A New Trailer for the Ratbag ...

Tweaksta · Aug 11, 2014

......and the most important bit of kit???

A shed! :rotfl:

Oh how I wish I had a shed, or a workshop....

Ratbag · Aug 11, 2014

We have a carport that's been enclosed before we bought the house.

It will be a very nice workshop and trailer house for me, eventually ...

ATM, it's full of poop, much of it still there after our move 8 (!) years ago.

Over the last 15 months, we have removed an old international shipping crate that served as a garden shed, and erected a 4.25 x 2.20 m kiln and art workshop for my SWMBO - she has finished her Diploma in Ceramics at Dandy TAFE last year (with great distinction, I might add - a real credit to her application, competency and artistic skills and talent). Now she has both her gas kiln (8 cu.ft. Port O Kiln) and her big grunt, but far smaller, electric kiln installed and working. It has work benches, sink with hot & cold water and sullage; special sub-mains switch board with a 40 amp supply circuit (the electric kiln draws 27A at full belt ... ); lights; plenty of power points; external 45L gas bottles x 2, etc.
It fitted in the place we have it located with tolerances of ±0.75" (literally) ...

She is now doing a Bachelor of Fine Arts (Ceramics) degree at Uni.

Guess where all the garden tools and other crap went?
You guessed correctly.

I am in serious trailer finishing and equipping mode ATM, so clearing the crap out of the 'garage' will have to wait until I get back from my trip. Clearing a place for the trailer shouldn't be all that hard. Going through all the other garbage will take longer.

There is a decent work bench that's carefully placed for someone who's 6'7" tall. I need to drop that by at least 4". I will probably start by clearing that area.

I need the electrician to run a 30A supply to the garage. It's currently on a circuit that supplies all the power points on the north side of the house, including all the TV and stereo gear, two of the computers and lots of other miscellaneous electrics and electronics, including an air conditioner. NOT a good circuit to run a welder off!! He can run the circuit up through the roof of my study, behind a beam over the entry, then into the garage. Then just a matter of severing the garage's current connection to circuit #2. My study has its own circuit (#5). The rest of the house is supplied by about 5 more power circuits, three lighting, and some special purpose (stove, other kitchen, air cons, pool equipment and kiln shed). It is only circuit #2 that's got too many GPOs on it, and it also supplies the garage! Bugger. I can use circuit #5, just have to turn off my PC and other electronics in my study before I do. My study is right near the front door, and quite close to the front of the garage. About 10m maximum run distance.

ATM, I'm probably better off running the welder off one of the other circuits and using a heavy duty 18m, 20m or 25m extension cord. And yes, I do know the voltage drop implicit in this arrangement, but better than spiking half the electronics in the house ...

.

Amazing what writing all this waffle can do. I just remembered that I have a very heavy duty 15A extension cord (made it up to run a 15A kiln we used to have). This should just be long enough to reach from Circuit #4's nearest power point to the front of the house when combined with the 4m lead on the welder itself. The 8m extension cord is considerably heavier gauge than the welder's own power cord, so voltage drop should be minimal. FTM, so are both my 25m extension cords. Can't find my 18m cord ATM, but it is the same as both the 25m cords.

I have welded with my old welder at the end of a 30m extension cord and it did work OK, so the new welder should also be OK. My old welder drew 15A, and had a 15A plug on it. Due to improvements in the intervening 40 years, the new welder only uses 10A in its primary circuit, for the same output amperage. Better materials and better flux transfer between the primary and secondary coils due to better design would account for this improvement.

Now I'm really drifting ... sorry.

Also sorry that you don't have a workshop. Could you build one? Do you have anywhere where one could fit? Now that I have a welder, fabbing something like this is a piece of the proverbial. Even a 3x3m shed with double doors is big enough ...

Ratbag · Aug 14, 2014

New hitch coupling - McHitch

Gidday Folks

I figured that the hitch on my trailer is now some 30+ years old, and so is my tow ball.

