A New Trailer for the Ratbag ...

Gidday Folks

This has been an epic in the making!

[EDIT]

For a distillation of the design factors that I eventually came up with for my trailer and tent, see this post and the following post.

The fitting and commissioning of my camper trailer tent is in a separate thread, here.

[end edit]

My 7x4 trailer is just over 30 years old.
The tyres are also 30 y.o. ... 165x13.
The wheels are possibly 20 years older than that; probably Holden rims, I don't know.

About 10~13 years ago, I had the ladder frame replaced with 2x1" structural box. I also had the floor and half way up the sides replaced with 16 gauge galvanised steel.

The front has been converted to a drop front.

The spare wheel holder has mostly rusted through, and needs replacement.

The wheel bearings, axle, hubs and springs are in good serviceable condition.

The trailer tows straight and true at all speeds (up to over 130 km/h).

It really needs 3x new wheels and tyres, and an urgent replacement of the spare wheel holder bar.

After that, it needs some love and affection; some minor repairs that any competent handyman with a welder can do; some elbow grease with a wire brush and sand paper, and a repaint.

Beyond me, and even if it weren't, I cannot fit 16x6.5" Subaru wheels on it without replacing the axle; hubs; mud guards - you get the drift. Cost more for me to have someone else do all this than a new, purpose-built trailer!!

I have found someone this arvo who has helped me source proper hubs to fit my Subie steel wheels. Proper clearance. No extra over 'standard' hubs for the hubs, or the axle. This was a BIG hurdle!!

So. 6x4 box trailer with 18~20" sides, and a locking lid and 16x6.5" Subie wheels.

The company can do the whole job; including water/fuel jerry can holders; tool box; side mount spare wheel; side opening steel lid; gas bottle holder - including locking brackets all over the place.

Judging from the trailers under construction on the floor, they are not into making crap! Their "basic duty" trailer makes most "heavy duty" trailers I have looked at look lightly built ...

Have had a rough guesstimate. Will get a proper quote from them next week.

To be continued - as the story unfolds ...

 

[mr turbo]

Wow, what a difference

Looks like it is coming around very nicely indeed :ebiggrin:

Regards
Mr Turbo

 

[carljwnc]

Wow!!! What a transformation. Gonna' be sweet in the end.

 

[Ratbag]

Gidday Mr T & Carl

Wow, what a difference

Looks like it is coming around very nicely indeed :ebiggrin:

Regards
Mr Turbo

Wow!!! What a transformation. Gonna' be sweet in the end.

Thanks for the encouragement fellas. When it has had its coat of paint it should look as good as a bought one ...

The guy doing it reckons that you just don't see steel like this in modern trailers (Jimi at Jimi Built Trailers - been in the business as long as I can remember since I moved to Melbourne 31 years ago. I bought the trailer for the move ... ). Even the really rusty looking crap is still weldable underneath!

Actually, he said that you CAN get one built like this, but it would cost between $2,500 and $3,000!

I had asked him if I were mad spending over a grand having it rebuilt ...

He also knows my intended use as an off-road camping trailer; so his comments were made in the light of this, and he also expressed his opinion that even the old draw bar probably would never break, but he also said you really don't want to discover that it can and does somewhere outside of Oodnadatta ... Replacing the draw bar is the single most expensive part of the whole exercise.

His knowledge of my intended use has gone into a lot of that "over-engineered" reinforcing.

The springs were originally rated at 1/2 a ton each. They are lighter than normal for a 7x4 single axle trailer, but I wanted the softer ride that these provide. "Normal" at the time was 3/4 ton for each spring. What with compulsory brakes on any trailer with a gross weight over 750 Kgs (3/4 Imp. ton), it seems that my judgement way back when has been borne out by modern thinking about trailer weights, braking, etc. It has always had a very good "ride", with little bounciness, even unladen.

Jimi assures me that the alignment will be as good as ever, and that it will tow straight. It also gets a serial number stamped on its draw bar, and will be registered for the first time in about 30 years ... It is just 12 inches over the maximum length required for registration in Victoria (always has been :iconwink: ... ), and I intend to take it to NSW at times anyway, where registration is compulsory AFAIK.

It will also be nice not having to worry about the wheels falling over the wheel nuts ...

After all this time, the original wheel bearings (tapered roller bearings), hubs and 35 mm round axle are still in excellent condition. I have greased and adjusted them from time to time ... A lot of trailers made around that time had crappy bearings and under-sized axle/s. I gave them to Jimi to keep as spares, as he said they would get used at some stage. Waste not, want not ...

When it is finished, I will have to work out how I am going to arrange stuff in it. Maybe build some separate compartments to keep things from sliding around and mating with each other ... :lol:.

