A New Trailer for the Ratbag ...

Gidday Folks

This has been an epic in the making!

[EDIT]

For a distillation of the design factors that I eventually came up with for my trailer and tent, see this post and the following post.

The fitting and commissioning of my camper trailer tent is in a separate thread, here.

[end edit]

My 7x4 trailer is just over 30 years old.
The tyres are also 30 y.o. ... 165x13.
The wheels are possibly 20 years older than that; probably Holden rims, I don't know.

About 10~13 years ago, I had the ladder frame replaced with 2x1" structural box. I also had the floor and half way up the sides replaced with 16 gauge galvanised steel.

The front has been converted to a drop front.

The spare wheel holder has mostly rusted through, and needs replacement.

The wheel bearings, axle, hubs and springs are in good serviceable condition.

The trailer tows straight and true at all speeds (up to over 130 km/h).

It really needs 3x new wheels and tyres, and an urgent replacement of the spare wheel holder bar.

After that, it needs some love and affection; some minor repairs that any competent handyman with a welder can do; some elbow grease with a wire brush and sand paper, and a repaint.

Beyond me, and even if it weren't, I cannot fit 16x6.5" Subaru wheels on it without replacing the axle; hubs; mud guards - you get the drift. Cost more for me to have someone else do all this than a new, purpose-built trailer!!

I have found someone this arvo who has helped me source proper hubs to fit my Subie steel wheels. Proper clearance. No extra over 'standard' hubs for the hubs, or the axle. This was a BIG hurdle!!

So. 6x4 box trailer with 18~20" sides, and a locking lid and 16x6.5" Subie wheels.

The company can do the whole job; including water/fuel jerry can holders; tool box; side mount spare wheel; side opening steel lid; gas bottle holder - including locking brackets all over the place.

Judging from the trailers under construction on the floor, they are not into making crap! Their "basic duty" trailer makes most "heavy duty" trailers I have looked at look lightly built ...

Have had a rough guesstimate. Will get a proper quote from them next week.

To be continued - as the story unfolds ...
 
Last edited:
Click to expand...
Well done Ratbag :ebiggrin:

Great to hear that it's now all legal & ready to go :woohoo:

Regards
Mr Turbo
 
Ratbag,

Regarding the clearance between the wheels and the trailer frame. I have a similar issue on my trailer, about the same age as yours and caused by the same situation; new axle. I had about 15 mm between the tyre and frame which I thuoght was a bit small. While not considered best practice if you wanted to add some more clearance you could put on hub spacers that should get you another 8-12mm depending on how much wheel stud length you have to play with.

Hub spacers will increase the shear forces on the wheel studs. However, the forces applied to the studs on a trailer wheel that is being towed and not loaded to the same degree as a car should not be a problem.

I have loaded my trailer maybe even overloaded it a bit :iconwink: and never had an issue with any rubbing. I believe it would only be an issue if either, the axle bent (in which case you have seriously overloaded the trailer and been lucky not to break something) or the axle/spring moved – springs/mounting bolts do break.

To the board - While I have seen that hub spacers are excluded from use on cars I haven’t read anything that says they can’t be used on trailer - I would be happy to be corrected or directed to the place that can address this question- Hmmm!!
 
Gidday Dave

Thanks for that info. I had thought of using maybe 5 to 8 mm spacers (I have plenty of wheel stud thread to play with ... ). Good to hear of your experience.

Any idea where I can get some?

The new axle is machined out of 40 mm steel bar, so I doubt that it is going to break in a hurry. The hubs are specials for Subaru wheels (they make them up as a "standard" hub for wheels with small centre holes), but they take the standard size tapered roller bearing used by Melbourne Trailer Supplies. I reckon that it would be pretty hard to damage any of these components while maintaining an AVM of 750 Kgs or less.

Having a new axle made that would (finally) be the right length would cost around $110-130, so not a big deal. If the spacers cost even a small fraction of this, I would be better off getting a slightly longer axle, perhaps.

