What have you done to your car today?

[Kevin]

It may actually be much more cost-effective and more efficient to have it done at a decent shop because of the mentioned issues

Thanks!

 

[ABFoz]

When I move to the South Island, I am thinking of buying a house on a decently-sized land, build a high-ceiling garage where we can house all our cars. It must have a hoist in it, a shop press, etc. I saw a shed/warehouse layout where it has a lounge in front. I want that too. It will have a shower and the whole building will be insulated. Dreams are free.

I can imagine during weekends that the lounge in it will be as cozy as the lounge at home. If it is in Alexandra, though, it must be properly heated/cooled because of the more extreme weather pattern. I can imagine, too that the garage will be full of Subarus!

 

[Kevin]

I would love to have a hoist!

 

[El_Freddo]

Have you seen those portable four post hoists @ABFoz?

I’d love to have one of those, and a rack on the back wall of the shed where you have regularly used vehicles/parts cars and on the rack above you have the lesser used/special occasion vehicles - using the movable four poster for loading and unloading the upper rack vehicles.

Or go all out and get a car stacker unit like they use in Japan

Or even better would be an underground complex - that’ll avoid any of those destructive bushfires that we tend to have!

In other news, I drove my Brum3y, looked at Ruby Scoo (she needs some work) and looked at the new to us Foz lined up in the driveway as the next one to be worked on (hopefully soon!!)

Cheers

Bennie

 

[Lockheed]

When I move to the South Island, I am thinking of buying a house on a decently-sized land, build a high-ceiling garage where we can house all our cars. It must have a hoist in it, a shop press, etc. I saw a shed/warehouse layout where it has a lounge in front. I want that too. It will have a shower and the whole building will be insulated. Dreams are free.

I can imagine during weekends that the lounge in it will be as cozy as the lounge at home. If it is in Alexandra, though, it must be properly heated/cooled because of the more extreme weather pattern. I can imagine, too that the garage will be full of Subarus!

Can I pop over to work on my car?

 

[ABFoz]

Have you seen those portable four post hoists @ABFoz?

I’d love to have one of those, and a rack on the back wall of the shed where you have regularly used vehicles/parts cars and on the rack above you have the lesser used/special occasion vehicles - using the movable four poster for loading and unloading the upper rack vehicles.

Or go all out and get a car stacker unit like they use in Japan

Or even better would be an underground complex - that’ll avoid any of those destructive bushfires that we tend to have!

In other news, I drove my Brum3y, looked at Ruby Scoo (she needs some work) and looked at the new to us Foz lines up I the driveway as the next one to be worked on (hopefully soon!!)

Cheers

Bennie

We have this portable one here for NZD 2,500.

I am not sure how stable these are. I am hoping that the feet have some sort of extension to improve stability. This model fits in any garage/flat carport, though.

The QuickJack seems more stable, but it does not have good enough height. It's OK for me. It costs about NZD 4,000 shipped.

This one has the weight on one side only and costs around NZD 5,000 here. It can go much higher than those mentioned above.

You have a new Foz?

Can I pop over to work on my car?

Sure, mate, anytime!

By the way, after watching some motor videos from the UK, I noticed that there are self-service garages there. That can be a game-changer here but since we have cheaper cars, most people would just sell their cars and upgrade to dodge maintenance costs. We have so many cheap Japanese imports and oftentimes, the prices of newer ones would make one think that it's better to just sell their cars and buy new ones. They won't save that way, though.

 

[scalman]

2'' lift . just strut spacers. custom made with camber offset
rear sway bar must be removed, from sway bar one side disconnected other side is still connected.

 

[El_Freddo]

@ABFoz





From here: http://herohoistsqld.com.au/lift-king-9-hoist/

This is the style hoist I’m talking about. That’d be awesome. Their double lift unit for a tall garage would be another great option too.

Cheers

Bennie

 

[El_Freddo]

@ABFoz

View attachment 3777

View attachment 3778

From here: http://herohoistsqld.com.au/lift-king-9-hoist/

This is the style hoist I’m talking about. That’d be awesome. Their double lift unit for a tall garage would be another great option too.