The lid will provide me with a 7x4 camp 'table' when open. IME, flat surfaces at person height are always in very short supply when camping ... I am not very good at bending these days!

 

[Barry]

Certainly is progressing well Ratbag

...

Off to buy some wheel clamps at Aldi in a minute or two.

Will visit my local ALDI today and see if they have any. Have wanted one for my camper trailer for a while.

 

[Ratbag]

Gidday Barry

Off to buy some wheel clamps at Aldi in a minute or two.

Certainly is progressing well Ratbag

Thanks mate.
I reckon that I have ultimately made the right decision - to repair and re-fit, rather than to buy new, built to spec. Took me long enough to make up my mind.

Cheaper by at least a grand when everything is finished. I also get exactly what I want (for better or for worse!!).

Will visit my local ALDI today and see if they have any. Have wanted one for my camper trailer for a while.

They are quoting $39.99 each. I plan to get two. Having one or two wheels stolen is every bit as bad as having all three stolen, IMHO!

I also have a set of security wheel nuts for the trailer wheels that match those on the car.

I have always used the safety chains and a padlock to lock the ball socket and hitch release.

When it is all finished, I will buy one of those keyed alike sets of padlocks from Bunnings. They used to sell marine grade ones that will stand up to the pretty rugged use they get on a trailer. My current one has been on it for over 10 years, both in the suburbs and at the beach, the latter with direct exposure to the ocean about 20 m away! Still works.

With what I am planning, everything will be locked down.
Of course, nothing will protect me against the crim with a 36 volt angle grinder ... However, they cost nearly as much as a trailer, and one is unlikely to find them being used in some remote camping ground!

 

[Ratbag]

Well. The day has arrived!

The 'new' old trailer is ready to roll .

After a sh*t fight with one person at VicRoads for about 12 minutes, I hung up and rang back.

This time I had their web page open in front of me where it stated:

"For trailers that do not have an identification number already stamped, VicRoads will issue an “R” number. This number must be stamped on the trailer before it can be registered.

You can have this "R" number issued to you by either calling us on 13 11 71 or attending any VicRoads Customer Service Centre.".

Seemed fairly unambiguous to me ...

Explained the problem that the first person seemed to be having with issuing a VIN number to me over the phone (actually, it is an "R" number ... ), and the above reference to their own web site.

The second person issued me with the VIN number on the spot ...
He also explained politely and in plain English the other steps I would need to take to register the trailer.
Took less than 3~4 minutes, all up.

Most people are here on this Earth to be helpful; but the occasional one seems to think that their role is to be obstructive, about anything and everything.

So now off to pick up the "new" beastie.
Registration can wait until next week, or the week after ...

In some 30 years living in Victoria, no one has ever bothered me about this trailer not being registered, or even about it displaying a South Australian registration plate ... :iconwink:.

 

[mr turbo]

Most people are here on this Earth to be helpful; but the occasional one seems to think that their role is to be obstructive, about anything and everything.

Had to laugh when I read that, sorry mate, but thats exactly the sort of thing (& people) that I have to deal with all day & every day at work :lol: :lol:

Great to hear that your trailers finished
I bet you can't wait to hook it up & take it out :ebiggrin:

Regards
Mr Turbo

 

[Ratbag]

Gidday Mr T

Had to laugh when I read that, sorry mate, but thats exactly the sort of thing (& people) that I have to deal with all day & every day at work :lol: :lol:

Great to hear that your trailers finished
I bet you can't wait to hook it up & take it out :ebiggrin:

Regards
Mr Turbo

It looks good!
In fact, considering what they had to work with , it looks exceptionally good!

The next step is getting the flaming thing registered.
It ticks all the boxes, but I will still take it with me when I go to the VicRoads office, just in case ...
I have only very rarely had pleasant dealings with any Roads Dept in any of the 3 States I have lived in ...

I took some photos tonight when I got home, but it will probably be the w/e before I get around to uploading and posting them.

Had to ramp the ISO a bit as the sun was setting and we were having what is euphemistically called "an occasional shower" here. Known as "rain" everywhere else but Victoria, AFAICT .

I am not planning going anywhere for a bit as have some pressing maintenance to do here ... like all new gutters, for starters.

 

[Ratbag]

Da Rig

Just home last night ... :biggrin:.

Da rig:

I will post some more photos of the details later on, when the pressure is off a bit. Under the hammer today and tomorrow.

 

[Davidov]

Wow the trailer came up awesomely with a coat of paint! Looking good!

 

[Ratbag]

Gidday David

Wow the trailer came up awesomely with a coat of paint! Looking good!

Didn't it though?!!