With the change in my intended use, I have sprung for one of these 2 tonne bolt-on replacements from McHitch, here:

https://mchitch.com.au/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15_11&products_id=35

Looks like a brilliant bit of design, and they are spoken highly of over at myswag.org. The universal in the coupling is a standard universal from a Landcruiser!

I have seen a photo of one of these that's in the boot of the car after a prang, but it didn't break or dislodge the coupling!

Ratbag · Aug 15, 2014

Managed to extract and edit the photograph of it so that it looks reasonable ...

The pointy bit is what bolts onto the tow bar instead of the 50 mm ball.

Once the hitch is locked onto the tow bar pin, it does not move at all. The universal joint and rotation of the hitch shaft provide all the rotational, horizontal and vertical movements.

It should be theoretically possible to turn the trailer upside down while it's still attached to the vehicle, AFAICS.

$169 delivered ...

:biggrin:

Ratbag · Aug 19, 2014

Got the new hitch today ...

:ebiggrin:.
Even better than it looked on paper :biggrin:!
It's surely a serious bit of kit!! :bananatoast:

It's about 4" longer, or a bit more. This is to the good, as will give more clearance for the jockey wheel handle when reversing/packing up. This had to be moved forward on the A-bar when the spare was reversed to fit the toolbox.

I will remove the old 50 mm ball from the tow tongue and trailer, take some pics, and fit the new ones tomorrow.

Also got the trailer back from Jimi with the main mods done. Very reasonable price (about 1/2 what I expected!).

Just got to practice my welding tomorrow, he forgot to weld on the side stays for the spare wheel post. He said "If you find it too hard, or you don't feel comfortable with using the welder any more, just bring it back in and I'll fix it up for you". I said "You're a bloody nice bloke, Jimi", to which he replied "and you're a bloody nice customer, RB".

More tomorrow ...

Ratbag · Aug 20, 2014

Gidday Folks

Spent most of today so far preparing my new McHitch trailer coupling for fitting.

"Drop on" apparently means:

- drilling out the existing front holes slightly (right size and position, wrong angle);

-straightening the front bolts on the hitch slightly (not drilled exactly square when made - wouldn't matter if the holes weren't exactly the same diameter as the bolts; i.e. no slack. I don't mind that as it means the coupling bolts can't flog themselves to death);

- drilling a new rear hole for the rear bolt on the new hitch (my existing ball coupling is a three hole 50 mm ball hitch fitting; but it is over 30 y.o., so can't really expect these things to be as simple that when dealing with parts that are very nearly half as old as I am!);

- scraping and wire brushing the metal moths off under where the old hitch was; then hitting it with a coat of cold galv paint.

- Just waiting for that to get touch dry, then will hit it with a top coat of enamel. It doesn't have to be perfect, just not bare metal!

At least the old ball came off easily with my 15" shifter. So did the old hitch, FTM.

The new McHitch coupling is about 4"+ longer than the existing ball hitch, which won't do any harm at all. Just hope my safety chains are long enough ...

Have also cut some 20x20 mm to make side supports for my spare wheel pole. While I have no doubt that the existing welding at its base would never crack or break, the vibration that I see in my rear vision mirror drives me nuts - that is, nuttier than usual ... .

Reversed the lid struts so that they are the right way around (guys were in a hurry yesterday ... ).

Cut the 20x20 mm safety support stay that I use when the trailer lid is open to the new correct length and angle. I don't trust gas struts since being king-hit by the bonnet of our Camry one day ....

For me, this amounts to an extremely productive day :biggrin: . I often can't do anything more physical than lying on the bed all day.

Haven't done any welding yet, but maybe tomorrow. Am getting everything out of the way, cutting and grinding the steel stays to shape, in between taking photos and preparing the hitch plate so it doesn't rust quite so quickly as it was ...

Nice feeling to be working with steel again

.
It has been rather a long time - well over 30 years ... :poke:

:iconwink:.