Cheers

Bennie

 

[ABFoz]

@ABFoz

View attachment 3777

View attachment 3778

From here: http://herohoistsqld.com.au/lift-king-9-hoist/

This is the style hoist I’m talking about. That’d be awesome. Their double lift unit for a tall garage would be another great option too.

Cheers

Bennie

That's pretty. I am more inclined to have this design because it looks much more secure than the others. Regarding the jacking beam, there isn't that much difference between the pneumatic vs manual one. I would go with the pneumatic one. The whole lot is decently priced, as well. Cheers.

 

[ABFoz]

Fixed P1516, producing P1307 and P1309 (AVCS) as chain reactions in the 2002 GG9 using the service manual diagnosis. The Idle-Air Control Solenoid (IACS) itself is already too clean but then there was some disconnection from the IACS connector to the ECU. We had to strip one of the concerned cables to test continuity to the connector. The cables were fine.

We were left with one place which is the B21 connector so we tested continuity to the IACS, they were all OK, then used a contact cleaner and reconnected it. The codes are now gone.

I installed T10 COB LEDs in the SG5, after receiving 12 pieces in the mail. I went with COBs for longevity and better-than-usual output vs SMDs.

New T10 COB vs old Narva T10

Incandescent T10 vs T10 COB LED vs Narva 10 LED

I have been running the incandescent and Narva T10 LED for quite some time now after the other T10 blew. I was told the mismatching was triggering OCD anxiety by passersby. The Narva T10 produced around 5000K in colour temperature but is not as bright as the standard incandescent.

The COB T10 produced a much brighter but bluer output.

Incandescent T10 vs COB T10

COB T10 installed on both park lights.

They may not be used as DRLs but as park lights, they are perfect because they only consume 1W.

 

[ratters]

Started transferring the first bits from my L Series touring wagon parts car to my good car, and knocked off a couple of easy ones. Map reading lights and the drivers foot rest both done. In both cases the mounting holes were there hiding behind the vinyl, just had to cut through and find them. Next will probably be the tacho dash cluster. Not looking forward to that!


0

 

[GreenSuby]

Fixed P1516, producing P1307 and P1309 (AVCS) as chain reactions in the 2002 GG9 using the service manual diagnosis. The Idle-Air Control Solenoid (IACS) itself is already too clean but then there was some disconnection from the IACS connector to the ECU. We had to strip one of the concerned cables to test continuity to the connector. The cables were fine.

We were left with one place which is the B21 connector so we tested continuity to the IACS, they were all OK, then used a contact cleaner and reconnected it. The codes are now gone.

I installed T10 COB LEDs in the SG5, after receiving 12 pieces in the mail. I went with COBs for longevity and better-than-usual output vs SMDs.

New T10 COB vs old Narva T10

Incandescent T10 vs T10 COB LED vs Narva 10 LED

I have been running the incandescent and Narva T10 LED for quite some time now after the other T10 blew. I was told the mismatching was triggering OCD anxiety by passersby. The Narva T10 produced around 5000K in colour temperature but is not as bright as the standard incandescent.

The COB T10 produced a much brighter but bluer output.

Incandescent T10 vs COB T10

COB T10 installed on both park lights.

They may not be used as DRLs but as park lights, they are perfect because they only consume 1W.

G'day abfoz
Where did you get the led's from? I've been trying to find reliable led globes for all over the car, but without luck.
Greensuby

 

[Kevin]

Fixed P1516, producing P1307 and P1309 (AVCS) as chain reactions in the 2002 GG9 using the service manual diagnosis.

Well done!

 

[El_Freddo]

Started transferring the first bits from my L Series touring wagon parts car to my good car, and knocked off a couple of easy ones. Map reading lights and the drivers foot rest both done. In both cases the mounting holes were there hiding behind the vinyl, just had to cut through and find them.
Next will probably be the tacho dash cluster. Not looking forward to that!

How good are the touring wagon map lights?! Are your switches a bit dicky in that they don’t always turn the light on? Mine are.