It hasn't been sandblasted or anything. I would have had this done if I were 20 years younger, but in another 5 years or so, I will not be able to do any of the things I am planning, so the paint job really only has to last that long. They just scruffed off the worst of the rust and then hit it with about 3 coats of hammer-tone.

Jimi & his employees have done a very nice job on it, with nothing being too much trouble. Quite apart from the big, obvious things, they did whole lots of little things, like locking points for the front and rear gates, new wiring harness, swinging number plate mount and light, adjustable locks for the lid, cut outs for the gate wing nuts so that I less likely to damage myself when screwing them on/off, reflectors all round, etc, etc.

I haven't even opened the lid yet to see what's inside!
Been tipping down rain here until about an hour ago.

 

[mr turbo]

Wow that looks fantastic Ratbag :ebiggrin:
Jimi & the guys did a top job alright

Regards
Mr Turbo

 

[carljwnc]

WOW!!! Looks fantastic. Can't wait to see some of the details. Sounds like those guys know, and enjoy what they do.

 

[Ratbag]

Trailer: After rebuild finished

Gidday Carl & Mr T

Wow that looks fantastic Ratbag :ebiggrin:
Jimi & the guys did a top job alright

Regards
Mr Turbo

WOW!!! Looks fantastic. Can't wait to see some of the details. Sounds like those guys know, and enjoy what they do.

Thanks, fellas.

They sure do. Amazing what you can achieve when you can just grab a spray gun and give whatever it is a quick spray, etc. No gear preparation etc etc when you are using these things every few minutes during the day.

They have certainly turned a scabrous, flea-bitten, rusty, broken excuse for a sow's ear into a 'silk purse' alright ... :lol: :ebiggrin: .

P/S view showing lid hinges (lid is removable), jerry can holder, wheel, side reflector, reinforcing box under lip for lid hinges.

Jerry can holder, number plate fixing and light, OEM wheels from a X (bought from Brett), lid, legs, lock tab for rear gate, adjustable lid lock (there is another one at the front), cut away for rear gate wing nuts.

In the workshop: Lid, jerry can holder, 'legs' for lid

Spare wheel mount and draw bar. The centre reinforcing angle iron bar extends to the box chassis, and has a removable 9 Kg gas bottle holder (so that I can drop the front gate at times).

Showing the legs that support the lid as a camp table when it is fully opened.

Tow hitch and chains, spare pillar, dolly wheel.

Rear gate lock point, rear adjustable lid lock.

Front lid lock, front gate lock point.

Draw bar detail with removable gas bottle ring, spare mounting post, centre draw bar reinforcement.

Gives some idea of the amount of work Jimi and the lads have done, and how well.

BTW, the lid legs 'lock' under the clips on the lid, and cannot go over-centre because of the short distance they protrude over the edge of the lid.

I opened the lid very briefly this morning. They have also sprayed the entire inside of the box. There are a couple of small leaks through a couple of the lid rivets, but I will fill these with silicon.

I intend to apply self-adhesive rubber seal around the bottom lip of the lid, and around the mating surfaces of the front and rear gates when it fines up here.

Better save this before I lose it!

 

[taza]

Nice, looks great mate. Im jealous!

Came up really well!!!

 

[Ratbag]

Thanks Taza

Nice, looks great mate. Im jealous!

Came up really well!!!

Scrubbed up pretty well for a 31 y.o. scrubber ... :lol: :ebiggrin:.

Think about it. That's quite a bit older than you are, LOL :iconwink: :biggrin:.

Seems to tow OK still. However, I am yet to tow it at highway speeds, but seems to tow straight and true. The heavier, larger wheels seem to give it a bit more solid feel on the ground. Of course, the extra weight in the lid and legs will also contribute to that. The lid with 2 O/S legs, 1 inside leg (prop) and sheet metal cover, lock latches etc is actually quite heavy.

Ended up costing about half what a new one with the lot would have cost me.
AND, much more importantly, I have got exactly what I wanted.
Hopefully also what I will need ... , lol.

Ameliorated the cost a little bit by doing some much-needed computer work for Jimi.

 

[taza]

haha, Yeah just abit older than me. Im another year older in 2 weeks anyway

You should of painted it WRX STI world rally blue and put gold rims on :lol:

I've had the conversation with a few people about modifying a car. They said why not just buy a brand new car for the total money thrown into the foz. The thing is though I wouldn't be happy at all with a brand new car, it wouldn't do what I want it to do. So i can see where your coming from there

 

[Ratbag]

G'day again Taz

haha, Yeah just abit older than me. Im another year older in 2 weeks anyway

Many happy returns of the day for it, mate. Enjoy every single one that you are granted.

