Using recovery gear

Gain in clearance has been extremely valuable, especially with all the water bars here, otherwise I would have been scraping my front bumper all the time.
Yeah there are a few setups that i've seen where people have installed a nudge bar and then cut away all the bump underneath.
And the subaxtreme outback bullbar looks pretty bulky, but works well:
outback-13-on-offroadbullbar.jpg

Shipping is no issue with subaxtreme as they have a freight warehouse in America so it is cheap.
Props to chris on the Subarus Offroad facebook page for this one, here is an overlay he did of the approach angle for an XV(crosstrek), very similar to the outback.
1466273_10203530556596845_8953134898536906798_n.jpg

And here is the forester
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i guess this makes the most sense
DSC_0141.JPG


i dont really know anything about recovery, since most people call it a "tow hook" i figured it worked well...
 
Wow, Almostunseen,

That is a great post, very helpful, thanks!
 
I think we need a thread for this :)
yeah if u need anymore info email subaxtreme, they are very helpful and knowledgeable.
I believe the US distributor for them is in Hutchinson, Minnesota and the name of the distributor is Ashwill Industries.
It is a very easy install for anyone that has installed a bullbar before, they even have youtube tutorials on how to fit them. Includes a template to cut the bumper, mounting bar for the bullbar, everything you need.

The reason I went for the subaxtreme is they are quality products, I drive past their place every few weeks so I got to see how they made them, pick it up, speak to the owner, great operation they run.
Also because I drive in rural areas a lot, so roadkill is a big issue, every vehicle we have has a bullbar so the subaru wasn't going to be an exception! The nudgebars just don't cut it as most of them offer zero to very little side protection. The subaxtreme nudge bars are very thick and will easily protect your radiator etc.
Also because of the ground clearance. I could have done the chop and fab method, but this leaves your CV's, axle, all of that very exposed. If a kangaroo gets in there, it's gonna cost me.

Here are some pics of DIY jobs where a nudgebar is used as a base, then most of the bumper is removed. All of these pics are from the "Subarus Offroad"(credit to the posters) facebook page, which I recommend you check out.
None of them are new outbacks but can give you an idea.
10926803_10205896616514977_8187560064505428494_o.jpg

10960451_10205896613474901_4503735863137521192_o.jpg

1549566_580666275401888_6686394661335041380_n.jpg

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Ha-ha, those are some pics!

I have no use for off-road looks. In fact, I want my car to look as any other. I just want the capability...

Hence the allure of height adjustable suspension and Subaxtreme front bumper replacement w/o the rest of the bull bar.
 
What do you want to break first?

All, you would want a recovery strap that was rated to break (BS) before the D-ring shackle and before the tow bolt and or tow bolt port broke? That way if BS was reached, you would only have a strap snapping around instead of a strap flinging the D-ring through the air. This makes sense, right? So why doesn’t Subaru rate the tow bolt or tow bot port’s WLL or BS?

I’ve bought a recovery strap with an 8165kg (18,000lbs or 9tons) BS, and am trying to find a D-ring bolt that will give me this strength (with a bit of safety margin), but am having difficulties. Most D-rings I can find state “weight rating” I assume this is a WLL…. Sound right? Seems 4.75tons (9500lbs or 4309kg) is a typical high rating for D-rings, which translates to an estimated BS of 8618kg (19000lbs). So I think I will return the strap and get a weaker one. Maybe with a BS of 15000lbs (6804kg). Thoughts?
 
Gidday Platzer, and welcome to the ORS forum.

Maximum BS for a Subaru snatch strap should be around 5,000 Kgs ... Otherwise you risk deforming your car.

The recovery bolt is part of the vehicle's structure, and can therefore be assumed to be safely designed for its purpose, and with rated BS and WLL accordingly.
 
Ratbag said:
The recovery bolt is part of the vehicle's structure, and can therefore be assumed to be safely designed for its purpose
Click to expand...

and this would worry me in a difficult recovery situation......I would guess that it's more a "tow" hook rather than a "recovery" hook; meant for a moderate tow or pulling a disabled car up on a flat bed I would assume? Does anyone know what load can be expected of a tow hook?
 
