Fitting the Oricom UHF300 Micro

thats the good thing about the sf, most things i modify i just grab a spare for a few bucks when im at the wreckers.

I did exactly that, with some inner tube rubber cut to sit behind the bracket. You'll get better reception if it can't flap around as well.
 
Gidday Simon

A fair question, mate, and one that should be given considerable thought.

However, the space behind the dash fascia where the row of switch blanks are is completely empty. there must be about a cubic foot of free space, and it is open to the driver's foot well at the bottom. At a pinch, and only if it became a problem, I could puncture the D/S ventilation tube and force air over the heat sink ...

I also think that Oricom have designed the unit to operate properly at these sort of temperatures. At least, one would hope so!

Another solution is to extend the aluminium bracket I am making, attach it to the heat sink on the rear of the unit with copper bolts and washers, then attach a PC power supply heat sink to that. I have dozens of these lying around ...
 
Gidday Id

I have just finished a very rough mock up of the bracket to attach using the P/S bonnet hinge bolts. Used an old bit of downpipe ...

I will upload some photos later.

It is basically a double "Z", and I will drill some small holes (3x 4 mm or so) into the vertical part of the hinge flange; tap a thread into them, and put reinforcing screws through the bracket into them. I have a blind tap for this size, and plenty of little bolts. Using a suitable thickness of alloy plate, plus having the bracket fixed to the bonnet hinge in two directions at right angles to each other should make it steady and strong.

I also intend to make up two right angle braces to strengthen and stabilise the antenna mounting platform. I will rivet these in place at front and rear. These should also protect the antenna cable.

Anyone doing this should be aware that you should not remove both the bonnet retaining bolts at the same time.
At all times, I had one bolt fully inserted, but just loose enough to manoeuvre the template into position when I loosened and removed the other bonnet hinge bolt.

The good news is that the aerial clears the passenger side door with both the stubby and the whip fitted.

The other good news is that the top of the stubby appears to be very slightly higher than the roof line, and the whip is considerably higher. Hard to tell in our driveway, as it has a fair slope on it.

I plan on having plastic side protectors everywhere the bonnet or guard might tend to rub ... You are only too right in saying that these things move around plenty, they can be subjected to fairly massive forces at times, as are all parts on a car.

Just heard that my trailer will be ready in around half an hour, so will toddle off and pick it up. Unfortunately, the OzTrail camper 6 tent I have ordered will probably not arrive in Mildura until Monday week. Ah well, I have plenty of jobs to fill in that time ... :iconwink:.
 
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RB,
I have been studying your photos. Most helpful. I have prised out the two blank switches and will investigate cutting the bracket. that is the tricky bit !
Cheers
 
^ Thanks, HC. Glad that they were of some benefit.

Probably be a lot more so when I get time to write up the process, but it is fairly self-evident from the photos.

As I mentioned in this thread and to you personally, the switch frame becomes progressively more flexible and fragile as you remove more and more material. It pays to be careful at this stage!

I take it that the login process worked OK?
For obvious reasons, I cannot really test it from this end!
 
Gidday HC

havachat said:
Login certainly worked !
Click to expand...

Thanks for that confirmation. Good to hear.

Given how little the radio weighs I really don't know if it is necessary to brace it.
Click to expand...

Mate, anything of this nature needs a lot more strength than one thinks to hold it securely!

I plan to brace this with a custom-made mount that not only attaches to the radio, but has 'wings' coming to the outside of what's left of the switch frame to both brace the switch frame, and better secure the radio.

Like the aerial mount I am making, I will take lots of photos, and will post precise measurements once done.
 
^ Good luck with that HC. Hope it goes well for you.

I have to start work on making the aerial mount; finish off the install of my unit; do the aerial and power wiring; find a spot to mount the handset.
 
I was thinking of mounting the mic on the A pillar or alternatively I have somewhere a mobile phone bracket that I took out of my Pajero which fitted between the instrument binnacle and the dash panel which might work.
 
Gidday HC

I have just been looking at mine, and am thinking about mounting a bracket between the dimpled dash covering and the panel below it to the left of the instrument nacelle.

Alternately, run a bracket down the side of the dash top compartment, and mount it to that. It looks to me as if there is about 1~2 mm clearance there between the top cover and the frame, if one avoids the vibration pad on the top part.

Either way would require some sort of reinforcing behind the dash panel IMO.

As I am pretty much ambidextrous, either of these positions would suit me. YMMV, of course.

Since I have in mind to prise out the top compartment and run a 12V socket into it, I should have the required access at that time. I just need to work out how to get the flaming panel/s out of that spot ...
Bloody modern cars that are held together with body clips and wishful thinking ... :iconwink: :lol:
 
I know what you mean. There is a lot to be said about the classic cars I used to restore. Everything was held together by screws! All it required was patience.
 
Gidday All

I have started to document what I have done, and how, and have posted the introductory photos starting here:

https://www.offroadsubarus.com/showpost.php?p=72908&postcount=2

Sorry to take so long to do this. Lots happening here, one way and another ...

I still haven't made a start on the bonnet bracket for the aerial ... :(.
 
Progress on fitting my UHF300.
Last weekend with the help of stevemy07 we fitted the bullbar antenna bracket and antenna. We then fed the cable together with a power cable though the fire wall into the cabin. What a bugger of a job that was.
Now all I need to do is cable tie the antenna cable in the engine bay and connect up the radio and jobs done. Hopefully the weather is fine tomorrow (unlikely) as I work in the open and finish the job :ebiggrin:
Photos to follow !
 
Gidday HC

Glad that yours is progressing well.

One question - Why the separate power cable?
The unit's power lead is fused at 2A, so not exactly a high drain item.
 
G'day RB,
I decided when I ran the antenna cable though the fire wall that I would also run a power cable from the battery with it as it was such a prick of a job. At a later stage I will probably find a power take off from the fuse box.
Anyway job is done so I can now sit back and "havachat" :rotfl:on the airwaves.

I will post detailed photos of my install later. The internet here at the moment is crap :( someone down the line in town must be downloading.

The radio works well and seems to have good volume. Here is a teaser!
 
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Fitting the Oricom UHF300

I will start this post by saying when I saw the radio on sale earlier in the year I told Ratbag and he bought one too. Originally I was going to fit it here between the centre console and the passenger seat



Ratbag came up with the better idea of installing it in the switch panel under the dash as seen in the above post from yesterday.
I removed the switch panel, then I cut the switch panel by hand with a coping saw. I then fitted the radio into the switch panel.



I then cut two brackets out of a aluminium corner used in plastering with tin snips and fitted to the radio and the switch panel.



I then installed the switch panel into the lower dash panel. In doing this I had to hand file the right hand edge of the panel for correct fit. Screwed everything into place and connected the antenna and power cables.



When refitting the lower dash panel I had to make a last minute adjustment due to the knob on the right hand side of the radio mount and cut some material out with my hand saw.



Fitted the lower dash panel.



Slipped my 80 cent angle bracket from Bunnings into the small gap in the dash fascia for mounting the mic.




Plugged in the mic



and turned it on



I will do a further post on fitting the antenna and running the power cable.
 
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