Almost's '10 NA Offroader

Here is the remade thread!
Since I haven't gotten a build thread on here yet, just going to post some stuff over from subaruforester.org.

It is a model 2010 Forester XS, with pure N/A powah.

Planned mods:

Bars and Racks
Sump guard and Rear skid plate.
Side Steps/Rocksliders
UEL Headers(if I can find some...)
New axle back exhaust(new muffler or straight through)
New rims and A/T tires
Lights and Radio gear
King springs with the Primitive gear(spacers, PRSS etc)

More to come

This is as it stood when I got it, clean, with no mods! :tissue:
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And now the bullbar is on!
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Struts are KYB Excel-G's. Basically uprated OEM replacements. For springs, I will get you their part number when the car doesn't have mud underneath it :P. Talk to primitive racing and they can give you all the info you need.

Tires are 215/70r16.
 
And this is why we carry jerry's of fuel :) Proper Pics and videos coming of the next trip. Lets say we properly sunk an amarok(vw ute).
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This is my dad going through the side of the mud pit. The amarok decided to go through the middle. It got about a metre in. Pics of that coming soon.
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Stock-ish, it's bone stock at the moment! No snorkel on at the moment, yeah went interesting!
Luckily the ebay obd2 reader saved the day.

First river crossing went good. But on the second run I had to thrash it and I came out with a CEL. Misfires on cylinder 1 and 4 and MAF sensor over reading. Luckily my code reader saved the day and I cleared them. After seeking advice from my mechanic, who just happened to be camped there too. Small world.
When I got back I blasted every electrical connection visible and the MAF sensor plug with WD40, and we were good to go for the 500 odd km back to sydney.
 
Interesting - better?

Or interesting - worse?

How's the torque curve now with the stock intake?

Better, I hope.
 
Definitely better. Turned traction control off too and it made a world of difference offroad.
Torque curve is still not the best down low. Basically gave up cruising in 5th gear since I was having to downshift for every hill.
Will get it tuned in February and hopefully solve all this.

Can't wait to get my new discs and pads on, definitely noticing a bit of brake fade from the long descents. Considering braided lines and some good fluid too.
 
ALMOSTunseen said:
Definitely better. Turned traction control off too and it made a world of difference offroad.
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That's to the good ... :).

Torque curve is still not the best down low. Basically gave up cruising in 5th gear since I was having to downshift for every hill.
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Is that on the tarmac?
Both Roo2 and RR lope along in 5th/HR on the open road, (almost) regardless of the steepness of the hills.

Will get it tuned in February and hopefully solve all this.
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Hope that works for you.

Can't wait to get my new discs and pads on, definitely noticing a bit of brake fade from the long descents. Considering braided lines and some good fluid too.
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Ditto ... :iconwink: :ebiggrin:.
 
Yeah I don't know what the issue is. In 5th at around 95km/h-100km/h in 5th it cruises around 2000-2500rpm. Below 3000rpm I have almost no acceleration, on some steep hills it just slows and slows until I'm forced to downshift.
Reading around this seems to be a common complaint in the N/A's. Maybe i'm just expecting too much since I'm used to diesels and high performance petrols...
But definately going to take it into the shop before the tune and see what they think. This just doesn't seem right. Probably a shot O2 sensor or something of the sort. A full 'tune up' including sparkplugs, diff oil, tran oil etc was just performed a few months back.
 
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ALMOSTunseen said:
Yeah I don't know what the issue is. In 5th at around 95km/h-100km/h in 5th it cruises around 2000-2500rpm. Below 3000rpm I have almost no acceleration, on some steep hills it just slows and slows until I'm forced to downshift.
Reading around this seems to be a common complaint in the N/A's. Maybe i'm just expecting too much since I'm used to diesels and high performance petrols...
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I'm not sure that's the case.

On the Gembrook/Launching Place Road, there is a spot where the road dives down to a creek flat that's about a kilometre or bit less long - somewhere between half and one kilometre. It hit the bottom of the hill in 5th/HR at exactly 100 Kmh. Flattened it without changing down (Roo2), and hit the uphill part at around 165 Kmh ... It seemed to me to get there rather quickly for an absolutely stock car. That was a bit before its (early) 125K Km service, so running very old plugs, and old air and fuel filters.

Roo2 has always impressed me with its easy, tractable performance at all speeds and under all conditions. Of course, your expectations might be different, but it seems from your descriptions that we could be talking about two completely different cars, and that's the worry as I see it.