^ Our SH OM specifically mentions use of it for recovering a bogged vehicle from mud or snow.

It is a very fine pitch thread on a very thick bolt.
 
I agree, 8t snatch strap is way too high, won't have enough stretch in it. I and a few others have the Ridge Ryder (Aussie brand) which is 5t. I've used it a few times & it has a nice amount of stretch for our little Subies :biggrin:

Do NOT rely on the tow hook too much. Despite what it may say in a handbook, it is not designed for serious recoveries nor is the chassis it attaches too. Remember, the handbook also says you can do up to 150kmh or whatever in low range, a totally ridiculous thing to do :rolleyes::huh::eek:
 
While the US manual avoids the term "recovery" it does specify that:

"The towing hooks should be used only in an emergency (e.g., to free a stuck vehicle from mud, sand or snow)," 2013 manual, 9-14 "In Case of Emergency."

They also specify to never keep the "towing hook" in as it might interfere with proper airbag operation.

There is absolutely no reason to consider the vehicle tie-down points on a car so equipped.

The only question is whether a hitch with proper D-shackle could be the better way in the back (as hitch attaches to four points in sub-frame). There are attachments sold for this purpose.
 
As for the recovery strap braking strength that is best suited to a Subie, it seems to be a tough question.

On the one hand, the recommendation is 2-3 times GVW.

On the other hand, the lowest braking strength I can find is over 14,000 lb, 17,600 minimum on ARB, with most generic or brand names at 20,000 and up.

So, my OB has a GVW of 4,700 lb
a 2dr Rubicon of 4,900 lb
a 4 dr Rubicon of 5,400 lb

Therefore, both I and the legions of 2dr Wrangler owners, most of whom probably have lighter, or at least not heavier vehicles than mine, should be looking for a strap of under 15,000 lb.

But if these are such a rarity in the US, it stands to reason that people are going for straps in the 4-5 GVW range rather than 2-3.

This is the closest I got to what I am supposed to need, at 14,000 lb:

https://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/product/recovery-strap-14K-2x30/Towing

This is a well-respected brand at 14,400:

https://www.4wheelparts.com/Winches...p.aspx?t_c=18&t_s=190&t_pt=5083&t_pn=WAR88922

This is the lowest rated ARB strap, at 17,500 lb:

[ame="https://www.amazon.com/ARB-ARB705US-2-3-Recovery-Strap/dp/B004P9DQLC/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1429060193&sr=1-1&keywords=recovery+strap+ARB"]Amazon.com: ARB ARB705US 2-3/8" x 30' Recovery Strap - 17500 lbs Capacity: Automotive[/ame]

The rope producers actually claim that the proper ratio is closer to 5:1 at least for their products:

https://www.asroffroad.com/3-4-kinetic-recovery-rope/

I do not want to engage in absurd discussions like those on Expedition Portal (strap vs. rope).

Nevertheless, in between a 2x30 quality strap (20% stretch if ARB) for 60 and a 2x20 (30% stretch) quality rope for 80, which one would you get? Or just get the 14,400 lb WARN, which is about 60 before shipping (but then one needs to inquire about its actual stretch, ARB is half way between a generic strap and a rope)?

EDIT: actually the difference in ratings seems to make sense, as rope operation could result in higher forces being at work. There must be a reason why ropes jump from the ATV load rating to 19,000 and go up from there.
 
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MiddleAgeSubie said:
The only question is whether a hitch with proper D-shackle could be the better way in the back (as hitch attaches to four points in sub-frame). There are attachments sold for this purpose.
Click to expand...
You should only ever use a "rated" Bow shackle not a D-shackle. a bow shackle is designed to take loads off centre, which can happen with a recovery. It should be rated to a minimum of 3.25 Tonne Working Load Limit (WLL).
The rear recovery hitch is invaluable for recovery i.e. you being recovered rearwards or you pulling another vehicle. However you still will have situations where you will need to be recovered going forwards.
For example I got struck on a steep rocky climb 2 weeks ago and had to be snatched up the hill. So I was snatched going forwards.

