SHES BACK!

Ben Up North said:
Also... I think (from what I've been reading) ours may have 2, one for ECU and one for guage.
Click to expand...
As best I can tell just one for coolant:
Air intake temp sensor
Coolant temp sensor
ATF temp sensor

And as Bennie said
El_Freddo said:
more to the point the gauge signal is given with/from the ECU’s signal.
Click to expand...
 
Well turns out i got a full alloy radiator just lying around to put in so thags go in too. Also update on the description of the spike.

On the way to work this morning, had the heater on full and the needle was at recommended position until 5 mins around the corner from work it moved up slightly and sat there. Had the heater on full all the way home from work. Didnt move from the position its meant to be at. Then i hit a hill and it goes up to just about half and just sits there for the duration of the drive which was like 10-15mins . I fill up in town and i turn the car on and the needle shoots to the second line, below Hot and then slowly makes its way down and sits at half again until i get home.
 
Got a pic of this gauge @Ser_Egg? I’d like to see what you’re referring to with first and second lines etc.

Cheers

Bennie
 
I had a similar issue years ago with the Forester. Replaced the radiator and all was fine, guage sits on about a quarter instead of fluctuating.
 
@Ben Up North - temp sensor is on top of the engine in the coolant crossover pipe that is also the hot side rad pipe.

Thermostat is on the rad cold side on the under side of the engine.

The water pump cycles water through the engine, out to the heater core then across the hot side of the thermostat, then back through the water pump to do it all again. It’s a very efficient way to heat the coolant. When that circuit heats up enough, the thermostat begins to open and some cold coolant enters the circuit and some hot coolant returns to the radiator.

Once the thermostat starts to open I reckon it’s a very gradual process - no harsh opening speeds etc. same for closing.

If you’re not running a genuine thermostat, get one! Aftermarket units doesn’t seem to work very well in the Subaru’s.

Cheers

Bennie
 
El_Freddo said:
temp sensor is on top of the engine in the coolant crossover pipe that is also the hot side rad pipe
Click to expand...
Found a youtube video that might be accurate.. involved removing the alternator to get to it. - would that be right? Certainly looked like the EJ251
The water pump cycles water through the engine, out to the heater core then across the hot side of the thermostat, then back through the water pump to do it all again. It’s a very efficient way to heat the coolant. When that circuit heats up enough, the thermostat begins to open and some cold coolant enters the circuit and some hot coolant returns to the radiator.
Click to expand...
Had that one figured, but always good to be confirmed. Given the positioning of thermostat & sensor, the thermostat is probably starting to open at a lower temperature than the coolant sensor is reading.
Once the thermostat starts to open I reckon it’s a very gradual process - no harsh opening speeds etc. same for closing.
If you’re not running a genuine thermostat
Click to expand...
it's absolutely OEM. So was the previous, which wasn't that old. There is a noticeable drop in temperature at about 88-89 degrees when the engine is 'warming up' - e.g first 5-10kms after starting.
The fans starting at 92-93 degrees on average also produces a smaller drop - or more to the point holds at that temperature for a while. ditto at around 97-98 when the fans go to higher speed.
I've just found on SubaruOutback.org this image:
rad-fan-response-jpg.317282

Dunno if it does anything but make me feel good because it matches my readings almost :D
Not that it says anything about the thermostat ..
The temperature its running at seems pretty high too!
 
Ben Up North said:
Found a youtube video that might be accurate.. involved removing the alternator to get to it. - would that be right? Certainly looked like the EJ251
Click to expand...

The 251s have theirs behind the power steerimg pump under the intake manifold. No need to disassemble anything. Move some wiring and a hose or two, put a 19mm deep socket on it and replace
 
I'd be happy with that.
 
Im not happy with it since it sat lower than that when i got it and also ot goea higher than that
 
Ser_Egg said:
and also ot goea higher than that
Click to expand...
That's the point to be worried about, for sure.

It's interesting that we seem to have very similar problems, and have the same model.. Hopefully it's the same solution and we get them sorted.
Unfortunately it's taken several mechanics without a solution for me.
Fortunately for you, by the sounds of things, you live in a climate where the heater is used.
I haven't been able to use the airconditioner which is not nice. On the plus side, running the heater doesn't make a huge amount of difference to my comfort with the windows down. It does make a huge difference to the engine's comfort - or at least the sensor's!)
 
Ir used to only happen on hills and one bloke claimed he just changed the sensor and it solved his issues. Im just gonna chnage out the rad, senaor and thermostat
 
Nope. Mines literally in the middle and then climbs a little and then stays at the same position whilst driving. Wheb i stop moving it cools down
 
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