I need to take the trailer out and park it on some irregular surfaces and check the axle/spring movement. Not the same as in use, but should give me some idea of the adequacy of the existing clearance.
 
Ratbag,

I made mine, but you can get them off ebay https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/8MM-5-S...=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a1ca71cf7

My trailer has been loaded unevenly i.e. loading with sand and filling one side and then the other side. I checked when the load was over one wheel and still no rubbing (with the 15mm clearance). It was getting close and could have been an issue if I was going over rough ground. You need to be seriously unevenly loaded to get the top of the wheels to scrub.
 
G'day again Dave

Had a look at the 5 mm spacers at Autobarn. Same as the ones you posted on fleabay - not centred.

Your observations about uneven and heavy loads is also very helpful.

It is very unlikely that I will ever have this situation.

Maybe I should just keep an eye on it for the time being, and check for any signs of rubbing periodically.

Thanks for your thoughts on this.
 
Well, we've had 2-3 inches of rain here the last couple of days, and not a single drop got into the tag-along ... :ebiggrin: :biggrin:.

Of course, towing in pouring rain is another thing altogether, but a good static test.
 
Thats good to hear Ratbag :ebiggrin:

But as you say, actual towing is a different story :iconwink: I'm sure it'll be fine though :)

Regards
Mr Turbo
 
Finally got an opportunity to take the trailer out and rooster its leg on a ledge about 400-500 mm higher than the roadway. Parked it there. In first LR, Roo2 had not the slightest difficulty climbing the vertical edge of the ledge. Also no problem dragging the P/S trailer wheel up onto the top of the ledge. During this on and off exercise, the car and trailer changed position dramatically relative to each other. Again, no issues at all with the hitch or instability of either car or trailer.

With the P/S of both car and trailer parked on top of the ledge, the angle of the axle to the box changed a little bit, and the clearance between the tyre top and the box only altered by a couple of millimetres at the most - i.e. plenty of clearance remaining.

I doubt very much that I would ever have the vehicle and trailer in such a situation IRL. I nearly fell out of the driver's seat onto the road when I opened the door ...

All in all, this little experiment has given me considerably more confidence about the ability of the trailer (and Roo2) to negotiate tricky spots; and in the clearance between the tyres and the insides of the trailers mudguards about which I had been quite concerned.
 
Thanks, Mr T

A few metres running along a little bank like the one I found doesn't really sound much, but both car and trailer have to lift their wheels straight up this height going along parallel and climbing the bank.
The bank wasn't very high, but it was perpendicular. There was no "on ramp" or "off ramp", I had to climb straight up the bank; then drive off it in the same manner.
I really expected the trailer to refuse to climb up, but it didn't.
I expected it to slide off the bank when coming down and become unstable as it did so, but again, it didn't. All happened in a very nicely controlled manner.

Very pleased with how well it followed the car. Far better than I expected.

Now I just need to get some bits of equipment together to complement the camping/travelling gear I already have. I have given some thought to what I might need, but need to formulate these into a list ...

Major items that spring to mind are portable loo and shower gear to cope with my specific needs; second battery setup in the trailer; big tarp for camp fly; FindMeSpot; portable blood testing machine (bloody expensive!!!!). I have most of the ordinary camping type stuff; just not the "expeditioning" type stuff.
 
Gidday Folks

Finally drilled and tapped a thread in the coupling on my trailer. Put in an adjustment bolt and lock nut. Works well.

Had it certified weighed this morning - 140 Kgs empty with spare and lid. The tent is another 100 Kgs.

Also ordered an OzTrail Camper 6 tent for my trailer, along with the optional "sun room". Paid the deposit, and might be able to pick it up in Mildura week after next, if things get a little less hectic than they have been lately!! Will upload some pics later, if I get time. Kulkyne will help me to fit it, if necessary.

