What have you done to your car today?

Towed my car to the repairer 😖
Couldn't get into any gear overnight. Bled the clutch fluid without success this morning, took the slave cylinder out, inspected and cleaned and no problem including no sign of any leaking anywhere found, put the slave cylinder back, bled the fluid again and still no success. Rang the repairer, suspected of broken clutch release fork.
After a quick inspection, the fork was at an angle and the repairer was pretty sure it's the cause (potentially broken inside). Apparently (according to the repairer) the fork is notorious for SG NA forester. The repairer showed me the fork of a turbo version and it was like at least 10 times more solid that that of the natural aspirated one - and no, unfortunately the turbo one cannot be fitted into NA car. 😢
 
In an emergency you can do a bit of clutchless driving. Usually accompanied by a few crunching noises. Most I have driven that way is about 200 kms, (at night), before I ran out of battery because of stopping/restarting at traffic lights. A very tiring way of driving.
 
ateday said:
In an emergency you can do a bit of clutchless driving. Usually accompanied by a few crunching noises. Most I have driven that way is about 200 kms, (at night), before I ran out of battery because of stopping/restarting at traffic lights. A very tiring way of driving.
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How did you do that? Wish I knew it so I could drive to the repairer :sneaky:
 
PauSum said:
How did you do that? Wish I knew it so I could drive to the repairer :sneaky:
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PS, if you don't know how to do it - don't. There's a good chance you would do major damage to your gearbox.

It involves matching engine revs to gearbox input shaft revs without using a clutch to equalise them.
 
It does take practice! I used to do it in my Range Rover even with a good clutch. I would start it in gear and then listen (or watch the taco) for the time to change gears and then just slip the stick into the next gear. You need to initially accelerate to reach a point where there is no load on the drivetrain and then change gear. I can only assume it would be a similar method for Subies.
 
Yes it is not easy, and very tiring, as you really need to concentrate on what you are doing. Usually the gear change is smooth and no crunches but as Kevin says it takes a lot of practice and a good battery as you use a lot of battery because you need to start in gear and progress from there. I was able to go for about 200 kms as it was along the highway but I was constantly trying to anticipate how not to need to change gears. I tended to stay in 3rd and 4th to minimise changing.
Emergency need only. I was lucky as everything seemed to mesh well until I reached urban areas with traffic lights.
 
The issue could still be the throw out bearing that’s collapsed, allowing the clutch fork to rotate sideways and the clutch to not work. This is what happened on my sister’s Gen3 Liberty sometime last year.

Clutch forks can crack, even the turbo ones (with a decently upgraded clutch pressure plate!). The turbo clutch fork works differently - referred to as a pull clutch and it utilises a pivot built into the gearbox, as opposed to the push style NA clutch that pivots on a ball. From memory the turbo clutch fork slips into the throw out bearing and this clips into the pressure plate upon initial engagement after the engine is installed to the gearbox.

Is the swap worth it? Probably not since a new clutch fork is readily available and a fraction of the price of a gearbox conversion like that.

So what was the outcome of your clutch issue @PauSum?

Cheers

Bennie
 
Sounds like the potential problem caused will be greater! I'll stick with using my Auto Club benefit (towing service) :ROFLMAO:
 
Upgraded front brakes on the Triton (L200) to be the same type as the Foz i.e. DBA slotted rotors and TRW Lucas pads; more of a PIA to do it on the ute than the Forester.
 
Overhauled the front brake calipers of my Outback - replaced all the plastics of both front brake calipers. I feel much balanced and better stopping power now. One of the housings was broken before repairing.
 
List of ticks for Sunday - Changed over to my A/T wheels for upcoming road trip, Replaced rear brake pads, installed UHF radio, moved ECU from floor into glove box. Interestingly, first time I drove I had cruise light flashing, traction control light on, and engine check light on - minor panic! Second time and onwards, it's been fine?? Not sure what happened there???
 
Had a leak on the Koyo steering rack, just swapped it with the '96 Legacy I already borrowed the EJ22 ! Love playing Lego ! Will fix the leak on the Forester steering rack later.....if need to.
 
Not today but booked in for next week:

* 200,000k service on the green Forester
* replace the timing belt. ( I dare say that wil be a grand at least. Last time, on the red Forester, I think I paid $800. Prices have gone up and these guys in Huonville are not cheap. I'm OK with that, I think they are very gfood and I don't mind paying for quality work. Fnark it, it's only money.
* replace an air inlet valve that sticks. I forget its name, but it opens to let extra air in when you put your foot down and it has started sticking when the engine is cold. Once it does that, the engine management light comes on and the cruise control doesn't work. It sorts itself out if you turn it off and wait 20 minutes. Subaru charge $500 for the part!
 
@Tannin,
Is it the PCV ? I don't think so as its only about 20 AU$ but I can't find out what inlet valve could be so expensive....
 
@Tannin Have they been religious in putting UEC through it regularly?

If not, the airflow valve can cause that kind of problem. Can't remember the name of the part. MAFI? MAPI? Whatever. If it's dirty, you get exactly the sort of problem you have.
 
Hey Ratbag, does that UEC "go off" if it's too old?
I've got 3 unused cans that must be at least 10 yrs old, been kept in the dark (garage), not fed any bovine poop though. :lol1:
 
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