A New Trailer for the Ratbag ...

Gidday Folks

This has been an epic in the making!

[EDIT]

For a distillation of the design factors that I eventually came up with for my trailer and tent, see this post and the following post.

The fitting and commissioning of my camper trailer tent is in a separate thread, here.

[end edit]

My 7x4 trailer is just over 30 years old.
The tyres are also 30 y.o. ... 165x13.
The wheels are possibly 20 years older than that; probably Holden rims, I don't know.

About 10~13 years ago, I had the ladder frame replaced with 2x1" structural box. I also had the floor and half way up the sides replaced with 16 gauge galvanised steel.

The front has been converted to a drop front.

The spare wheel holder has mostly rusted through, and needs replacement.

The wheel bearings, axle, hubs and springs are in good serviceable condition.

The trailer tows straight and true at all speeds (up to over 130 km/h).

It really needs 3x new wheels and tyres, and an urgent replacement of the spare wheel holder bar.

After that, it needs some love and affection; some minor repairs that any competent handyman with a welder can do; some elbow grease with a wire brush and sand paper, and a repaint.

Beyond me, and even if it weren't, I cannot fit 16x6.5" Subaru wheels on it without replacing the axle; hubs; mud guards - you get the drift. Cost more for me to have someone else do all this than a new, purpose-built trailer!!

I have found someone this arvo who has helped me source proper hubs to fit my Subie steel wheels. Proper clearance. No extra over 'standard' hubs for the hubs, or the axle. This was a BIG hurdle!!

So. 6x4 box trailer with 18~20" sides, and a locking lid and 16x6.5" Subie wheels.

The company can do the whole job; including water/fuel jerry can holders; tool box; side mount spare wheel; side opening steel lid; gas bottle holder - including locking brackets all over the place.

Judging from the trailers under construction on the floor, they are not into making crap! Their "basic duty" trailer makes most "heavy duty" trailers I have looked at look lightly built ...

Have had a rough guesstimate. Will get a proper quote from them next week.

To be continued - as the story unfolds ...

 

[Scooby2]

Sounds like you are well on the way to a fantasmagorical road trip RB. Great idea to give your fridge a "test" run before you go - you will know it much better at home before it has chance to be tragic on a trip. Consensus during our recent road trip with 3 way fridges - most definitely perform best while running on gas. We don't have that option ourselves, but find 12V + Solar the best option as we only need to refrigerate not freeze.

We charged up our battery pack before we left home, and it kept 3 I things charged when needed on and off for two weeks.

Look forward to hearing about your road trip to pick up the tent. Great opportunity for a test run before you take off. We learned the hard way how valuable a short trip to test everything out BEFORE you take off on a long trip. Trailer lights can be fickle right at the last second to get working!

Great that you have your pocket knife and pouch road ready. If only I had known, that would have been the very tool that would have fixed our trailer light problem!

Best regards,

 

[Ratbag]

Gidday S2

Sounds like you are well on the way to a fantasmagorical road trip RB. Great idea to give your fridge a "test" run before you go - you will know it much better at home before it has chance to be tragic on a trip. Consensus during our recent road trip with 3 way fridges - most definitely perform best while running on gas. We don't have that option ourselves, but find 12V + Solar the best option as we only need to refrigerate not freeze.

I may go solar at some point for charging the battery pack. Not at this stage though.

We charged up our battery pack before we left home, and it kept 3 I things charged when needed on and off for two weeks.

When stopped, the only things running off it will be the "iThings" via the 2.1A USB outlet. I have checked that this functions properly (USB devices can be very picky for things that are supposed to conform to a standard ... ). Charged up a portable CDR burner that hasn't been used for about 6 years yesterday. It has a 3.6 A/Hr 7.4V battery pack in it, so not a lightweight! That used about 4% of the battery pack's power ... :ebiggrin:.

I also have batteries of this sort of capacity and voltage for my cameras, and an in-car charger for these, so will be useful.

Other than these high drain items, all it will be doing is running a portable stereo and some LED lights in my trailer tent and surrounds.

Look forward to hearing about your road trip to pick up the tent. Great opportunity for a test run before you take off.

I'm trying to get all this done, and install the UHF and aerial before the trip to Mildura. Maybe!!