Hope you get it sorted. It's a right proper PITA when something doesn't work properly!
 
Yeah true on that, really not happy. Hopefully this all gets sorted out and I can finally conquer Mt. Pinnibar.
 
That flat bit I mentioned is around 500 m long. Just to the South of the intersection of Old Beenak Rd with the Gembrook/Launching Place Road. Just looked it up on Google Maps.

Pretty good acceleration from 100 to 165 kmh in this distance for a N/A engine in 5th/HR IMO. Nothing startling, but none too foul either. Approx 13.6 seconds.
 
You do need more momentum in a Subie but now you have your low rpm problems sorted you should be right. I find its important to be able to read the track well ahead so you can pick up speed for the low grip sections.

So what happened in the river crossing? Did you get5 water inside? You need to be very careful as I think your ECU is under the floor! :eek:

If you like river crossings, might be an idea to move it up behind the dash...
 
NachaLuva said:
Y
You need to be very careful as I think your ECU is under the floor! :eek:
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It's under the passenger's feet.

If you like river crossings, might be an idea to move it up behind the dash...
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True. But remember that the floor pan of an SH is about an inch higher than that of an SF or SG.
 
Our theory for what happened in the river crossing in the spark plug wires got wet, causing the misfire and pulling the CEL. After clearing it drives fine.
When I get time the whole interior is coming out as the carpet got a bit wet. I will be sealing up any holes and laying the floor with dynamat,dynaliner, and then dynamat. To try and get rid of the road noise and insulate the car better.

While I'm at it I will relocate the ecu into the glovebox.

Low rpms issue is either o2 sensor or maf sensor so I will get some maf sensor cleaner and give the maf a clean then do some data logging.
Then on goes the snorkel and it's ready to be fiddled with by throttlehappy.
 
Thought I'd post my river crossing. Lets say it ended in a CEL(misfires, presumably from wet spark wires etc, and a very damp air filter.)Cleared the codes and off I went.
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rqIW7IjzTHo"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rqIW7IjzTHo[/ame]
(Can you embed videos here?)

This was my 4th time doing the crossing, and definitely the worst, and I may have hit the entrance with a little too much speed :neutral:, long day had taken its toll. Few hours offroading and being in one of our vehicles that had the brakes fade going downhill causing us to nearly smack into the back of someone, thank god for handbrakes and satan for automatic gearboxes that you can't keep in low gear. Needless to say I'm sticking the the foz now(and after I get my new rotors, pads, and fluid, I should never have these issues)
River was higher, and faster than when I'd done it earlier, but I had to get home.
Very lucky and I'm not going to play it on, snorkel, diff breathers and waterproofing going on next week.
 
ALMOSTunseen said:
Very lucky and I'm not going to play it on, snorkel, diff breathers and waterproofing going on next week.
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Yeah, they will make crossings, even deep ones, much safer.

Bit tricky doing the front breather on a manual. I presume the SH will be similar to SF/SG. This is how I did mine:

https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/150x100q90/834/wlxxb.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/150x100q90/838/96xy2.jpg

Sorry about the size, ImageShack wants to hit me up for $50!! Guess I need to find a new image host site :(
 
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Thanks for The image, will be going to a plumbing store to get the fifittings need and maybe try and find an adapter that works well for my airbox.
Did you use the same barbs for front and rear? And did you do front dif and gearbox?
 
I find google plus works well, I used to use picassa but that has now merged into google plus. It automatically enhances you images for you, has plenty of space for the generic user(can purchase more very cheaply, also carries over for you gmail and google docs)
You can also adjust the size of images for it in the url by changing the "h" and "w" values.
 
The front and centre diffs are all contained within a manual gearbox. The gearbox oil filler is also the breather. I would suggest you also replace your GB oil as its very possible its been contaminated.

I'll have to do a writeup, but here it is.

Use a short length (6") of clear hose (about 25mm, to be a snug fit on the GB oil filler neck). Use a plastic joiner from Bunnings to join this to a longer piece (~1m) of thinner hose (~10mm) and a fuel filter on the end.
Place over the GB oil filler neck and clamp into place. Form a loop with the small hose and cable tie into place at the top of the firewall.

The filter blocks dust from getting into the GB & the loop acts as a water trap in case you go really deep lol
 
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