Ratbag · Aug 20, 2014

Finally got the new hitch to fit my A-bar hitch mounting plate.

Several magic words were spoken ... :iconwink:.

Thankfully, the safety chains appear to be exactly the right length for the new coupling (it's about 4"+ longer than the 50 mm ball coupling). They were slightly too long for all my cars to date, by about one link. I have always used the second link to fasten them until now. I will have to check that they are OK for length when the trailer is on full lock to the car tomorrow. Too buggered tonight!

The company that make the hitch state that the tow tongue 'pin' should be torqued up to 220 ft.lbs.! My tension wrench only goes to 160 ft.lbs., so stuck my 15" German-made shifter on the nut and pulled it up as tight as I could, with one foot on the tow tongue. That's how I've always done tow balls up to date, and I have yet to have one even look like coming loose. Quite the contrary. Some have been an ugly all-in brawl to remove when necessary ... :poke:

.

The three hitch to hitch plate studs have a mere 50-60 ft.lbs. I did this by ear ... It is around the torque setting for head studs/bolts on about half the cars I have ever owned.

The trailer is now affixed to the car with the new coupling. Looks good, extremely strong, and should work far better than my faithful 50 mm ball coupling, specially for reversing; but also for off-road use - 90° on every axis.

I took quite a few photos, so will post some up while recuperating from today's exertions!

Ratbag · Aug 21, 2014

It's certainly a very impressively designed and manufactured bit of work ... :biggrin:.

I got SWMBO to check the safety chain length in extreme positions this morning. The length (degree of looseness) doesn't change even when the jockey wheel is almost touching the back bumper - i.e. with the trailer at nearly 75-90° to the car. This is quite different from the ball hitch, where the length of the safety chains varied considerably, dependent on the position of the trailer. It was also impossible to get the trailer anywhere near this angle to the car with the 50 mm ball hitch.

Comparison of the two hitches:

Hitch pin mounted on the tow tongue. I had to put the shin protector on under the tow tongue upside down (and trim it a bit ... ), otherwise the hitch coupling wouldn't fit properly over the pin:

Connected to the car:

I will post up some more photos of the fitting process later on.

Have just taken it for a spin around the block and over a few speed humps (20 kmh ones at 30 kmh).
It's like towing a completely different trailer!

Smoother riding (for both trailer and car ... ). Zero noise from the coupling. Handling is different in a positive way, but who can tell at 30-60 kmh? Directionally more stable around corners and roundabouts, and even in a straight line.

I'm very happy at this point ... :poke:

:ebiggrin: :biggrin:.

Twinklz · Aug 21, 2014

I like that hitch! Will be buying one soon!

Ratbag · Aug 21, 2014

Gidday Twink

Specially when reversing. I managed to reverse it into our drive and line it up exactly with the wheel chocks without much difficulty at all. No way was this sort of precision possible with the 50 mm ball hitch. Just couldn't be done - and I have a LOT of experience at backing things! I hold a National Heavies licence, and have backed two four wheel trailers loaded with wheat sacks aligning with an unloading platform when both hooked to one of our tractors at the same time.

Apart from the above, I have just lost about 15 minutes worth of typing ... The bloody OzHitch web site video crashed my browser, and my reply text went with it ... :puke:

.

This hitch is a whole new experience in towing for me.

All the others I have looked at had at least three major flaws:

1) Design;

2) Far too hard to attach/detach to/from my vehicle - even harder than my old 50 mm ball hitch; and

3) Price! The nearest competitor is OzHitch, who want $357 for what appears to me to be an inferior and overly complex design (also a 2 tonne hitch). The video showing how easy it is to attach (the one that crashed my browser ... ) is done without the hitch being attached to any kind of trailer!! Geez, who the hell do they think they are kidding?

I also note that in their video of off-road driving, OzHitch haven't even got the safety chains crossed over, as required by the AS and VBS1 (IIRC ... ). Now THAT really does have whiskers on it!

