What have you done to your car today?

I learned that my throttle cable on the Justy split today and started to fray right at the throttle body :( I finally found a replacement @ $28 shipped to my dealership (OEM) I am dead in the water until then...

-Jamie
 
Gidday Jamie

Cañon Carver said:
I learned that my throttle cable on the Justy split today and started to fray right at the throttle body :( I finally found a replacement @ $28 shipped to my dealership (OEM) I am dead in the water until then...

-Jamie
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If there is an adjustment at the accelerator pedal end, back it right off. Ditto the throttle idle nut on the carby body.

These things may just allow you to get sufficient cable length to allow you to clamp the cable on at the carby cable connection.

If that doesn't (or can't) work, you can shorten the outer cable sheath, which effectively lengthens the inner. Might make the throttle a bit jerky, but it will get you working again. You might have to do this at the pedal end to preserve some semblance of alignment at the carby end ...

You may need to cut the frayed cable end off to allow it to feed back through the hole in the clamping nut.

Hope this helps.
Sorry I can't be of more help.
I have never even seen a Justy ... :iconwink:
 
well i was able to get re-manufactured half-shafts (CV axles) for the front end today and actually got them installed before it started raining. and my silly ducks did not want to go in the hutch, after i finally got them in i was even able to take in my shot ones for the core not bad for a days work i guess :lol:
 
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Lol yes sir .thought it served the car rite having forester struts and shocks .lol and well the places drive it
 
HiddenSubaru said:
my soobi has no name, i cant find the letters in black, chrome and my car don't get along, i even painted my door handles and antenna cover.:lol:
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I'd like to paint mine a old flat army green.or just keep offloading and rub the rest of the paint I have off .:monkeydance:
 
Gidday HS

HiddenSubaru said:
my soobi has no name, i cant find the letters in black, chrome and my car don't get along, i even painted my door handles and antenna cover.:lol:
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You could try using the epoxy based paint that trailer makers use. It is pretty damn tough. They use it straight on bare metal, with no primer. Sticks like baby poo to a nappy. Jimi reckons that it lasts about 3 years used this way! I'm sure it would last a lot longer with even ropey base coat preparation.

Only comes in a small number of colours though ...

Available in spray cans from any decent paint store.
 
G'day again HS

HiddenSubaru said:
well i was able to get re-manufactured half-shafts (CV axles) for the front end today and actually got them installed before it started raining. and my silly ducks did not want to go in the hutch, after i finally got them in i was even able to take in my shot ones for the core not bad for a days work i guess :lol:
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Well done. On both counts. Why would a duck want to go into a nice warm, dry hutch when it's raining? Where do you think the expression "Took to it like a duck to water" came from ... ? :iconwink: :rotfl:

We have used re-conditioned drive shafts in both the Impreza and the dreaded Camry. They work well; and a darn sight cheaper than trying to fix buggered ones.

They are also better than a "repaired" one, in that the re-conditioning is done in a factory, and usually involves re-facing the races, fitting over-size balls and a new cage; proper greasing then re-booting with new boots.

Last one for the Camry cost about Oz$225~250, fitted.
Ross (our mechanic) reckons he cannot repair one joint for that price ... AND he is assuming that the joint is OK, just the stripping, cleaning, greasing and re-booting (including remove/refit) costs him more than that in time.
 
HiddenSubaru said:
my soobi has no name, i cant find the letters in black, chrome and my car don't get along, i even painted my door handles and antenna cover.:lol:
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I have a set of blacked out S U B A R U letters off of the back of my old OBS if you would like them :)

-Jamie
 
Ratbag said:
Gidday Jamie



If there is an adjustment at the accelerator pedal end, back it right off. Ditto the throttle idle nut on the carby body.

These things may just allow you to get sufficient cable length to allow you to clamp the cable on at the carby cable connection.

If that doesn't (or can't) work, you can shorten the outer cable sheath, which effectively lengthens the inner. Might make the throttle a bit jerky, but it will get you working again. You might have to do this at the pedal end to preserve some semblance of alignment at the carby end ...

You may need to cut the frayed cable end off to allow it to feed back through the hole in the clamping nut.

Hope this helps.
Sorry I can't be of more help.
I have never even seen a Justy ... :iconwink:
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I appreciate the efforts in help, but I feel that it won't work at all now that I removed the old cable already :p I am just going to have to drive my '04 Cummins now :monkeydance:

-Jamie
 
Cañon Carver said:
I appreciate the efforts in help, but I feel that it won't work at all now that I removed the old cable already :p I am just going to have to drive my '04 Cummins now :monkeydance:

-Jamie
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That's OK. You needed to remove the entire cable assembly to make the mods I have suggested.

