SHES BACK!

Kevin said:
isn't it the same as in the pic you posted?
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Not from what I can see. At a guess, his guage is reading between 96-99C it's almost at the halfway mark

(I'm a bit obsessive about temperature at the moment if you hadn't noticed..!)
 
@Ser_Egg - that gauge is a little on the high side of normal.

We have two EJ251s in the family.

One in my sister’s 2000 RX Liberty manual, 450,000km and going strong. No cooling issues. Lives in the Murray area so sees plenty of high temp work, will cruise all day in town or on the open road with the AC fully cranked.

The other is in my mother inlaw’s SG auto. 350,000km and it too goes well. No cooling issues either. Don’t know about summer yet as it was registered in April this year.

On thing that does come to mind is whether one or both Thermo fans are not operating correctly - either not operating at all or the high speed function isn’t working. Or there’s an issue with air flow - loose cowling, blockage from air movement through radiator or AC condenser. Very true if you mud-puddle your car when off-road.

Cheers

Bennie
 
Not much difference. @Ser_Egg have you tried plugging the green plugs under the dash together to check if the fans are cycling though their different speeds?
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So i swapped out the sensor and thermostat, radiator didnt fit so wasted of $230 there but whatever. Get a mishimoto one for sure. I reckon the culprit was a failing thermostat. You can see the difference in springs and the gap on the top of the piece. See what happens but im fairly certain this was the problem. Wish i could swap out the water pump for the newer version of it as well117755817_1014035262371073_2120919138398229339_n.jpg
 
Ser_Egg said:
Wish i could swap out the water pump for the newer version of it as well
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What’s the newer version? AFAIK the water pump hasn’t changed since the first EJ in ‘89!

Genuine has a cast impeller, aftermarket has a pressed steel impeller.

Cheers

Bennie
 
Ben Up North said:
How hard was it to get to?
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A bloody mission, wiring and vacuum hoses in the way, minimal hand space, but can be done

El_Freddo said:
What’s the newer version? AFAIK the water pump hasn’t changed since the first EJ in ‘89!

Genuine has a cast impeller, aftermarket has a pressed steel impeller.

Cheers

Bennie
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The thermostat position different, instead being vertical down the bottom it rests on the side horiztontally
 
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Ser_Egg said:
The thermostat position different, instead being vertical down the bottom it rests on the side horiztontally
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Like the original turbo water pump, just without the oil cooler line and turbo coolant line. That also started in ‘89 in the original RS that set the EJ turbo layout. They didn’t have the oil cooler on the early engines though. The series two had the oil cooler, so three coolant lines circulating back to the water pump compared to only the heater circuit of the NA (and oil cooler in some USDM - it’s used more as an oil warmer in those markets due to their extremely cold climate, NA engine for reference).

So they might be using a modified turbo water pump for better packaging or to drop a line up of different parts to keep production costs down.

Cheers

Bennie
 
Ser_Egg said:
one bloke claimed he just changed the sensor and it solved his issues
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That was me, and it was in my old 07 X, Had recently done the heads, and new timing system/water pump/coolant, so was unlikely to be that. Car had 300,000km on it at this stage, so changed the sensor, and the issues went away.

Ser_Egg said:
Get a mishimoto one for sure
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Would not recommend a Mishimoto one, especially for offroad use, I've had nothing but issues with mine, and so have a number of other people with offroad spec foresters
 
@SquiresSquire
Really? what sort of issues? I've been thinking of getting a Mishimoto.
 
Ben Up North said:
Really? what sort of issues? I've been thinking of getting a Mishimoto.
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It starts with the welds, Nothing lined up, I know another 2 people with Late SG foresters, and between them have had 6 Radiators from Mishimoto, after 3 warranty replacements.

After two weeks, the brand new supplied transmission hose split on the highway.

Also for offroad use, they are not ideal in slow moving situations, as they are double row radiators, they need good airflow for cooling. You would be much better off with a single row alloy radiator like a Golpher
 
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SquiresSquire said:
Also for offroad use, they are not ideal in slow moving situations, as they are double row radiators, they need good airflow for cooling.
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As you would for ANY radiator. The dual core radiators allow more surface area to aid cooling the coolant temps. So in reality it should be better than a single core radiator.

The best thing for slow high load work is fans. You might not have enough air pressure across the front of the vehicle and under it to create the needed low pressure system behind the radiator to draw air through it.

Install a switch to trigger the fans when you need them to - even one would be better than relying on natural airflow and the ECU to trigger fans at the set temperature.

My L has a copper dual core radiator and it’s the best radiator setup I’ve had in it so far. With fan blades orientated and spinning in the correct direction I’m a happy fella in the sand.

Cheers

Bennie
 
Kevin said:
:DAs I too discovered!
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Yeah mine was more long winded - had a three core custom all copper/brass radiator with three aftermarket thermo fans fitted to it.

I had the fans rotating the correct way but didn’t realise that the blades had different orientation for pulling or pushing air. So I had my pulling fans with orientated for pushing.

The difference in air movement was HUGE. But by the time I worked it out I’d swapped radiators as the tri core wasn’t looking so good any more after 5-7 years of service. It was dunked many times in mud puddles in that time too. I don’t think that helped with corrosion.

Cheers

Bennie
 
ahh yess i keep forgetting to take a photo. Always on the way home im like take a photo take a photo, get home and forget, repeat the next day. Anyway So this past week drove abit further for work at a more constant speed for 100KM/H. The needle sits where it should a couple mm above the first line and doesnt move, well atleast not at the distance you sit at when you drive. Happy days for a SG and looking forward to finishing her kit out in preparation for travelling
 
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