kits may not include it but most will. It also might be a good idea to replace the thrust bearing retaining springs as yours will most likely be rusty from the few submersions you have had over the years, this goes for the clutch fork retaining spring as well.
As for the clutch fork, I am very sceptical that it is the cause of the juddering. The fly wheel is held central by the engine, the clutch plate is held central by the gearbox, the thrust bearing should by design centralise itself on the pressure plate and the clutch fork is pivoted on its mount and at the slave cylinder meaning and potential minor bends should be compensated for. By all means if it looks bent or damaged in any way (rusty, cracked etc) then replace it but otherwise my opinion is that it would be a waste of money.
More likely the judder is caused by damaged clutch plate or pressure plate or flywheel surface.
Clutch alignment tool is nice but can be done without it, just a bit of a pain getting everything lined up again.
Now I have written all this about clutches I have just had a thought... Your box is a 4 bolt, no idea if your clutch is the same layout as mine...

Timing belt and water pump:
Good idea to replace. I would be inclined to replace the tensioner whilst its out. Even if the tensioning device seems to be in good condition the pulley on it will not be provided in your timing belt kit and if you are unlucky that bearing may be on the way out, especially with the age of the engine. If the tensioner is good it should not be easy to replace and should not have rust or evidence of oil leakage around the piston in it.
Does your timing belt kit include cam seals and front crank seal? If not you should do these as well, much easier to do whilst the motor is out.

Valves:
Check your clearances whilst the engine is out, much easier to do than in the car.

Engine mounts:
May as well check they are in good nick whilst its out.

In terms of the difficulty of changing engines over i did an ej202-ej202 bare engine swap (new engine already prepared for install). Removal, swap all sensors and manifold over and re install back in car was easily done in a day. The swapping parts between engines was far easier than i was expecting, (12 bolts on the manifold, knock, crank sensors and temperature sensor plug, ecu and mounting and unplugging leads for the spark plugs the plugging them back on new motor and thats it) again not sure what differences there are on the ej20j/ej22 but i would imagine very similar.

Any my last tip is have some ratchet straps handy, sounds strange but I 100% sware by them. I discovered that when pulling/installing gearboxes/engines that can be used to pull the box an engine in different ways small amount to get them apart/back together/line up better than anything else I have tried They can support weight, pull, push, change angles of heavy components etc. I will never ever pull a gearbox again without them.

If I think of anything else of use I will add it :)
 
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