With the tacho instrument cluster, you could make up and adaptor kit, basically a patch loom between the touring wagon cluster and the DL loom. The plugs are different for the centre display panel and I’m 99% sure the round plugs are pinned differently.

Or do a full body reloom with that of the touring wagon’s loom. Worked for me, but I did it when I did the EJ conversion.

You’ll love looking at the touring wagon 4 gauge cluster over that of the stock DL L series three gauge cluster, I’ll guarantee that!

If you find an RX six gauge cluster that’d be a good score - and I don’t think any wiring mods are needed, just an oil pressure sender unit

Yesterday I found out why my front right hub setup on Ruby Scoo seems to be loose. I found the castlated nut “would out” as far as it could go before it couldn’t go any further due to the retainer pin - but to do that, the pin would need to be removed. I conversed with a mate of mine (Subarino) and his first comment was a threaded nut or drive shaft thread. Hopefully it’s the nut. Time will tell. Currently it’s too dangerous to drive at speed.

Cheers

Bennie

 

[ratters]

Map lights are sweet @El_Freddo although I'm thinking maybe LED bulbs might be the way to go. The lights actually turn on/off just fine so I guess maybe yours have had a hard life!

Currently the touring wagon dash is having a bit of a rewind.. My car has 277,000km on it and the touring wagon dash is around 388k. I did a quick calculation, at the current rewind speed its going to take 17 days to wipe off 100,000km! I'm being fairly conservative with the speed, don't want to blow the poor thing up before I get to use it. Wish there was a better way though!

 

[El_Freddo]

Map lights are sweet @El_Freddo although I'm thinking maybe LED bulbs might be the way to go. The lights actually turn on/off just fine so I guess maybe yours have had a hard life!

Currently the touring wagon dash is having a bit of a rewind.. My car has 277,000km on it and the touring wagon dash is around 388k. I did a quick calculation, at the current rewind speed its going to take 17 days to wipe off 100,000km! I'm being fairly conservative with the speed, don't want to blow the poor thing up before I get to use it. Wish there was a better way though!

There is! Pull the cluster apart, remove the gears and use an air gun to turn the drive gear. I added 100,000km in a minute or two to match my original odometre’s reading.

Put it back together, job done

Cheers

Bennie

 

[ratters]

Thanks for the tip @El_Freddo I started on that and then discovered that there is an even better way! Turns out there is a little circlip which holds the number wheels tightly together, and once you pop that off you can slide the wheels apart and disengage the gears and then just spin them around to whatever numbers you like. It's pretty fiddly getting that clip off and back on but I had the dash apart and then put back together in less than 10 minutes. Heck of a lot better than my original plan!

 

[ABFoz]

Not today but last weekend - Did an oil change on the SG5 using Castrol Edge 5W-30 and the JDM Subaru oil filter, as well as power steering drain-and-fill/flush and a full brake fluid flush using Penrite Super DOT 4.

I also fabricated/cut a USB shroud for the newly-discovered iDevice USB socket on my JDM head unit. The bottom clips are held using Araldite and the whole lot should be good to go anytime soon.

We found a 2nd-hand Philips head unit online at a really good price and installed it on the GG9. Being a hardcore Audiophile, this one sounds really, really, really proper. It has iOS playback on it, similar to the one in the SG5, and Android mirroring. We bought this as it is a much better display solution for the reverse camera instead of a cheap standalone monitor. It has navigation on it but, according to the map provider, the software installed is a pirated one so, today, I installed a legit Navigator 19 with OSM/OpenStreetMaps where the software and the maps are updateable. It is working well so now the 2002 GG9 is properly modernised.

GPS antenna

GPS antenna cable

The reverse camera will be installed anytime soon.

 

[Ben Up North]

Nice. Mapfactor rocks. I especially like being able to track where I've been via openmaps.
So this phillips is an android device? how did you install Mapfactor on it?
I've been looking at updating the stereo, but haven't been able to find anything that will do the job that I want (or not advertised as such)
current thinking is getting a bluetooth receiver and using an android phone/tablet.