Other brands are even more expensive again. One could be forgiven for thinking that they were made out of spray painted platinum ... The McHitch is called the "Platinum Edition" because it is supposedly corrosion resistant, rather than after the precious metal price ...

The McHitch can be also folded back over itself and locked in that position (suitable lock and/or security cable NOT supplied ... ). This makes it harder to steal quickly and/or quietly.

If you think that I'm sold on this thing, you wouldn't be wrong ... :poke:

:ebiggrin: :biggrin:.

Scooby2 · Aug 21, 2014

I got the giggles and had to ask... if you are a converted McHitch lover... does that make you a McRat?

Best regards ;-)

Ratbag · Aug 21, 2014

Ah well, S2.

Maybe because I'm almost ready to start packing, I'm turning into a PackRat, or a McPackRat ... :lol: :rotfl:.

Almost all of today was spent with SWMBO helping her with the arcana of using her computer to do her Uni course work.
She's getting there, but a long and painful process for her ( ... and for me, at times ... ).

Tomorrow is supposed to be fine, and SWMBO is at Uni all day till late, so I might get into the trailer tweaking.

I need to take it down to SCA and buy a storage cover for it. Those travel covers costs a BOMB!! They are relatively resistant to UV and the weather generally, but the manufacturer does recommend that they have a cover over them when parked outside for long periods. Eventually, I will clear a spot in the garage for it. Probably after I get back.

The cover will double as a ground sheet for underneath the ground floor room when camped. At $13.50 each, I might even get two ... :iconwink:. I also intend to tie this (or these ... ) down over the travel cover when travelling to protect it from flying sticks, stones and kangaroos ...

Ratbag · Aug 22, 2014

Some photos of the new McHitch

Gidday Folks

Some I just uploaded.

The old faithful 50 mm ball:

Hitch plate with metal moths and pilot hole drilled to new rear mounting bolt hole:

After a bit of scraping and wire brushing, and spraying with some metal moth repellent. I put an enamel top coat on before fitting the hitch:

The new pin to fit the new hitch - note that I have turned the shin guard upside down and trimmed it so that the locating lugs on each side of the hitch that fit over the edges of the 75mm wide tow tongue will fit properly and securely:

Easily do this sort of angle in three dimensions. It is also easy to remove or refit the hitch when in this position - useful for a recovery ... Notice how the longer hitch allows far more acute angle between the car and trailer.

A close up or two:

Note the locating lugs on each side of the tow tongue in the shot above.

From above:

This shows the car and trailer positions when the above shots were taken:

Ratbag · Aug 23, 2014

Somewhere along the line, I forgot to mention that the trailer went to Jimi early last week.

He has reversed the struts so that I can lift the lid, albeit with some difficulty, but it now stays up once opened. I can close it easily. The struts might need some extra gas, but not much.

He also moved the P/S Jerry can holder to the D/S front; and filled in the gap at the P/S rear with holders for two 4 Kg gas bottle holders with a shelf under them.

Maybe tomorrow if the weather is reasonable, I will start work on making the hole in the sheet steel of the lid for access to the trailer bed via the access hatch in the base board of the tent.

I have also cut the stays for the spare wheel pole to length and shape, just needed to get some cold galv and top coat for them. They need to be primed before welding in place, then hit the welds with primer while they are still hot. I will have to remove the tool box to weld these properly. Will also have to remove the new hitch and get at the underneath of the trailer hitch plate.

Hopefully some of the above might get done tomorrow!

Bought some gear at Aldi sale today:

1) 10x 250 mm LED lights with Y-connector. Run off 12V or 240V. Multi coloured (and white ...

), with a remote control and dimmer. They have 3M tape on the back, so should just attach to the internal frame of my trailer tent, and fold up with it. If necessary, a few well placed cable ties can help them along.

2) "2 tonne winch". Its actual safe working load is about 250-500 kgs, and will be very useful on the odd occasion when I want to lift the lid+tent off the trailer. Their total weight is around 150 kgs (max) so well within the SWL of the thing, even using it for lifting.

