Sumo 2 in lift

I just received mine today, paint is also chipped. I was wondering whether I would need to paint the chips to keep out rust?

img3609m.jpg
 
Sorry guys

It says I'm subscribing to this thread but I haven't been received any notifications. I I apologize for for the powder coating and can assure you we will be changing packaging procedures. I received an email directing me back to this post. This is why I only wanted to offer them in stainless steel. No finish to really worry about. As soon as all the mild steel is used up I'm going back to stainless only. It costs more but the quality is so worth it. I have been trying to concentrate on production to get caught up. I me let me know how they fit once you get them on. I'll see what I can do for your troubles.
 
Luckily I think all my studs are straight. I'll give them a quick spray just to rust proof the scratches though. Hopefully can get them fitted by next week.
 
My set of blocks had one or two tiny chips as well, nothing major esp when going to be out of sight, otherwise i was pretty impressed with them all together, look awsome when installed with some A/T's and all, don't think the chip will hurt anything whatsoever for many many years to come if at all
 
Yeh it should still do the job well enough, has been a bit of a trial getting it to this stage though.

Just dropped it off today to get the kit fitted, would have done it myself but had a shoulder reco last week just before the kit arrived. Should be done by tomorrow, then a set of geolander at-s' all round on the new black rims next friday.
 
Needed camber bolts in the rear and apparently the rear sway bar links needed to be changed due to the angle. Not impressed.
 
I would've given them a quick touch up spray too Hunter, just to be on the safe side :iconwink:

Regards
Mr Turbo
 
Hey guys,

Just bought my own set last week, hopefully they shouldn't be too long, but just a query, but if you are going off road wouldn't the rear sway bar hinder the foresters off-road performance?

Cheers
Damo
 
G'day LocalFart & :welcome: to ORS.
Yes, having the sway bars connected whilst offroading does hinder your performance. What a lot of us do is to disconnect them once we hit the dirt.

Regards
Mr Turbo
 
Is anyone else having to use alignment bolts? I checked again and don't see why. If you would post the alignment sheets before and after. I want to see how much they are off so I can make adjustments in the design.

Thanks
 
I'll see if they are saved in the alignment computer at work tomarrow, but was talking somewhere in the 2.3 degree positive out untill i put in the camber bolts and came right outside the spec at about .6 positive which on customers car's i would tell them it is right outside but wouldn't worry about it as long as you rotate regularly and it doesn't pull

did have a question though on the rear installs SUMO, the directions said something about put them in on the side it angles backwards or something, i thought about it and basically was wondering which side went on which in the rear hah to make sure i put them in right to begin with
 
Your Forry looks great Hunter, now that it's had the lift installed :)

How do you find the ride now, much difference ?

Regards
Mr Turbo
 
Cheers Mr Turbo.

Haven't had a chance to drive it as I'm still in a sling for another 5 weeks. Powder coated rims and ATs should be on by the end of the week.

For Joe:
img3663zb.jpg

with camber bolts in
 
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Unless I'm missing something those previous camber numbers look pretty close to the final figures. For the whole 0.14* of camber change I wouldn't have bothered with camber bolts in the rear.
 
The camber bolts were already in. They found after putting the normal bolts in on one side it was way too far out.
 
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