We learned the hard way how valuable a short trip to test everything out BEFORE you take off on a long trip. Trailer lights can be fickle right at the last second to get working!

I know what you mean about trailer lights ... Another "standard" ... :iconwink:.

I only ever use large, round, 7 pin plugs. They will give reliable lights if the lights themselves are earthed properly ...

Great that you have your pocket knife and pouch road ready.

:ebiggrin:. I am very attached to the that belt pouch, and to my big brother ... :ebiggrin:.

If only I had known, that would have been the very tool that would have fixed our trailer light problem!

Best regards,

I have found that a bit of sandpaper on the earth connections for each light works small miracles ... .
Ditto, keeping the main connector contacts 'spread' and clean ...

br, and thanks ...

 

[Scooby2]

Gidday RB. USB 12v I have discovered by meltdown... That it is better to pay a bit more for the adaptor (my favorite being Belkien) than experience a meltdown of either the adaptor OR ... The cigarette lighter.

Best regards,

 

[Ratbag]

I agree, S2.

I connect to the battery box via a 4 port "powered" hub that cost around $5-10. Useless connected to a PC, as the wall wart could nearly put out 500 mA ... hahahahahaha ... . It works beautifully on the Jaycar Powertech battery box .

I actually have 12V to USB charge leads for all my "iThings" (I don't use "iThings" myself, but love your term :biggrin, and won't use a generic lead for any of them after frying a Nokia phone about 15 years ago ... . These things are a LOT better than they used to be, however.

Be buggered if I'm going to fry a $100 battery for a camera, or an $800 Blackberry or Samsung by using anything but a USB lead specifically designed for them.

IME, it is far easier to overload a 12V system/circuit than it is to overload a 240V circuit, and look at what some people do the the latter! .

After all, heat is proportional to the square of the current; and Power (W) = V * A; so if one reduces the voltage, the amperage goes up proportionately, and the heat produced goes up exponentially (square law function ... ).
Fried wiring loom, anyone?

 

[Ratbag]

Got the tag-along back from Jimi today. $528 later ...

Anyway, tags welded and Tradies tool box bolted on with 6 high tensile bolts (1220 x 355 x 400 checker plate aluminium, gas struts, weatherproof, lockable, with one fiddly bits tray). I have just taken this off so that I can paint all the welding underneath properly ...

The spare wheel pole needed to come off and get 'reversed', and yet more cross-bracing welded into the draw bar. It is now secured with 3 nuts, not just one. I need to make a "foot" for the tyre, as it is currently about 20 mm above the chassis.

Gas struts fitted to the lid at each end so that I can probably lift it with the tent attached; but more importantly be able to pull it shut again! The ready made camper trailers all seem to need about 3 people to shut the flaming things!

I have an internal 1" x 1" structural steel strut that is loosely attached inside. This rigid strut had to be removed from its previous position, re-designed, and the appropriate bits made and welded in position. When lifted, I reach inside, pull this off its pin and out of the bracket, put the bottom end into a socket on the mudguard, then slip the top back over the pin. I don't want to be decapitated by the lid with a 100 Kg tent on it!

I wanted weaker struts, but will need the security of a fixed brace because of them.

Had some plates welded to the sides where the metal moths had eaten some holes over the years. Makes it a bit prettier, I guess.

The really expensive part was the struts at around $260 fitted. Considering that the OzTrail strut kit costs $225 (without fitting ... ), I reckon that this wasn't a bad price. I had budgeted for between $300-500 all up, expecting it to be on the higher side rather than the lower ...

 

[Ratbag]

Spent most of yesterday and today working on the trailer.

Fixed the way the spare attaches to its post.

Filled the water traps with acrylic butyl mastic. Sprayed all the nasty bits with galvanising primer after scrubbing them a bit with a wire brush, old chisel and sandpaper.

Put a top coat of hammertone charcoal on some bits today.

Went to fix the earthing problem/dodgy bulb in one of the tail lights. Lens screws frozen solid, as were the body mounting nuts. Took them off with a cold chisel and single-jack sledge hammer. Cut the wiring loom. Cleaned up under them . Drilled new mounting holes for the LED tail lights. Primed the mounting area with the galv primer.