You need to cut the frayed end on the cable very cleanly in order to be able to thread it back through the outer sheath when re-installing it.

I used this method about a dozen times in my youth ... Bloody long time ago ... :iconwink: :rotfl:
 
Rally said:
The WRX is the second car I have owned after the Falcon GT. I had the Falcon for 16 years, the WRX for 13 and it is ready for it's 80,000km service. It is always garaged. Still, it is now on it's 5th set of tyres.
1) OE Bridgestone Potenzas RE010?
2) Yokohama A539's (I think)
3) Falken Azenis
4) Bridgestone Potenza RE050A
5) Bridgestone Potenza RE002

Plus a set of track tyres i recently purchased to save the Potenzas from an early death
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Really, wow you had a Falcon for 16 years!? :huh: What year was it? Got any pics? Many km on it in the end?

Only 80,000km! Far out. I've done almost 70,000km in 2 years in my Forester! I'm on my 3rd set of tyres and almost ready for the 4th set.


ericstell said:
Nothing fancy like you fellas , I just renamed my Subi lol....https://offroadsubarus.com/album.php?albumid=102&pictureid=740
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:lol: Good one mate!
 
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1972 XA GT Falcon. I don't know how many k's it had done. When i got it the speedo did not work because the idiot who had the car before me had no idea of how to do a proper conversion. I did 5 trips across Australia in it, and the poor old thing had had a VERY hard life.
 
Gidday Rally

Rally said:
The WRX is the second car I have owned after the Falcon GT. I had the Falcon for 16 years, the WRX for 13 and it is ready for it's 80,000km service. It is always garaged. Still, it is now on it's 5th set of tyres.
1) OE Bridgestone Potenzas RE010?
2) Yokohama A539's (I think)
3) Falken Azenis
4) Bridgestone Potenza RE050A
5) Bridgestone Potenza RE002

Plus a set of track tyres i recently purchased to save the Potenzas from an early death
Click to expand...

Mate, that's UGLY!!

Here I am complaining about "only" getting 50~60,000 Kms out of a set ...

I got 105,000 Kms out of the first set of Michelin X on #1 Colt ...
And boy, did I give that car a hammering between Adelaide and Melbourne ...
Courting at the time ... :iconwink: :lol: :ebiggrin: :lildevil:

I used to drive over (fly over?) every second/third w/e for about 18 months! Shortest trip time was 5h 55m from North Terrace to Sunshine ... about 720 Kms at the time ... Started at 0200H.

Then towed my 7x4 trailer over (full) and back (empty) behind it 7 times moving all my stuff over here.

First set of tyres on Roo1 did around 90,000+ Kms (Michelin X).
 
Thinking back I may have got rid of the Yokohamas because they were so painfully noisy before they had worn out. And they may have been A520's, not A539's for what it is worth. Anyway, I am very hard on tyres, but not brakes. At least not in terms of wearing them out. Finding a decent set of pads has proven most difficult. The original set were ok, expensive and could be made to fade with heavy use. The second set were most effective, never faded but even with moderate braking created a harsh vibration. With heavy braking it was unbelievably bad- like going over the worst corrugations. The set I have now have a horrible wooden feeling and do not inspire confidence. When cold they are scarily ineffective but seem to hold up. But with such a horrible feel to them you are never at all confident in them. You never wait for pads to wear all the way out as they do deteriorate as they wear down and you loose effectiveness. With rotors, the originals were ok but wore quickly. I then got a very cheap set of DBA slotted rotors which wore reasonably quickly, if not quite as bad as the OE ones. I now have a set of Brembo slotted rotors which work a treat- but the bad news is that these rotors are no longer available. One solution is a brake upgrade where for $1500 I get a new set of 330mm rotors to replace the 298mm set of rotors and new pads. It also includes a new set of 8 piston callipers.
 
Well, I look at it as buying 4 sets of tyres over 13 years and having an awful lot of fun wearing them out
 
My current Yokahama Geolander AT-S tyres will only last about ~45,000km. I've had them just over a year and I think I should get another 10k out of them. Can't complain with that but I will be going with BFG's next which should give me ~70,000km. It's $300 a tyre though for the BFG's but if I do get that kind of mileage it should be worth the cost.
 
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