Here are a couple of links for lighter snatch straps in Oz.

https://www.dnaoffroad.com.au/recovery/snatch-strap/50mm-7-5m-budget-snatch-strap.html

https://www.raysoutdoors.com.au/onl...x?pid=215587&menuFrom=1022074#Recommendations

I have both of these and a distribution strap for the two tie down points.

This is the rear recovery hitch I have

https://www.raysoutdoors.com.au/onl...x?pid=215597&menuFrom=1022074#Recommendations

you can only fit a 4.75T bow shackle to the rear hitches.

Trust this helps
 
Just a different way of referring to the same thing; here they are just called shackles, but are often also called D-rings or clevises. What you have is what I mean.

Look at this wording, LOL: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Hitch-Cl...ver-/331306106361?hash=item4d2361fdf9&vxp=mtr

I like the 5t strap you have. Here the minimum seems to be 7t though I really like the ARB one, which is 8.75.

EDIT: combined three short posts in one.
 
Platzer said:
All, you would want a recovery strap that was rated to break (BS) before the D-ring shackle and before the tow bolt and or tow bolt port broke? That way if BS was reached, you would only have a strap snapping around instead of a strap flinging the D-ring through the air. This makes sense, right? So why doesn’t Subaru rate the tow bolt or tow bot port’s WLL or BS?

I’ve bought a recovery strap with an 8165kg (18,000lbs or 9tons) BS, and am trying to find a D-ring bolt that will give me this strength (with a bit of safety margin), but am having difficulties. Most D-rings I can find state “weight rating” I assume this is a WLL…. Sound right? Seems 4.75tons (9500lbs or 4309kg) is a typical high rating for D-rings, which translates to an estimated BS of 8618kg (19000lbs). So I think I will return the strap and get a weaker one. Maybe with a BS of 15000lbs (6804kg). Thoughts?
Click to expand...

Good question:

This is the only one I see listed with two ratings:
[ame="https://www.amazon.com/VanBeest-inch-D-RING-SHACKLES-Green/dp/B00BPWSFPO/ref=pd_sim_auto_75?ie=UTF8&refRID=02FPANQJJPSJ3G0R04VC"]Amazon.com: VanBeest 3/4 inch D-RING SHACKLES - Green Pin (PAIR): Automotive[/ame]

note that it is rated "9,500 lb Working Load Limit. 47,500 lb Ultimate Strength"

And then there is this, probably the ultimate shackle, but pricey:

[ame="https://www.amazon.com/GATORJAW-SFT-SHACKLE-7-16/dp/B00PEVGXRO/ref=sr_1_84?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1429165698&sr=1-84&keywords=SHACKLES"]Amazon.com: GATORJAW SFT SHACKLE 7/16: Automotive[/ame]

Seems far better to me than any metal ones.
 
So, has anyone actually used an exhaust air jack?

I got one and tried to test it at home only to find it way too large and cumbersome. There are only a couple of places were it seems to be properly positioned. In brief: totally awkward.

I think I will be shipping this back asap. I will probably get a HiLift with the wheel lift attachment for recovery. Looks like a far more useful tool for a tire change, if need be, and it can be used for minor winching as well.

Indeed, I liked the HiLift better anyway, but did not want to deal with its weight and size.

I know the theoretical advantages of the air jack, but it seemed way too awkward in practice.

Any thoughts? Experiences?
 
MiddleAgeSubie said:
So, has anyone actually used an exhaust air jack?
Click to expand...

Yes.

I know the theoretical advantages of the air jack, but it seemed way too awkward in practice.

Any thoughts? Experiences?
Click to expand...

Fantastically stable. Easy to fit between ground and car/trailer, even if bottomed out. Light weight.

High lift jacks are just downright dangerous, even when used by an experienced person. BTW, I first used a high lift jack over 50 years ago ...
 
We've always used a high-lift jack, are very multipurpose, but as mentioned above, are amazingly dangerous. When flipping the little catch on it, you feel as if the whole thing is going to drop on you.And when you jack it up pretty high, the contact patch is very low and causes it to be unstable. The are very difficult to use on steep ground or muddy ground.
But apart from that, they are extremely versatile and strong,
but the exhaust jacks do that too, and are a lot safer/easier to use.
 
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