Removed the wheels (my new chassis stands were handy ... :iconwink. Removed the rust off the hubs. Masking tape over the studs. Primed with the galv primer. The wheels will be off for a couple of days, as I will top coat the hubs, and then let the paint harden up for a bit before re-fitting the wheels.

After a couple of other things tomorrow, I plan to top coat where the tail lights mount, and will wire the new ones up to the loom. The new ones have stainless steel fixings, and are totally waterproof.

Should also get the tool box re-fitted tomorrow.

Basically, all coming along well. Just time consuming.

 

[Ratbag]

Had to pick some stuff up for SWMBO this AM, and source an under-bench water filter, as our current one had shat itself - the tops of the two filter canisters had cracked!! Anyway, Tradelink quoted me $360, and I bought one at Bunnings for $99 :lol: . This one also takes the same cartridges, so the spare pair we already have won't go to waste ... :biggrin:.

Did some more painting on the trailer. Should be able to put the toolbox and wheels back on tomorrow; probably best to do the re-wiring first though.

I have checked all the joins in the exposed part of the loom, a fitted heat shrink around them after re-soldering them.

Tomorrow I will re-identify which wire is which, as this side of the trailer is not colour coded ... . Once I have done that, I will slip some 9.5 mm heat shrink over this part of the loom, them it will be properly protected from the elements. Then solder on the new tail lights with heat shrink over the joins. Check that all work fine, then fire the big heat shrink over the whole lot, sealing the join with the new tail lights at the same time.

I am hoping that the tag-along will be fully functional again by tomorrow night.

A friend is going to help me tip it onto one side so that I can wire brush the frame and hit it with some galv primer. Top coat as much as I can with some old spray paint I have. I also have a can of hammertone left over, so it might even get to see some of that!

 

[Ratbag]

Well, I got my deposit back from the Mildura crowd, and will now be getting the OzTrail 6 Camper + OzTrail sun room from Kangaroo Tent City in Sydney (North Parramatta branch).

I guess I will be able to pick up the sump guard at the same time ... :biggrin:.

 

[mr turbo]

Geez mate, thats just up the road from my place :ebiggrin:

Regards
Mr Turbo

 

[Ratbag]

^ That's nice. How very convenient ... :biggrin: .

Have you got room to store it if there isn't room at my friends' place? I plan on being in Sydney for at least a couple of days, but I think they have a townhouse, so may not be any parking for the trailer.

I will also pick up the sump guard I bought from Andrew and fit it before travelling on to Brisbane (maybe - it depends ... ).

 

[havachat]

Glad you got the sump guard I have needed mine on several occasions. Surprised to hear the change of plan on tent supplier. Hope all goes well. I have an Oztrail cabin tent, they are really good quality.

 

[Ratbag]

Gidday HC

Yeah about the sump guard. I don't really need a "thump guard", but I do need something a bit less flexible than the ABS plastic shield. It is remarkably tough, but far too flexible, IMHO.

Good to hear your thoughts on the OzTrail tents. I have also gleaned that from posts on the Net. I have looked very closely at the one I am buying, and it appears to be very well thought out, and on the robust side rather than being flimsy.

Some user comments here:

https://www.myswag.org/index.php?topic=23022.0

It will be a bugger if I have to do the modifications I mentioned here:

https://offroadsubarus.com/showpost.php?p=73280&postcount=4104

but if all else fails (i.e. the tent won't reach all the way to the ground ... :iconwink: :lol, it is both do-able and should not cost all that much.

I still have to wire brush and paint the chassis rails underneath. Then make the bracket for the Oricom aerial.

 

[Ratbag]

Prepared and painted the chassis of my trailer

Gidday All

Prepared and painted the chassis and under-guts of my trailer today.

Flaming filthy, disgusting, difficult job .

That part hasn't been touched for at least 15-18 years.

Cleaned it back with an old wood chisel I have for this kind of purpose; wire-brushed it all; sanded it all with 60 grit carbide paper. Many parts I had to use both the blade and the sides of the chisel to get it reasonably good.

I am not worried about the somewhat less than Concours d'elegance finish. More a case of getting back to a good surface, then hitting it with lots of cold galvanising paint and a top coat of enamel.

The second can of cold galvanising paint wouldn't spray, so a trip back to Morgan's where they gave me a replacement. Handy to keep those plastic workshop seat covers for just such occurrences!