You should of painted it WRX STI world rally blue and put gold rims on :lol:

I've had the conversation with a few people about modifying a car. They said why not just buy a brand new car for the total money thrown into the foz. The thing is though I wouldn't be happy at all with a brand new car, it wouldn't do what I want it to do. So i can see where your coming from there

There's the crux of the matter.

I actually prefer the 2006 Fox to the later models. It also comes with a very significant capital benefit - about 40% of the price of a similarly equipped new one, with around 2/3 of its economic life left In kms and years); PLUS I prefer it ...

I am somewhat attached to my old trailer. It's done an awful lot of work, one way and another. Lots of memories. They do not "transfer" to a new trailer. It could be fixed. It was reasonably economical to fix it. I'm glad I did.

Same goes for your Forester.

Funny how we become attached to inanimate objects; but we do .

 

[Ratbag]

Gidday All

Put the wheel security nuts on this morning to keep the "what's yours is mine" crowd at arm's length, at least.

Checked the clearances and mating surfaces for putting sealing tape around the lid and front & rear gates. Should be fine. I have more or less decided on the door draught-sealing tape for this, as the hollow section should take up irregularities much better than solid micro-cell sponge.

First chance I have had to do any of this since I got it back from Jimi.

I missed out on getting any of the 2 wheel clamps that Aldi actually had in stock for their "sale". Gave their head office a blast about this, as I consider this kind of "sucker bait" advertising of specials when little or no stock is actually available to be dishonest and unethical.

I have now decided to use high tensile chain with a plastic tube cover to lock both wheels together with padlocks. I will run this up over the draw bar, so that I don't have to grovel in the dirt to fit/undo.

The safety chains wrapped over the hitch provide all the security needed at that point.

If someone REALLY wants to steal it, they will do it regardless. A 36 volt angle grinder would make short work of anything that I can do. One can only make it as difficult (and noisy) as possible for them to do it.
Ditto regarding breaking in to it. It can only be made very/extremely difficult; not impossible.

All this just stops the casual thief from pinching stuff when one is parked somewhere and gone for a walk to take some photos, or whatever. Certainly slows them down a lot; and speed is almost always of the essence if one is doing this sort of thing.

Any thoughts about any of this are welcome, of course ...

 

[Ratbag]

Gidday All

I have felt up to doing a bit of experimenting with securing the trailer today.

Found some old security cables.

Found that locking the wheels has a simple solution, after this has given me a couple of different thoughts and grief, and all involving spending money. This always makes my CCs do this ... and then this at me ... :rotfl:.

I can't believe that it is so simple. Haven't uploaded the photos yet, but it is as simple as threading a 940 mm long security cable through the wheel, then taking the other end up to the 1" diameter tie down bar that runs along the side of the trailer, wrapping it around it to take up the small amount of slack, then locking it with a padlock :iconwink: :ebiggrin:.

The wheels already have security wheel nuts on them to prevent casual theft. Same pattern key as I already had on Roo2, so there is some redundancy of tools and spares.

I need TEN (10) keyed alike 40 mm shackle padlocks to lock everything!!

• 2 for the gate locks
• 2 for the lid
• 2 for the two jerry cans - also worked out how to use a security cable to both lock the jerry can to the trailer, and the lock the caps so that the petrol can't be stolen, or the water polluted
• 2 for the wheels
• one for the gas bottle and spare
• one for the tow hitch - locks the safety chains onto the tow bar points when the trailer is attached to Roo2. This stops the trailer from being stolen by removing the tow ball pin, and flogging the lot. The safety chain attachment points are welded to the outer part of the tow bar on the car. This would require removal of the whole tow bar assembly. Easier to go away and buy a 36 volt angle grinder to cut the locks off ...

NONE of this is any guarantee that someone won't steal the lot! However, one thing that being a Neighbourhood Watch zone leader for about 25 years taught me is that you just have to make it easier for a crook to rob someone else than it is to rob you ... Sad and cynical, but true.

I also got to flip the lid over to check out how well it is likely to work as a camp table; and how well the legs work. It seems to work fine, except that it is heavier than I had started to think it might be (actually, it is as heavy as I originally thought it would be ... ).
The tipping point is where I had trouble, as I did this from the front today (can't really get at the back easily when it is parked in the drive). From the rear it should be far easier. I think I need to rivet two 'D' handles on the opening side, and one on the rear edge so that I can hang onto it as I tip it over while minimising the risks associated with it slipping out of my grasp.

While doing all this, I got to look at the trailer better. It is a bit rough in some ways (so are brand new trailers, for that matter ... ); but should serve me well. I probably ought to buy a can (or two ... ) of dark grey hammer tone paint so that I can patch the bits that they missed.