As I have mentioned earlier in this thread, I had decided to sell my existing trailer and buy an MDC one with tent and goodies. Due to other more important things, I only got around to checking out current prices and availability this week. Prices have gone up about $1,000 in January, and the options pack has gone from about $350 (?) to $880, for fewer goodies. That tipped the scales well in favour of the OzTrail 6, and keeping my existing trailer.

It might seem a bit odd to put a 6x4 tent on a 7x4 trailer, but I had come to the conclusion that the smaller tent will be easier to set up and take down, and is more than spacious enough for me. The existing trailer top can easily be adapted to take it.

The Camper 6 is also narrower than the Camper 7 when stowed, and is about 150 mms narrower than the outer edge of the mudguards on each side. The Camper 7 is wider than the guards. This should make it better if the going gets tight.

The Camper 6 is also designed to fit on a trailer that is 840 to 900 mms from ground to lip (12" or 300 mm sides), whereas the Camper 7 fits a trailer that is 1000 to 1100 mms high (500 mm sides). Mine is 885 mms ... :biggrin: :cool:.

IMO the OzTrail Camper 6 is also better designed and made than the Chinese tents. Has both internal and external window flaps, and the external ones can be used as sunshades (comes with the poles). Plenty of tie down points for guy ropes if windy. High quality, heavy weight Oz canvas that is guaranteed waterproof. The tents are made in Brisbane.

It already has an awning that comes with the tent (bed area, separate ground level area with heavy duty vinyl floor) and an open awning that is quite large. The sun room adds walls with windows (internal and external) to the awning, and a heavy duty vinyl floor. Bigger than some flats (US = apartments) I have been in!!

The tent also "opens" on the correct side, i.e. the same side as the hinges on the trailer top. This will allow me to access the trailer underneath the tent, even with the tent erected (as well as via the rear gate).

Comes with a travel cover, all poles, struts, stays.

Jimi will do the internal structural mods next week. Move the support stay. Put a new wheel in the dolly wheel. Add some serious gas struts for the tent.

Hope to pick up a bolt on tool box for the A bar next week, also a fridge and battery pack and a few other bits and pieces ... :biggrin: :ebiggrin:.

It's been a LONG time coming!!
 
^ Thanks, HC.

Boy, have I been on a spending spree this morning!! :lildevil:

I have had a Repco sale brochure sitting on the kitchen bench for some weeks - ends 23 March ...

Rang them up this morning first thing, and they had everything I wanted.

So, off to Repco in Warrigal Road. Very nice helpful people. Shane is a Subie lover ... :biggrin:.

1) Tradie's tool box. Aluminium. Pretty well made. 1220 (L) x 355 (D) x 400 (W). Jimi will need to chop a bit off the angle iron sides of the front gate so that it will fit properly (just ... ).

2) Pair of 1200 Kg chassis stands (will double as stabiliser legs for the trailer when camping).

3) 5L of Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 FS and oil filter for SWMBO's SH.

4) Gasmate 3 way 35L fridge (I didn't know these were still made! Cheaper than one often sees them on eBay ... ).

5) 8" jockey wheel to replace my cactus ordinary one. Have fitted this :).

6) Couple of plastic wheel chocks.

7) LED head light, as old one had died, and very useful.

On to Jaycar ...

8) Very basic multi function jumper battery - but will do everything I need it to do; accepts power from anywhere; really cheap - $169. Is currently on charge for 24-36 hours. Charges faster in the car than on 240V, will have to see what I have in the way of (relatively) big grunt 240V wall-warts lying around doing nothing ... Has a LED light and compressor built in, along with 2x normal 12V outlets; 2.1A USB outlet; 240V inverter for a drain of up to 400W (the battery will last about 5 minutes at this sort of discharge - it's only an 18 amp/hour normal lead-acid gel battery ... actually, around an hour, according to the instructions ... :rotfl:).

On to SCA ...

9) Oricom 300 micro 5W UHF (no aerial/s or brackets at this stage - will check out HC's findings for those).

On to Ray's Camping ...