Seeing as it was a good warm-ish day with plenty of breeze, I did a "rub" test on the newest of the galv paint. When it didn't even rub up a little bit, I reckoned I could get away with a top coat of charcoal hammertone enamel.

So now the perimeter frame (2x2" structural box), the newer ladder frame (2x1" structural box), the back parts and welds of the very new tow bar (2x3" structural box, with lots of cross reinforcing), the spring hangers, sides of the springs, axle U-bolts, underneath the jerry can panniers and miscellaneous other bits and pieces have now had both a prime coat and top coat on them. I was surprised at how good the surface of the 2x1" ladder rails were. They only had red oxide paint on them when put in some 15-18 years ago. Still very sound with only superficial surface rust. The perimeter frame was less good, but still a very sound surface after 33 years!

I made sure I got plenty of primer and paint into the corners, after being very diligent about the preparation of these parts.

A job well out of the way!!

I am now absolutely filthy from grovelling under the trailer all day and scraping all that crap off the chassis above my head. Time for my weekly bath, I guess ... :iconwink: :biggrin:.

After the lights are tested tomorrow with SWMBO following me around for a few Kms making sure there aren't any blinkies or other faults, I should be able to start loading the trailer and tool box in preparation for my trip to Sydney to pick up trailer tent and sump guard, then on to Brisbane to stay with my bro & his wife for a few weeks or a month, or so ... :lol: :iconwink: :biggrin:.

Might be a few weeks yet before I can get things here to a stage where I can get away for a while, though.

 

[mr turbo]

Have you got room to store it if there isn't room at my friends' place?

I think that can be arranged mate :biggrin:
I'll send you a PM.

Regards
Mr Turbo

 

[Ratbag]

^ Gidday Mr T

Thanks for that. I will try to get KTC to store it for me. I am certain that they will have secure storage. But your offer will give me a fall-back position. Haven't spoken to my friends there about their parking facilities. Maybe later today. Will send you a pm later today.

First thing this morning, I hooked the tag along up and had SWMBO follow me around for about 5 Kms or so to check that the lights all worked properly, with no flickering or any other shenanigans. All worked like a dream - AND nothing fell off ... :rotfl:.

Even managed to teach SWMBO to use the Oricom 2W hand-held UHF ... :iconwink:. Mind you, I have about 5 minutes more experience with them than she has, so the blind leading the blind! :lol:.

They work a treat from car to car in convoy. With me inside the house and SWMBO in her car about 500 m away, things were at the limit with these. Having a heap of buildings in the way and both being inside structures is obviously just about a worst-case scenario.

Now I just have to make the aerial bracket for the 5W in-car Oricom and finish installing it.

Also need to have some security cables made up and buy another pack of locks with 50 mm shackles for the wheels and front and rear gates. When not locking the wheels, the 50 mm locks will be used to lock the trailer chains onto the car tow bar (the fixed part; not the removable tongue :lol.

My existing small Lockwood locks will secure the fuel and water jerry cans in their panniers.

I will also get a tow hitch lock.

None of the above will deter a serious criminal, but will slow the theft down (speed is of the essence in theft ... ). I am well aware that a 36V angle grinder will make short work of almost anything!

 

[Kevin]

Geez mate, thats just up the road from my place :ebiggrin:

Regards
Mr Turbo

Mine too!

 

[Ratbag]

^ That's handy ... :iconwink: .

Look forward to meeting you, Kevin; and any of the other local forum members I can.

 

[Ratbag]

Gidday Folks

Some (very ordinary) photos of the tag-along taken with my phone camera.

The whole beastie:

New tail lights:

Chassis painted and wiring loom fixed:

With new toolbox, jockey wheel and spare wheel mounting changed:

Some stays to steady the spare wheel when in transit:

Hitch adjusting bolt fitted:

 

[Kevin]

Lookin' good!

 

[Ratbag]

Thanks, Kevin.

Compared with the scabrous, unsafe, PoS it was before I started, I reckon it's an amazing transformation.

Here is a full mug shot of what it looked like hooked up for the trip to the trailer Vet (Jimi ... ):

I am still somewhat amazed that it didn't fall to pieces on the way there!
A whole 4 Kms ...