SHES BACK!

Ser_Egg

Ser_Egg

Forum Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2019
Messages
286
Location
Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
Car Year
2005
Car Model
Subaru Forester SG series 1
Transmission
5Spd Manual
After a week and a half my girls back with new timing belt and kit and new headgaskets and kit.

here is the invoice i have. What do you guys reckon, i reckon its a fair price for the jobs that were done, not sure on that 10w-30 oil and Ryco oil filter though haha

117034280_753767135398768_2591168589539857496_n.jpg116550110_243171319998632_4650364357184475942_n.jpg116550110_243171319998632_4650364357184475942_n.jpg
 
The lower figure is how thin the oil is at low temperatures. The high number is how thick it is at high temperatures.

I run Shell Helix Ultra fully synthetic 5W-40 in both ours.

10W-30 should be OK in an engine with as many kms on it as yours, as long as it's fully synthetic, which I'm pretty sure that Penrite would be. Japanese engines generally need the best quality oil you can give them.
 
Well i just noticed the temp gauge spiking to half way yesterday again so gonna chnage the sensor and see what happens

By the way the engine bay is cool and thr motor doesnt seem to be exterting any above normal temps as far as i can fill,
 
You will find that the sensor would do other weird things to the running of the engine as the sensor is the one for the ECU too, more to the point the gauge signal is given with/from the ECU’s signal.

Does your mechanic deal with Subaru’s often? These engines typically prefer OEM gaskets. But I doubt the temp spike is due to aftermarket gaskets so soon after replacement. It could be the system doing a final burp. Keep an eye on it to monitor for any additional spikes, see/contact your mechanic if this occurs again.

Cheers

Bennie
 
They must because i asked them about MLS headgaskets and they said thats what they install . If its not the sensor my next and originally feeling would be an aging or dirty thermostat. They had it for another 24hrs after the job was done just for it to burp as well and in the morning apparently there was bulge in the top radiator hose so they replaced that apparently. This minor spike has been happening before head gaskets as well. I did mention it to them but yeh nothing.
 
Ser_Egg said:
If its not the sensor
Click to expand...
The guy I'm taking mine to is highly doubtful it would be the sensor, I'm thinking of replacing it anyway though.

Ser_Egg said:
Well i just noticed the temp gauge spiking to half way yesterday again
Click to expand...
what exactly were you doing at the time? Under load again/Idling at lights/nothing special?
 
Ben Up North said:
The guy I'm taking mine to is highly doubtful it would be the sensor, I'm thinking of replacing it anyway though.


what exactly were you doing at the time? Under load again/Idling at lights/nothing special?
Click to expand...
So i left work and the first little flucutations were about 20mins after starting the car and driving it on the freeway. 30mins later im at Woolies for like 5 mins and then i drive 100ms down to the lights and the gauge is dead on half and then i stop at the lights, needle goes downn to normal. I get home and the thermofans are both working and doing there thing and the needle was just kicking it at its normal position still

Today i didnt notice much movement in the needle and it didnt spike though i had the heater on and i felt the air get warmer at one stage and then it was normal toaster heat again
 
Ser_Egg said:
and it didnt spike though i had the heater on
Click to expand...
I've found the heater is marvelous at keeping the temperature down on mine, so I'd be surprised if it spiked while you had it on!
I haven't run the airconditioning much in mine for months, as that is guaranteed to get mine warm (up to the second notch - or 103deg on torque pro)
 
Ben Up North said:
I've found the heater is marvelous at keeping the temperature down on mine, so I'd be surprised if it spiked while you had it on!
I haven't run the airconditioning much in mine for months, as that is guaranteed to get mine warm (up to the second notch - or 103deg on torque pro)
Click to expand...
ahh right the bluetooth OBD plug, I need one of them
 
Ser_Egg said:
ahh right the bluetooth OBD plug, I need one of them
Click to expand...
👍 Don't get the wifi version if you're on Android. It works OK but is annoying to connect.
 
FWIW, the mechanic I'm talking to seemed to be of the opinion that the coolant sensor on the dash either works or craps out and doesn't do anything.
Also... I think (from what I've been reading) ours may have 2, one for ECU and one for guage.
My reading from the ECU pretty much mirrors what is showing on the guauge in up and down movement, I'm not sure whether we have 2 or not as a result, because the chances of both being faulty would be slim I reckon.
 
Last edited:
Kevin said:
Half way or just under is normal. So what is you definition of "normal"?
Click to expand...
Agreed, When my temperature goes up, it's heading towards and If I don't crank the heater past the second mark on the guage.
When the needle hits the upper mark on the guage, the scan tool shows coolant temp at 103-104 degrees.
It's about 98 degrees at around midway, at 101-102 it's still below the upper mark. and about 115 it's getting pretty close to red on the guauge (I stopped pretty quick when it did that, which was before I did the heads.
 
Ser_Egg said:
just above the first mark from cold
Click to expand...

That's where mine used to sit all the time :(, just a little bit of a gap between it and the first marker, less than a quarter of the space between first & second marks (ish)
From the OBD, that spot on the gauge covers from about 85ish to 95ish -without the needle moving noticeably at all, possibly even lower starting temperature..

Other things I've found:
My thermostat opens at about 89 degrees, you can see the temperature drop on Torque Pro when it does it. How long it takes between thermostat opening, the sensor reading and thus actual temperature it opens at is anyone's guess, I presume they're not right next to each other.. (diagrams show that, even if I haven't actually worked out where to look because, thank you internet, they are conflicting.
Fans kick in at low at about 92-93.
Fans kick in high at about 96-97.
^ I presume they're controlled by the ECU coolant sensor (? are there two in a MY05 Forester?)

It's funny, I've had this in my head for a while, never even contemplated that it might be useful information.
Is it?

(I've got some sort of weird disability when it comes to spelling gauge. My brain just doesn't cope with it and I always end up with a u or two in weird spots.)
 
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