Install Sunyee Cree 126W light bar - SG II Forester

Sorry, no photos today. Too many other things happening, including yet another blood test, which I just love having - I'm on weekly reviews ATM.
 
And to you, PS.

I'm well over 300 blood tests since my open heart surgery about 12 years ago. I'm still alive! Some days more so than others .... :poke: :iconwink: :biggrin:.
 
Well, I really don't feel anything the mornings I wake up dead ... :rotfl:.
 
Completed wiring and post references

Previous photographs about my installation are here:

My wiring diagram:

https://offroadsubarus.com/showpost.php?p=86924&postcount=87

The rat's nest wiring:

https://offroadsubarus.com/showpost.php?p=86947&postcount=94

The relays mounted and wired with colour coded wire etc:

https://offroadsubarus.com/showpost.php?p=86957&postcount=99

New photos.

Using Holden owner's screwdriver to open internal cabin lining for wires after removing the grommet between the brake and clutch master cylinders:

E-510_JAK_2015-_6298322_Ew.jpg


UHF aerial fed through the grommet:

E-510_JAK_2015-_6298323_Ew.jpg


Back of cabin driving light and fog light switches showing the jumper wires from the driving light switch to the terminals on the fog light switch to connect the DL switch to the instrument panel light circuit (fog light switch on the right):

E-510_JAK_2015-_6298324_Ew.jpg


Feeding the DL switch wires through the grommet, using needle nose pliers to expand the hole sufficiently:

E-510_JAK_2015-_6298327_Ew.jpg


Back of cabin switch showing armouring from the switch to the firewall:

E-510_JAK_2015-_6298328_Ew.jpg


All wires fed both ways through the grommet:

E-510_JAK_2015-_6298329_Ew.jpg


E-510_JAK_2015-_6298330_Ew.jpg


Opening the firewall loom clip:

E-510_JAK_2015-_6298331_Ew.jpg


Armoured switch wires terminated and sealed with insulation tape at tunnel connector near relays:

E-510_JAK_2015-_6298332_Ew.jpg


Armoured cables tied to other parts of the normal wiring loom to keep them out of harm's way:

E-510_JAK_2015-_6298333_Ew.jpg


Armoured switch wires fixed using existing firewall wiring loom body clips:

E-510_JAK_2015-_6298334_Ew.jpg


Cabin switch panel to the right of the steering column, all powered up :biggrin: :

E-510_JAK_2015-_7028341_Ew.jpg


Photos of light bar in action to follow ... :poke: :lildevil:
 
Photos of light bar in action

:woohoo:

Roo bar, light bar and UHF aerial fitted. Bull bar masked up:

E-510_JAK_2015-_6298340_Ew.jpg


The street at ISO 12,800, f/2.8 at 1/8th second ... The end of the street is around 225-250 metres away.

E-M1_JAK_2015-_6300907_Ew.jpg


The lights - all at ISO 12,800, f/4.5 at 1/30th second.

Low beam:

E-M1_JAK_2015-_7010912_Ew.jpg


High beam:

E-M1_JAK_2015-_7010913_Ew.jpg


High beam + Light bar:

E-M1_JAK_2015-_7010914_Ew.jpg


The light bar could possibly be aimed up a few degrees. Need to test it on a 'real' road ...
 
looks good , very bright close range. I wouldn't aim it too far up or you might blind yourself with the reflection off street signs
 
Nice! Looking forward to see the same from my car soon :bcool:
 
Gidday All

looks good , very bright close range. I wouldn't aim it too far up or you might blind yourself with the reflection off street signs

Thanks, Lefty. It already does that, mate! Open road only, methinks ... ;).

Excellent RB, well done! I suspect that will be a lot brighter than the pic suggests... :monkeydance:

Thanks, NL. Yeah, it is. The human eye has far greater dynamic range than a camera sensor ...

Nice! Looking forward to see the same from my car soon :bcool:

Thanks, PS. All the best with it, mate.

I think I have worked out how I could have made the relay that came with mine work, but it would involve butchering its existing wiring (and it still might not work ... ). For our cars, the dual cascading relays seems the simplest solution, and it does work.

The fact that I now have an OEM driving light switch that works with the instrument panel lights and is lit when the high beam + light bar are on is both aesthetically and practically pleasing as well. If it is any benefit, I can post the colour coding for the OEM switch, and how it's connected to the dash lights (2 wires) and relay (3 wires).
 
I think I have worked out how I could have made the relay that came with mine work, but it would involve butchering its existing wiring (and it still might not work ... ). For our cars, the dual cascading relays seems the simplest solution, and it does work.

Yes, I have a look into my Outback and it has got fuses for high beam and low beam for both and right which I think will make the same job much easier :twisted:

The fact that I now have an OEM driving light switch that works with the instrument panel lights and is lit when the high beam + light bar are on is both aesthetically and practically pleasing as well. If it is any benefit, I can post the colour coding for the OEM switch, and how it's connected to the dash lights (2 wires) and relay (3 wires).
Sure Ratbag :ebiggrin: if you have the time and energy :raz:
 
^ Gidday PS

Will try to do that in the next day or so, mate. I also need to draw up the correct wiring diagram for the dual cascading relay system I ended up using, including how it's connected to the OEM cabin switch I bought.

Here is the colour coding connection to the cabin switch:

E-510_JAK_2015-_6288316_Ew.jpg


The connection at the relay end (the red wire connects to the vampire connector on the high beam positive via the brown wire; blue wire connected to secondary relay on left connects to the high beam negative {black} wire; yellow is siamesed to blue at the relay; white is jumpered to both relays - it is the "active" switch wire):

E-510_JAK_2015-_6288315_Ew.jpg


The DL switch is on the left, fog light switch on the right. Connection to fog light switch for dash lighting circuit (DL purple to fog light top purple {there are two purple wires on the fog light switch} and DL black to bottom right hand black). The blue wire on the OEM cabin switch is inert, and not used :

E-510_JAK_2015-_6298324_Ew.jpg
 
Went for a drive to see if the matte black paint makes any difference to the reflection from the bull bar of the parking lights (!) and low beam lights. Cuts the problem by 1/3 to 1/2, I reckon. Bearable.

Also re-adjusted the light bar after testing it around home - not much traffic on a Sunday night at dinner time ... Have to be very careful using anything as bright as this!!

I expect the light bar to be exceptionally effective on the open road.
 
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