10) A really cheap multi-function tool that I bought because it had a decent belt pouch, and was as cheap as the crappy belt pouches I had seen for my Henry Boker pocket knife! The m-f tool is better than I expected, so will chuck it in the glove box.

All for quite a bit less than $1,000! Normal prices for all this stuff adds up to around $1,400+, so I'm pretty happy that everything seemed to be on special all at once :ebiggrin: :biggrin:.
 
Sounds like someone's been a little busy :p
Great to hear that your trailer's coming along nicely :)

Regards
Mr Turbo
 
^ It's getting there, mate ... Taken long enough ... :raz:. Only about two years!

I'm really, REALLY looking forward to the drive to Mildura to pick up the camper tent when it arrives.

Taking the trailer to Dandenong the other day, I was just blown away by how easily Roo2 towed it, and how well it still tows after the massive rebuild. Changing the drawbar and axle could have affected its towing dynamics very badly, but it doesn't appear to have had any deleterious effects at all.

Even though the trailer has no brakes, the braking force, directional stability and other dynamics are still excellent.

Have been doing heaps around home, and lots of business ends that are gradually being tied up. Hopefully the latter will be finished by the end of the coming week.

The Oricom came without the Owner's Manual ... Have to install this too.

Still have to learn how to use the battery box and the fridge.

Lots to do here, and for my client, in the mean time ... :/.
 
Currently have the Gasmate fridge plugged into the 240V. Has dropped the temperature around 5°C in about 2.5 hours (ambient is around 20°C).

A $1,500 Danfoss compressor fridge it certainly isn't, but should do what I want it to do. Which is to keep drinks cool, and stop food going dead(er) and nasty within a day or so, and sloshing around in defrosted ice ... .

I can also use it for making freezer blocks cold, and then wrapping them in a towel and chucking them into the insulated bag with my medications if they are getting too warm. Most have to be kept below 30°C at all times.

Apparently these fridges are least effective when running on 12V, but I will run it on gas when camping, or 240V if at a powered site (I will carry about 45m of heavy duty extension cords with me). Many people have commented on this here, so I was well aware of what I was getting.

I may also decide to carry an Esky with me just as a "cool room" for some things.

The new jockey wheel works a treat. I even went so far as to get out my metal cutting saw and bench grinder to modify the back mounting brackets so they are less sharp and dangerous to me when stepping over the tow bar. I damaged my arm the other day on the spare wheel post, and it took 3 days to stop bleeding.
 
^ After 3.5 hours on 240V, the fridge is at around 9°C, i.e. a total drop of around 11°C in 3.5 hours.
 
^ after 4.5 hours on 240V, the temp is now about 6.5°C.

That's nearly colder than our refrigerator! :) :cool:
 
^ Yup, NL ... :biggrin: :lildevil:.

The Gasmate now seems to be steady at a tad under 5°C. It will have to live in the cargo area when moving.

I think I've found the perfect spot for mounting the Oricom UHF300 Micro.

I have also found a 16.8V 1A PS for the battery box (a bit more grunt than the 16.6V 500mA one that came with it!). I have also found a 14.7V 2.2A one, but the plug is too short. However, I have a packet full of longer plugs ... :iconwink:.

The Powertech unit from Jaycar is now fully charged. It will power a 4 port USB hub. At 500mA per port, the 2.1A the Powertech provides from its USB connector will be perfect for charging all those gadgets, and keeping items like my backup GPS fully charged.

It is fairly small and light. Weighs about 11.6 Kgs and has an 18 amp/hour battery. Bundles of power for running a heap of LED lights in and around my trailer tent. Will fit nicely behind the front passenger seat on the floor. Has rubber armour around all the corners and edges, so should be resistant to damage, and also shouldn't damage the trim.

Also fixed my 55 y.o. pocket knife belt pouch that my older brother made for me when we were kids :ebiggrin: :biggrin:. I am very attached to it (and to him ... :iconwink:). I've had the Boker pocket knife nearly as long ...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top