3) a 1 kg fire extinguisher and blanket.

I'm knackered, and have to go to bed ... :iconwink:

Ratbag · Sep 5, 2014

Got the struts re-gassed from 700N to 1,000N yesterday. Now the lid goes up and down easily, even with my sore back.

Today I welded the two stabilising stays onto the spare wheel post. Don't look at the welds too closely ... They're pretty rough, but strong enough.

Photos in my camera. Will try to upload and post them tomorrow, after I have covered up the crappy welds with a bit more paint ... :poke:

:lol:.

Ratbag · Oct 19, 2014

My trailer goes to Jimi tomorrow to have the final modifications made for properly mounting the tent on it. So my mate and I had to remove the tent (about 100 Kgs ... ) from it yesterday, as Jimi will need to use the oxy-spanner to fix a few things up.

Ratbag · Oct 22, 2014

Jimi rang.

The trailer's ready to be picked up tomorrow morning.
Hopefully this is the last visit, and I will be able to start the final fitting of the tent when I get it home, and the fitting out of the interior of the tub.

Other than that, today's been the latest in a series of not very good days for me.
At least SWMBO's major academic assignment (50% of the marks in this subject), is all but complete. I have been chief proof reader and critic. It's hard to be hard and harsh, but that's what's needed. Better for it to be me than the marker ... She did this for me when I first went back to Uni when we first got together over 30 years ago. I'm just returning the favour.

Ratbag · Oct 24, 2014

OK.

Picked up trailer.

Realised that I had left my spare set of keys at Jimi's. Went back (with trailer) and picked them up. Mentioned to Jimi about a couple of bits that he had forgotten - they weren't written on the lid top with a felt pen along with all the drawings and explanations ... My fault as much as his.

Left the trailer.

Picked up the trailer again yesterday afternoon.

Put a coat of cold galvanising paint all over the new bits after grinding off the dags with my mate's angle grinder.

This morning, I took the spare off again. Re-routed the wiring to where it will be when it's finished (more or less ... ). Painted the new bits with a top coat. It now looks even more leopard-like ... :iconwink:

.

Where I welded side braces onto the spare wheel post works a treat. No wobble at all in my rear vision mirror

.

The new struts are so strong (without the camper tent fitted) that the only way to close the lid is for two people to stand on where they attach to the lid while someone else closes it ... They are disconnected ATM. Will be fine once the tent is re-fitted. With only the front one fitted, attempting to close the lid causes the 1/2" hinge pin and socket to cause the side of the trailer to flex, and the front of the lid doesn't bend at all. Should be far more rigid again once the tent base board is bolted on :ebiggrin:.

Today's other jobs are to get the LED reversing lights fitted to it, and run the wiring for them. Also plan to start marking out where the trailer tub fittings and dividers will go. I might also get the front tool box re-fitted after I finish touching up the paint on the front.

The new paint has to harden a bit before I can start re-fitting the weather seals to both the lid-trailer join and the tent base board-trailer lid join.

Will possibly post some photos later today.

I FINALLY feel that I am getting there with this. What a flaming marathon!

Kevin · Oct 24, 2014

Ratbag said:
What a flaming marathon!

"Flaming Marathon" - a great name for a trailer! :ebiggrin:

Ratbag · Oct 24, 2014

^ :lol:

Have got a few things done so far today.

Took the "wings" off the lower edges of the rear gate ends so that it swings down further. It's easy to remove and refit if needs be, but this shouldn't be necessary.

Got some top coat on the most of the bald patches. Plenty of runs and stuff. I don't care if it looks pretty, just trying to keep the metal moths at bay! Besides, leopards are pretty ... :poke:

:biggrin: :rotfl:.

Re-fitted the spare wheel.

Got to do some shopping and have a blood test and then coffee with a friend later, so I had better get my skates on!

A New Trailer for the Ratbag ...

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